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Creating a streetluge can be very simple or it can be very hard, depending on the type of board you wish to ride.  Now before I go on, I would highly reccomend that you get a copy of The Streetluge Survival Guide, by Darren Lott.  Also note that I, Frank Williams, assume no responsibility for any luge related injuries of others.  So that means, if you crash and hurt yourself, it's your own fault.

By far one of the easiest luges to create is a flat board, illustraited in The Streetluge Survival Guide, also known as the "carpet board".  It is very a simple, but very good luge design.  I won't go into it, because it's in the book.  Which you have, right? If you don't have The Streetluge Survival Guide then I would suggest you buy it.  Just click on the picture of the book to buy it right now.  It is reknowned as the "Bible" of streetluge.  It will be the best $15 you ever spend in this sport, and it has invaluable information.

Street Luge Survival Guide Click here or pic to buy this book now.

The luge design that I ride is fairly simple, but performs extremely well, espesially on fast, twisty runs.  I have ridden this simple luge to 60 mph, and it has survived a high speed impact with a boulder (unlike my ankle, see - crashes).  Built with quality wood, this luge will surivive for years.  However, if constructed carelessly, and with cheap wood, don't expect the skin on your ass to stay there for long. To build this ride you need: -a nice, hardwood 2 x 4 (I use cherry wood) -7 layer ply wood -aluminum angle -skateboard trucks (at a minimum Indipendant 215's) -bearings (ABEC 3 or higher) -wheels (Kryptonic reds and Cherry Bombs work nice) -proper size truck mounting hardware -3/8th inch diameter carraige bolts, nuts, washers and locking washers First start by cutting a piece of 2 x 4 the length of your inseam, this will be your front boom.  Use a section about 1 foot or longer for the rear boom.  Next, measure the length from the middle of your neck to your inseam, and add 8 inches to that.  Cut a pieceof plywood to that length, and cut it about as wide as your shoulders.  If you want the luge to feel more stable, cut it wider.  Mine is 16 inches wide, but you might want it closer to 14.  You can use what ever pan design that turns you on.  I chose the taper in the rear because it allows me more shoulder movement.  I cut the front of the pan the way I did cause it looks pretty (you got a problem with that?).  Use the 4 inch overlap in the front and back of the pan to bolt on the booms like in the picture.  Then use self

tapping wood bolts to attach the angle to the front for the foot pegs.  After that, attach the front truck to the front boom, the location should pretty much be under your knees.  Attach the rear boom behind your head.  Then put on the bearings and wheels, and you should be set to go.  I also put on a head rest made from foam, and a cheap speedometer, both of which are optional.  Also a good idea is to drop the pan a little using some wood sheet between the booms and the pan, I have about a half inch drop. When your all finished with your luge, don't go out riding until you have the proper protection.  This means leathers, a full-faced helmet, gloves and shoes. Remember, always fly low, fly fast, and fly safe.