These guidelines have been created for Members and Recruits of the Capitol Guards as a tool to maintaining high levels of authenticity and military bearing in representing Arkansans serving in the Army of Tennessee and the Army of the Trans-Mississippi. Many of these standards are also applicable to Confederate forces in general.

Nearly all of the uniforms & equipment recommended by these guidelines are illustrated in the set of Time-Life books, Echoes of Glory: 1) Arms & Equipment of the Confederacy and 2) Arms & Equipment of the Union, therefore, images from that series are included to each particular item in these guidelines by book & page number. Items will be abbreviated as [EOG/CS] for the Confederate book & [EOG/US] for the Union book. References to Echoes of Glory are included only as a visual reference only, and are not a source of documentation for the items below. These series of books can be obtained at most popular bookstores and libraries.

A General Note of Caution to all new members (and even some old hands): Few things are more annoying than an individual who makes an inappropriate purchase then approaches other reenactors asking them, "Is this O.K. for me to wear?" Avoid the hassle. Ask before you buy, that way you won't get stuck with something you just won't be able to wear.

The primary impression of the Capitol Guards is that of Arkansas Confederates serving in the Army of Tennessee from the period October 1861 until December, 1864. Our secondary impression is of Arkansas Confederates in the Trans-Mississippi department.

A. What is Expected.
New recruits ("fresh fish") have 18 months to purchase their initial items. The Company maintains a "loaner box" of spare uniforms and equipment to assist our new members in rounding out their impression and getting on the field. After 12 months, however, fresh fish (who at this point are becoming veteran volunteers) no longer have priority on loaner items.

Recommended 1st purchases:

• Uniform: Shoes ("Jefferson" brogans), socks, shirt, trousers, braces, jacket, slouch hat.
• Equipment: Canteen, haversack, tin cup, mess gear.

2nd purchases:

• Equipment: Gum blanket (or poncho), cartridge box, cap pouch, waist belt, buckle, wool blanket.

3rd purchases:

• Equipment: P1853 Enfield, or 1842 U.S. Springfield, appropriate bayonet and scabbard

B. Purchasing Clothing and Equipment.

1. The first rule is to buy good stuff. Don't waste your money by getting all fired up and purchasing hundreds of dollars worth of junk. RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY!! Do your research, shop around, and buy one time. Otherwise, you run out and get something, then as you learn more about what the real/authentic stuff looked like, you wind up going back and buying all over again.
2. Don't confuse low-quality, junk loaner clothing or equipment with items from approved vendors. Many of the loaner items are our earlier mistakes, and we'll be glad to point out and explain our mistakes.
3. These guidelines recommend vendors for specific items based on the quality and historical authenticity of the specific goods offered. While we're not prohibiting you from running out and buying your uniform from C&C Sutlery, for example, you'll be happier and a lot better served buying from one of the recommended vendors.
4. Buy your shoes first. We will rarely have loaner shoes that will properly fit you. Don't buy cheap or unapproved shoes just to get on the field. Make sure they fit you, then break them in. The next items you'll need are your shirt, trousers, drawers (if worn), suspenders and socks. Buy your mess equipment at or before your first event.
5. Some of the recommended vendors do not travel to local events. Don't expect that you'll always be able to buy appropriate items from event sutlers. You may have to purchase a good bit of your gear by mail-order.

C. General Appearance.

• Hair. The military regulations of both sides required that the soldier's hair and beard be short. Study period photographs to determine how well you'd fit in. The Revised Regulations for the United States Army (1861) and the Regulations for the Army of the Confederate States, (1863) both state: "The hair to be worn short; the beard at the pleasure of the individual; but when worn, to be kept short and neatly trimmed." Accordingly, hair styles outside the period norm are not negotiable.
• Jewelry. A private soldier of the War rarely wore any jewelry beyond a simple wedding band. No wristwatches.
• Buttonholes which can be clearly seen (in other words, on the front of a jacket or coat) should be hand sewn. Visible tops
• Spectacles (if worn). If you need corrective lenses to see and be functional, then period eyeglasses are required. Contact lenses are an excellent option, or you might consider going without your glasses when in formation (part of what all that insistence on "touching elbows" in company and battalion drill is about.) Eyeglasses are custom made, so you won't be able to use someone else's anyway. Period eyeglass frames can be found at many flea markets or auction (farm) sales. Look though the antique and junk tables for the small, all steel or gold wire frames. They should be oval or rectangular. Frames of this type were used almost continuously throughout the 19th century. Round frame ("Hippie style") glasses were popular during the 18th century and were definitely out of date by the Civil War. No sunglasses, or tinted lenses are permitted.
• Condition of clothing. With the exception of memorial and commemorative services, we typically portray an army on the march. Your clothing should not be pristinely clean when you arrive at an event. (In other words, leave the mud on it and look like you have been in the field for weeks, not minutes.) General Wm. T. Sherman's remark about his troops applied equally to Confederates, and should be your guide: "The longer these men are in the service, the more they look like day laborers than soldiers."

USE OF "CAPTURED" FEDERAL ITEMS
Since most of the Western Confederate soldiers had little contact with the enemy for extended periods, and rarely retained possession of a battlefield regardless of whether they won the fight or not, only durable "captured" items would be appropriate. Only limited numbers of Federal-style canteens, blankets, knapsacks, haversacks, Hardee hats, gum blankets, accoutrements and weapons (e.g. Springfield .58 cal. muskets) should be used. Federal sky-blue enlisted man's foot trousers would have been extremely rare if seen at all.

A. HEADGEAR
What to Look For: The most popular headgear was a civilian style "beehive" hat in light color. [EOG/CS -pages 166-169]. Types of headgear acceptable are listed here in order of prevalence:

1. Civilian style "beehive" slouch hat;
2. Wide brimmed, generally dark-colored wool or fur felt slouch hat;
3. Cap (or "kepi") - Jean weave material, usually WITHOUT trim, but trim is acceptable;

Hats should have the proper sweatband, lining, ribbon, and stitching as appropriate. By "ribbon", this means the appropriate hatband and false knot made of silk or grosgrain ribbon. The edge of the brim as well as the hat band should be bound with grosgrain or silk ribbon. Trim should be limited and NO hat brass should be worn. Confederate-style forage caps are discouraged, and Union forage caps are NOT allowed.

The slouch hat is one of the most visible parts of a person's attire, and therefore should be of the highest quality. Black is the traditional color, but shades of beige, gray and brown add a nice touch of diversity to the ranks. It also allows for personal taste. A search through period photographs of Confederate soldiers will turn up very few men wearing fancy or overly decorated hats. Evidence suggests that most hats were brought directly from civilian life with very few changes made to them.

B. SHIRTS:
What to Look For: Documented civilian or military pattern in 100% cotton, wool, or domet flannel. Look for solid colors, or small woven checks or stripes.

Shirts should be made of 100% natural fibers, e.g., cotton or wool. Plaids and checks should be woven, not printed on the cloth. Basic assembly may be machine sewn, but exterior details and buttonholes shall be handsewn. Buttons shall be of appropriate size and made of glass, bone, agate or wood. ( EOG/US - page 126, EOG/CS - pages 154 & 155 ).

Shirts may have pockets as soldiers frequently requested the folks at home to add a pocket or two when making shirts.

C. JACKETS:
Ideally, we should all be wearing the same or similar type of jacket, with differing degrees of wear and tear depending upon the age of the garment. A few scattered through the ranks may be wearing an older-issue jacket or a civilian jacket, but by and large the majority of the men in ranks should look somewhat alike. (That's why they're called "uniforms.")

Jackets should be of wool jean material and of documented construction and pattern. Jackets should be fully lined. When rank insignia is worn (and many Confederate NCOs did not wear stripes), only cotton or woolen tape trim should be used, and stripes should be individually sewn directly onto the jacket sleeve. Bars and stars for officers were typically sewn directly onto the collar, not on some sort of colored backing.

What to Look For: The most common jackets for Arkansas troops in the Army of Tennessee were as follow in order of their commonality/importance:

1. Columbus Depot pattern shell jacket. Used from October 1862 through end of War.
2. Enlisted man's single-breasted frock coat (State commutation uniform, e.g., the Little Rock jackets) Used from Autumn, 1861 until December, 1862.
3. Civilian sack coat. Commonly used throughout the War.
4. Department of Alabama pattern shell jacket. Used from October, 1864 until April, 1865.

The most common jackets in use by Arkansans in the Army of the Trans-Mississippi were as follow in order of their commonality/importance:

1. 9-button shell jacket, in gray jean-wool or English "army cloth". (The Richmond Depot Type II ("RD2") jacket in jeans or English or undyed kersey is a close replica and suitable substitute for this jacket.) Used from Spring 1861 to end of War. More common in early part of war (1861-1862).
2. Arkansas State Penitentiary frock coat (also called the Little Rock frock coat). Used from Autumn, 1861 until Autumn, 1863.
3. Civilian sack coat (EOG/CS pp. 146). Common throughout the War.
4. Houston Depot jacket; used from Autumn, 1863 until end of War.
5. Peter Tait jacket, used from Autumn, 1863 until end of War.

As a fresh fish, (or a veteran volunteer) your first (next) jacket purchase should be the Columbus Depot pattern. The Columbus Arsenal stayed in operation through April 1865, and when they finally closed down they still had a little over 13,000 uniforms in stock. See Geoff Walden's web page at http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/1864/cdjacket.htm for details on this jacket type.

BUTTONS: "Block I" or "Script I" or Federal eagle on the Columbus Depot and Richmond Depot pattern jackets, wooden on the Alabama jackets. State and "CSA" button use should be very limited.

For the Columbus Depot jackets, Block I buttons, or in some cases soldiers transferred the state seal buttons from their old militia or commutation jackets to their new issue stuff. (or maybe they simply saved their old buttons for future use, and used them as replacements when a button was pulled or popped off.) Little Rock frock coats should use the large federal eagle buttons.

D. TROUSERS:
Military issue style (gray, brown, or blue-gray jean cloth weave is preferable); limited use of civilian trousers is acceptable as well. ("Trousers" or "trowsers" was a period term; however, many period documents consistently list them as "Pants.")

The Capitol Guards do not prescribe any specific or standard trousers, but we urge members to stick to a Richmond depot style foot pattern. Typically these were made with mule-ear pockets and a belt-back. They are not the same pattern or material as Federal government type sky-blue kersey trousers.

Guidelines for trousers are much more liberal than with other uniform parts, and here especially is where personal taste is allowed to influence attire. Nevertheless, any and all trousers should be made of:

• wool/cotton jean cloth; or...
• all wool twill or kersey material; or...
• heavy 100% cotton drill (nearly the same grade as tent canvas);
• all cotton jean cloth (similar to denim); or...
• linen/wool or linen/cotton mix.

Trouser colors should be dull. Woolens may be cadet gray, gray, blue, brown or black.

Trousers should not have belt loops or leg creases. There should be no stripes or piping of any kind except on officers trousers (with the exception of trousers from the Houston Depot, which often had a half-inch stripe of tape down the outer leg seams). The pockets should be side-slit or especially mule-ear. Trousers must have button flies. Either tie-backs or belt-backs are acceptable, but belt-back trousers are preferred. Buttons should be made of either bone, pewter or lacquered metal.

No zippers, back pockets, and especially no trousers "converted" from modern pants, please!

What to Look For:

1. Military Issue - Richmond Depot style - Mule ear pockets, no yoke. Back-belt with buckle. Made from jeans or cassimere for time period of Spring '62 through Winter '64. Wool kersey of the proper weight may be used for Spring '64 through Appomattox. Buttons may be bone, composition, or japanned tin of the proper style. Confederate issue wooden trowser buttons are acceptable in limited numbers after Spring '64. Hand finished top stitching and button holes.
2. Military Issue - Other Depot Styles. Side seam pockets, no yoke. Back belt with buckle, and made from jeans or cassimere. Buttons may be bone, composition, or japanned tin of the proper style. Confederate issue wooden trowser buttons are acceptable in limited numbers after Spring '64. Hand finished top stitching and button holes.
3. Civilian jean - Original patterns in gray, blue, brown or black. Hand top stitching, with hand-sewn button holes [EOG/CS - pages 125, 145, 146, 149, 152 & 153]. Buttons of bone, composition or stamped tin.
4. Civilian wool - Identified style and pattern, hand-sewn button holes. [EOG/CS - page 152].

On the practice of "blousing" of trousers: Many re-enactors tuck their trouser bottoms into their socks, a practice known as "blousing". This helped prevent ticks, insects, dust and dirt from getting up their pants legs. This was not considered stylish or "proper." However, it was practiced only on fatigue duty or on active campaign. Under no circumstances is blousing permitted during inspection or parade. In fact, the "fashion statement" of the soldiers of the day was to have the trousers jauntily cuffed up, just above the center of the shoelaces. Southern soldiers tended to be vain about their appearance, and would try to be "in-style" as much as the availability of clothing items would allow. So keep your trousers unbloused unless the situation calls for it.

E. SUSPENDERS/BRACES:
What to Look For: Civilian pattern, cotton webbing, canvas, or ticking with either buttonholes or leather tips with tin or brass buckles (no nickel-plated metal). "Braces" was a period term; however, many period sources consistently list them as "Suspenders." They should be made exclusively of period materials (cotton, canvas and especially linen). Please don't buy elastic suspenders, regardless of what the sutlers might tell you.

1. Civilian - Any type of period civilian model with tin or brass buckles. No buckles of nickel-plated metal. Any stitching should be hand sewn.
2. Canvas or Ticking - hand-stitched with hand-sewn buttonholes.

F. DRAWERS:
What to Look For: Military issue or civilian style in cotton or wool flannel (if worn). Period drawers help prevent chafing and help keep the skin clean (if washed between events). Long drawers often had ribbon ties at the ankles. Short (summer) drawers ended just below the knee, and had no ties.

1. Civilian Pattern - Cotton Osnaburg or muslin, cotton or wool flannel. Bone, glass or wood buttons with hand sewn button holes. (EOG/CS - page 154)
2. Military Pattern - Cotton Osnaburg or muslin or cotton flannel. Bone, glass or wood buttons with hand sewn button holes. (EOG/US - page 27)

Evidence suggests that soldiers rolled up their drawers with their trouser legs. Tuck the bottom of your drawers into your socks, and it will keep ticks, cooties, and other assorted critters from running up your britches leg and getting to your hide. Don't blouse your britches leg in your socks, it stretches your socks and they won't stay up.

G. SOCKS:

What to Look For: Civilian socks, particularly hand-knitted cotton or wool [EOG/CS - page 175].

For marches, be sure to wear only woolen socks, not cotton!

No hunting, hiking or athletic socks (i.e. gray or white wool with red or orange stripes around the top and so forth).

H. SHOES:
("Brogans" was a period term; however, period documents consistently list them as "Shoes.")

For adults, period boots or brogans are the only acceptable footwear. Brogans are more comfortable for walking, and cooler, although some Confederate soldiers did prefer to wear boots. Metal heel-plates will extend their life and prevent excessive wear on the leather heels. Also, cork insteps increase their comfort. Custom-made boots are an option, however due to cost they are not recommended for new re-enactors (or poverty stricken veterans).

Going barefoot is an option while in camp or at specific living history events, however, shoes and/or boots should be worn during drill and battle, both for correct uniform requirements, liability issues, and reasons of basic safety.

What to Look For: All the above being said, the first purchase should be the Federal 1855 Jefferson bootee. [EOG/US - page 191]. Either smooth or rough side out is acceptable. Then when you are able, you should consider purchasing one of the specifically Confederate types listed below.

1. Confederate Issue Shoes - Confederate issue. [EOG/CS - pages 174-175].
2. English shoes or boots - Military or civilian styles. [EOG/CS - page 174].
3. Identified civilian boots - Wellington boots have been identified. [EOG/US - page 172].

VESTS:
Vests were not issued by the quartermaster system of either side, but were privately purchased or sent from home. Wear by enlisted men is optional; and is customary for officers.

What to Look For: Period civilian or military styles. Jean, linsey-woolsey, or cotton, made of period pattern, style and construction. [EOG/CS - pages 101, 106, 113 & 114].

A. BLANKETS:
What to Look For:

1. Civilian Blankets of 100% wool or jean, should be muted earth-tones. No synthetic blends. Browns and grays are acceptable colors. Binding should be hand sewn.
2. Confederate Issue Blanket such as the "North Carolina blanket" (an English import).
3. Homemade Quilt or Coverlet - Quilts are okay, but discouraged because of their weight, and as mentioned above, once they're wet, they're derned hard to dry out in the field.
4. Captured U.S. Issue - U.S. Issue blankets of either brown or gray. [EOG/US - page 214].

B. TENTAGE:
The 6th Arkansas was equipped with Sibley tents when it mustered at Little Rock in the summer of 1861, but likely lost these during the evacuation of Bowling Green, KY in February 1862. Thereafter shelter was whatever could be had from the army supply system. The troops typically slept under the stars on campaign, and built small 4-6-man cabins when in more permanent or winter quarters.

The Army of Tennessee had little tentage during its campaigns. A large fly or two for the enlisted men (at the rate of six flies to every 100 men) would be optimal ... but sleeping under the stars was most common. "Shebangs" cobbled together from gum blankets, oil cloths, and scrap (or swiped) canvas, and brush shelters were also used. Straw and hay was rarely available for bedding. The use of a Federal-issue shelter tent is usually inappropriate (see note on use of Federal items above).

What to Look For:

1. "Shebangs" cobbled together from available canvas, oil cloths, gum blankets, natural materials, etc.
2. Confederate "issue" rain fly - Cotton canvas, with grommets of appropriate size and material. Dimensions should generally be no more than 8 ft x 12 ft.

C. GUM BLANKETS/GROUND CLOTHS:
Blanket rolls are usually wrapped in a tarred canvas oilcloth or a rubber blanket. Ponchos have that infamous neck slit that never quite seals. It may be good for wearing as a raincoat, but tends to get you wet when you cover up at night to sleep in the rain. Purchase a gum blanket or oil cloth and fasten it around the neck instead.

What to Look For

1. Confederate Issue Oil Cloth - Canvas painted with linseed oil or latex/enamel paint.
2. Captured Federal Issue - Rubber blanket or poncho. Limited use. [EOG/US - page 215].

A. HAVERSACKS:
Haversacks are for rations (food) and your mess gear only. After you carry salt pork, coffee beans, sugar, and your bread ration in there and march with it for a couple of days, you don't want to put anything delicate in your haversack. What the Skinners sell as "haversack stuffers" (housewife, toothbrush, comb, testaments, etc., really belong in your pockets or your knapsack. The haversack should hold only rations, your tin plate or canteen half, eating utensils, maybe a matchsafe. Strap or tie your tin dipper to the outside.

Also, fold and sew up your haversack strap until the top of the bag rides at or just above your waist belt (which should be at the level of your belly-button, while we're at it). It will ride a whole lot more comfortably that way.

What to Look For:

1. C.S. Issue - Bag of identified C.S. pattern. Button or buckle closure.
2. U.S. Issue - Bag of identified U.S. pattern. Tarred type with buckle and inner bag. [EOG/US - pages 199, 210 & 211].

B. CANTEENS:

What to Look For:

1. Wooden style - Specifically, the Gardner Pattern, made of cedar/cypress/cherry wood/etc. Various styles. [EOG/CS - page 209].
2. C.S. Tin Drum style - Various sizes and styles, try to find a commonly identified type. [EOG/CS - pages 210 & 211].
3. U.S. Issue (M1858 Smooth-Sided) - With or without jean or wool cover. If a U.S. canteen is chosen, select a tin, not stainless steel, smoothsided canteen. [EOG/US - pages 199, 206, 207 & 208]. Strip the sutler-supplied cover off and recover the canteen with gray or brown jean-wool.

C. CARTRIDGE BOXES:

What to Look For:

1. Pattern of 1857 or 1861 .58 caliber cartridge box and tins;
2. Documented Confederate manufactured pattern box of leather or painted canvas and tins;
3. Pattern of 1839 Box for .69 caliber weapons and tins. (This type uses the sling only; it doesn't have belt loops on the back. This is the main distinction between the M1861 pattern .69 cal. Box, which could be carried on either a sling or a belt.)
4. Enfield cartridge box and tins (IF you are armed with an Enfield);

Cartridge boxes must have the cartridge box tins appropriate for that box. Extra ammunition should be wrapped in proper packages.

D. CAP POUCHES:

What to Look For:

1. M1850 .58 pattern with regulation or shield front.
2. Documented Confederate manufactured pattern of leather or painted canvas.
3. Enfield style (IF you are armed with an Enfield and have the Enfield belt, cartridge box, and bayonet frog & scabbard).

E. BELT PLATES/FRAMES & WAIST BELTS

Belts and belt buckles are available in many styles. Most are acceptable, but limit your impression to those readily available and documented. Black, two inch leather belts fitted with a simple roller buckle [EOG/CS - pages 192 & 195] or "Georgia frame" [EOG/CS - page 190 & 195] are excellent choices. Do not use the oval CS or CSA buckles because the originals look very different from the ones sold by sutlers.

All waist belt plates are to have proper period construction (e.g. a brass stamping with lead filling, or cast brass). Use of an upside down US should be VERY limited. Waist belts should be black, russet or buff leather or painted canvas and appropriate to the buckle.

What to Look For:

1. Frame buckle. brass, either forked-tongue or the "Georgia frame" straight-tongued model;
2. Atlanta Arsenal rectangular "C.S.A", brass or copper, solid cast (with the letters slightly off-center to the left) [EOG/CS - page 195].;
3. Civilian style roller buckle belt.
4. Oval Arkansas State Militia belt plate, solid-cast brass (these were issued to the Capitol Guards and several other early-war companies; they should become scarcer and scarcer as we portray events after the summer of 1862).
5. British-import "Snake" buckle. (If you have an Enfield as well as the special Enfield cartridge box and bayonet frog and scabbard, you would have gotten this type of belt issued with them.)

F. BAYONET SCABBARDS:

The Bayonet should fit its matched weapon. The standard Confederate bayonet would be the Gaylord pattern or a Confederate copy of this style, which hangs diagonally off the left side of your belt. Enfield scabbards should be matched with Enfield rifles, and with Enfield leather gear.

G. KNAPSACKS (Optional):

Many people are making knapsacks, so it is easy to become confused about what to buy. For comfort, the "soft-pack" knapsack is the preferred item. Federal knapsacks of the 1853/55 pattern are acceptable, but specifically Confederate knapsacks are highly encouraged. As an alternative to a knapsack, you can make and use a blanket roll or bedroll.

What to Look For:

1. Federal double-bag knapsack (EOG/US - pages 212 &213).
2. CS Knapsack: Either a "Kibbler" or Mexican War pattern pack (EOG/CS - page 202), hardpack (EOG/CS - page 205) or S. Isaac & Campbell, Co knapsack (EOG/CS - page 207).

When the 6th Arkansas was first mustered in May 1861, the regiment was initially issued the U.S. Model 1822 .69 Caliber smoothbore flintlock Musket. (The M1822 is sometimes called the M1816.) The regiment used these for the first year of the War, including the Battle of Shiloh, where their brigade commander noted the difficulty that the 6th and 7th Arkansas had in getting their old flintlocks to fire because of the damp weather. Cal Collier claims in his history "First In - Last Out" that the 6th Arkansas rearmed itself at Shiloh by picking up "new Springfields" dropped by dead or fleeing Federal soldiers, but this claim is undocumented, and Grant's Army of the Tennessee was itself armed mainly with .69 caliber percussion-lock smoothbores until the fall of Vicksburg in July 1863; when they in turn rearmed themselves with new Confederate Enfield rifles from the Vicksburg ordnance stores. Local stories indicate that the Capital Guards of Company A were armed with M1841 Mississippi Rifles taken from the Little Rock Arsenal, but this is again undocumented. Inventory records for the Arsenal show only 54 Mississippi Rifles in stock at the time the Arsenal was seized, and there were 134 members of the Capital Guards. As a standing pre-War militia unit, however, the Capitol Guards maintained their own weapons and armory in the basement of the Anthony House hotel on Markham Street, and it is not unlikely that they had their own stash of M1841 rifles or commercial copies of these weapons.

Nonetheless, the standard weapon recommended for the present-day members of the Capitol Guards is the P1853 Enfield 3-banded rifle-musket in .577 caliber. These rifle-muskets were manufactured at modern industrial factories such as the Royal Small Arms Company and the London Armory Company. The Enfield quickly earned a reputation for its fine craftsmanship, ruggedness, reliability and exceptional accuracy at great distances. Also, the power of its .577 caliber Minie-ball rounds endeared it to the hearts of Confederates and Federals alike. Consequently, the Enfield became the weapon of choice in both Confederate and Union armies in all theatres. Over 400,000 were smuggled into the Confederacy alone from 1861 to 1865.

All original muskets must look new and be in proper working order. Proper modifications of reproduction weapons should include removal of all anachronistic markings, burnishing of questionable parts, replacement of barrel bands, and stamping of correct markings.

What to Look For:

1. P1853 Enfield Rifle-musket, .577 cal. Oil-finished stock. Blued finish on barrel. (ArmiSport is recommended brand; as this is the most authentic (e.g., the most easily "de-farbed") out-of-the-box reproduction. Euroarms, Navy Arms, and Parker Hale reproductions are heavier, more expensive, and require additional work to de-farb them, using original or ArmiSport parts.)
2. US M1842 Springfield or Harpers Ferry .69 cal. Smoothbore. Stock finished in boiled linseed oil. Burnished finish. (Recommended weapon if your heart is set on a pumpkin slinger. Much cheaper and more readily available than the reproduction M1822s; plus this is one of the more accurately reproduced muskets available.)
3. US M1822 Harpers Ferry or Springfield .69 cal. Smoothbore. Stock finished in boiled linseed oil. Burnished finish. (Dixie Gun Works reproduces this under the name "M1816" in both flintlock and percussion conversion. Expen$ive. An excellent reproduction (as it better well be, for the price they ask.) An alternative is to restore a "junker" original M1822 by replacing the stock, barrel, and/or missing parts.) Flintlock or percussion conversion is acceptable; the 6th Arkansas was originally armed with the flintlock version until April 1862.
4. US M1861 Rifled Musket .58 cal. Springfield. Stock finished in boiled linseed oil. Burnished finish. (Euroarms is the recommended brand for the government-issue Springfield. Better reproductions are available for the M1861 Colt Contract Special (from Colt Blackpowder Firearms, Signature Series) and the Amoskeag or L.G. & Y. contract versions (from Chattahoochie Black Powder Arms) which don't have the misfire problem which is common to the basic Springfield rifle, but these are significantly more expensive than the Euroarms. Avoid the ArmiSport M1861 if possible.)

1. Each soldier shall carry forty rounds in his cartridge box when the Company falls in at the beginning of each battle unless told otherwise.
2. Each cartridge for .58 cal. rifled muskets will have no more than 65 grains of black powder; cartridges for .69 cal. muskets will contain no more than 85 grains of black powder. No Pyrodex or smokeless powder will be used. Officer's revolvers will contain appropriate charges for the weapon. No "wonder wads" are permitted.
3. Each soldier is responsible for providing his own caps and cartridges. (Steve Shore of the Capitol Guards produces period cartridges for company events, with the proceeds being applied to acquiring additional loaner equipment for the Company. Steve's prices are $3.00 per arsenal pack of 10 cartridges.)
4. Blank cartridges should not be carried loose in the cartridge box. Proper tins or labeled packages of cartridges are required. This is a safety issue.
5. Each soldier will have at least enough caps to fire the required 40 rounds in his cartridge box.

1. To participate in any event where firearms MAY be fired, every participant shall submit to a weapons inspection. This inspection shall ensure that the weapon is in proper working order. This inspection shall require: a clean and clear bore, no loose or unsafe parts, and that the lock /safety performs in its proper manner (e.g., the lock at half-cock must be able to support the weight of the weapon when suspended by the trigger without causing the hammer to fall). Hammers shall be inspected to ensure they are centered so they strike the cone evenly and do not crush or deform the percussion caps. The nipple or cone should contain no caked powder fouling. Deficiencies found with any weapon shall be repaired or resolved before the failed weapon may be allowed back in the ranks or on the field.
2. A cartridge box inspection shall also be performed prior to the commencement of each day's activities which may include the possible firing of weapons. Each box inspected should contain at least 40 cartridges. Cartridges shall be properly constructed with no staples, penny wrappers, or foreign objects loaded in the cartridge. Cartridge boxes will have tins appropriate for the box or ammunition wrapped in proper packages.

Company mess plans will be planned and coordinated prior to an event. Members are typically responsible for their own rations and meals at an event. The formation of mess groups for shared cooking and food preparation at events is encouraged. Meals prepared and consumed in camp should whenever possible use period ration items. Generally, keeping within the below list is safe and correct.

1. Fruit and vegetables should be in season to the particular campaign area.
2. Types of meat will typically be: salt pork, slab bacon, beef or ham.
3. Year-round food staples are: corn meal, beans, peas, white rice, raw peanuts, parched corn, early (small, red) potatoes, sweet potatoes, headed carrots, onions, nuts, and flour.

This is not intended to restrict your diet at an event -- if you have an insatiable craving for a hot dog, a Big Mac, or a Buffalo Burger, please indulge yourself -- but don't do it in camp.

1. Frying pans should be made of tin or stamped steel, riveted with a stamped steel handle. Documentation shows that soldiers sometimes used canteen halves as a creative substitute for skillets with forks, slit branches or whatever available for handles. A forked tree branch over the campfire makes an excellent cooking implement for meat. A dutch oven or camp kettle used by the company mess would be correct.
2. Metal fire grates or spits are inappropriate.
3. Knives, forks and spoons must be of Civil War style, the forks are generally three-pronged, and utensils are either bone or wooden handled. (Stay away from anything stamped "stainless steel"). Original utensils are affordable and can usually be found at most flea markets, antique malls and civil war shows. Reproduction utensils can be obtained from sutlers at reenactments and by mail order.
4. Tinware & Flatware: You'll need a good stout cup and period flatware (spoon, fork and maybe a knife). You can buy a plate or a canteen half - which serves as both skillet and plate for the veteran. You might also want a peach can boiler.

Note: Enameled "speckleware" of any color is prohibited. These items were not available until the 1870s and their use is inappropriate under any circumstance. The same goes for stainless steel cups, boilers, plates, etc..

1. The Company will decide and announce prior to an event whether it will deploy in "full" or "winter camp" mode (e.g., with Sibley, common, or "A-frame" tents) or in "campaign style" (Minimal or no canvas, sleeping under the stars). For spring and summer events, as well as autumn events before cold weather sets in, we will routinely camp campaign-style.
2. Camp will be run in military fashion. Soldiers are subject only to orders from their Company officers and NCOs. Nonetheless, all members shall show the appropriate military courtesy to the officers and NCOs of the Battalion Staff and other units within the Battalion.
3. Upon arriving in camp or on-site at an event, you are expected to report to the military commander (senior company officer or NCO in camp) so that you can be added to the Company Roll.
4. If it becomes necessary to leave camp, members must notify the Captain or Orderly Sergeant, or the next in command if the military commander is not available. Always let someone know where you are.
5. There are some guidelines for general authenticity as well. Aside from our own enjoyment, when we take part in this hobby we are trying to do two things. The first is to portray to ourselves and the public the image of a Civil War soldier and his life. Next, we want to make as accurate an impression as possible so that members and others who wish to be immersed in the reenactment and really get a "feel" for the life of the typical soldier can do so. Since we spend most of our time in camp, the period nature of the camp should be maintained at all times. This includes, but is not limited to:

• Authenticity Rule #1: "If it isn't Civil War, it doesn't belong in camp." Police your areas for coke cans, cigarette butts and wrappers, potato chip bags, zip locks, modern bags, coolers, sleeping bags, powder cans, wrappers, beer bottles/cans, etc. etc. These items shouldn't be there in the first place, but still, those that show up somehow must be disposed of or hidden from view at all times!
• Other blatantly modern items should be kept out of site at all times, especially (but not limited to) the public viewing hours. It does not present a good image of us in camp if the public comes in and has to kick the beer bottles and soda cans out of the way. Nor does it look good if we are sitting around the fire with modern stuff all out in view, and the wondering public is there. If you simply must have this stuff in camp, you may wish to affiliate with another unit that enforces lesser standards.
• Period clothing should be maintained at all times during the event or reenactment. Slipping into blue jeans or sweat pants at night may ruin it for those wishing to keep the look and feel of the camp and reenactment.
• Vehicles should be removed from the camp as soon as possible after being unloaded. Vehicles should be kept away from (out of sight of) the camp at all times aside from unloading and loading before and after the event.
• Civilians and females will not share the military camp, but will set up in the designated civilian camping area.

Drill techniques will be predominantly taken from Hardee's "Tactics for Riflemen and Light Infantry" as published in the C. S. Drill Manual, dated 1861 (known today, as "Goetzle's Edition", which Hardee adapted from his 1855 manual for Rifle and Light Infantry to allow for the use of three-banded muskets) or Hardee's C. S. Drill Manual, dated 1861 (known today, as the "North Carolina Drill Manual"). This is the basic drill that all members are required to know. (By the way, this is not the little red or blue pocket book available from most sutlers at events.) Appropriate excerpts from the School of the Soldier, School of the Company, and Instructions for Skirmishers from this manual are included in the appendices to this handbook.

Ceremonial and daily camp activities (parades, memorials, inspections, security duties, etc.) will be carried out in accordance with the 1863 Regulations for the Armies of the Confederate States. Excerpts from the appropriate portions of the regulations are included in the appendices to this handbook.

Drill manuals may vary for specific events and/or unit portrayals:

• For all Army of Tennessee/Army of Mississippi/Army of Central Kentucky units as well as Arkansas troops in the Trans-Mississippi after April, 1862, Hardee's 1861 manual is the appropriate drill.
• For Early War (1861) troops in northwest Arkansas (McCulloch's and Pearce's Brigades 3rd, 4th and 5th Arkansas State Troops, 1st and 2nd Arkansas Mounted Rifles as well as Van Dorn's Army of the West prior to April 1862) Scott's Tactics is the appropriate drill manual.
• For the 3rd Arkansas Infantry in the Army of Northern Virginia and Longstreet's Corps, "Gilham's Manual for Volunteers and Militia Tactics" is the appropriate drill manual.
• For a Western Federal impression, Hardee's 1855 manual is appropriate through 1862; Casey's drill manual came into wide adoption in the Army of the Potomac in the spring of 1862 and its use gradually spread westward. Most Federal reenacting companies and battalions have standardized on Casey's drill manual.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
This is just a partial list of sources utilized in putting these guidelines and rules together. Some of the best sources to consult are the soldier's letters and diaries themselves. Hundreds have been published and thousands more repose in libraries and archives. Time spent reading them is most productive.

1. Jensen, Leslie D. "A Survey of Confederate Central Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Parts 1 and 2". Military Collector and Historian: Journal of the Company of Military Historians, Volume 41, Nos. 3 and 4, Fall and Winter 1989.
2. Beers, Henry Putney, "A Guide to the Archives of the Government of the Confederate States of America". National Archives and Records Administration. Washington, D.C.
3. Coco, Gregory A. "The Civil War Infantryman: In Camp, On the March, and on the Battlefield", Thomas Publications, Gettysburg, PA, (1997).
4. Daniel, Larry J., Soldiering in the Army of Tennessee.
5. Roberts, Bobby, and Moneyhon, Carl, Portraits of Conflict: A Photographic History of the Civil War in Arkansas (1989)