| Moab TR
The Drive (Apr 16, 1999)
Leave Early Due to Snow
Hit REI for rope and friend
Drive through the heinous snow and traffic. Get lost
near Castle Rock (idiots).
Get to Moab @ 2:30 am (left Tirpak’s at 5:30)
Find campsite @ 3:15 (Behind the Rocks area)
Drink and Hang out til 5am
Saturday
Up at 8:45
Hike and pick up other people’s trash til about 10
Preride the 13 mile course, but it’s 20 miles for us
(almost crash when brake pad goes under rim).
Very cool picture frame arch (prostitute butte).
Drink a couple beers, sit in the sun, and learn how soft
sandstone is by digging hole with beer cap.
Drive to Kane Creek Canyon.
Climb @ Ice Cream Parlor with three guys from Steamboat
Springs ("this is named Ice Cream Parlor, because its where the soft people
climb").
I lead some 5.8 crack which is nice, but a thin section
at the top spooks me (didn’t bring rps).
TR the 5.8+ and 5.8 to the left. Fun, varied climbing.
Drive further into Canyon, find camping spot. Chili,
beer, and fire.
Asleep by 11pm
Sunday
Up at 8am. Eventually head to Indian Creek.
Look at 5.7, but decide to skip due to the runout at
the beginning and generally shite looking line.
Talk to some Brits who are on Twin Cracks.
I lead some 25’ 5.9 crack. Nice and easy.
Let some guy from Boulder hop on our rope, he offers
us a TR on Supercrack later.
Head back to Twin Cracks, where Chris leads his first
5.9 in super fine style. Very nice line.
Go back to TR Supercrack.
While waiting for a turn on Supercrack, give Supercorner
a shot (on TR). I zoomed right up it, Tirpak gets about ½ way, but
tweaks his elbow. Incredible climb. Very easy for 11+/12-.
Go for Supercrack. Tirpak gets to the roof, but bails
because of his tweaked elbow. I hop on and Get about 2/3rds up before pumping
out and hanging on the rope. Stop once more to rest, then finish to the
anchors (need to work on endurance). Awesome and sustained hand crack.
Nothing like bloody wrists…
Back to the truck where we enjoy a beer and watching
the other climbers.
Hit dinner in Moab and head home.
Back in the Springs at 2am. |