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It is possible to connect two computers together and play network games through their serial ports. (Com ports) This type of connection is known as a null-modem connection. This type of link communicates in a similar fashion as a modem but does not actually use the modem to negotiate the hookup. This type of connection also allows much faster data communication than a modem normally yields.
I have spent many hours trying to gather the information on how to make this work. Of course nearly every game with multiplayer abilities says just plug in a cable, run setup, and voila! Well I tried that and it didn't work. Their documentation stops there. If at first you didn't succeed, good luck doing it later.
Included is a small batch file that I have created. This program
contains basically the same information that can be found on this page.
This file is compressed. Null.zip (4K)
Below I will review the types of problems that I had and the solutions
to them. I will try to cover all possible hang ups but cannot guarantee
that all scenarios will be covered since with computers, the possibilities
are endless. I began all this long ago. My brother and myself both owned computers.
We both had Doom2 and wanted to play. It was easy to play
(well, easy when our modems would talk to each other) with my friends
across town by dialing up with a modem, but should it have to be so hard to
play against someone in my own house? The answer is no. It was so difficult
for me because the folks at ID software or Apogee, or wherever, would not
go far enough with their explanations. I will pick up where I think they
left off. The first time I tried, I plugged in a cable and ran setup. (doom2)
Both of us instantly got the error message "duplicate ID string."
This means that there is an error with your cable. A plain Jane cable alone is not
sufficient for this connection. You need an adapter that plugs into one end
of your cable. This adapter is about 3 inches long and is called a
"null-modem adapter." The function of this device is to alter the pinouts
of the cable.
When the cable was made, it was made for use with a computer port to
communicate with an external device, one example would be a modem. For
my purposes here I will make up the scenario. The actual numbers are not
important here, just the concept. Let us suppose that the cable we have
contains a red and blue wire. We will also suppose that
the computer can only send data through the red wire. Also, the
computer can only receive data in the blue wire. This all works
out conveniently because the external device that we are connecting to-a
modem for example, can only receive data through the red wire and only send
with the blue wire.
Now we are going to unplug the modem and put the cable into the back of
another computer. Computer #1 will try to talk to #2 through the red wire.
Computer #2 will try to talk to computer #1 through the red wire. Both
machines are listening to the blue wire. The result is that nothing is
communicated because both are saying, "hello I am the other computer"
at the same time and neither can
hear what the other is saying. (duplicate ID string)
So what needs to be done is cross
these wires between point A and point B. That is what the null modem adapter does.
Of course more than two wires are used and several are crossed.
If you seek details on what pins are switched, refer to
(Serial Ports) and null modem pin configurations.
On most computers there are two serial ports, com1 and com2. Generally
one port is wider than the other. Ports can be 25 pin or 9 pin ports. It
makes no difference which is used. As with any other system device, your com port uses system resources.
For example, IRQ 3, Memory range 03f8. One very possible conflict is that
your modem is already using the resource that your com port is demanding.
In order to defeat this you can do one of several things.
Explanation of why a null-modem adapter is needed and what it is
Possible causes for failure
When you power on your computer, your BIOS asks your modem what resources
it wants to use. If it demands port 1 and you try to use one for another
purpose, it can't have it, no vacancy with that resource. By removing
your modem, that resource is never requested and thus is free. This may
be a less desirable solution especially if you value easy use of your modem.
You can manually change your modem to use another port. Though you have
two ports in the back of your computer, you have potentially available 4
ports. Port 2 and 4 would be the same plug on your computer, but only one
would use the resources at the same time. The same for 1 and 3. If you have
a modem on 4, and connection on 2, both will work but NOT at the same time.
Doing this requires changing the jumper settings on your modem. You must
set them for the port and IRQ. To do this correctly you need to consult
your hardware documentation or it is possible printed on the side of your
modem.
*duh*
*Be sure the ports are enabled in your BIOS. One of the last problem that I found I had was that com2, which I was trying to use, was disabled in my BIOS. I enabled that but then my modem conflicted. After I changed my modem to com4, I was able to make the connection work.
...That was then. Now on my newer computer, I can't get the null modem game to work at all if my modem is plugged in to my board. Arrrg! Not only that, but I can't get my modem to work on any port but 1 if port 2 is not disabled in BIOS. Does this seem stupid? Can somebody design this better?
If you have to adjust your BIOS settings, which you may, you will probably have to do some trial and error until you get things right. The following page, More about com ports (text only) explains a little about serial ports and tells how I had mine set up to work.
Another one of my hardest problems was getting the correct cable. No offense intended to Radio Shack (any other store) but I warn you about going in to Radio Shack and asking the clerk for a "serial cable" and a "null-modem adapter." I did this and I bought the wrong stuff on more than one occasion at more than one store location. Find out what you need and get it yourself. Half of those guys are morons on commission who will say "sure" regardless of the correct answer.
The best solution in my opinion if you are capable of doing so is to make your own cable. That is what I did and I was highly successful. The job can be done for $15 dollars in parts and a soldering iron. The yield is a 25 foot cable. Much better value than you are likely to buy one of equal length for.
I purchased the ends (about two dollars each) and a 50 foot spool of telephone cable. (4 wires) Cut the phone line in half. Now you will have 8 wires. This is all you will need. Now solder. You have the option of wiring it pin-to-pin like a standard serial cable and then putting an adapter on it, or do like I did, wire it null-modem in the first place. (switch the wires yourself) Now twist the wires so that the wires don't hang all over the place and tape them incrementally and you have a nice cable. Visit Serial Ports to find out what pins you need to switch.
I decided 25 feet was too short so I made another and wired it straight through to be my extension. Now 50 feet makes it darn near everywhere in the house and works fine. Use your own judgement here. I have read that serial cables and parallel cables are not intended for use over 20 feet and after that become less reliable. I have yet had no trouble. Perhaps phone wires have less resistance. (or else they were wrong) *shrug*Disclaimer: This is a report of my findings only. If you wish to follow a path similar to mine, that is fine and that is your free decision. Do not expect me to take responsibility for any of your actions regardless if the consequences are good or bad.
Copyright © 1997 Ryan Richardson and Daniel Shickell
For further questions, spelling corrections, or other, mail Jrrricha@indiana.edu.
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