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The section on fruit trees begins immediately below; click on the hyperlinked text to read about nut trees. FRUIT TREES In Georgia, the main fruit trees we grow are apple, fig, peach, pear, and plum. Nectarines are growing in popularity. Pruning and Training Apple and Pear Trees - another great article from the Cooperative Extension Program
Celeste, or sugar fig, is the main variety recommended for home planting in Middle Georgia. The fresh fruit quality of this variety is superior to other varieties grown in the South. The fruit is small and light brown to violet. During the dormant season, the wood of Celeste is slightly more tolerant to cold than the wood of other varieties. During extremely hot weather, this variety may drop part of its crop. The "Brown Turkey" is another variety of fig that will grow in Middle Georgia. The wood of Brown Turkey is not as cold hardy as that of Celeste. Every few years, a hard freeze kills the branches of this fig in North Georgia, but it returns to bear fruit the following year. South of Atlanta, figs tend to overwinter better and become more consistent bearers of fruit. There are a few ways to coaxe a fig tree to do well in North Georgia. If you live in the Southeastern United States, (outside of Florida) you should buy fig trees from nurseries in your part of the country. California nurseries sell figs that require pollination by a tiny wasp that cannot survive under climatic conditions in the Southeast. PLANTING - Do not apply fertilizer at planting time. Fig trees survive better if set 2 to 4 inches deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Cut them back when transplanting. This "heading back"develops lateral branches and reduces water loss from the above-ground portion. Since the root system may be damaged during transplanting operations, water uptake may be reduced greatly for a short time. Fig trees planted at the beginning of the dormant season often develop root systems before leafing out in the spring. This can be advantageous; however, young trees are more susceptible to cold injury. In areas where cold damage may occur, it is often advisable to delay transplanting until just before dormancy is broken in late winter.Young trees to be transplanted should be dug with care to prevent root damage. Inspect trees bought from nurseries to ensure that roots are healthy and are not damaged. Remove any broken or dried roots. Dig a hole deeper and wider than necessary for the root system. Place the tree upright at the proper depth. Crumble the soil around the roots, and pack it down several times during the filling operation to bring all roots into contact with moist soil. After planting, water the tree to settle the soil firmly around the roots. If conditions are extremely dry, watering before the hole is completely filled is beneficial. To start a new fig tree from a cutting Soil Requirements - Fig trees grow in a variety of soils, ranging from sandy loams to clay loams. They grow best in soils 4 feet or more in depth, but they also survive on shallower soils with hardpan or subsoil layers. A pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is suggested. In most of Georgia, lime needs to be added to raise the pH to that level. Keep ground mulched around the trees to keep it free of weeds, but don't cultivate so deeply the surface roots will be damaged. Mulch with organic fertilizer such as composted manure. Ground should be kept moist. Pruning -At planting time, cut off (top or head) young trees about 24 to 30 inches above the ground. During the first growing season, the new shoot growth that arises near the point of topping forms the structural branches or scaffold limbs. During the first dormant season, select three to four scaffold branches that are evenly distributed around the trunk. Completely remove the other branches. Continue to train fig trees during the first 5 years when the trees are increasing in height and spread. The main objective of pruning is to maintain tree growth in an upward and outward pattern by thinning out interfering branches and by removing flat, low-growing limbs. Prune mature trees during the dormant season by thinning out branches and by slightly heading back long shoots to maintain tree vigor and shape. Remember, breba crop figs are produced at the ends of the previous year's shoot growth. If you desire first crop figs, leave some full length branches when pruning. Failure to prune results in a brushy tree that lacks vigor, tends to be susceptible to limb sunburn, and produces small, inferior quality figs. Prune enough to stimulate a foot of new growth on most limbs each year. The amount of pruning required depends on the variety; Brown Turkey and Kadota, for example, need more pruning than do Adriatic and Mission. Fertilization - Remember, too much fertilizer can result in tree damage, particularly when trees are young. Composted manure is best. Roots are shallow, do not "dig in" the mulch. In areas with acidic soil, use lime to bring pH to 6.0 to 6.5. Apply the fertilizer in late winter or early spring. Be careful not to encourage excessive vegetative growth by over fertilization because this delays fruit ripening and reduces quality. If trees are producing more that 1 to 2 feet of new growth a year, reduce or eliminate nitrogen fertilization. Cold Protection - North of Zone 7, it is best to provide figs with winter protection. After the leaves have fallen, prune out any unwanted branches, wrap the remaining ones with several layers of paper or burlap.Tie them together as tight as possible without breaking them, and then use a final layer of tar paper or plastic film. Secure the top so water cannot seep in. Remove the wrapping just before new growth starts in the spring. Planting a fig in front of a south-facing brick wall can also help it survive the winter. Figs may also be grown in pots and stored in an unheated basement or garage for the winter. If grown in pots, they should be repotted every second year with fresh soil.
Varieties of Peaches & Growing Seasons
*Popular pickling peach **Popular freezing peach
Growing Peaches
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