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VINEYARDS

The Muscadine Grape -

Georgia Grapes Graduate to More Varieties, Better Growth, Taste

by Roy Wyatt

    The muscadine has been off to college, and new and more versatile varieties keep popping up. This tasty fall grape, produced commercially in greater quantity now, is being sold in limited quantity in area supermarkets. Paulk Vineyard in South Georgia has about 350 acres of muscadines planted, and several smaller growers south of Atlanta bring their produce to market.

    All of this exposure tends to whet our appetites for more of these native Southern grapes. Though some of us have clambered up oak trees for muscadines, or had muscadine arbors in our back yards, our non-native neighbors probably have never heard of a muscadine, much less eaten one.

    Some muscadines are sweet and some are tangy, with a flavor that many believe surpasses that of bunch grapes.

    The natural, older muscadines include scuppernong, a favorite, and probably the oldest variety. It has been domesticated since colonial times, and has become so well known in recent times that many people mistake any light-skinned or bronze variety for a scuppernong.

    The Thomas, a medium-size purple-red muscadine, was identified in South Carolina about 1850. Not grown much commercially, it is still a good home variety for eating, or for making jelly and wine.

    In Georgia, the muscadine got its "college breeding" at the Georgia Experiment Station near Griffin. Work there produced varieties Hunt and Stuckey, among others, in 1919. Yuga and Dulcet came along in 1934.

    In recent times, the B.O. Fry, working at the Georgia Experiment Station, developed Higgins, a large pinkish-bronze grape, released in 1955, and Cowart, purplish-black with a wine-like tang, released in 1968.

    After Ronald Lane succeeded Mr. Fry, the state in 1971 released Fry, a large, sweet bronze variety, and Jumbo, a large black grape with firm pulp. Pride debut in 1972 and Summit in 1977.

    The Georgia station released Triumph, a large self-fertile bronze in 1980; Golden Isles, a good-quality bronze, in 1981; and Loomis in 1988.

    Martha Owen, operator of Owen's Nursery in Gay, GA, likes the large size and burgundy color of Loomis. This female variety rates highly on taste panels, she says. Her customers also like Triumph, Summit and Cowart. Nesbit, a black self-fertile variety from North Carolina, is also popular.

    Bill Ison, owner of Ison's Nursery in Brooks, GA, is enthusiastic about numerous varieties including several bred or begun by Mr. Fry at Ison's after his retirement.

    On a recent visit to his vineyard, I was told that a taste panel rated Black Beauty as No. 1, Supreme No. 2 and Sugargate No. 3. But his top-selling vines are Fry, Black Fry and Ison.

    Despite a dry summer, Mr. Ison's vines were in good growth and the muscadines were of good sized and quality. Irrigation makes a big difference.

    A single wire 4½ feet above ground supports the vine, and a second wire a foot above ground holds the plastic drip-irrigation pipes. One nozzle or emitter is located near and above each trunk, which is also used for liquid fertilizer.

    Does heavy pruning of vines in summer affect production? Apparently so, for those vines are producing more than identical varieties left unpruned.

    Bare-root vines can be planted in fall or winter, vines from containers can be planted any time. Self-fertile varieties pollinate themselves and others. A female variety needs a self-fertile variety within 50 feet.

    Plant in as much sun as possible, spacing vines 20 feet apart. Use treated posts and No. 9 galvanized wire to erect a one-wire trellis. Use 8-foot posts, set 3½ feet in the ground. Brace the end posts to carry the load and stretch the wire 4½ feet above ground.

    During the first two years, several applications of a complete fertilizer alternated with ammonium nitrate should be applied lightly until Aug. 1. By the third year, fruit production is desired, and a complete fertilizer is applied in March. A second application is given in May only if growth is poor, since over-fertilization can cause dropping of fruit.

This article originally appeared in the Atlanta Journal & Constitution September 30, 1990 in Roy Wyatt's  column.

How to Make Muscadine Wine

by Martha Tate

    The Vohmans use the following method to make muscadine wine. They never measure, but you can adapt the recipe to any amount of fruit you have. Black grapes make the best wine.

  1. Crush the grapes and let them sit in loosely covered container for two or three days.

  2. Put the crushed grapes in a press and extract all juice. Strain through a nylon net bag, available at some wine stores. Then pour the juice into a large container (the Vohmans use a 5-gallon galvanized washtub).

  3. Stir in enough granulated sugar to make an uncooked egg (in its shell) float on top.

  4. Put the juice in a glass or plastic container that has a stopper and a tube to allow fermentation gases to escape.

  5. In six to eight weeks, when the mixture stops bubbling, pour it into an oak cask and let it age for a year.

  6. Pour wine into bottles and cork them.

    The Vohmans estimate that it takes 10 gallons of grapes to make 5 gallons of wine. They are likely to bottle 100 gallons this year, half the legal limit for non-commercial growers.

More about Muscadines

Muscadines are native to Southeastern states and were discovered in the 16th century by European explorers.

           In Georgia, there are two very different grape industries, according to Gerard             Krewer of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service. From             Atlanta south, muscadines are the basis of one industry. In North Georgia,             French hybrid and European species grapes are grown to produce varietal             wines such as Seyval and Sauvignon Blanc.

           Because of their susceptibility to cold, muscadines are not reliably hard in             North Georgia. Below Atlanta, European varietal grapes fall victim to Pierce's             disease, a fungus that does not bother the muscadine.

- Martha Tate   

Like other grapes, muscadines need full sun all day. Higher ground is preferred, and they should not be planted where water stands.

A good trellis is a must. Muscadine vines live long (some are 100 years old), so wooden posts should be pressure-treated and strong wire should be attached to hold the grapes.

Muscadines must be pruned every year. If not, the grape production will be poor and the vines will take years to recover. Prune from mid-December into February while the plants are dormant. Last season's growth should be cut back, leaving two buds. Next year's grapes will spring from this spot.

Propagation can be achieved very easily by air layering. At pruning time, M.D. Vohman places a 3-gallon pot of soil under the trellis. He takes the longest branch (still attached to the mother plant) and places it into the soil, leaving the end exposed. By harvest time, roots are well established and ready to go in the ground. The new plant should produce fruit in two to three years. Seed propagation takes seven years to yield any grapes.

Do not mulch muscadines. Clean under the vines, and keep the area closely mowed.

There are two types of muscadines: perfect flowered and pistillate. If you plant a single vine, it must be a perfect flowered variety such as Southland (black), Cowart (black), Senoia (bronze) or Triumph (bronze). Pistillate varieties must have one or more of the perfect flowered variety planted nearby to achieve pollination. These types include Higgins (bronze), Hunt (black), and Dulcet (black).

Recipe for Muscadine Butter developed by Irene Prewitt

First, crush the muscadines (use any amount you have), and bring   them to a boil (there will be enough juice so no water is needed). Force the pulp through a food mill or coarse sieve to remove skin and seeds.

To each cup of pulp, add 1/2 cup white or brown sugar. To 4 cups of this combination, add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon cloves and 1/4 teaspoon allspice.

If you have not used any unripe fruit, add the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon.

Bring to a boil, stirring frequently until a candy thermometer reaches 220 degrees.

Pour into sterilized jars and cap.

Muscadine Vine Sources

Two of the largest U.S. growers of muscadines are in Georgia.

Bottoms Nursery Route 1, Box 281 Concord, GA 30206, tel. 1-770-495-5661
Ison's Nursery Box 190, Route 1, Highway 16 Brooks, GA 30205, tel. 1-770-599-6970 or 1-800-733-0324.

Edited for space and revised to reflect new telephone area codes, this article originally appeared in the Atlanta Journal and Constitution Home and Garden section Friday October 2, 1992.

For North Georgia and the uplands of the Middle South, Bunch Grapes for the Backyard is a guide to grapes that will do better in areas too cool for muscadines.

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