After the Canada part of our trip we headed down to San Fransico and hence to Yosemite NP.
We spent our first few days in Yosemite National Park up at Tuolomne. The granite domes provide a good variety of climbing.
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This is one of the routes we climbed on "East Cottage Dome", (5.11b, 22 I think).
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This is Fairview Dome. We climbed two routes on it.
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First we climbed the regular route. Brilliant climbing for such a low grade (5.9 16).
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The other route we did on Fairview was "Lucky Streaks" (5.10b 21).
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The summits here tend to be pretty flat and relaxed.
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No scrub bashing on the descents either.
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Of course, the main attraction at Yosemite is El Cap.
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The route we were planning to do is a reasonable walk from the road (which is near "The Nose").
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I can assure you that those haul bags don't look as massive in this photo as they felt on our backs! As well as two ropes, full climbing gear, aiding gear, porta ledge and sleeping bags we have enough food and water for 3.5 days. This included 24 litres of water (ie 24 kg) and 24 tins of food (probably another 12kg).
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The walk to the base (in 36 degree heat) was hell. We fixed two pitches in the cool of the evening and then slept at the base. This is next day, further up the climb.
Photo: Derek Chinn |
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Being free of the bags and climbing at last is quite a joy. I always find on El Cap though, that there is an underlieing anxiety due to ones awareness of both the massiveness of the job at hand, and the multitude of things that can go wrong.
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Alone on the sea of granite.
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As the afternoon draws on, the shadows chase us up the climb. We got one more pitch in before it became too dim to climb.
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There's no ledges big enough even to stand on until a long way up the wall. The porta ledge is pretty much essential. Photo: Derek Chinn
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This is next morning after packing up the sleeping bags.
Photo: Derek Chinn |
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I've added a couple of porta-ledge photos from a previous trip. This is Rolan on our bivvy on Zodiac (1996).
Photo: Rolan Eberhard |
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Next morning on Zodiac.
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Back to "Lurking Fear". Derek is following pitch 10 at the begining of our third day on the wall; still 12 pitches to go!.
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A long day took us to "Thanksgiving Ledge" (pitch 19). Dinner, as usual, is refried beans (unheated) followed by peaches. Photo: Derek Chinn
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Next morning (day four) we finished the remaining pitches, El Cap meadow now a long way below.
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Climbing El Cap left us buggered. We took a day or two's rest and then did more cragging at Tuolomne. Before long though, we were looking for another biggy. We had our doubts, but Half Dome seemed like a logical choice.
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The walk to the base takes the long way around the back. Eventually you turn the corner and are presented with 2000' of sheer rock. Photo: Derek Chinn
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We planned to do it in a day so speed was critical. Many of the pitches can be climbed free at a grade we were comfortable with. For the harder ones we pulled on gear or resorted to full aid ( only 2 et's though). Photo: Derek Chinn
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The "Thank God Ledge" pitch.
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The last rays of sunlight and still two pitches to go. We just managed to get the last pitch done without needing the headlamps.
Photo: Derk Chinn |
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After Half Dome, Derek's time was up. I did some cragging at Owens" and some walks in the Sierra. This one was with Lynn Bowering and "Whitey".
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It was good to see Kelly and Sammie when I got back. They seemd pleased to see me back too.
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