Grooming Basics







Tools & Equipment needed:
- - pin brush
- metal comb
- grooming rake
- nail clippers & “Quik Stop”
- scissors (beauty supply store for good pair)
- spray bottle
Note: Never shave a Sheltie’s coat! The double coat insulates
against heat and cold. (Exception would be severe skin problems)
Brushing:
Brushing is the most important part of Sheltie grooming. If done
right, it helps keep the coat clean and healthy; if done improperly,
it will break and damage the coat.
A thorough, weekly brushing is necessary from the skin out to help
control shedding and keep the coat and skin healthy. Teaching your
Sheltie to lie on its side will make brushing easier.
Lightly mist the coat as you brush with a waterless shampoo such
as “Self-Rinse Plus” (mail order from Cherrybrook 800-524-0820
www.Cherrybrook.com) to condition the coat, remove dirt, and keep
static electricity from forming as you brush. Even misting with
water will help control static and fly-away hair.
Line brushing is the only way to thoroughly remove the loose
undercoat. Just running a brush over the top of the coat will not
effectively remove any of the loose undercoat. If the loose
undercoat is not regularly brushed out, it can lead to severe
matting and even skin infections. Mats hold moisture -- this leads
to skin infections.
Line Brushing (use pin brush or rake):
Body
- Part hair the length of the Sheltie just below the spine ~~ mist
coat
- Brush against (away from you) the coat
- Part next section about 1/2” down and repeat brushing against coat
- Part, mist, & brush line-by-line down side of Sheltie
- Fur around neck is also separated in sections and line brushed
- Roll Sheltie onto opposite side and repeat the above steps
Rear End
- “skirt” can be thinned with thinning shears if too thick
- Brush skirt in sections -- the skirt is a little more challenging
to brush out, but don’t neglect this part!
- Trim fur around anus to help keep your Sheltie’s skirt clean from
fecal matter.
Note: I f your Sheltie is doing the “Boot Scootin’ Boogie” across
your carpet or yard, it may either have a dirty butt or possibly
blocked anal glands. Dirty butt can be wiped with a Baby Wipe or
damp paper towel. Blocked anal glands need vet care to avoid a
possible infection.
Ears:
- Use a fine-tooth metal comb to comb fine hair behind ears and
feathers on the legs
- Gently comb out any mats behind ears
- If mats must be cut out, be extremely careful not to accidentally
clip the dog!
- Use a dab of alcohol on a Q-tip or cotton ball to clean inside the
ear. Never probe deeply or let alcohol run down into the ear.
- When bathing your Sheltie, be sure to put a cotton ball in each
ear to avoid getting water down into the inner ear
- Feet:
- -Trim excess hair from bottom of the pads (excess hair
collects dirt and gravel -- not only uncomfortable for the
Sheltie, but messy for you)
-Shape the foot into an “oval” by trimming around the outside edge
of the foot ---- taaa-daaa! Beautiful tootsies!
Toenails:
Long toenails allow dirt and mud to accumulate between the toes. The
foot “splays,” and sure footing becomes difficult. Long toenails
also force the Sheltie’s weight onto its heels -- this leads to the
foot becoming tender and breaking down.
Nails should be short enough to not touch the floor when walking.
Trim every two weeks to keep nails the right length. If you are
hearing your Sheltie’s nails as it walks across the floor, it’s time
for a trim! Trim in small slivers if nail is black so you don’t cut
into the quick of the nail. If the nail is white, you can see where
the quick begins.
If you should clip into the quick and it starts bleeding, don’t
panic! If you don’t make a big deal out of it, your Sheltie won’t
either. Apply some Quik Stop (styptic powder) to the end of the
bleeding nail and hold until nail quits bleeding. Corn starch will
also work in a pinch.
If you are unsure how to trim nails, ask a groomer, vet or rescue
volunteer to give you a “quick” lesson! Please don’t neglect your
Sheltie’s foot health just because you are afraid to clip the nails.
Bathing:
Shelties should be bathed every 6-8 weeks! Use a good quality dog
shampoo, not human shampoo. Dogs have a different PH than humans.