Jackets issued through the Richmond, Va., Depot have
been selected as standard in the battalion. Uniform makers listed at the
end of this piece offer examples of these jackets. The following descriptions
of existing Richmond Depot jackets is taken from Leslie D. Jensen, "A
Survey of Confederate Central Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Part
I," Military Collector & Historian, Fall, 1989. Type I:
"It is believed that the first pattern jacket...was a jacket with a
six piece body and two piece sleeves, with a nine button front, shoulder
straps and probably belt loops. There were generally no buttons on the cuff.
The lining was probably a cotton osnaburg. The distinctive point about the
first pattern jacket, and the feature that distinguished it from the Type
II, was that it was trimmed on the collar, shoulder straps and cuffs with
either tape or piping." There are no known examples of this jacket
which was issued through 1862. Type II: "is characterized by a nine-button
front, no buttons on the cuffs, top-stitched edges, shoulder straps, belt
loops on each hip, an unbleached cotton osnaburg lining and interior pockets.
It has a six-piece body and two piece sleeves. Generally, it has no trim,
although examples with partial trim do exist." Of the seven surviving
examples, materials used include: "a rough wool/cotton combination
material," "a rough, dark greenish gray woolen material,"
"heavy wool kersey," "heavy cadet gray kersey," "rough
gray tabby weave wool," and "a thin cadet gray wool with an unusual
weave." This jacket with issued from 1862 through 1864. Type III: "is
identical to the Type II except that it lacks shoulder straps and belt loops."
The 14 surviving examples were made "of cadet gray wool kersey."
They date from late 1864 through the war's end. The sutlers listed at the
end of this page make excellent replicas of all three types. The Type II
is the type generally in use within the battalion.
When shopping for trousers, try a pair on before buying.
Note that they should ride high, reaching just under the rib cage, instead
of low as modern trousers. Moreover they should have a high back; Union
issue trousers were cut some three inches higher in the back than the front.
There is only one known example of the common sutler's
cadet gray wool 'Confederate' great coat, once owned by a North Carolina
dealer, Will Georges, and now in a private collection. Most originals were
either 1. home-made in various colors and materials, 2. British made in
a medium blue wool, or 3. Southern depot made, mostly of jeans cloth or
dark gray kersey. Many known examples have lay-down collars rather than
the US style standing collar. Federal issue greatcoats were not uncommon;
you might use that style. If you elect to use a plain gray wool version
of the U.S. Army overcoat, as commonly sold by sutlers, it can be turned
into an 1861 issue type with the use of U.S. Army general service buttons
or state buttons of a state known to have issued such overcoats, such as
New York.
Leather cap visors were originally coated with a heavy,
waterproofing that included dye, varnish and other chemicals. Painting several
layers of clear varnish on a plain dyed cap visor will make it look a great
deal more authentic. As well, clip the curved ends of chin straps; original
chin strap ends were cut at sharp angles and were not curved. Make sure
the lining is black or brown polished cotton, not white. Most originals
use either civilian brass buttons or state or US issue buttons rather than
Confederate buttons, which should be avoided. Finally, don't bend down your
cap brim sides like a 20th Century baseball cap; that's strictly a modern
style. Original cap brims were worn straight and flat, or, at most, only
slightly curved. (To read a more detailed account of how to improve a sutler's
cap, click here.)
Period individuals did not pinch the crowns of their
slouch hats in taking them off and putting them on. The modern cowboy hat
or fedora pinch on then should be avoided; start from the first day with
a slouch hat handling it by the brim to avoid the pinched crown effect.
Only John Wayne and sailors on the gun deck get away
with a bandanna around the neck.
Avoid chevrons sewn on wool backing, which was the US
style. Confederates, when they wore chevrons, applied the tape, usually
black and rarely branch of service color, directly to the sleeve.
The gray 'rag' socks sold by many sutlers are not period
style. Look for light-weight plain white socks with a short bit of ribbing
at the top.
Avoid colored shirts with plain white stand-up collars,
so common at sutlers. Replace plastic shirt buttons with bone or ceramic
buttons, found cheaply and easily at most large flea markets or antique
centers.
The Masons were a "secret order", who identified
themselves by key phrases used in meeting and secret handshakes. They didn't
wear metallic embroidered badges on their uniforms to tell the world of
their identity (although a small pin or ring would have been acceptable).
Don't you, either. Much the same for all the brass harp badges, and similar
things.
Avoid those red and yellow suspenders with elastic many
sutlers sell. Original suspenders were often fancily embroidered or plain
white working types, but nothing like these modern styles.
Most sutlers sell slings they say are for Enfields,
some even with British markings, which are not actually of the Enfield design,
but copies of the US Army issue style. Actual Enfield slings were tied with
a leather throng at the butt end and a simple slide on the other end. They
came only in black or buff leather [black being the most common]. Artifakes
and C&D Jarnigan (see below)
carry the correct style.
Original Enfield bayonet scabbard tips were pinned to
the scabbards, while many modern repros are not. The tips without can come
loose; always look for scabbards with pins around the tops of the tips.
Look at period photos and you'll see shiny bright weapons
even in field conditions. Don't let your musket and bayonet get rusty or
brown with age; keep it clean and bright outside and in at all times. Only
men who don't depend on their weapons allow them to become foul; a soldier
is known by his clean weapon. On the other hand, Enfield type rifled muskets
were issued with blued barrels, barrel-bands, and lock plates: only a handful
of mostly Union garrison units were forced to remove the bluing. Don't have
the bluing removed and if you get a "defarbed" Enfield, make sure
the bluing is either replaced with a more correct period style bluing or
left on the barrel.
The cartridge box was usually worn on the belt in the
square of the back for comfort when on the march, but brought up front on
the right hip for ease of entry when going into action.
If you carry a haversack, make sure it's reasonably stuffed.
A flat, empty bag seems odd looking to the observer. Also, never wear a
haversack under the waistbelt. Not only is it inconvenient to get into when
on the march, but it wears longer and, most importantly, that's the way
they did it then.
Cut out a small piece of leather to keep on top of your
musket cone, or nipple, held in place by the hammer when not in use. Use
the same leather piece when cleaning the musket by pouring water in the
barrel to prevent the water from running out. When not in use, it protects
the cone from hammer pressure as well as keeping stuff out of the barrel.
When buying a repro CS Richmond rifled musket make sure
the nose cap and butt plate are of actual brass. Some Italian repros use
brass plated parts instead of all brass, and this can scratch and wear away.
However, many Richmonds actually used iron butt plates and nosecaps as well.
Avoid belt plates marked CS or CSA. Originals were rare
in the ANV, and those that were issued were much cruder, of stamped copper,
than modern repros.
When looking at leather accoutrements (never called "leathers")
look at the stitching. Period Southern cartridge boxes were sewn around
eight stitches to the inch, while Union ones came around ten stitches to
the inch. Union cap boxes were sewn around a dozen stitches to the inch.
Make sure the leather accoutrements you get don't have many fewer stitches
per inch, as is so often the case with foreign-made accoutrements. Also,
if buying Union accoutrements avoid the type stamped with an oval and an
Ordnance Department sub-inspector's name in it; these stamps were not in
use until 1864.
Not an authenticity tip, but ask to make sure tin-wear
suppliers use lead-free solder to cut lead intake for safety. Wal-Mart sells
a home lead testing kit to check tin wear you already have.
Not all stonewear sold today uses mid 19th Century shapes
or decorative motifs. Avoid cows and windmills, for example. Check examples
in local museums and books before buying.
Original shelter halves had all hand-sewn button holes
and grommet holes. Brass grommet holes are incorrect. Originals were also
of thinner duck than modern repros.
Oil lamps were not commonly used and certainly would
have been quite rare in camp. Leave them back at Tara.
Blue and white or gray and white spackle wear pots, pans,
plates, and cups were not in use. Stick to plain tinned or wrought or cast
iron cooking equipage.
Those fancy can labels marked 'Gulf' or 'Distelfink'
are post-war in design.
On furniture look for obviously stainless steel or aluminum
fittings. Avoid having Phillips screws or replace them with regular screws
when you get the piece.
Period eyeglasses did not have over-the-ear curving
temples as do most replicated or antique glasses seen today. The 18th Century
versions offered by G. Gedney Godwin, Sutler of Mt. Misery, Box 100, Valley
Forge PA, (610) 783-0670, are likely the only decent period replicas we
have seen offered today.
Use cigars or pipes rather than cigarettes, which were
largely smoked by women, westerners, and staff officers in the First Corps
in 1864.
Lose the pony-tails. Even long hair wasn't that common
or that long. Earrings were also only worn by women; leave them in your
jewelry box. Use a pocket watch if you must know the time: no wristwatches.
For a detailed discussion of the quality of period unit drill, click here.
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