Budgerigars - AKA the "budgie"

Budgerigars, fondly known as budgies, are one of the most common first-birds of a bird owner. About 6-7 inches from head to the tip of the tail, these little birds are known for their infamous budgie chatter, which is unique to their species. Hardy, easy to tame, and come in several colors and mutations, it is no wonder these birds are so popular! Budgies can also learn how to talk and mimic, and a single bird can very easily bond to its human flock.      Budgerigars usually reach ages of 7 or 8, but with proper care can live well into their teens. They are socially friendly birds that live in flocks in the wild. Just like their crested relative the cockatiel, the budgie originates in Australia.      Budgies are also commonly referred to as parakeets. This name, however, is rather unspecific to its breed, as true parakeets are rather different in size and temperament. Budgies are only a type of parakeet. So while it is true that budgies are parakeets, parakeets are not always budgies. Feeding Your Budgie      Budgies need a very rounded diet to stay happy and healthy. Unfortunately, most budgies are not started on a diet of this kind, they are typically started on an all seed diet, which is very dangerous to your bird's health. An all-seed diet can cause problems in the liver, kidney and pancreas and ultimately cause problems such as diabetes, obesity, and fatty liver disease.      Budgies Need A Rounded, Varied Diet, Including: Pellets as the main food in the diet, with a small amount of seeds(for more information about pellets & seeds in the diet, click here) Fresh Foods, fed at least once a day. The type of fruits and veggies should be varied from day to day, as each kind provides your bird with different vitamins and minerals. (see our fresh food list) WATER WATER WATER! And this needs to be non-chlorinated, preferably human drinking water. Water should be changed no less than once a day, even if you use a water drinker. Calcium supplements, such as a mineral block and/or crushed egg shells (peel shells from a boiled egg, crush, and serve.) Cuttlebones are common, but the calcium within them is hard for your bird to absorb. Other than a wonderful chew toy, cuttlebones really have no purpose in nutrition. Make sure a mineral block does not contain added carbon or iodine. Also, your budgie might enjoy some special home-cooked meals sometimes. My all-time favorite recipe list: http://www.budgies.org/info/recipes.html Housing Your Budgie      Budgies need a cage that is at least 16in x16in x16in, this is only for a single budgie. For a pair, I recommend 18in x 20in x 24in. The rule of thumb is always the bigger the better!!! As long as the bar spacing is less than 1/2 an inch, you are safe! Don't buy a round cage or a cage with a domed roof. They are appealing to eye, but provides no safe corners for a bird to hide in. A round or domed cage is the equivalent of living in a totally circular room... not very comfortable.       A budgie needs a variety of toys, and make sure to change them around often. My budgies love things that make a lot of noise! Anything that rings or rattles is appreciated, as well as perch spinners (or anything that wraps around a perch that spins and slides!) My budgie Pablo has a perch spinner with little rattling balls at the end and he goes crazy with it! Mirrors are discouraged, some birds become so entranced with their reflection that they will do nothing else but stare at it.      Perches are also an area that does not commonly get that much attention. Birds need a variety of different perches in different sizes to exercise their feet and keep their joints healthy. When picking perches for budgies, look for the smallest sizes. For wooden perches, make sure the toes wrap around the perch without touching each other. Wooden perches should all be a different width. Your budgie should also have two or all of the following: rope perch, natural perch, cement perch. Natural perches are great for budgies to chew on and rub their beaks on, check this poisonous plants list to see if you have a tree from which you can get some branches. Make sure the branch has not been sprayed with pesticide or chemicals, and scrub it with hot water and some non-toxic cleaner before putting in the cage. Rope perches are also great because they vary in width like a natural perch, just make sure to check a rope perch frequently for wear and to cut any loose strands. If a rope perch gets really chewed, it should definitely get replaced. Cement perches are also nice, but make sure it is in a place where your bird is not constantly perching as it may cause sores if constantly used. Make sure the cement perch is for small birds. Taming and Interacting With Your Budgie      Once budgies are tame, they are great pets and grow to love people. When taming your budgie, remember that all birds are different. Most budgies, unless handfed, will need you to go very slow in the first months of the taming process. After you bring your bird home, let him adjust to his surrounding for a few days. Make sure he is comfortable, eating and drinking before you start the taming process.      Take taming slow at first, just 15 minutes during the day laying your hand inside the cage. Once your bird is comfortable with this, you can try touching him. Start with his toes or his tummy, and pet very slowly. If he tries to bite, just ignore it and wiggle your finger so he cannot take grip. Once you can touch your bird, you can begin to take him out for taming. Sometimes taking your bird out of their cage will make them less territorial and make them friendlier.      When your bird is out, take him in an enclosed room such as a bathroom. Cover mirrors and windows and close the doors. Hide the cage out of view so your bird is not tempted to fly back to it (getting your birds wings clipped by an experienced bird person will help in this process). Then let your budgie out, letting him explore on his own for a bit. Try encouraging him to step up (use a command like UP or STEP UP and press gently on your birds belly). If your bird wants to bite you, you may want to do this with a wooden dowel to teach him before asking him to perch on your finger.      Always remember to move slowly around your new bird and give him space when he needs it. Taming a budgie will take time, so be patient, persistent, and consistent with your methods. Once you have him perching, you can try a laddering exercise where you have him travel from one finger to the next. Always use to UP command consistently so your bird understands. When you want him to step off your finger, use the DOWN command. Surprisingly, birds learn these commands easily.      One thing people want to do with their new birds is grab or hold them. I must say, there is hardly anything that will make a bird more scared than a big scary hand coming behind them and grabbing them around the middle! If you ever need to catch or pick up your bird and cannot get him to perch, use a clean towel to scoop him up, not your hand. Having More Than One Budgie     Budgies are very social creatures, but with adequate attention a single bird can live very happily. However, if you feel you need to get two budgies, these birds can get along with others of their own kind very nicely. Just remember that with two budgies, it is sometimes harder to get them interested in interacting with people because they will most likely bond with each other.     When you first put two new friends together, make sure it is in a brand new cage and cage setup so nobody feels territorial. If you already have a budgie and are adding a new one, your new bird needs to be quarantined in a separate cage in a separate room for at least a month. This prevents any illnesses your new bird might be carrying from being passed onto your current bird(s). Once the month quarantine is up, you can move the new bird in with your current one.     Once your birds are in the same cage together, they may quarrel a little to figure out who is boss, but the fighting is usually only limited to a few screeches and bites. If you feel your birds truly are not getting along, especially if there is extremely violent fighting or bloodshed, separate your birds immediately (if any bloodshed occurs, talk to an avian vet ASAP).