Blitzkrieg



The Blitz


Concentrated between 1941 and 1942, the GThe debris of the Cornmarket with workers returning the next morning to begin work.  The dock buildings are in the background.erman Blitz upon Liverpool was undoubtedly the most traumatic event to ever happen in the history of the city.  Bombs rained down day and night, devastating the docks, the city centre and eventually the suburbs.  The strange thing about the whole experience was the universal acceptance by the civilian population that it was something worthwhile to be endured and a badge of honour to share the same dangers and hardships as the fighting men overseas.

They were a different breed in those days and there was many a household which lost not only family members but their home as well, receiving a pittance from the government and left to fend for themselves.  Today, instead of the danger being hordes of Nazis it would be from hordes of counsellors but in those days they just got on with it as best they could. 

 Four thousand people died in the days of the Blitz and many more were injured but the harder the blows the harder was the resistance and the general good humour and community spirit against the common enemy brought them through it all.


As time went by Bombed Debris' appeared all over the city, ranging from the wholesale destruction of iconic buildings to a gap here and there in a block of houses.  They soon lost their significance and became adventure playgrounds for a whole generation of children, playing unknowingly on ground where whole families had been wiped out.  Nearly 70 years later, Bombed Debris' can still be found here and there but very few of the present generation know or care how they came about which is probably both a good thing and a bad thing.

Very few areas escaped unscathed but the area surrounding Liverpool 7 was not one of them.  The following document of  sections of each of the Kensington, Wavertree  and  Liverpool 7 areas  is a microcosm of what occurred in many neighbourhoods throughout the city.




Edge Hill- A prelude to Disaster

Prior to the middle of the 19th century, this whole area was a pleasant rural idyll of farmland and countryside.  It was in fact so pleThe opening of the Liverpool/Manchester railway --Edge Hill 1850asant that at the urging of William Gladstone himself, William Roscoe was persuaded to move his esteemed Botanical Garden from the smoky city out into the clean air of Edge Hill.  An estimation of how fast the city was expanding was that when Roscoe built his Botanic Gardens in Crown St in 1803 the site was perceived to be in a rural setting ---30 years later and his plants were suffering from pollution.  
The site he chose was a wasteland surrounding a crumbling mansion called Plumbe Hall and the whole collection was transported to its new home in 1830 much to the relief of local residents who were relieved that the plan had been chosen in preference to a proposed jail.  

The conversion of the surrounding wasteland into a public park { Wavertree Park } in 1856 incorporated the Botanic collection within its precincts and also within a walled garden, allowing all manner of exotic plants to be grown within the micro-climate and many people began to call the whole site Botanic Park.  The botanic collection was undoubtedly the focal point of the park but maps of the time show the areas which are now football pitches to have been colourful shrubberies enhanced by two small lakes.

The area was growing fast and the next few years saw the addition of a prestigious library and a reservoir {1856} and more significantly the park and its neighbouring amenities became the focal point for a wealthy bourgeoisie to build grand houses.  The whole area quickly polarised into the archetypal Victorian Utopia of wealthy middle-class homes surrounding a pleasant park and was on a par with similar squares dotted throughout London.  There was in fact a "Victoriania" which is instantly recognizable in monuments, parks and buildings and still exists in every corner of the land in various states of decay according to the value placed on them by the local councils.  They should be treasured as they are both precious and fragile and once gone can never be replaced.

The shiny new Edge Hill station,  and its massive sidings further enhanced the prestige of the growing area and the 1870's saw the neighbourhood at its zenith in terms of wealth, architecture and quality of life.  The station itself was the first train station in the world with the line running to Manchester.  Lime St Station had yet to be built but work was in hand already to tunnel through the solid sandstone into the city centre.  But not even H.G. Wells could have foreseen that it would be the railway and its Goods Yards that would one day bring Edge Hill to its knees. 

But for the time being,  in mid-Victorian times, crinolined ladies and frock-coated gents basked in the reflected glory of an Empire on which the sun never set, in which the map of the world was coloured mainly pink, God was in his heaven and all was right with the world.  

To set the seal upon the whole thing, in 1886, Wavertree Park was chosen to be the official site of The International Shipperies Exhibition which would celebrate scientific achievements from all the countries of the Empire and to open the show would be the Empress herself, Queen Victoria.

Within their ivory towers, strolls in what was in effect their own park, and euphoric self-congratulation, it was largely unnoticed by the Victorian bourgeoisie that Liverpool was still expanding outwards from the river and the sylvan suburbia of Edge Hill was fast becoming surrounded by cheap andThe Liverpool to Manchester tunnel cheerful housing for the masses.  The Gas Works built in 1854 was a give-away to just how many houses were planned.  A glance at successive maps of the time would show clearly, massive incursions into the countryside and decade after decade would see a civic glacier inexorably absorbing villages and countryside wholesale until a map of 1885 would show that the tide of houses had washed up as far as Penny Lane ----at the time considered to be almost another town.  By the time the Queen came to town, she was visiting a way of life under siege.

And that's how it remained for the next half-century ----there was nowhere left to build and the huge conglomeration of seething humanity worked and played, they went to the pub and they went to the parks, those who had jobs worked long hours and those who did not struggled along.  

The once Victorian bastion surrounding the park went into a steady decline and mansions became apartments and by 1940 Edge Hill had levelled out into a huge working-class area with row upon row of terraced, two-up and two-down houses on all sides of the railway station.  The railway station and Goods Depot was an ant-heap of industry and the inland equivalent of the docks.  The industry of the Victorians lived on a century later and to all intents and purposes would continue to do so for another hundred years  but nobody  could ever have anticipated the devastation that would rain down from Wellsian machines undreamed of  by Disraeli and Gladstone.

When the blow came it was almost as if it was to some grand design formulated years ago to eradicate anything of any worth, be it art, architecture or industry and at that time the power of the Nazis was such that there were some who believed it to be almost credible.
 



The Reckoning


The Victoria Monument stands unscathed in the midst of dereliction looking down towards Lord St.




The bombing of Liverpool  began in May 1941 and continued without cease until January 1942.  The May Blitz has passed into  history The Egyptian room before the bombs fell. as a devastating blow which changed the face of the city forever.  Beginning on May 1st, wave after wave of  German bombers attacked the city and on the 3rd May at 10.30 a.m. an armada of 500 Dorniers, Heinkels and Stukas dropped a rain of bombs over the city centre, attacking the docks, the business area and the town centre.  

The S.S. Malakand was destroyed at anchor in Huskisson dock, The Custom House building damaged, Lewis's, Blacklers and Bunneys severely knocked about and  Lord St had hardly a building left standing.  

Sixteen German planes were knocked out of the sky in return but back they came the next day and the next day and for seven  whole days of the first week in May the attacks were ceaseless.  Liverpool could not sustain such damage for much longer but neither could the Luftwaffe maintain such a level of aggression and the number  of planes gradually lessened in numbers after the initial onslaught.  The attacks never ceased after that but they never reached the ferocity of the May Blitz.

The Museum was severely damaged and the picture on the left illustrates how the Egyptian room appeared before the bomb damage.  The same room after a bomb struck illustrates clearly the damage caused.  The two black, Egyptian deities standing guard to the right and left of the stairway can now be seen in the new World Museum.  Once again they are at the foot of a staircase in the vestibule and the cracks and fissures caused by the bomb can still be seen.  The name of the famed Egyptologist Belzoni is carved into the side of one of the figures.

The Liverpool Museum's took years to recover from the war damage and many of the items were placed in storage and have remained so until this day.  The work of the Conservation Centre is going a long way to restoring the irreplaceable items and artifacts which have been hidden from the public gaze for over half -a-century are now seeing the light of dayy.



Just as the Luftwaffe were targeting Liverpool for special attention, so it was that Lord Haw Haw did the same durinThe Egyptian room after the bombingg his propaganda exercises.  

' There are riots in Scotland road and the South of Liverpool.  people are marching around waving white flags in Scotland road, shouting for peace'.  


He knew it was lies and we knew it was lies and if anything it stiffened resolve.

The Railway and Goods Depot and massive Gas Works were a magnet for the Luftwaffe pilots, easy to spot from the air and a worthwhile target, so Edge Hill was pounded on a regular basis.  The peripheral damage was unavoidable and inevitable for the houses, shops and schools clustered closely around the main targets.  A number of public shelters sprang up but most had a brick shelter at the bottom of the yard and these undoubtedly saved many lives.

Emphasising just how random some of the damage could be, the Conservatory in Botanic gardens received a direct hit even though it was clearly within a rural area.  This was the beginning of a downward spiral from which the park has yet to recover.  Strangely, the Palm House in Sefton Park also came in for some heavy damage and although it was never hit directly, a bomb landed close enough to shatter every window in the glasshouse.  Here also, the damage caused the historic Palm House to decline and it is only in the 1990's that it has been restored to some of its former glory.

Most streets had a house destroyed or a shop shattered or a massive hole in the road but Bective Street was particularly unlucky when high explosive fell upon a shelter ----2 people were killed and 9 were injured.

Webster Road school was unusual in that it had its own swimming pool in the basement.  This was boarded over and the bodies of the victims from the surrounding areas were laid out on the planks.  Sections of a generation that had attended the school and learned to swim in the pool were now laid in rows awaiting identification ---- a gardener from Newsham Park, Len Jones, had the unenviable task of laying out the bodies for identification and it was not uncommon to come across a friend or neighbour who had been killed.

In November 1941, the 56th air-raid took place causing a tragedy which Churchill described as;
                                                         
" The worst single incident of the war "


Land mines were if anything more to be feared than the bombs screaming down ----- floating down on silken and silent parachutes, their silent and graceful fall to earth belied the havoc they caused on landing.  It was one of these silent harbingers of doom which landed directly upon the Junior Technical School of Durning Road ( sometimes called Clint Road School ) and it was just bad luck that the place was full.  Just a few minutes earlier two trams had disembarked their passengers here and the whole incident seems to be one of those nightmare scenarios where everything combined to cause the maximum casualties.  During the air-raid everyone sheBlackout warningltered in the school basement which was the worst place they could have been in the circumstances ----the mine shattered the whole building which toppled down into the basement below, trapping those who had not died instantly and to make things worse the boilers burst erupting into cauldrons of steam and hot-water.  

The authorities managed to rescue 136 souls from the debris but a further 180 died in the basement beneath tons of rubble.  They were left where they had died within the horrific confines of the basement, the whole area was sealed over and they remain there to this day within their concrete tomb. There is a plaque listing the names of those who died in the nearby St. Cyprian's Church. The remainder of those who died in the May blitz are buried in a long, mass grave in Anfield cemetery.



To put things into perspective ---as dreadful as all these things were in Liverpool and other British cities, it comes as quite a shock to visit cities in Germany and realise that they suffered far worse damage from which they are recovering just as slowly.  The medieval town of Cologne is barely recognisable from the previously beautiful place it once was.  The bridges across the Rhine were nothing but twisted masses of metal and the heart of the old town vanished completely leaving just here and there an ancient statue and building barely visible in the rubble.  The magnificent medieval Cologne Cathedral was struck several times but survived due to its monolithic construction.  The damage is still being attended to today but the repairs are purely functional and are clearly visible.  As in many British cities including Liverpool, the buildings which have replaced the bombed ones do not bear comparison to what went before.

As for Berlin, they also have a "St. Lukes" and a new city is slowly emerging from the rubble but very little remains of what was once a magnificent European capital.  Ironically, the Reichstag has been restored by an English architect and there are some architectural gems intact in what was East Berlin but overall Berlin was razed to the ground.  The Chancellery which was once the heartbeat of the Reich remains just as it was after the bombing and the suspicion lingers that nobody quite knows whether it should be maintained as a warning and a reminder or erased and rebuilt and there are many other buildings throughout the city which beg the same question.  The one or two Jewish places of worship still standing have not only war damage to attend to but also the depradations of KrystallNacht ------whether any of them will be restored is doubtful but hope lives eternal.

 

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The tragedy of Durning road is Drawings beneath the Botanic park bunker further compounded by the existence of an almost impregnable shelter just a short distance away within the boundaries of Botanic Park.  Quite how this massive system was built without anyone taking note is difficult to ascertain and who it was built for is even more mysterious because it doesn't appear to have been known about by the general public in the area.

There remains a mystery about the massive bunker complex hidden beneath the grass in the shadow of the art-deco Littlewoods Building ---there's no doubt that it was used but it was too far away from housing and transport to be for the general population.  

The land allegedly belongs to the Home Office which may give some clues but then and now it is extremely well camouflaged and the entrance is accessible only via a manhole which is also g
rassed over.  




Once inside, the complex is a labyrinth of concrete running the full length of the Littlewoods building and couDrawings beneath bunker comlex Botanic Parkld have sheltered many hundreds of people.  The proof that it was used are the several drawings on the walls which are likenesses of the friends and colleagues of the artist, some wearing tin-hats and others in obviously 40's clothing.  And there they are now, slowly mouldering away on the dripping walls of this huge complex more in keeping with something emanating from cold-war paranoia.

The artist is quite skilled and the qua
lity of the drawings done in cold, wet conditions suggests that in reasonable conditions the artist ( man or woman ) would have been an accomplished painter.

To date, the drawings are a mystery although there was a letter in the Echo some time ago claiming the artist was Canadian.






  But not everything was depressing durinDrawings within Botanic bunker complexg the blitz years and apart from the general camaraderie it was little things like Jane and her dog Fritz, ironically a German sausage-dog ( Dachsund ) , who brightened people's lives in the Daily Mirror.  It's amazing how cartoons no matter how simple can become symbolic of a life that's far brighter in other circumstances and Jane continued to be popular throughout the war and beyond.  


Churchill christened Jane "Britain's secret weapon" and the first British armoured vehicle landing on D.Day carried a portrait of Jane painted on the side.  There was also the tal
e of a British submarine which had been damaged and in danger of sinking and the crew asked the captain could they have a last look at his pictures of Jane which for some strange reason he kept locked in his safe.  




ThJane and Fritze story had a happy ending as the sub limped home and Jane's legend expanded accordingly.  In every cartoon Jane invariably ended up in a state of undress but until 1944 she had never revealed all.  The Normandy campaign inspired her to go naked for once and servicemen everywhere rejoiced that she had "given her all for England".

Jane's real name was Christabel Leighton-Porter and apart from having no inhibitions about shedding her clothes she was quite posh and also astonished at her own popularity.  After the war she took the show  on the road and appeared all over the country in the Jane Show .  

One of the venues was the Pavilion in Lodge Lane where the 100% male audience was augmented by a host of small boys who had crept in unseen.  They were all doomed to disappointment as unknown to them naked actors and actresses were not allowed to move about on the stage in those days so the show consisted of a number of "tableaux" .  The curtain would go back and there would be Jane and her pals in an artistic pose as still as statues until the curtain went down in readiness for the next "tableaux".  It was straight out of the Victorian musical hall era and just as boring { or so I was told } but Jane had "done her bit" both for the troops and the Daily Mirror.






A Tale of Two Churches

Our Lady and St. Nicholas Church


St. Nicholas bomb damage 1942  
Our Lady and St Nicholas is the parish church of Liverpool and often called the Sailor's Church.  There has been a church on the site since the 14th century and when the first church was here the waters of the Mersey lapped at the surrounding walls when the tide was in and revealed a sandy beach when the tide receded. 

 
In the latter years, the church has suffered two major disasters ---the first was in 1810 when the spire collapsed and killed 22 parishioners.  It was the worst luck imaginable that the spire crumbled just when people were gathering for morning service and even worse that many of them were children from Moorfields, Old Church school in Chapel St.  The fates conspired that day and the result was a  major tragedy. 






Herdman's St.Nicholas church in 1856

The church was restored in 1814 with a design by Thomas Harrison of Chester producing a beautifully filigreed stone lantern replacing the fallen spire, topped by a golden weathervane in the shape of a sailing ship representing the shipwrecked S.S. Donnelly. 

The second disaster to strike the church was a direct hit by a German bomb during the firestorm of the May blitz which caused extensive damage requiring major rebuilding work.
Today the church and its gardens are a haven of peace in the city centre and on a sunny day every available space is filled by office workers during their lunch hour.

The addition of Tom Murphy's evocative statue commemorating the blitz is a fitting memorial to the bombing throughout the city.  The statue is in the form of a tableau with a staircase as a centrepiece, a mother on the bottom rung appealing to her young son flying a toy Spitfire on the top, to come down to the safety of the cellar.







St Lukes Church

St Lukes suffered appalling damage during the May blitz in a similar incident to St. Nicholas church.  Unlike the latter, it was never rebuilt but remains a mute reminder of the war years.  There is a bombed-St Lukes 1829out church in the centre of Berlin, the Kaiser Wilhem Gedachtniskirche which serves much the same purpose, although it is not nearly as pretty as St. Lukes.  Just like St. Nicholas, the church and gardens are a peaceful and colourful haven in the city centre especially in summertime when the gardens are full of colour.

I was once working in the gardens in the summertime of the late 80's when a young German girl approached and asked why there was no centre to the building and it was just a shell.  When I explained that it was bombed during the war ------- she asked "Who by".

 
I suppose such ignorance could be thought of as a bad thing but then again it was an indication of how the war years were fading into history and of little account to a younger generation.

St. Lukes remains a monument to the war years and is also being utilised as a place of remembrance to other causes.  There is a memorial to the immigrants from the Irish Famine which from a social point of view not only had a great bearing upon Irish fortunes but also those of the city of Liverpool

 

 

 

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Strange Decisions



The number of iconic buildings  damaged or destroyed by the blitz is legion and includes, dock buildings, much loved turn-of-the-cenThe old Custom House tury department stores, hospitals and churches.  Most of the more important buildings were restored where applicable but one notable exception was the Custom House which was badly damaged and subsequently demolished.  

Built in 1839, around the same time as St. Georges Hall, the Custom House was a magnificent building and the consensus of opinion was that it was entirely restorable but the decision was made to demolish it and that's exactly what happened.  

Even in its days of imitating a Roman ruin the Custom House had a certain style and was certainly preferable to the deep hole left in its place which remained for decades surrounded by hoardings.   The sketch on the right shows the Custom House and in the foreground is the Albert Dock with the Pump House chimney.  

The extensive building program in 2008 retains the foreground as completely identifiable but the background where the Custom House stands has altered so much that it makes sketches such as this one invaluable when identifying what stood there in days gone by.




 

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As an afterthought, the The Sailors Home magnificent Sailor's Home was demolished at about the same time and while there may have been a certain flawed logic in demolishing the Custom House to get rid of the beautiful and historical Sailor's Home was complete lunacy.  There is a Custom House in Dublin and a walk along the banks of the Liffey reveals an almost identical building to the one that Liverpool boasted.

The Sailor's Home stood just a few hundred yards away from the Custom House and throughout months of  firestorms and bombs emerged virtually unscathed.  The Sailor's Home was just what it said it was and many seafarers over the years had found a bed within the building which replicated a ship inside the building with cast-iron rails on each floor looking for all the world like a ship's rail.  Built by John Cunningham in 1848, the exterior was Victorian Gothic with a beautifully ornate entrance of Liver Birds and city crests and the flags of all nations flew overhead.  

The Sailor's Home was also a recruiting centre when the Confederacy required sailors for the many ships which sailed from Liverpool during the American Civil war and many a ship such as the Alabama was crewed by sailors drawn from the Sailor's Home.

Just what the city councillors were thinking of to allow the demolition of such an historic and unique building defies logic but in 1973, after welcoming seamen from all over the world throughout the Victorian years { sailors were still using the building in the late 60's } and surviving the blitz, an absolute gem was tossed away for no reason ascertainable then or now.  To add insult to injury, the magnificent ornamental entrance made of  iron, with gilded Liver Birds interspersed with ropes, medallions, crests and all manner of maritime detail actually ended up in a scrapyard.  Inexplicably, the frontage found it's way to Birmingham City Council who refuse to relinquish it ----- and who can blame them.
Postscript; On a trip to Cologne in 2008, it was obvious that bombing of their city is just as emotive to the German citizens as it is to Liverpudlians. Several inhabitants of Cologne mildly berated us for the extensive damage to their city ----they had obviously never been to Liverpool.

 

 

 

 

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