Home africa title africa title
Tanzania Kenya Botswana South Africa Zimbabwe Egypt Zanzibar

KENYA

Before you leave, think about what to take and what not to take. Keith Waterhouse quotes; Hints to lady travellers in 1889: "It is a great convenience to take one's bath with one". and adds: "A hundred years on there is still a nomadic tribal urge to pack everything, including the kitchen sink". Take as least twice as much film as you think you will need. I will take over 30 rolls of film on a two week safari. Make sure you have spare batteries for your camera;.on one occasion, one of our travelling companion's camera packed up on the second day. He was surprised as he had only had the camera two years! Pack about half what you think you will need. The laundry facilities at all the lodges are very good and very cheap. Take only clothes made from 100% cotton. Most of the lodges have swimming pools so don't forget your swimming costume.

Take a high factor sun screen. Don't forget you are going to Africa from an English winter and so you will be very vulnerable from the sun. You will need a hat which is best bought in Nairobi.

Nine hours flying time from London and you land at Nairobi, my favourite of the African Capital Cities.

Nairobi is a Maasai word meaning "Place of cool waters". Named for its vast swamps, the city of Nairobi had its origins in the construction of the East African Railway line at the close of the 19th century. Once the railway line reached Nairobi in 1896, it became a railway town, populated by labourers, soldiers and traders. It was the ideal climatic conditions, and the centrality of Nairobi that led to its transformation into a major trading town and two years later, in 1898, the sprawling capital of Kenya was officially established.

The turn of the century saw more white settlers arriving, many of whom settled in Nairobi and the highlands, a few miles outside the city.

In 1920 Kenya became a British Crown Colony. Following the 2nd World War, Kenyans began to agitate for independence from the British Crown. This led to the birth of the Mau Mau movement and, 15 years later, in 1963, the Republic of Kenya was established.

As you leave the airport which is normally pretty early in the morning after a night flight, the first thing you notice is the profusion of bougainvillaea along the road. We have stayed at several of the hotels, our favourite is the Serena.

These days, sadly, it is not safe to walk down into the City centre, even during the day, but the Serena has a courtesy bus that is on hand and will take you down and bring you back. It is not safe to walk out at night under any circumstances. During the day If there are four of you you are as safe as you can be. Don't wear expensive jewellery, or have handbags hanging off your shoulder. In fact just be aware that the cameras you may carry and the jewellery you may wear would keep a poor family for a year - or even for a lifetime.

The indoor City Market is well worth a visit and the courtesy bus will drop you right outside the entrance. We always go into the Nation Bookshop which is just beside the New Stanley Hotel, and a great place to browse if you enjoy books. The first year we were in Nairobi I saw a book "Learn to Drive By Pictures". We had already bought several books so decided we would get it another year. We have searched for it ever since and never found it. There is a moral here; if you see something you really like, buy it then and there.

The best time, we think, to go to Kenya on safari is in February. There are several reasons for this. For one thing it is a good time to leave the UK winter behind. It is also the best time to see the animals as there has been no rain for a while and so the undergrowth has died down. If you go just after the long or the short rains the grass is so high that you see little wildlife and they are all hiding in the long grass.

We have been to Kenya a lot and we have usually travelled with a travel company called Kuoni. Kuoni do the best and the most reasonable safaris. Two of the best they do are the Leopard and the Cheetah safaris. Both these safaris are good value and you see a lot of the country and a lot of wildlife.

With most travel companies you are given a couple of days to get acclimatised to the heat Nairobi is 5,000ft above sea level so the temperature is always very pleasant. One of the first things you need to buy is a safari hat.

The very first time Ralph took me to Kenya I woke up in the morning and said to him "I wonder what the weather is doing?" he said "It's a beautiful sunny day." I challenged him on, saying how could he possibly know. But Ralph had been there before and knew that Nairobi is always warm and sunny in February. He was in Kenya with the Royal Army Vet. Corps in the late 1950's

If you are staying in Nairobi for more than a couple of days there are lots of very good tours you can take. You can visit Daphne Sheldrick's elephant orphanage between 12 - 1pm and watch the baby orphan elephants and rhinos having their daily mud bath. We have visited Daphne on several occasions and one of the things that I will never forget is a baby elephant coming up to me, reaching out with his trunk and ever so gently feeling all over my face; quite enchanting. You will probably end up as we did, adopting a baby elephant.

The photographs show Skud the young rhino that Daphne Sheldrick reared. This young rhino was adopted by Arsenal Football Club. Skud grew up and had her own calf. The other picture is of the baby elephants having their mud bath which is essential to young rhinos and elephants to keep their skin in good condition.


Scud

Scud's mud bath

Baby elephants
Once you leave Nairobi on your safari you start to see the true countryside of Kenya. Your first view of the Rift Valley is quite breathtaking


The Rift Valley

Your first overnight stop is likely to be one of the tree houses around Mt Kenya. There are three of these lodges. The most famous one is Treetops. This is the lodge that Princess Elizabeth climbed into one night as a princess, and climbed down the next morning a Queen (King George IV had died in the night).

You arrive at the Outspan Hotel where everyone who is going to any of the three tree houses start. If you are lucky you will have lunch here, and on one safari we stayed there overnight.

The Outspan Hotel is at Nyeri and just before you arrive at the hotel you can visit the little church and graveyard in the town. This is the place where Lord Baden Powell and Lady Powell are buried.


I Have Gone Home

It is a lovely place and I loved the sign of Baden Powell's grave which means, to any of us who were girl guides or boy scouts "I have gone home".

Baden Powell lived at the Outspan Hotel for many years and he had a house in the grounds called Paxtu which means "Just Peace." The house still stands in the hotel's beautiful landscaped grounds.

Leaving your case at the Outspan and packing an overnight bag, you leave the Hotel about 3pm. To get to Treetops you pile into a ramshakle old bus and travel 10 miles over fairly rough roads and tracks. When you arrive you leave your vehicle and walk the remaining few hundred yards with an armed guard who has already warned you to be quiet and not to smoke. "The elephants do not like cigarettes". Treetops certainly do things with style. When you arrive in the afternoon there is tea, cucumber sandwiches and scones up on the roof overlooking the waterhole. There are outside spiral steps that take you from floor to floor. One time I was going up the stairs and met a baboon coming down, I don't know who was most surprised but I think it was me.


Treetops

They have a good system at most lodges, you can arrange to be called if anything unusual comes to the water hole during the night. We tend to sit up quite late watching the water hole, and then get up several times in the night to see what is there.

The other two tree houses are Mountain Lodge which is our favourite and is the lodge where I saw my first wild elephant; that was the sort of special moment that I shall remember all my life. Then there is The Ark where we saw five rhinos around the waterhole on one evening.

Leaving Mount Kenya on your way to Samburu you cross the Equator. This always fun to do, and it is well worth watching the 'Paul Daniels' of the area who demonstrates how water, going down the plughole goes firstly in a clockwise direction, then if you cross the equator line it will go down in an anti clockwise direction; and then, finally, right on the line of the equator the water goes straight down. I really believed this the first time I saw it done. A few years later we watched the same demonstration and I noticed that they had moved the Equator line by about 50ft! And every time we go it seems to be in a different place.

e-mail goldenmaggot@talk21.com

Next Page

Home Tanzania Kenya Botswana South Africa Zimbabwe Egypt Zanzibar
1