Home > Crags > Texas > Reimer's Ranch
Reimer's Ranch
Reimer's Ranch is located about 50km west of the city of Austin and is arguably the cities premier sport climbing destination. A river (can't remember the name!) has cut into the limestone bedrock to produce a variety of walls up to about 15m in height, with superb shade from the surrounding trees and plenty of water to splash about in when it gets too hot.
Summers in Austin get *damn* hot (I was there in mid April - early Spring - and the temperature was reaching 33°C during the day!), so the shade and swimming certainly make this a good destination. In addition, the cruisy 30 second access, plethora of bolts and multitide of lower offs makes this a great place to tick a lot of routes in a day.
The crag is accessed via a shallow, square cut gully, with climbing on the walls on both sides of the gully where it reaches the main river.
The guide for the area is the "Texas Limestone II" guide book.
Right Hand Side
The Sex Cave
The first cliff you come to, about 50m from the carpark. Most of the climbs head up the higher arching wall, above the huge cave at ground level. Grades range from 5.11 (about 20) through to 5.13 (27) or so.
Spider Grind 8m 20/21 (5.11)
A nice little pump, quite reminiscent of "Eat My Spinning Blades of Steel" at The Grotto in Nowra. 4 FHs to single FH and maillon lower off (or top out).
Dead Cat Wall
Located about 150m further on past the Sex Cave. This 12m wall is extremely popular, and justifiably so: the routes are all of a similar, moderate grade (5.8 to 5.11-) and the wall offers a really pleasant variety of moves.
Bolted Like Mex 12m 18 (5.10)
A rather runout route (hence the name), with some nasty fall potential before the first FH (there's a nice big tree to catch you). Some nice moves past the first FH, then increasingly easy past the second and on up to the double chain lower off.
Reimerama 12m 16 (5.10-)
A pleasant little route with one hard move past the first FH (solid grade 16), then easily (no harder than grade 14) past 3 more FHs to the double chain lower off.
Almost Nothing To It (AKA "Tree") 12m 16 (5.9)
A steepish little number, with one hard move past the first FH, then juggier and steeper past another 2 FHs to the double chain lower off.
?? 12m 15 (5.9)
Located towards the left hand end of the wall proper (but before the bulging orange buttress). A good little warm up route, with one thin move past the first FH then easy and juggy past another 2 FHs to the double chain lower off.
Tit for Tom Area
Located another 75m or so past Dead Cat Wall is the Tit for Tom Area, which offers the following gem.
T-Roofic 15m 19 (5.10+)
A ridiculously steep and juggy classic, with some technical moves to get started and then some big reaches between monster jugs to the top. Apparently the final move past the anchors is the crux, but I could reach them from underneath the final little roof so skipped it! 5 FHs to double chain lower off.
Left Hand Side
Strawberry Shortcake Wall
A short but fun wall with some good little boulder problem routes.
?? 8m 18 (5.10)
The second last route on the wall, with a prominent white, stubby stalactite at half height. Technical moves past 2 FHs then easy past the third to the double chain lower off. Good stuff!
?? 8m 17 (5.10)
The last route on the wall. Some reachy but fairly juggy moves past 2 FHs, then easily past a third to the double chain lower off.
Dr Seuss Wall
Located about 10m right of the previous area, just on the other side of the pile of rubble.
Smitten Psycho 10m 17 (5.9)
A slippery little number, just right of the obvious water streak. A rather exasperating move off the ground (past the first FH), leads to pleasant juggy climbing up the tufa and through the small roof. 3 FHs to double chain lower off.
Prototype Wall
Continues on from Dr Seuss Wall.
8 Flake 15m 15 (5.8)
An excellent little route up the obvious left facing flake. Monster jugs up the flake, then a delicate series of moves right to the incipient right facing flake higher up. 5 FHs to a double chain and double maillon lower off (shared with the climb to the right).
Prototype 15m 19 (5.10+)
Another excellent and sustained route 15m right of the previous climb. Easy moves on jugs through the steep bulge, then an awkward little move to gain the "bridge" at half height. From here up the climbing becomes quite sustained, with a bit of a stance at the cave near the top (good hands but poor feet). The clipping holds for the anchors suck, so don't waste too much energy trying to get comfortable! 5 FHs to double chain lower off.
Home > Crags > Texas > Reimer's Ranch
Get your own Free Home Page