WARNING: This message is long. Read at your own risk.
And now, it's time for the review of "Maui: The Movie." This movie ran
over three days, from Friday, August 1 to Sunday, August 3. The stars
of the movie were (in no particular order):
Brad Cavanagh - your intrepid reviewer.
Andrew van Wensen - one of Brad's roommates, the 4x4 driver.
Sara Ellison - One of the Brits, the 4x4 driver distractor.
James Morden - The second Brit, friend of Sara, likes to talk a
lot,
works on setting up cool electronic stuff for big name concerts,
flinches when he hears a cellular phone.
Meghan Gray - A Canadian (we found another one!) working at the
Canada-France-Hawaii Telescope who went to Mount Allison but then ended
up in Victoria for reasons not made totally clear to your intrepid
reviewer.
Christina O'Regan - Carleton engineer working at JAC, enjoys hot
showers
and was sorely disappointed by the tremendous lack of said hot showers
at campsites.
Mike Ade - (NOT the other Mike) A friend of Christina, the driver
of
the
other car who's going back to Canada some time soon (or so I've been
told).
The preamble to the trip came on Thursday, when I found out that we
were actually leaving Friday morning, and not Friday afternoon, as I was
previously lead to believe. This lead to me frantically asking my
supervisor if I could get Friday off. After much pleading and begging,
I got the green light. Actually, it was more like, "Frossie, can I get
Friday off?" "Um, yeah, sure Brad."
Friday rolled around, and we headed to the airport. Our flight was
leaving Hilo at around 8:40, so we got there at about 7:45. Oh, "we"
was me, Andrew, and Sara. We were meeting Meghan, Christina, and Mike
there, because Meghan had to drive in from Waimea, which is about an
hour away from Hilo. We waited around there for a few minutes,
wondering if they were going to show. Christina had all the tickets, so
we were getting a tad worried. They showed up, and it was check-in
time. As we were walking to our gate, Meghan's bizarre coincidences
started making an appearance. Sara's going to Cambridge in October to
do her PhD, and, amazingly enough, so is Meghan. That was just the
beginning... We met James at the Maui airport because he flew in from
Honolulu, and then it was off to the car rental place.
We dropped all our luggage off outside, and was there ever a lot! I
didn't think seven people could generate that much luggage for a three
day trip. Anyways, there was some confusion inside, because none of us
were 25 or older, and if you're under 25, you pay an extra $20/day, but
we were going through a package deal that waived that extra fee, but the
lady wasn't buying it. After some wrangling on Sara and Andrew's part,
we got the discount. Me, of course, always thinking, say "Hey, why
don't we get the Pathfinder?" It turned out that a 4x4 was only an
extra $25/day, but since we got a $20/day discount, it only cost an
extra $5/day (that's my reasoning, and I'm sticking to it!). So, we got
a 4x4. GMC Jimmy, in case you're interested. There were actually two
vehicles, the other being a Buick of some sort. In the 4x4 went
me, Andrew, Sara, and James, and Christina, Mike, and Meghan went in the
Buick. James brought along some tapes, so we were subjected to a
double whammy of the music and his singing. Some of it wasn't bad, like
when "Losing My Religion" or "Kokomo" came on, the whole car joined in.
Kokomo was rather fitting for our surroundings.
Off to Hana. The road to Hana runs along the coastline/jungle of
western Maui to, interestingly enough, a town called Hana. It's a
narrow, winding road that has 54 bridges. Very picturesque, very
beautiful. Very sickening, if you drive it too fast. We stopped off in
Paia, which is just before this road, and grabbed some lunch. Best
burgers I've had in a long time. Then we were off. We heard stories
from people at JAC that this road is virtually guaranteed to induce
car-sickness, so I was prepared for a good ride. It wasn't too bad,
actually. The scenery was great, but some of the waterfalls were a
little disappointing. Nothing "Rainbow Falls"-ish, just wispy falls
that cascaded gently over rocks into tranquil pools. There was one fall
right next to the road, so your intrepid reporter got under it to cool
off. We stopped at a couple places along the way, but nothing
particularly spectacular.
One thing we did along the Hana Highway (if you can call it that!) was
we took a short jaunt along a dirt road to try to see a heiau that was
somewhere along the shoreline. Well, we got to the end of this road,
after driving through a small creek and nearly running over tens of
birds, and got out to look around. A short hike down the shoreline
revealed a nice waterfall, but no heiau. I nearly fell into a pond
trying to get a picture of this waterfall (on my back, with my head
dangerously close to the pond). But alas, we couldn't find the heiau.
No matter, because it was a nice break.
When we got to Hana (actually, Waianapanapa State Park - where we were
camping) we tried to hunt around for the other three. You see, I guess
they didn't stop off at as many places as we did, for when we got there,
they were already there, and we couldn't find them. We headed off the
the right, along the shoreline, to go see a heiau, which is the ruins of
a Hawaiian village, temple, place of refuge, whatever you want. On the
way there Andrew and I discovered a blowhole-type thing, where the waves
would come in and get forced up to blow onto shore. We checked that out
for a couple minutes, and got disappointed when nothing big came. We
turned around to leave, when all of a sudden I heard a tremendous roar
from behind me, and turned around to see Andrew get swamped. Absolutely
swamped. He was drenched. Oh, for a camera. A second one came, washed
completely over Andrew again, and came to give me a salt water shower.
We continued on to catch up to Sara and James, and got some mild
ridiculing when we did. Turned back to the campground, and met up with
the other three. Of course, they had to ask Andrew and I if we went
swimming, as we were still rather wet.
After we met up with the others, we decided to head into Hana, a sleepy
little town on the eastern tip of Maui. It was sleepy simply because we
got there sometime just before 6:30, and nothing was open. Well, not
nothing. There were two restaurants open, but we decided not to sample
some of their fares. The reason? Well, the first had dinners for $50 a
pop, which was a little out of our range. The second had prices a
little more respectible, from $19 to $39, but we're all rather poor,
being students and all. With luck there was a general store open where
we loaded up on foodstuffs. We headed back to Waianapanapa S.P. and set
up camp. The camping situation was a
little interesting, because Chris
(one of my other roommates) skipped out, even though his name was on the
permit, and Meghan didn't have a permit, so she had to go as "Chris
Salvian" in case we got checked. We didn't, so she didn't get booted
out of the park. Camping was just splendiferous. The air was so clear,
the stars were so bright, it was as if we could just reach up and brush
against the majestic beauty. The occasional satellite made it's slow
and unwavering way across the sky, only to blink out when it entered the
shadow of the Earth. Meteors flashed over in a brief, yet brilliant
life. The Milky Way stood out like a giant river frozen in time as it
raged across the sky. The Moon was new, so it was not up to interfere
with the celestial wonders. Meghan and I took turns educating and
enlightening those not familiar with the night sky. After downing a
bottle of wine supplied by James, and noshing on Hershey Kisses supplied
by Meghan and strawberry cheesecake supplied by Your Faithful Narrator
(sorry, I just finished reading "A Clockwork Orange"), we got in our
respective tents and got to sleep. I tented with Andrew, who was fit
and determined to make his 6'5" frame take up the entire tent. I was
awakened at 2:30 by the water dripping into our tent through the air
vents at the top. You see, it was a rather hot night, so I took the
outer cover of the tent off to get some more air, thinking that since it
was such a beautiful night, nothing could ruin it. I was wrong, and it
rained a bit. It wasn't that hard of a rain, and it cooled things off,
so I'm not complaining. The next morning we were going to wake up at
5:30 to see the sunrise. I had set my alarm on my watch, but when it
sounded at 5:30:00, it subsequently got shut off at 5:30:03, and I went
back to sleep. I woke up at around 6:30, and listened to Great Big Sea
while waiting for the others to come out of their tents. The shower was
a real eye-opener. Nice and brisk, like the water flowing from a
mountain stream fed by glaciers hiding in their lofty domains in the
Rockies. After showering, we broke camp and headed out.
We had a slight rearrangement of automobile participants on Saturday.
Christina and Mike decided to go back down the Hana Highway, because the
loop continuing on around the island was recommended for 4x4s only.
Meghan wanted to do some hiking (like we planned to do), so she came
along with us. Thank goodness we got the 4x4, because there's no way we
would have fit all the luggage and people into a Geo Metro. Well,
unless we wanted to get really friendly. We pushed off from
Waianapanapa S.P., heading south. We wanted to stop in at the Seven
Sacred Pools (there are actually 24, and none of them are sacred), but
apparently we drove right past them. No worries. We pushed on along
the southern route, the one that's suggested to be taken by 4wd's only.
It was a nice dirt road for a bit, a little narrow, but otherwise fine.
One highlight (I think it was a highlight) was running across this old
store that made up a town on our maps. Strange how a store can make up
an entire town. Also along this road we spotted an old church down on
the shore, so we stopped to investigate. As we were walking down to the
church, we ran across some endangered Hawaiian Monk seals in a tidal
pool-like pool. They were just sitting there, so when I first saw them,
I thought they were dead. Then, one of them blinked. Andrew got a
little close, so one of them reared up and looked like it was a tad
pissed off at our presence. We continued on to the church, which was
very peaceful. Only the five of us, not another soul to be seen. The
only sign of humanity is the simple church, and our truck on the road.
After the church we got onto a paved road, which was better than dirt.
More speed, for one. Still narrow, but at least we could get over 20
mph. The terrain was quite desolate and dry, much like the Okanagan in
British Columbia. We passed by what looked like a mini army base, out
in the middle of nowhere. Eventually we made our way into more fertile
lands, and came across a winery. Seeing as it was James' birthday, we
stopped in and did a little taste-testing. Some of their stuff wasn't
all too bad, and this is coming from someone who doesn't drink wine very
often. We walked down the street to get some lunch, then brought it
back to the winery where we could picnic, along with a bottle of their
champagne. After the winery experience, we continued on to Haleakala
National Park.
We drove in at around 3:00, and shelled out the $10 admission for the
car. We stopped off at Hosmer Grove, which is where we were going to do
our camping for the second night. This place is bliss. The first thing
that struck me was the smell of the trees, just like walking through a
forest back home. The second thing that struck me was the temperature;
even though it was a brilliantly sunny day, the air was rather chill,
and there was a good wind blowing. We trekked through some nature
trails, admiring the floral delights. All sorts of things in there,
from Douglas Fir to eucalyptus trees. Mike and Christina hadn't arrived
by the time we'd exited the grove, so we headed up the side of
Haleakala. First stop was a viewing area at about 9800 feet. The
summit is at 10,000 feet, so it's quite high, and altitude sickness is
something one might have to worry about. Everybody (except James) has
been up to the summit of Mauna Kea, at 13,800 feet, so we were pretty
much used to high altitude. The view up there was just spectacular.
You're looking over one of
the world's largest dormant volcanoes,
into a caldera that's so large a city fit in it with room to spare. The
surface of the caldera is so rocky, so desolate, so alien that NASA
trained for the Moon landings there. Clouds were attempting to push
their way into the caldera, but weren't succeeding, leaving the air
crisp and clear for some superb viewing. We drove on up to the summit
for more great views. The solar observatories they've got there are
rather interesting. One (which I assume was the gamma ray observatory)
looked like no other scope I've seen before. We saw a few silversword
plants, which are only found on Haleakala, pushing my endangered species
sightings up to four (silversword, nene, green sea turtle, Hawaiian monk
seals). Then, back down to the campsite to see if Christina and Mike
were there, which they weren't, so we headed into town to get some
food. On the way back we passed Mike, who was driving down to get
food. They'd arrived at Hosmer Grove, and Christina stayed behind. At
the store I picked up a couple of eclairs. More about them later. We
got back to our campsite and made camp. There was an astronomy tour
that night, so we went on that. A short walk down the road, and we all
laid on our blankets and sleeping bags while two park officials told
stories about the stars. As there were three astronomy students there,
we were rather critical. The worst part was when one of the park people
said Titan was a moon of Jupiter. That was almost too much. The three
of us (me, Meghan, and Sara) were going to take over the tour, and show
them what's what, but we didn't. We gave little private tours to our
friends, though. Meghan beat me to Delphinus, but I got Scorpio! After
the tour was over, we tromped back to our tents. I was freezing,
because I didn't bring over any long pants, just shorts. My toes were
on the brink of turning into ice cubes, but luckily I was wearing my
wool socks which fought valiantly with the invading forces of the cold
wind. We laid out under the stars again, trying to both keep from
freezing and point out what the park people had just failed to show.
Meghan shared a number of strange coincidences that have fallen in her
lap (such as meeting someone I go to school with at a physics conference
-- the others are much more bizarre). And we went to sleep. That night
it rained, and I wasn't dumb enough to take the top off the tent, so we
stayed dry. I was freezing, even in my sleeping bag, but at least we
were dry.
Morning came early, as I was awakened by the *beep* *beep* *beep* of my
watch alarm going off at 4. "Why so early?" you may ask. Well, we had
to get up early to go see the sunrise from atop Haleakala, which is
supposed to be one of the best places to see sunrises from. We drove up
to a lookout a few hundred feet shy of the summit. All alone. No
tourists there to spoil the experience. We had a good omen when a
fireball drifted across the sky over the twinkling sea-side cities below
us. Superb. That's number two for yours truly. This one was better
than the first, for a number of reasons. First, I was able to share it
with other people. Second, it was bright green, and the air was crystal
clear, clearer than air had ever seemed before. Third, it was in
Hawaii. You just can't beat that. After that ethereal experience, I
was expecting quite a show. I wasn't too let down. Unfortunately,
there were some clouds obscuring the horizon, but we could still see the
colours changing as the sun made it way towards the arrival of another
day. Beautiful colours, blue, purple, a green band, yellow, orange,
red. Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa were two islands floating in a sea of
cloud. Clouds came up as we were leaving. We drove back down to Hosmer
Grove, and broke camp. Somehow, we had a whole lot more luggage in the
back of our Jimmy than we'd started with, even with the addition of
Meghan's stuff. I guess luggage is like coat hangers; leave some
together by itself and it multiplies.
We split ways again, with Christina and Mike heading off to do their own
thing, while the rest of us drove up to East Maui, another section
that's recommended for 4wd's only. I don't know why, because the whole
thing was paved, but narrower than the road to Hana. We stopped at
numerous places along the way, simply because the scenery was so
beautiful. We got a glorious view of Haleakala with one of the cities
waking up to face another day in the valley separating the two sections
of Maui. Remember, we'd been up since 4, so we had an early start.
There was very little traffic on the road, which was lucky, because this
road was very narrow. There were many interesting signs along the way,
such as "Narrow Winding Road" (after we've been driving on the bloody
thing for 10 miles, I think we could have figured this out for
ourselves) and "Do Not Walk Tractors On Road" (yeah, figure that one
out!). We weren't submitted to listening to James' music, as Meghan had
brought along some tapes. Finally, some decent music! There was
another wonderful view (there were many, but this one stood out), this
one of a quaint little settling in a valley right next to the sea. Very
picturesque. We also stopped in at a grassy region where people had
piled up rocks in small towers, as monuments of their existance. That
was simply superb. I've never felt so alive! From there we pushed on,
and eventually hit the resort area. We tried to find this beach we'd
heard about, and after finding there was no parking right next to it, we
thought we'd park further away and walk in. The first route we took was
no good, as it lead to shoreline but no beach, so we had to trek back
along the road to the real beach access. Nice beach, I might say. The
water was fairly warm, but it got deep far out. I found that out by
trying to reach the bottom, but it eluded me, causing me to nearly take
a lungful of salt water. There weren't many fish, from what we could
see. I took along my eclairs, in hopes of eating them, but I only took
a bite out of one. They'd become a little stale. As we were leaving,
we had to wait for various people to finish changing, so I finished off
my half-eaten eclair, and offered the other to Andrew. When they (Sara
and Meghan) rejoined our merry little group, they thought I'd had both
of them. What, does it look like I could eat two eclairs in as many
minutes? We stayed around there for about an hour and a half, then went
on driving. We got lunch in Lahaina, home of the US's largest banyan
tree. After having lunch, we hunted out the two Haagan-Dasz ice cream
stores in search of Bailey's-flavoured ice cream. The first one didn't
have it, but the second one did, to James' delight. As we were eating
our ice cream, Sara and James had an interesting "discussion" about the
recent government change in England, which I was hoping would escalate.
Unfortunately, they're both nice people and kept it rather calm. We had
to be back at the airport for 4, to drop off the car and get there in
time for James' flight. We stayed close to the airport, and headed up
Iao Valley to see the phallic rock. The thirty minute walk (according
to signs) took us about five minutes. Most of our time there was spent
by Sara and Meghan (Sara mostly) trying to convince Andrew and I to pose
in front of a bucket that said "Butts Only". We didn't, although upon
looking back, I think we should have. We tidied up our truck there,
getting everything sorted out, and then headed back to the airport.
James was flying back via Honolulu (don't ask why - I'm not terribly
certain myself), so he had to go earlier than us. We met up with
Christina and Mike there, and got on the airplane. After a 20 minute
flight home, which consisted of Meghan not getting her Coke, me having
the 'scopes on Mauna Kea pointed out for me, and me trying to show
Meghan where we live from the air ("See the hospital? We live somewhere
near there." I'm not totally sure she saw...), we landed in Hilo to
beautiful weather. Collecting our luggage finished off the trip, and we
headed to our respective homes.
All in all, it was a great trip. I'll give it a 9 out of 10.
Any similarities between any persons, living or dead, is strictly
intentional. This movie has been rated PG for adult language, although
only British people would get it (Oh, bollocks!).
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