Dining

Nov. 10-16

Restaurant Review Ratngs
****Excellent ***Good **Fair *Poor

The Restaurant at the Calumet is very sleek with deep banquettes and an equally impressive attached bar.

New attitude

The venue and menu are all jazzed up

By Janice Okun
News Restaurant Reviewer

Welcome to the brand new Restaurant at the Calumet. You'd hardly recognize the old place (once known as the Calumet Arts Cafe). It's very sleek and grown-up looking now with deep banquettes and even deeper red walls. The attached bar section is equally impressive.

There are more changes, too. After the place was redone, they went out and hired themselves a brand new chef. He's Davd Fiels, and he comes highly recommended from the D.C. area where he ran the well-regarded Cafe Bethesda. His menu is completely new to the Calumet and offers some interesting choices.

I liked my appetizer right off the bat. Thai Peanut Noodles and Shrimp ($5.95) was served cold and tossed with bean sprouts and red peppers. The unctuous taste of peanut butter was enlivened with just enough fiery heat to make a satisfying balance.

Another good starter was an evening special with goat cheese, wrapped in herbs and served over field lettuce. Then there was the very competently prepared Caesar Salad ($5.95) with shaved Parmesan and garlic croutons. Also excellent.

My Pan Roasted Duck Breast ($18.95) was a really well prepared dish - the duck was ever so slightly rare, the way it tastes best. And it was complemented by carefully chosen accompaniments, too. A rich sweet potato puree (terific) and piquant red cabbage. The Cassis Ginger-flavored sauce was an asset.

Special kudos to the evening special Pork Tenderloin, which was tender and juicy, and the Roast Rack of Lamb ($26.95) served with tht great sweet potato puree as well as Caponata and Feta Cheese. The Linquini and Fresh Vegetables, finished with a little balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and asiago cheese, was a clever and economical choice at under $12.

There was plenty to select from on the wine list though they were out of Zinfandel, our first choice. We went instead for the Clos Pegase Merlot, not cheap at $32.

Aftr all this good food, desserts were a bit of a letdown here. They were presented on a tray, a technique that has probably outlive it's appeal. (Things always look so embalmed.) A lot of chocolate things and some good Creme Brulee (no, make that very good). Also a frozen wonder called a Lemon Tartuffe, which is probably not unique to this house. (But it was delicious.)

Frankly, I'd rather divide another entree. The Steak au Poivre Vert, for instance, with a green peppercorn cognac sauce ($21.95), or the Yellow Fin Tuna grilled medium-rare with plum tomatoes, capers and olives.

Or a nicely priced Grilled Chicken Breast ($12.95) with Back Bean and Corn Relish and Fresh Salsa sounds mighty tempting.

The Restaurant at the Calumet
****

Where: 54 W. Chippewa St. (855-2220). New decor, new chef, new menu. This space is now devoted to a sleek sophisticated restaurant offering well prepared contemporary food. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Favorie dish: Pan Roasted Duck Breast

Needs Work: Most food is of excellent quality.

Price Range: Entrees from $11.95 include vegetable and garnish (Most entrees $18 and up)

Service: Very Good.

Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday; dinner Monday through Thursday until 9, Friday ans Saturday until 11

Healthy Choices: Grilled Atlantic Salmon, Seafood Linguini, Grilled Chicken Breast.

Wheelchair Access: Yes

Parking: On the street

Kid Appeal: Minimal

The Calumet Arts Center, is located at 56 W. Chippewa in Buffalo downtown, on the Corner of Chippewa & Franklin Streets. 716-855-2220 (main office) or 716-856-2161 (ticket & info line)

The Calumet Arts Center, & it's 4 Clubs, The Restaurant at The Calumet (just opened 9/8/2000), La Luna, The Third Room, & The Patio bar are my favorite downtown stops.

I'll be posting more info & entertainment listings regularly. Here are some recent images, & links.

Click here to view the printer-friendly version of the Restaurant menu

Click here to go to entertainment listings

Click here to goto main page



We cater private parties & banquets in any of our 3 clubs. Book our clubs for your events & festivities.



*La Luna* *The Third Room*

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