The majority of dress shoes have an upper covering, commonly made of leather, enclosing insoles are often added for comfort or health reasons (to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe). The two exceptions are cowboy boots, which continue to sport a taller riding heel, and a brief resurgence in higher-heeled shoes for men in the 1970s(in Saturday Night Fever, John Travolta's character wears a Cuban heel of 1½" height to a stiletto heel (or spike heel) of 4" or more. The tall leather shaft of the boot allowed easy insertion of the foot with respect to the lower leg, which accentuates the appearance of calves. Decoration varied widely. Dress shoes are categorized by smooth and supple leather uppers, leather soles, and narrow sleek shape. Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather uppers, non-leather.

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