Peter Blaise Monahon
APC American Personal Computing
2776 South Arlington Mill Drive #277
Arlington/Shirlington, Virginia (VA) 22206 US
703-845-1556
peterblaise@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/americanpersonalcomputing
(personal homepage: http://www.peterblaise.com)
This page updated: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:58 PM
"DRIVERS": Liberally edited, thank you, from IBM's web sites.
What do "drivers" do and why may I need to upgrade them? If you have been around computers for any length of time you have probably been told at one point or another that you need to update your 'drivers', also called "device drivers". Let's explore what drivers are, why it is important to update drivers, when to update drivers, where to get them, and how to install them.
Drivers - The what? Drivers are software programs that contain sets of instructions for your Windows computer OS Operating System software. Drivers tell Windows how best to operate or 'drive' a certain piece of hardware installed in or connected to your computer. Each piece of hardware in or attached to your computer system needs its own specific driver. Your computer's audio, video, and modem are some of the hardware components that require drivers. If you just add the hardware component to your computer, the Windows software operating system will not know what to do with the new hardware. However, when you also install or upgrade the software driver, the Windows software operating system knows exactly what the new hardware is and, more importantly, Windows understands how to use the new hardware.
Drivers - The why? Now that we know that drivers are little programs it is also important to note that they, like any other file on your system, are susceptible to corruption, may be written poorly, may be incompatible with other hardware and or software, and may not perform properly. If your modem driver does not perform - your modem does not work. It may be time to refresh or update your drivers. The other instance when it is necessary to update your driver is when new additions are made to it by the original designers and programmers. Since manufacturers cannot make their components compatible with every new component that comes on the market in the future, they often create newer drivers, adding the instructions to make the newer drivers more adaptable. Your video driver is a good example: as new technologies develop in 3D drawings, for example, it may be necessary to upgrade your video driver to enable it to 'understand' those new technologies.
Drivers - The when? So, if each new driver is better than the old one, should not I always have the latest and greatest driver? This kind of reasoning is great, but not always necessary. Remember, every time you add, delete, or change your system files, additional incompatibilities and corruption may occur. If your system is running fine and you are not having any problems, you may not need to update your drivers. Also, remember that all drivers are tested on what the manufacturer's call "clean machines", which means that they were designed and testes on newly setup computers. These 'new' drivers have not been tested with any of the programs or hardware that you may have added to your computer system. When you notice poor performance from a component it is probably time to upgrade your drivers. If your audio is not working (after checking all volume controls) then maybe it is a driver issue; if that new game you purchased looks fuzzy, then maybe it is a video driver issue.
Drivers - The where and the how? Ok, now that you are a little more comfortable with drivers you may ask, 'Where can I get them?' ... read on!
DEVICE DRIVERS, DRIVERS, SOFTWARE AND FIRMWARE UPDATES:
BIOS: Need the latest code to make your PC match your operating system or to resolve strange behavior? Update your computer's system BIOS Basic Input Output System by going to
(a) the manufacturer's web page and download and install their updates. Basically, go to the manufacturer's name dot com and click on support and file downloads. Have your computer system model number and serial number ready, and look for their matching pages. Of course call me for experienced knowledge on what to do with ambiguous offerings. Anyway, you can check out what's available at web sites such as:
Gateway and http://www.Gateway.com or specifically http://www.Gateway.com/support/index.shtml and they have a neat utility at http://www.Gateway.com/support/product/drivers/software/gwupdate.shtml which checks and helps download Gateway product software, and go to http://www.Gateway.com/support/product/drivers/index.shtml for other drivers, such as BIOS upgrades, select your specific product and follow from there.
Dell at http://www.Dell.com or specifically http://support.Dell.com/us/en/filelib - Dell can identify everything for your computer from your serial number, they will build a "home page" for your specific PC and you can select driver updates and follow from there.
IBM at http://www.IBM.com or specifically http://www-1.IBM.com/support/ddrivers.html and select your computer type and follow from there.
Micron at http://www.Micronpc.com or specifically http://support.Micronpc.com/Apps/filesearch.asp and select the part of your PC you want to upgrade and follow from there.
Compaq at http://www.Compaq.com or specifically http://www.Compaq.com/support/files/index.shtml and select your product and follow from there.
Find other manufacturers with the same pattern: Apple at http://www.Apple.com, Acer at http://www.Acer.com, Packard Bell at http://www.PackardBell.com, Sony at http://www.Sony.com, HP Hewlett Packard at http://www.HP.com, and so on, and follow the leads for "support" and "drivers" and "downloads".
And/or:
(b) Especially if you have a "clone" no-name computer, going to Unicore Software (esolutions) at http://www.Unicore.com/BIOSupgrades/upgradenow.cfm and downloading their free BIOS Wizard checker from http://www.Unicore.com/BIOSWiz/BWz.exe then running it and reading the "sign on BIOS string" information and then ordering and installing their official update (chips or software) for Award BIOS, AMI American Megetrends BIOS, Phoenix BIOS or Mr. BIOS, OR using their free BIOS Wizard software to make you smarter about your exact Gateway, Dell, and so on, and then going back to the original manufacturer's home page (above) to get the accurate upgrades you need.
OTHER: UFOs - Unidentified Failing Objects ... for other modems, video cards, and whatever you thought you had in your computer system, you can try searching for specific or generic 'drivers' using ANY words you know about your failing component. Did you ever see something about the modem being a "Lucent LT Win Modem"? Well then, type "Lucent LT Win Modem" into any internet search engine such as http://www.google.com and see where it leads you. Somewhere within the first 10 responses from the search engine you might find an web page offering an appropriate driver for you to download and install on your computer. Also go to any of the Tech Republic sponsored sites, such as http://www.drivershq.com/indexdd.html and download their Driver Detective program, and run it to help you identify and update what's already installed or misinstalled on your computer system. Or go to and join Tech Republic's http://www.driverguide.com for yet another avenue of exploration - specific driver searches, technical newsletters, and more.
SOFTWARE: (a) Within many software you can pull down a command from the top menu, such as from the [Help] menu and click on an offering such as [Software Updates], and so long as you are connected to the internet, you should be connected to the manufacturer's web sire and offered updates. Many Microsoft, Norton Symantec, Netscape and other products have these instant update features.
(b) For software that doesn't have a self-update option, here's a painful but complete way to take an inventory of the software on your PC and compare what you have to what the manufacturer has. http://www.CNet.com offers a mini program that finds what's on your PC then lets you select what items you may want to upgrade, then check if an upgrade is available (it offered me a daunting list of 811 programs from my computer, now all I have to do is select which ones I want to look for an upgrade for, then w-a-i-t for CNet:
"UTILITIES":
I have uploaded some useful utility files to http://briefcase.yahoo.com/peterblaise
under [WinUtil] for you to download and install and use, and I also recommend
trying the PC system profiler available grom http://www.belarc.com.
WHIMDOWS CONFIGURATION AND STARTUP FILES:
Here
are a few pointers for tuning some Windows startup files. DO NOT TYPE THE
( ) PARENTHETICAL COMMENTS OR ITALICS WHEN MAKING CHANGES TO YOUR OWN
FILES!!! And, I always keep my old lines by typing "rem" at the
beginning of a line to "remark" them out, or by adding ;; (double
semicolons) to the beginning of an unwanted line in *.sys and *.ini files,
and :: (double colons) to the beginning of unwanted lines in *.bat batch files.
Why ;; semicolons in some files and :: colons in other files? Hey, it's all
Microsoft ... and if one division of Microsoft doesn't talk to another division,
or if each division doesn't use the same rules ... well, if you write lousy
software, then I guess you need to monopolize your competition in order to,
er, compete! No surprise here! Anyway, with double ;; semicolons or :: colons
at the beginning of a line, the operating system ignores the contents line
completely, not even reading it. The operating system reads entire lines marked
with "rem", single ; semicolon or : colon leaders, and then
it ignores them - unnecessary microseconds wasted, eh?
MSDOS.SYS
Here are a few of my c:\msdos.sys file suggestions:
[Options]
DisableLog=1
BootDelay=8
BootMenuDelay=8
BootGUI=1
BootMenu=1
BootWarn=0
Logo=0
Network=1
AutoScan=2
BootMenuDefault=1
BootMulti=0
CONFIG.SYS
Here are a few of my c:\config.sys file suggestions:
Device=C:\Windows\HiMem.Sys /TestMem:Off /V /M:1 (suggested by Norton AntiVirus)
Device=C:\Windows\EMM386.Exe NoEMS Verbose (EMM386 is not needed, really)
Files=200 (network or...)
Files=120 (stand alone computer)
DOS=UMB
LastDrive=Z
DOS=High
Buffers=80 (network or...)
Buffers=48 (standalone)
Stacks=12,256
DeviceHigh C:\Windows\SetVer.Exe (convenience for users of older program)
Shell=C:\Command.Com C:\ /E:1024 /P (again, for older programs, ones that need a big DOS environment)
AccDate=c- d- e- f- g- h- i- j- k- l- m- n- o- p- q- r- s- t- u- v- w- x -y- z- (turns off Windows tracking of file access history, saving time)
AUTOEXEC.BAT
A few of my c:\autoexec.bat file suggestions:
@C:
@Echo off
Path=C:\Windows;C:\Windows\Command;C:\WinUtil;C:\;C:\QEMM;C:\Norton;C:\Utility;C:\PCTools;
Set DOS16M=2 (suggested by Norton AntiVirus)
Prompt $P$G
Set Temp=C:\Windows\Temp
Set Tmp=C:\Windows\Temp (just in case)
:: rem (today.bat is a BASIC language file that creates a system variable for today's day of month)
GWBASIC C:\Utility\Today
Call C:\Utility\Today
MD C:\Windows\BU
MD C:\Windows\Temp
SetVer
c:\NORTON\NORTON~3\NAVDX.EXE /Startup (sample of Norton AntiVirus)
c:\windows\COMMAND\FDisk /Status
LH C:\Windows\Command\DosKey (only if you work in DOS often, as I do)
C:\Utility\CapsLock (turns the Caps Lock key into the original typewriter-style toggle key)
NumLkOff (turns off the Number Lock so the arrow keys behave like arrows)
Call \ZipWinBu (my own utility to create and backup Windows startup files by day of month in zip format)
:: rem reset the path since install programs may have changed it!
Path=C:\WINDOWS;C:\WINDOWS\COMMAND;C:\Windows\System;C:\;C:\QEMM;C:\Norton;C:\Utility;C:\PCTools;C:\WinUtil ::
::
::
REM
REM
REM
WIN.INI
In c:\windows\win.ini - you can keep unidentified programs from auto-loading by making sure you have these two lines under the [Windows] section:
[Windows]
load=
run=
SYSTEM.INI
In c:\windows\system.ini - I (1) make sure that no 16-bit drivers are loaded, (2) turn off power management for desktop computers (more reliable that way) although portables need power management for longest battery life, and (3) I add and control system memory cache to be locked rather than rising and falling dynamic memory cache - systems seem to sit more stable if memory cache doesn't constantly change size.
[boot]
drivers=mmsystem.dll (remove power management from this line)
SCRNSAVE.EXE=(NONE) (come on, play games elsewhere - do you really want your computer fast and reliable?)
[386Enh]
device=*vshare
;; device=VSHARE.386 (that's an example - remove any DEVICE= that uses a non-asterisked driver - non-asterisked drivers are SLOW 16-bit drives!! Note: You may have to run [Install New Hardware] from the [Control Panel] after your next reboot to allow Windows to install 32-bit drivers)
mouse=*vmouse
;;mouse=*vmouse,msmouse.vxd (yep, caught another 16-bit driver!)
PagingDrive=C:
MinPagingFileSize=655360
MaxPagingFileSize=655360
(make the Windows memory cache file locked to one size that is 250% of your computer's RAM Random Access Memory chips. Here, my 256MB system needs 256x2.5=640mb of cache, which in base 2 on-off computer logic is actually 655,360 bytes)
installed21=buffer958646707,request21,transfer148028600
LocalLoadHigh=1
PageBuffers=32
COMBoostTime=1
(hey, if I could explain those lines in a word or two, I'd be selling this advice, not giving it away free!!)
[vcache]
MaxFileCache=65536
MinFileCache=65536
(again, Windows has a cache file, only this should be 25% of system memory)
chunksize=512
MSCONFIG
Then, in Windows 98 (or if I copy the files from Windows 98 to a Windows 95 PC) I select
[Start]
[Run]
type [msconfig]
hit [Enter]
and then when it loads on screen I click on the [Startup] tab and then deselect anything that I don't really want and reboot, especially removing reminders from Hewlett Packard, Microsoft and Intuit/Quicken and other programs I don't want or use. Look for virus lines such as those including "wininit.exe" and such. Call me at 703-845-1556 or email me at peterblaise@yahoo.com or browse the many (deep) web pages at Norton Symantec at http://www.sarc.com for antivirus assistance.
'CLONE' VERSUS 'COMPATIBLE' COMPUTERS - EASY AS 1 - 2 - 3 !
Not enough sales people have an expansive personal history with computer ownership or professional training in the meaning of "all those choices!" Many clerks have been in the computer business only a few weeks. Few have owned, serviced and upgraded their own computers over several years. Here are some important points to help you zero in on what will best take care of your personal needs . . .
A 'COMPATIBLE' COMPUTER?
'Compatible' computers only have to run Microsoft or Apple operating systems and software, and let you add some standard accessories. However, in a compatible' computer, many parts are custom. Custom means 'available only from the original supplier'. IBM, Compaq, Hewlett Packard, Apple, Dell, NEC, Packard Bell, Acer, and many, many others who make or specify their own internal parts. 'Special' also means that you must pay their price and buy from them during their hours, often only 9 to 5, Monday through Friday - no sales overnight or on weekends, the times most of us have free time to work on our computers.
A TRUE CLONE COMPUTER:
A true clone computer uses a CABINET that is bolt-for-bolt compatible with the original IBM-AT. Okay, the IBM-XT has been out of production for years. Mini-power supplies with on/off power switch cables have become standard since the IBM-AT ceased production. Also, mini- and full- tower computers have superseded the IBM-AT desktop design. So, what's a true clone? What's a 'compatible', if there is a difference? A true 'clone' lets you do three important things:
1 - A TRUE CLONE XT-STYLE OR ATX MOTHERBOARD
A true clone computer cabinet lets you exchange the main system/memory/bus board with a standard, after market system/memory/bus board. Most suppliers call this the 'mother board'. The 'old fashioned' standard, called AT, or baby-AT, is really XT size, being 8.5 " x 11 " with up to 8 card option slots for ISA cards (industry standard architecture in XT-8 bit or AT-16 bit length) EISA cards (enhanced . . . not used much), VLB cards (VESA logic bus, a 32 bit extension for video and hard drives), and/or PCI cards (personal computer interface, a shorter slot than the other 32 bit designs). Intel eventually pushed a new design on the market called the ATX which is wider than the AT-style (again, actually, the XT-style). The ATX-style allows more space for them to include video, sound and network chips and input/output sockets directly on their motherboard/main-system board and at the back of the computer cabinet.
2 - A TRUE CLONE POWER SUPPLY
A true clone computer cabinet lets you exchange the power supply with a standard, after market power supply. The old IBM PC and XT had what I call medium size boxes with the computer's on/off big black-and-red switch mounted right on the box. The IBM AT had a large box with the black and red switch also mounted right on the box. Later non-IBM computers settled on a mini-box power supply with the computer's on/off switch at the end of a cable that winds it's way to the front of your computer's cabinet somewhere. All IBM-brand computers and many other name-brand computers use custom power supplies, and you must buy service/repair replacements from them (expensive and may not be available on demand). Most non-IBM name-brand makers use an all purpose, now standard mini-power supply or ATX-style power supply. Gateway2000 has removed the accessory AC socket that used to allow you to plug your display screen power cord into the back of your computer - so now, you must find a wall socket to plug your screen in!
3 - TRUE CLONE DRIVES
A true clone cabinet lets you swap, add and upgrade the drives - floppy drive, hard drive, tape drive, CD-ROM drive, and so on. Many floppy drives, hard drives, and some tape drives are only 4 " wide by 1 " tall, and now-standard true clone cabinets often have two or more mounting bays with easy to get to brackets that hold this size drive. Otherwise, you first need also to install 5 1/4 " mounting brackets onto the drive itself, then install the drive in a 5 1/4 " bracket within your computer. The laptop/portable market drove the demand for physically smaller drives.
True clone cabinets have a few 5 1/4 " mounting bays with easy to get to brackets. The most common drive size was 5 3/4 " wide by 1 5/8 " tall, called half-height, and is common for 5 1/4 " diskette drives and CD-ROMs, and even a few hard drive manufacturers are making drives this big again. Old-fashioned drives were 'full height', being 5 3/4 " wide and 3 3/8 " tall (approximately 2 x the 1 5/8 " half height), and some hard drives are still this size. Most true clone cabinets allow you to mount one full-height drive in the same space as two half height drives.
So, the ideal true clone cabinet would allow you easy access to install, service and swap up to 8 card options, and perhaps 4 to 8 drives, and to change the power supply with a standard replacement available from any over-the-counter or mail-order dealer. Most Gateway2000 computers had this, though many models, such as their 'new look' custom cabinet uses custom floppy and CD-ROM drives. Micron computers appear to build an ATX-clone cabinet only on their " full tower " models, though all their cabinets seem to contain an ATX mother board. Quantex and many other assemblers use true AT- or ATX-clone cabinets, drives and internal parts. I recommend the full tower size cabinet since they are easier for you to work on and work in, and they can sit on the floor, freeing your desk space.
BEWARE OF 'SOFT-' HARDWARE
... from Boca, Hewlett Packard, US Robotics, and others
Most
'hardware' manufacturers are saving money by NOT including some program chips
inside their hardware - modems and printers especially. Instead, they provide
you with a diskette that contains Windows software that gives their bare-bones
modem or printer hardware a personality only when Windows is running. On the one hand, it's cheaper for them to supply and update files on diskettes or over the Internet should their software prove eventually unreliable, cheaper for them than it would be for them to manufacture and replace the traditional 'personality' chips inside most printers and modems.
On the other hand, unless Windows is running perfectly, you also suddenly don't have a working printer or a working modem! If you must emergency-reboot to DOS or if you move your printer or modem to another computer, they won't work! You have to have Windows working perfectly and have an appropriate and successfully installed Windows software diskette to make them work.
U.S.Robotics calls their modems the WinModem. Hewlett Packard calls their printer the DeskJet for Windows. I've also seen a Boca software modem sold by Computer Discount Warehouse (CDW).
The only hint for you, the buyer, may be the word 'win' somewhere in the title. Sadly, salespeople and technical people at most stores and phone-order companies like Gateway, Micron, CDW, don't know what this all means since they don't really use and service and upgrade personal computer equipment like end users have to over their years of ownership. If you ask for a 'hardware modem' or a 'hardware printer', they'll just respond, '"Huh?" After accusing you of not knowing what you're talking about, and claiming that all their stuff works in Windows, and claiming that no one else complains about their modems and printers, you are on your own as the customer with all the money to get the best items when you buy or upgrade your PC.
'Software' printers and modems aren't bad. They're just different from 'hardware' printers and modems. They should cost you as much as 40% less since they offer you fewer features and benefits, and you just have to be prepared that they don't work unless Windows is running perfectly and you have an appropriate software diskette that installs and works without errors. Instead, I recommend hardware-only hardware. Good luck!
GET YOUR NETWORK CABLES AT 1/2 PRICE FOR MATERIALS
When
wiring networks and other PC equipment, you have choices. Most cable installers
use expensive, stiff Teflon cable inside your walls and ceilings between your
wall socket connector plates, then you use flexible extension cables only between
your wall socket connectors and your PC equipment. This is easy for the installer,
but, compared to direct connect cables, this more than doubles the cost of cables
and the number of connections, increasing the risk of network communications
failure.If you use network wall sockets with network extension cables, inspectors think that someone in the future might connect your in-wall cables to 120 Volts AC by accident, and thereby cause melted cables, risking fire. Standards therefore often call for expensive, fireproof Teflon™ cables.
If you have your cable installer (me?) run your cable full length (sometimes called 'home runs') directly to the back of your PC equipment, then you can use less expensive, more flexible non-Teflon™ cable for the entire 'run', and save as much as half price on the cable and connectors, and reduce the chance of network communication failures due to noisy or insecure connections.
The following information includes quotes from the 1990 NEC National Electrical Code used by all building inspectors. Copy it and print it on stickers and place the stickers at the wall plates where your 'low voltage' cable comes through the wall. This should help any inspectors to understand that your direct-connect low voltage cable meets code and does not have to be stiff, expensive Teflon™.
Label your non-Teflon™ cable with a copy of this sticker:
This vinyl cable is intended for direct connection to low voltage equipment only, such as serial, parallel, network and modem connections on IBM-style and Apple-style personal computers, according to 1990 NEC National Electrical Code, Articles 300.22b,c and 400.7a: "...plenums used for environmental air...space over a hung ceiling...wiring material suitable for ambient temperature...flexible cords and cables for...appliances...specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance and repair and the appliance is intended or identified for flexible connection...data processing cables."
SCREEN ALIGNMENT AND ADJUSTMENT:
Right click on the following images and save them as your wallpaper, then minimize all windows and check your screen alignment and other controls.
