The Ultimate Gran Turismo Guide
The Ultimate Gran Turismo Guide
Jaz Rignall has long since proclaimed himself the ultimate Gran Turismo master. So we thought it was high time for him to put his money where his mouth is and give us the scoop on how to get the most out of this game. Here’s his guide to better driving…
STARTING
OFF
Gran Turismo is an incredible racing
game. However, be warned -- it's not like any other racer. It
takes time and effort to get used
to the ultra-realistic handling, so be prepared to persevere.
The quick arcade mode is a great
way to get used to the basic handling properties of the cars,
particularly if you pick "racing
mode" rather than the overly-arcadey "drift". The cars available
are
nice and slow and really enable
you to get the general feel and understanding of the physics. Once
you can win races regularly in arcade mode, you're ready for Gran
Turismo!
A good rule of thumb is don't
immediately buy a powerful rear wheel drive car -- they're the
most
difficult to drive, and if you're
a novice you'll be spinning out on every corner. This can be
really
frustrating, so instead, choose
a 4WD (four wheel drive) or FF (front engine, front wheel drive),
since
these cars are much more forgiving
and easier to drive.
THE FASTEST WAY TO WIN AND
EARN CASH
Here's the quickest way to win
all the races with the least amount of cars and thus earn the
most
amount of money to spend on the
best cars.
Go and earn the B license, then buy a used Honda Prelude and win the Sunday Cup GT race. Sell both the Prelude and the Demio A-Spec that you win, buy an '89 Nissan GT-R (best power-to-weight ratio of all the Skylines) and spend the rest of the money you have on a muffler, hard roll bars and tuned ROM (and anything else you can afford). Enter and win the 4WD Event Race. Sell the car you win and pour your money into fully modifying the Nissan GT-R. SS racing tires, the rest of the suspension modifications and intercooler should make the car competitive enough to win the Clubman Cup. Just don't yet go for a turbo stage tune -- wait until you can afford a stage IV tune. Assuming you're able to win the Clubman Cup (if you can't, keep trying -- use the cash you win to keep modifying your car until you do), sell the Z28 Camaro 30th Anniversary Edition. Now go and get your A license.
You should be able to completely
finish tuning the Nissan GT-R by buying everything available,
including the all-important weight
reduction -- don't buy the racing body, though. Enter the
Japanese
Vs US Event race. Win this and
you get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition -- the best all-round car
in the game. If you're
unlucky, you'll get the Chrysler Viper GTS-R, a brilliant car, but you have
to be a great
driver to get the best out of it. If you win the FTO, select this and enter
and win the GT Cup and
(after getting your International
A license), the GT World Cup. If not, use the Nissan GT-R. Now
you should be getting
rich.
Now compete in the Mega Event race
and sell the Toyota Soarer that you win. Buy the Viper RT/10
(or GTS if you like it better)
and enter the Normal Race. It's fairly easy to win with this car, thanks
to
its huge power.
Use the Nissan GT-R to win the
tuned race (with 926 hp, you should be able to win this with
ease).
Now you should be absolutely loaded
up with cash.
Use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition to win the Japanese Vs British race (or Skyline, if you
haven't
won an FTO). If you won a Viper
GTS-R, or the Cerbera Limited Edition, use either of those to
win
the US Vs British race and thus
complete the international race series. If you're really unlucky
and
win neither of those, tune your
normal Viper RT/10 (or GTS) to the max and use that. Use the
Viper
GTS-R (RT/10 or GTS, whichever
you've got) to win the FR Class race and buy an FTO GP-R
Version, which you should then
fully modify (except for the racing body, which is optional). Use this
to win the FF and
Lightweight Class races and you're set for the last three
challenges.
The two Stage 11 races (both take
about 40-50 minutes) can be won with the cars you have -- the
Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition
is good for the Racing Class, and the Nissan GT-R for the Tuned
Class. The Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition is tailor made for the Valley 300 -- but you can slap a
racing body onto the Skyline and
it does just as well (it just requires more concentration). Just
be
prepared to put in about an hour
and 40 minutes of racing, 'cos that's how long the race takes
(yikes!).
And that's it. By the time you've
completed all those races you should have way, way over
100,000,000 and can buy anything
you want. So spend! Spend! Spend! And have fun playing with the
cars on the Machine Test course,
or just keep on racing and earning all those cool prize cars
you
missed!
BEST CARS FOR EACH RACE
SUNDAY
CUP
Pretty much anything that's tuned
will smoke the sad vehicular slugs that make up this field.
CLUBMAN
CUP
As long as your car has over 300
hp and good suspension modifications, you'll win with ease.
GT
CUP
A fully-tuned car is what you need
to win this one. Any full-spec Nissan GT-R is a good pick, even
though it's really too powerful
for these courses. But who cares if your racing is a little ragged
when
you can blow the competition away
with brute force.
WORLD GT
CUP
Like the previous race, a fully-tuned
car that weighs less than 2500 lbs and sports more than 525 hp
is
required to win this. So that means
any of the "big five" -- Mazda RX-7, Toyota Supra, Mitsubishi
GTO, Honda NSX or Nissan Skyline
GT-R. However, the Mitsubishi is a bit of a lard-mobile, so
it's
slow on the twisty courses. The
Mazda and Toyota, due to the massive power being delivered to
their
rear wheels only, need an experienced
driver to really get the best out of them. The light weight of
the gives it blistering
acceleration and top end -- although like the Mazda and Toyota, its rear
wheel drive
means it's easy to spin out on
the twisty bits. The 4WD of the Nissan makes it an excellent
all-rounder. Once you get more
skillful, you should be able to win the race with other, less
powerful
cars (which is actually more fun
and requires much better racing ability than competing with a
super-powered car).
FF
RACE
The Mitsubishi FTO GP-R is the
best car for this class, although both the Honda Prelude SiR
and
Honda Integra R are just as fun
to drive and give it a good run for its money. The Honda Civic
93
3Door Si and Mitsubishi Cyborg
are less powerful, but are still competitive thanks to their light
weight.
FR
RACE
The Mazda RX-7 and Toyota Supra
are both excellent for this. The Honda NSX would be too -- but
it can't enter this
race because it has a mid engine. A tuned Viper is also a great laugh which,
thanks to its
enormous tires, has copious grip and very good handling, and the lightweight
TVRs are also fun. In
the non-exotic group, the Toyota
MR2, Nissan Sil Eighty and Nissan '88 Silvia 1800 K's are
fun drivers. The
Mazda Eunos and Toyota Trueno are also a hoot -- both are underpowered, but
their light
weight makes them a blast to
drive.
4WD
RACE
Once again the ominous Nissan GT-R
rules the roost here. The Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition is
less powerful, but
is easier to drive. The Subaru Impreza Rally Edition is also a good one,
although its lack
of top end makes it a bit annoying
to drive on the straight-aways (because it hits the rev limiter in
top gear if you don't
fiddle with its setup). But this is somewhat unfair considering the
competition are
driving non-racing cars. So if
you want a good challenge, less powerful, non-racing cars that are
also great fun on
this course are the Subaru Impreza ('96 Sedan and Type R), Mitsubishi Lancer
(III and IV),
Nissan GTi-R and Toyota Celica GT-4.
LIGHTWEIGHT
The Mitsubishi FTO GP-R Version
is the vehicle of choice here. But for high comedy value fun
driving, race tune the Mazda Demio
A-Spec. With a measly 211 hp under the hood, but weighing in
at a featherlight
1408 lb, it's like driving a souped-up shopping kart. And it also happily
corners on two
wheels (indeed, once you get skillful
enough, you can actually drive some distance with the car
balanced on two wheels!), which
makes it great fun to drive. The Mazda Eunos, Mitsubishi Cyborg
R,
Honda Civic 93 3Door Si and Toyota
Starlet are the final choices in this category. They're not as
fast
as the FTO, but are all a total
laugh to race with.
US Vs
JAPANESE
The Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition
destroys the competition in this race, thanks to high power and
4WD. But if you want variety, any
of the race-converted "big five" work here, and a fully-tuned
Viper GTS-R offers
laughs a-plenty if lurid tail slides are your thing. JAPANESE Vs
BRITISH
Like the above, the Mitsubishi
FTO Limited Edition rocks. Any of the "big five" are competitive. If
it's
a British racer you're after, there's
nothing better than a race-tuned Cerbera -- although its huge
rear-wheel power and super-light
weight makes racing an oversteer spectacular (the back spins
out
when the power is poured on too
early). Once you win it, the Cerbera Limited Edition is
absolutely
fantastic -- when you learn how
to drive it properly, you can corner on two wheels while tail
sliding,
under full acceleration.
Brilliant!
BRITISH Vs
US
The Viper GTS-R is king for this
one, although the Cerbera (fully tuned with racing body) is a
really
good alternative. Again, just be
careful with the throttle -- both cars are very powerful and
lightweight and tend
to oversteer.
MEGA
Power and speed are the keys to
this race. Any fully-tuned, high-spec Mazda RX-7, Toyota Supra
RZ, Nissan GT-R,
Honda NSX or Mitsubishi GTO will win this with ease. The Viper and TVRs
are also
winners here too.
NORMAL
The best car for this series is
the Viper RT/10. Marginally lighter than the Viper GTS and
producing
the same ps, this car smokes everything
-- including the other killer car in this class, the NSX Type
S-Zero. The only thing that's tricky
is initially learning to drive the Viper -- once you've mastered
it,
you won't have any problems winning
this series. The only other car that is clearly better than the
competition is the Nissan 400 R
that you earn by winning all the gold medals in the international
A
license test. If you want a challenge,
any TVR, RX-7 or Subaru Impreza can also win, but only if
you're a great racer.
TUNED
This is a hard race, since you're
up against some very powerful, medium weight cars. A 4WD
rally-style car (Impreza or Lancer)
makes a lot of sense for this, but all of them tend to lose out on
the high speed courses
to cars like the Toyota Supra, Nissan GT-R and Honda NSX. A GT-R
sporting every tuning
feature except the racing conversion is a guaranteed winner -- it's difficult
to drive on
some of the tighter courses, but
its huge power advantage and 4WD makes it a formidable
car.
VALLEY
300
Here's where the going gets really
tough: a 300 mile, 60-lap race of the Grand Valley Speedway.
It's
certainly a test of endurance --
rather than skill, since the computer cars tend to drive
conservatively.
The FTO Limited Edition racing
car is great for this (which you should have won long before you
try
this race). Its perfect balance
of medium weight and high power coupled with 4WD gives it
supreme
handling and makes it a really
easy car to race -- it's plenty forgiving if your concentration starts
to
lapse. It also has good top speed,
and with reasonably fast, consistent racing it's easy to build up
a
huge margin between you and the
second-placed car and ensure you finish first by miles.
STAGE 11
RACING
Another massive race, this one
weighing in at around 50 minutes. Again the FTO LM is ideal for
this
-- it's the best all-round car
in the game. And again, steady and consistent racing is the key to
success.
If you want variety, any light/medium
weight 4WD car is ideal for this rally-style course.
STAGE 11
TUNED
An overpowered GT-R is ideal for
this. The problem is that it wears its tires out incredibly quickly,
so
expect to be pulling into the pits
every 15-19 laps for new rubber. Despite that, the GT-R is still king
of this one, since
its combination of 4WD and immense power blows away the opposition and
enables you to build
up a huge gap between you and the second-placed AI driver.
REFERENCE
MOST POWERFUL
CAR
A race tuned Nissan GT-R Vspec
has peak power of 941 hp. This car is also the most powerful
4WD
vehicle
MOST POWERFUL FRONT WHEEL
DRIVE CAR
A race-tuned Honda Prelude SiR
is rated 378 hp
MOST POWERFUL REAR WHEEL
DRIVE CAR
A race tuned Toyota Supra RZ spanks
out 910 hp
MOST POWERFUL LIGHTWEIGHT
CAR
A race tuned Mitsubishi FTO GP-R
Version is rated 364 hp
LIGHTEST FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
A race tuned Mazda Demio A-Spec
is 1210 lb
LIGHTEST REAR WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
A race tuned Toyota Trueno Apex
is 1364 lb
LIGHTEST FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
A race tuned Nissan GTi-R and Subaru
'96 WRX Sti III (that you win in the Normal race) both
weigh 1935
lb
HEAVIEST FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
A Honda Accord Wagon SiR is a lardass
3196 lb
HEAVIEST REAR WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
An Aston Martin DB7 Volante is
a lumbering 4133 lb
HEAVIEST FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
CAR
A Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo rolls
in at 3769 lb
FASTEST
CAR
A race tuned Mitsubishi GTO MR
can be tweaked to go way over 270 mph
MOST POWERFUL STOCK
CAR
A Viper RT/10 (Viper GTS has the
same hp, but is slightly heavier)
BEST POWER-TO-WEIGHT
RATIO
A TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (581
hp, 1984 lb)
BEST ALL
ROUNDER
AN FTO Limited Edition combines
power, reasonably light weight, 4WD and impressive top speed
to devastating
effect
WIN ALL THE
CARS
Here are the bonus cars you get
for winning each championship. The GT races each have one car
to
win, except the Gold League Cup.
All the event races have two different cars to win. We've tried
to
get to the bottom of how to win
the different cars, but so far it seems random. Most of the cars
are
available in multiple
colors.
SUNDAY
CUP
Mazda Demio A-Spec
Color: Grey
CLUBMAN
CUP
Chevrolet Z28 Camaro 30th Anniversary
Edition
Color: White with orange
stripes
GT
CUP
Toyota Chaser Limited
Edition
Color: Black
GT WORLD
CUP
Opens up the GT HiFi mode, a time
trial mode that enables the player to race the Clubman Stage
R5, Special Stage
R5 and Special Stage R11 in hi-res. Which looks incredible.
FF
RACE
Honda CRX EF-8 SiR
Colors: Yellow, black or
purple
Toyota Celica SSII
Colors: Yellow, green or
purple
FR
RACE
Nissan 'Q's 1800
Colors: Yellow or
blue
Nissan Sil Eighty
Colors: Purple, blue or
yellow
4WD
RACE
Subaru SVX S4
Colors: Purple or
white
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR Evolution
IV
Colors: Yellow, purple or
turquoise
LIGHTWEIGHT
Honda CRX Type R
Colors: Yellow with black hood,
green with black hood or pink with black hood
Mazda Eunos
Colors: Yellow, gold or
blue
JAPANESE Vs
US
Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition
Colors: Black or
green
Chrysler Viper GTS-R
Colors: White with blue stripes
or white with green stripes
JAPANESE Vs
BRITISH
TVR Cerbera Limited
Edition
Colors: Grey-purple or
grey-green
Honda CRX Limited
Edition
Colors: Red or black with white
stripes
BRITISH Vs
US
Chrysler Concept Car (Race
tuned)
Colors: Yellow, or
purple
Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited
Edition
Colors: Purple or
green
MEGA
RACE
Toyota Soarer 2.5 GT-T
VVT-I
Colors: Yellow, or
purple
Aston Martin DB7
Coupe
Colors: Purple, white or
crimson
NORMAL
RACE
Toyota Supra RZ
Colors: Purple
Impreza '96 WRX Sti
III
Colors: Light blue or
yellow
TUNED
RACE
Nissan '91 Skyline
GT-R
Colors: Red, yellow or
blue
AE86 Sprinter Trueno
GT
Colors: Red, blue or
green
VALLEY
300
Castrol Supra GT
Colors: Black, red and blue or
black, red and green
STAGE 11
RACING
Nissan Silvia Limited
Edition
Colors: Red or bright
green
STAGE 11
TUNED
Nissan GT-R Nismo
Color: Off white
MEDAL
CARS
All gold in B License
Test
Chrysler Concept Car
(stock)
Color: Red
All gold in A License
Test
Toyota TRD 3000GT
Color: Silver
All gold in International
A License Test
Nissan Nismo 400R
Colors: Silver, orange or
yellow
ARCADE
MODE
Not only is this a fun way to learn
the game, but it's also a great game in its own right. The
"Goodies" option
on the main menu basically enables you to keep track of what races you've
won, so utilize it to
ensure you don't needlessly compete
in races.
To open up all the goodies, you've
got to play on "Hard". When you beat a track using with all
three
car categories (A, B and C -- C
is pretty tough unless you're a Gran Turismo veteran), you open up
a
hidden track, of which there are
four. Beating each hidden track in the same way opens up a new
menu of cars -- either TVR, Chrysler,
Chevrolet or Aston Martin, depending on the track you beat.
When you've beaten every track
with every category of car, the arcade GT-Hifi mode is opened up
--
a time trial mode that enables
you to race the Clubman Stage R5, Special Stage R5 and Special
Stage
R11 in hi-res. This is very cool
indeed! It also opens up an option that enables you to view the
ending
movie, should you wish to do
so.
ADVANCED
TUNING
The basic setup of the cars is
excellent for general racing. However, if you're going for record
times
on Time Trial, you'll need to tweak
your car using the setup menu to ensure maximum performance.
You'll be surprised how much you
can improve your lap times by tuning your favorite car for each
particular track. Here's a basic
guide:-
SUSPENSION
SPRING
RATIO
Adjust the hardness of the
springs.
The stiffer you make the springs,
the faster and more responsively the car steers. However,
over-stiffening the springs makes
the car very unstable on rough roads. Some courses have
smoother
roads than others -- the smoother
the road, the stiffer you can make the springs.
RIDE HEIGHT
RATIO
Adjust the height of the
car.
Lowering the car's height lowers
its center of gravity and makes it more stable on the road.
However,
over-lowering the car causes it
to bottom out, which means you can completely go out of control
following a jump or particularly
vicious bump. This can be balanced by increasing the spring ratio
and
damper ratio -- but race the track
continually while adjusting to ensure maximum balance for each
particular track. Again, the smoother
the track, the lower you can adjust the car.
DAMPER
Adjust the decreasing strength
(dampening ratio) of the damper.
The softer the dampers, the more
the car rolls into corners and over-reacts to bumps in the road.
The
harder they are, the more unstable
the car gets out of corners. Some of the lighter cars have
problems
getting their power down cleanly
on the road -- their tires spin and the car shakes. By softening
the
dampers, the tires are able to
grip better -- the down-side is that the body roll is
over-exaggerated
through corners. When this happens,
adjust the Spring Ratio and to lessen the effect.
CAMBER
Adjust the negative cumber
angle.
This makes little difference to
overall performance, and setting this wrongly can completely ruin
the
car's handling, braking and steering.
A slight tweak negatively increases the car's stability through
corners, but this is offset by
loss of braking ability and steering effectiveness. In most cases, it's best
to
leave this as is.
STABILIZER
Adjust the roll rigidity of the
stabilizers.
The stabilizers affect the car's
cornering ability by making it more stable. Over-adjusting the
stabilizers causes
the car to become over-reactive on the straights. Under-adjusting makes it
roll through corners
and become very unstable. Just
remember -- the car's stability is also directly affected by the
dampers and spring
ratio -- so adjust this in relation to the other two.
BRAKE
Adjust the brake balance front
and back.
The more powerful the brake setting,
the more the car's weight is thrown forward during the braking
process. This can cause real handling
problems if you brake while turning. Basically, the more
powerful the front brakes, the
more the car understeers (that means it wants to carry on in a
straight
line) and the more powerful the
back brakes, the more the car oversteers (the back wants to
slide
around). The latter condition is
more preferable because it helps the cornering effort, but can cause
a
loss of traction. Tweak the brakes
to suit your driving style, starting with the rear brakes
first.
ENGINE
TURBO BOOST
PRESSURE
Adjust the turbo boost
pressure.
The higher the setting, the higher
the peak power is raised, but this detrimentally affects the
low-down acceleration
is affected. Generally speaking, you want to have turbo pressure at
maximum, unless
you're driving a course that requires
strong low- and mid-range acceleration (such as Special
Stage
R11)
GEAR
RATIOS
Adjust the ratio for each speed
gear.
Lowering the final drive ratio
reduces the car's acceleration, but enables it to reach faster speeds
(idea
for a top speed test, for example,
or very high speed courses). The higher the final drive, the better
the acceleration,
but it lowers top speed. Adjusting each individual gear ratio enables you
to ensure that
the engine revs are always kept
in the car's power band. This is particularly important for turbo
cars where the power
band kicks in at higher revs -- by not keeping the revs in the power band
results in very
poor pickup, reducing the car's low- and mid-range performance, drastically
affecting the car's
performance on the more twisty
tracks.
AERODYNAMICS
DOWNFORCE
Adjust the downforce.
Increasing the overall downforce
(by adjusting both front and rear by the same amount)
essentially
makes the car heavier, this making
it more stable at higher speeds. However, this increase in
"weight"
is to the detriment of top-end
performance. Lowering the downforce increases top-end
performance
but makes the car less stable at
top speed. Increasing the front downforce alone causes it to
understeer. Increasing the rear
downforce causes it to oversteer.
GRAN TURISMO'S GREATEST
CARS
Gran Turismo's sheer wealth of
cars is unprecedented. But with over 150 to choose from, which
ones
are the best? Obviously, this is
a very subjective question - everyone has their own personal
favorites.
So what we've done is choose a
selection of cars that stand out for a specific reason. Be it their
sheer
acceleration, cornering ability,
top speed or the fact that they're just plain fun to drive, the
following
cars are worth every credit of
their in-game price tag.
STOCK
CARS
Normal racing is one of the game's
biggest and most enjoyable challenges, since it requires a
great
deal of skill to win constantly.
With races that enable you to choose tuned vehicles, you can easily
pick an overpowered
car and blow the competition away. But with normal racing you're forced to
use the same
kinds of cars as the AI drivers, which means that even if you choose the
best cars in the class,
the competition are always right
behind you. All the cars listed below are capable of winning
the normal race,
but the question is - are you?
Note: Something you might have
noticed is that in most cases, when you buy a car and look at it
in
your garage, its power often differs
from the figure originally shown at the dealership. This
difference
essentially reflects the car's
"run in" power as opposed to the factory spec. In the cases below
we've
listed the "run in"
power.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
NISSAN '89 SKYLINE
GT-R
Power: 310 hp
Weight: 3373 lb
With a phenomenal number of
different-spec Skylines available in the game, it's difficult to
know
which to choose. Wonder no more
- this is the one. It's the lightest of the lot and whacks out a
very
healthy 310 hp, giving it better
acceleration and nimbler handling than the newer models. The fact
that it's four wheel
drive makes it a very easy and forgiving car to drive, and even though it
lacks the
midrange of an NSX Type S Zero,
it's a competitive car that's an excellent all-rounder.
NISSAN 400R
Power: 411 hp
Weight: 3417 lb
The 400 R's enormous 411 hp makes
it one of the most powerful stock cars in the game. Impressive
acceleration, great midrange pickup
and excellent top-end combine brilliantly to make this a car to
be reckoned with.
It's a bit on the heavy side, but once you learn how to utilize the car's
momentum to
best advantage by four wheel drifting,
you'll see why this Gran Turismo rarity is second only to the
awesome Viper as the best stock
vehicle in the game.
SUBARU '96 IMPREZA WRX-STi
III
Power: 276 ps
Weight: 2733 lb
Note: this isn't the same car you
buy from the Subaru dealership - it's the one you win in the
normal
race, and it's marginally lighter
than the regular version. It's a very easy car to drive, and its
relatively
light weight and fast steering
results in it being very nimble on the road, making it a winner,
particularly on twisty
courses. It's only letdown is its lack of top end, which means that it's
at a disadvantage on
courses with long straightaways,
but skillful drivers will be able to claw back a little lost time by
taking corners faster
than any of the other stock cars on this list.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
TVR GRIFFITH 500
Power: 333 hp
Weight: 2336 lb
Check out the weight of this one!
At just over 2300 lb, this is one of the lightest stock cars in
the
game. Combine that with its extremely
impressive power and you have a car that's blisteringly fast if
you have the skill to drive it.
It delivers its power from very low down the rev band, and because it's
so light it means
it can spin its wheels easily in first, second and third gear. The result
is a car that's a real
handful - if you have a lead foot
(or should that be finger) you'll be spinning out on every
corner.
However, treat it with respect
and drive intelligently and you'll find this TVR is one of the
fastest,
nimblest and most rewarding rear
wheel drive cars in the game.
CHRYSLER VIPER RT/10
Power: 440 hp
Weight: 3187 lb
All hail the king of the stock
cars (the Viper GTS is just as good, but it's marginally heavier, so
this
gets the nod from us over the hard-top
version). Its massive power delivered right across the rev band
and huge, fat tires combine to
make a vehicle that absolutely blows everything away in this
class.
Literally, there's nothing that
can beat the Viper in terms of sheer grunt acceleration and
phenomenal
midrange pickup. The only thing
you need to do is learn how to drive it. It's a fairly heavy car,
but
thanks to its copious grip can
be easily slid around the sharpest of corners - just make sure you
don't
put the power on too early or you'll
find yourself spinning out.
HONDA NSX TYPE S ZERO
Power: 285 hp
Weight: 2799 lb
All the NSX models are fantastic
cars, but the S Zero has the best power-to- weight ratio. It
has
superb handling thanks to its
mid-engine setup, and due to the fact that it's not a turbo car means
that it delivers
power right across the rev band. Extra bonus - highly impressive top speed,
which gives it an
advantage on courses with long,
sweeping bends and plenty of straightaways. Highly recommended
as a beginner's car
- and watch out for the computer AI racer who drives one of these.
He's very tough to
beat.
MAZDA RX-7 A-SPEC
Power: 256 hp
Weight: 2689 lb
With a slew of RX-7's to choose
from, the A-Spec offers the best in terms of weight and power.
It
might not have the acceleration
and handling of other cars in this class, but it's a fun car to drive
and
can definitely win if you work
at it. Watch out for early power-on, which can cause it to spin out,
and
try to keep its revs high - it's
a turbo car and delivers its punch right at the top of the rev
band.
TOYOTA TRD3000GT
Power: 291 hp
Weight: 3328 lb
Another Gran Turismo rarity, this
unusual Toyota - the racing division's take on a Supra - is heavy,
but very fast. It's
very at home on high speed courses, and can hold its own on the twisties
if you're
careful to brake early and ease
it through the corners. Like the RX-7, it's a turbo car, so keep
the
engine spinning at high revs. Let
them drop and you'll fall victim to its only vice - somewhat
sluggish
low-end pickup.
STOCK CARS (TUNED) AND
STOCK-DERIVED RACING CARS
Stock tuned cars (that is, cars
tuned to the max, but without the racing body conversion) are great
fun
to race, and there's plenty of
opportunity in Gran Turismo to do so, from the straightforward
class
races to the super high speed Mega
Race. The toughest competitions, however, are the Tuned and
the 30-lap R11 II
races, which both feature high quality AI competition. Since stock tuned
cars are
heavier and have slimmer tires
than a racing car, they're more challenging to drive than their race
car
derivatives, so generally you have
to brake earlier and corner slightly slower than you would with
a
racing car.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
MAZDA DEMIO A-SPEC
Power: 211 hp
Weight: 1408 hp
This overblown shopping kart is
an absolute hoot to drive. Although it's only rated 211 hp at full
tune, its incredible
light weight results in a car that's surprisingly competitive. Its high center
of gravity and
very fast steering also gives it
an added bonus - it easily tips over on its side. Indeed, once you
master this aspect
of its handling, you can actually drive considerable distances on two
wheels, which makes
for spectacular-looking
replays.
HONDA CRX SiR
Power: 259 hp
Weight: 1666 lb
Again, not exactly a powerful car,
but thanks to its light weight it's a deceptively quick car. Steering
is
very responsive, and its excellent
low- and midrange pickup makes it a fabulous car for twisty
courses
such as Autumnring Mini and Deep
Forest. It might be old, but give this front wheel driver a go -
it's
one of the better ones in the
game.
HONDA PRELUDE SiR
Power: 378 hp
Weight: 2303 lb
The most powerful front wheel drive
car in the game isn't necessarily the fastest all-round - its
lardy
weight unfortunately blunts its
overall performance. However, it's still a blast and can smoke
virtually every other
car in the front wheel drive category.
MITSUBISHI FTO GP VERSION
R
Power: 364 hp
Weight: 1977 lb
The FTO is simply the ultimate
front wheel drive car - if you want to break all your record times in
the front wheel drive
car race, this is the vehicle to choose. Its handling is nothing short of
incredible - it's
very easy to drive on the limit
thanks to its highly predictable understeer and its light weight
and
supremely responsive steering makes
it very easy to throw through the twistiest or corners where
heavier cars would be spinning
out.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
SUBARU '96 IMPREZA WRX-STi
III
Power: 494 hp
Weight: 2286 lb
Light weight and high power makes
a great combination especially when you add in fast steering
and
four wheel drive. Yep, this Subaru
is a great car that's the lightest in its class (tied with the
Nissan
Gti-R, which only makes 381 hp
fully tuned) and is absolutely at home on the R11 rally-style
courses
and twisty tracks such as Deep
Forest and Autumring.
SUBARU '94 IMPREZA
WAGON
Power: 567 hp
Weight: 2393 lb
A real sleeper, this wagon is the
most powerful stock-derived Subaru in the game. It's
exceptionally
fast, has fine mid- and upper-range
power (don't let the revs drop, because it's a turbo) and is
extremely well balanced. If you're
looking for one of the best four wheel drive rally-style cars in
the
game, look no further than
this.
MITSUBISHI LANCER GSR EVOLUTION
IV
Power: 492 hp
Weight: 2528 lb
Heavier than the GSR Evolution
III, but with crisper power deliver and better handling thanks to
its
larger, thicker-gauge tires, this
four wheel driver is fun to thrash around any twisty track and still
has
the power to compete on the more
open courses. It's not as good as the two Subarus, but should
still
be checked out.
NISSAN '89 SKYLINE
GT-R
Power: 913 hp
Weight: 2678 lb
Get ready for the ride of your
life - this car is absolutely insane. It's ridiculously overpowered and
its
brutal power delivery makes it
an incredibly exciting car to drive. Watch for its lethal acceleration
-
you'll find the next corner coming
up much faster than you expect. It's quite heavy and combined
with its rapidity
means that you have to be hard on the brakes or you'll be off at every corner.
If you can tame
this beast, expect to chalk up some awesome record times.
NISSAN SKYLINE GT-R
VSPEC
Power: 941 ps
Weight: 2885 lb
This Skyline makes the list thanks
to the fact that it's the most powerful car in the game. If
screaming
out of corners with all four wheels
spinning is your thing, this car must not be missed. The downside
of this warp-speed
accelerating car is its weight - if you want to keep this car on the road,
you have to
get on the brakes early. However,
once you get the measure of its balance, you can four wheel
drift
through corners at speed, and then
use its lunatic power to burst out of the bend with all four
wheels
spinning. Truly one of the Gran
Turismo greats.
MITSUBISHI '95 GTO MR
Power: 930 hp
Weight: 3203 lb
This car's just too heavy for most
twisting courses, but for the Mega Speed race it's excellent.
Particularly on the oval test track,
where it's really at home. Just remember to brake very early,
and
don't try to throw this car through
the bends - you'll just end up plowing off the track.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
TOYOTA SUPRA RZ
Power: 910 hp
Weight: 2828 lb
If lurid tail slides are your thing,
this insane rear wheel driver is definitely one for you. It's a
heavy
motor, so get on the brakes early
for corners, and only pour the power on when the car is
balanced
and ready to go in a straight line,
otherwise you'll find yourself facing traffic within a heartbeat.
Other
than that, have fun - this car
has phenomenal straight line acceleration, and can get serious air
on
tracks with jumps, like Deep Forest's
straightaway.
CHRYSLER VIPER GTS
Power: 578 hp
Weight: 2526 lb
As smooth as rear wheel drive cars
get, this vehicle's supremely fat tires enables it to get the
power
down comfortably, and makes sliding
it through corners a breeze. It's not as fast as a souped-up
Supra, but it's far
more controllable and it has exceptional midrange acceleration.
TVR GRIFFITH BLACKPOOL
B340
Power: 430 hp
Weight: 1820 lb
If you're getting good at the game
and are after a challenging car that'll reward and delight, this is
the one to try. Just
don't buy it straight away. It's very powerful and very light, which makes
it very
susceptible to spinouts if the
power is gotten on to early. But learn to brake right, to balance the
car
right through corners and when
to get the power on and you'll find a record breaker in the
making.
HONDA NSX TYPE S ZERO
Power: 534 hp
Weight: 2182 lb
Like it is in its stock form, this
is a very easy and forgiving car to drive - it takes an unskilled
baboon
with no finesse to get it out of
shape. It's extremely fast, has very impressive top end and is
comfortable on pretty much any
track in the game. An excellent all-rounder and a good one to
choose early on in
your career as a Gran Turismo driver.
MAZDA RX-7 A-SPEC
Power: 527 hp
Weight: 2286 lb
The RX-7, thanks to its reasonable
weight and quick steering, is a fun driver. Just remember to
keep
those revs high, as it delivers
its power at the top end of the rev band. As usual with rear wheel
drive
cars, watch for that early power-on
or you'll be waltzing down the track making beautiful clouds of
smoke as you spin.
SOARER 2.5 GT-T VVT-I
Power: 789 hp
Weight: 2923 lb
This one's in here thanks to the
fact that it's great fun to drive. It's heavy, it has relatively thin
tires and it
has lots of power. Which means one thing - lots of tail-sliding,
tire-shredding sideways-slideways
action. The Soarer isn't the car
to choose if you want to break records, but if you're looking to
impress, or want
to indulge in a little exhibition driving, this car's fun, fun,
fun.
STOCK-DERIVED RACING
CARS
Lighter, more nimble and gripper
than their stock-tuned counterparts, stock- derived race cars are
a
total blast to drive. One thing
to remember when you're deciding whether to upgrade to a race car
or
not is that you can actually do
this relatively cheaply and still keep your stock-tuned car. Buy the
same model and take
it racing. But don't race it - select "change parts" from the menu and you'll
be able to
select every option you've already
bought for your other car - for free (and it's a permanent thing
too, as long as you
save the game)! The only things you need to buy are port polishing, rebore
and the three stages
of aerodynamics (and, occasionally and for an inexplicable reason on some
models, the brake
controller). Then, all you have to do is buy the racing body and you have
two different class cars
at cut-rate price.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
MAZDA DEMIO A-SPEC
Power: 211 hp
Weight: 1210 lb
The racing version of this is even
more insane and, with practice, you can actually flip this car
onto
two wheels on the
straights!
HONDA CRX SiR
Power: 259 hp
Weight: 1430 lb
Faster, smoother and more predictable
than its stock counterpart, this pocket rocket sure does fly.
HONDA PRELUDE SiR
Power: 378 hp
Weight: 1977 lb
Easier to manage than the stock-tuned
version, just watch for its tendency to spin its wheels on
every
corner.
MITSUBISHI FTO GP VERSION
R
Power: 364 hp
Weight: 1697 lb
Here's the game's ultimate front
wheel drive car. Fantastically responsive and extremely fast, this
is
the easiest car in the game to
drive at insane speeds.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
SUBARU '96 IMPREZA WRX-STi
III
Power: 494 hp
Weight: 1935 lb
A fabulous rally car that's razor
sharp and controllably quick.
SUBARU '94 IMPREZA
WAGON
Power: 567 hp
Weight: 2030 lb
Faster, but slightly less manageable
than the STi III, this car rewards the skilled driver.
MITSUBISHI LANCER GSR EVOLUTION
IV
Power: 492 hp
Weight: 2142 lb
Similar characteristics to stock-tuned,
but obviously faster and more responsive.
NISSAN '89 SKYLINE
GT-R
Power: 9139 hp
Weight: 2268 lb
If you thought the stock-tuned
version was mad, this version should be locked up and given
sedatives.
Watch it on tight, closed-in courses
- if you're not careful you'll be bouncing off the walls.
MITSUBISHI '95 GTO MR
Power: 930 hp
Weight: 2665 lb
Here's the car to break top speed
records with, particularly if you're willing to fiddle with its
setup.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
TOYOTA SUPRA RZ
Power: 910 hp
Weight: 2396 lb
The fatter tires of the racing
body conversion makes this a lot more controllable, and it's able to put
the power down better,
which means it's even quicker in a straight line.
NISMO GT-R LM
Power: 860 hp
Weight: 2506 lb
This car, earned by winning the
30-lap R11 II race, is rather disappointing in stock and
stock-tuned
form. But it comes into its own
when you slap a racing body into it - it's lighter and more powerful
than the Special
Edition Nismo GT-R LM that costs 50m credits! Very highly
recommended.
TVR GRIFFITH 500
Power: 430 hp
Weight: 1565 lb
Just like it is in its other forms,
this TVR is one for Gran Turismo masters. It's a blinder if you have
the ability - an
uncontrollable nightmare if you don't.
HONDA NSX TYPE S ZERO
Power: 534 hp
Weight: 1873 lb
Even easier to drive than stock-tuned,
this is a car that's highly recommended to beginners looking to
step up from stock-level
racing.
SPECIAL RACE CARS AND LIMITED
EDITION RACE CARS
Here's where the racing goes from
fast to warp speed. All the following cars are "pure" racers.
Each
has exceptional scope for tuning
and most of them are supremely competitive. The 50,000,000
credit
Special Model cars are obviously
fast, but the game's best cars are actually ones that you can
win.
Here's a complete list of all of
the pure racing cars in the game - strap your seatbelt on and get
ready
for the ride of your
life.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
SUBARU RALLY EDITION
Power: 575 hp
Weight: 2160 lb
Simply, the best there is for tight
courses like Autumnring (mini and regular) and the Special
Stages,
this rally car is blisteringly
fast thanks to its incredibly close gear ratios, and it's incredibly responsive
-
you can literally hurl it through
corners. On the high speed courses, you have to increase its final
drive
ratio, otherwise you'll find the
car hitting its rev limiter way to early.
MITSUBISHI FTO LM
EDITION
Power: 541 hp
Weight: 2050 lb
One of the Gran Turismo greats,
this is the best all-round car in the game. Light, incredibly easy
and
forgiving to drive, sporting excellent
acceleration, responsive pickup across the rev band and fast
steering, this is a car that you
can really cane the nuts off without worrying about crashing every
few
seconds. It's not as quick as some
other cars, but because of its ease of use is ideal for beating
the
endurance races.
MITSUBISHI GTO LM
Power: 604 hp
Weight: 2821 lb
This is a fairly easy to drive
car thanks to its great grip and acceleration - as long as you brake
and
accelerate without spinning the
tires. If you're a sucker for tail sliding, you'll find this will punish
you
due to its poor low- down pickup.
Not a car for twisty courses, this one lives for open, high
speed
tracks.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
HONDA DEL SOL LM
Power: 563 hp
Weight: 1962 lb
A very light, very powerful car
that's extremely stable thanks to its mid- engine configuration.
Its
acceleration is road-ripplingly
fast and it can be thrown into corners at speed. Just watch for
mid-corner oversteer at high
speed.
MAZDA RX-7 A-SPEC LM
Power: 570 hp
Weight: 2314 lb
A decent car that's good all round
and has excellent cornering ability. Watch for mid-corner
oversteer
and keep the engine spinning and
this will see you right. Get it wrong and well, you should know
the
score by now.
MAZDA RX-7 LM
Power: 596 hp
Weight: 2116 lb
With more power, less weight and
fatter tires than the A-Spec LM, this is by far the ultimate
RX-7.
It's exceptionally fast, corners
at unbelievable speed thanks to the sheer amount of rubber in
contact
with the road and has outstanding
acceleration, making it one of the best 50m Special Editions in
the
game.
NISSAN SILVIA LM
Power: 536 hp
Weight: 2116 lb
Another excellent rear wheel drive
car that offers great handling and good all-round speed. Not as
quick as some of the other racing
cars, but that's not to say that it's an incredibly fast, highly
enjoyable
racer.
TOYOTA CHASER LM
Power: 655 hp
Weight: 2777 lb
This, the heaviest Limited Edition
racing car in the game, is fun to drive, but it has a tendency
to
understeer. A good beginners car,
but not one to stick with if you have record-breaking in mind.
CHRYSLER CONCEPT CAR
Power: 560 hp
Weight: 1329 lb
Supremely light and very powerful,
this car is an outstanding motor that's great to drive on every
type
of course.
CHRYSLER VIPER GTS-R
Power: 680 hp
Weight: 2753 lb
The second best car in the game,
this is an absolutely superb racing car that offers smooth
handling,
astounding grip, lunatic fast
acceleration and amazing top speed. If you're able to avoid the
early
power-on oversteer which its big
power and little weight tend to cause (easy enough as long as
you
put the power down once the car
has settled through the corner), you'll find this car is fabulous.
Best
thing of all - you don't even have
to fiddle with its setup to start beating the competition and
breaking
records!
TOYOTA CASTROL SUPRA
GT
Power: 655 hp
Weight: 2535 lb
This awesome racer is fast, smooth
and responsive and has huge potential for tweaking. It's got
excellent all-round power and superb
acceleration and, as long as the driver doesn't go for lurid
tail
slides, is one of the best- balanced
racers in the game.
HONDA NSX-R GT2 TURBO
Power: 549 hp
Weight: 2314 lb
Like the Castrol Supra, this is
another great, well-balanced car that has excellent scope for
tweaking.
A brilliant all-rounder, its only
vice is that its handling gets a little twitchy and it can get out of
shape at very
high speeds.
THE BEST CAR IN THE GAME
TVR CERBERA LM
Power: 581 hp
Weight: 1984 lb
With the best power-to-weight ratio
of any car in the game, this is quite simply the fastest car
that
Gran Turismo has to offer. However,
you have to be an excellent driver to get the best out of it -
novices need not apply. Once you
have the skill to drive it, the Cerbera offers an absolutely
astonishing ride.
It's fantastically fast, its acceleration is mind-boggling and its cornering
ability is simply
unbelievable - if you're good enough,
you can actually corner on two wheels while tail sliding!
Once you master this
car, you'll break every record you thought you'd never beat.
HOW TO DRIVE THE CARS
ALWAYS REMEMBER THIS
Big beginner tip: when cornering,
remember the racing adage, "slow in, fast out". It's the key to
success. Learn to brake early and
get on the power as early as possible so you accelerate out of
a
bend. Don't brake late -- you'll
still be out of control and decelerating deep into the corner, and
you'll end up coming
out of the corner slowly and quite possibly still not under full control
of the car.
WHEELSPIN
While it's great fun sliding cars
through corners with their wheels spinning, it's actually
totally
inefficient for racing. Think about
it - every revolution of the car's wheel while spinning is a
wasted
one - if that wheel was gripping
the car would be moving forward at a much quicker rate. To drive
a
car efficiently, you have to brake
early so you can get on the power through the corner and
accelerate
out of the corner at the limit
of the car's grip.
BRAKING
Braking for corners correctly is extremely important. Do it too early and you lose an awful lot of time; too late and you come off the track and lose even more time (particularly if there's a sandy runoff area). So how do you get it right? The trick is to remember to look for braking markers - trackside objects that help you identify exactly when to slam on the brakes for a corner. You don't have to do it for every corner - sweeping ones can easily be gotten right. But for severe corners - particularly those at the end of long straights when you're going absolutely flat out - it's absolutely crucial. Several practice laps will quickly enable you to hunt these out. Look for signposts, trees, overhead gantries, fence posts, kerbs - anything that is clearly recognizable that you can easily remember. Basically, as you're approaching the corner, quickly look around and as you start to brake and observe what recognizable objects are nearby and choose one of those as your braking point. If you've braked too late or too early, change your braking accordingly on the next lap (using your originally selected braking point as reference) this time looking for another marker as you do so. Keep repeating this process until you have the perfect braking point.
Once you have a braking point, you can then use it every time you race, modifying it depending on the car you're using by using the strategy outlined above. It sounds quite complex, but if you're prepared to put a little time into this, you'll find your lap times will improve immensely.
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CARS
A front wheel drive cars displays
a heavy understating behavior while cornering - that means it
wants
to go straight ahead instead of
going around the corner. Cars of this type have to be driven hard
in
order to obtain fast cornering.
You have to brake late, very late, to successfully negotiate the
corner.
Basically, at the very last moment
into the corner, turn in and blip the brake to change the car's
attitude through
the corner, tucking in the front tires and making the back want to slide
around. The faster the
approach to a corner, the more
you have to brake, but don't forget - the later you brake, the faster
you navigate the
bend.
If it looks like the car is about
to go off the road, you can "gas it" - punching the accelerator
while
steering into the corner actually
helps it grip and get around the bend. However, doing this is
inefficient since
it spins the tires, and it's best to use this tactic only in an
emergency.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE CARS
Rear wheel drive cars are the most
fun to drive since you can slide them around the corners. Cars
of
this type have a natural tendency
to oversteer - that means that the back of the car wants to
break
loose and slide around into the
corner, essentially spinning the car out. Whenever a car slides in
this
way, you should steer into the
slide until the car begins to straighten out.
The best way to drive a rear wheel
powered car is with respect. Brake in a straight line, get off
the
brakes and turn into the corner,
get the car balanced and then when the car is settled, get on the
gas
and power out of the corner under
acceleration, using the full width of the road.
Getting the power on too early
overexaggerates the oversteer and the car simply spins out of
control.
Doing it too late results in a
loss of acceleration out of the corner.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CARS
The road holding characteristics
of these cars are a bit more complex. They are a combination of
both
of the above. A four wheel drive
car has a tendency to understeer when entering the corner and
oversteer when exiting. Like with
front wheel drive cars, the driver has to brake late when
entering
the corner, turning in at the last
moment of braking. The car leans into the corner, and then as
it
bounces back on its suspension,
get back on the gas to slide the car through the corner. It takes
some
practice to learn the timing of
the "bounce". Do it too early and the car simply understeers in a
straight line and
won't make the corner. Do it too late and you lose considerable speed. Also,
the heavier the
car, the more prone to understeering
it is - with a car that carries a lot of weight, you really have
to heave it into
the corner, virtually sending it sideways before you get back on the gas
to wrestle it
through the bend.
CORNERING IN PRACTICE
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
Approach the corner at speed.
Turn into the corner and blip the
brakes to avoid understeer - don't forget to keep those front
wheels
turned into the corner at all
times.
Keep turning in and as soon as car has stopped understeering and is turning into the bend.
Try to keep the wheels straight at this point, which allows maximum acceleration.
Keep the power on and blast out
of the corner at top speed - use the full width of the road if
necessary to ensure maximum exit
speed.
REAR WHEEL DRIVE
Approach the corner at speed.
Brake in a straight line - don't break while turning or the car will spin.
When you've finished braking, turn the car into the corner. Don't power on at this point or the car will spin.
When the car is settled and sliding
neutrally (or simply driving around the bend with all wheels
gripping), power on and steer into
the slide if the back end starts to break away.
Use the full width of the road to ensure maximum acceleration and exit speed.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
Approach the corner at speed.
Brake in a straight line, turn
in and blip the brakes - watch for understeer at this point. If the car
is
doing this, turn in and blip the
brakes again.
Power on when the car has bounced on its suspension and has settled into a neutral slide.
Keep the power on and the car will four wheel drift through the bend, cornering flat.
Use the full width of the road to maximize exit speed.
CHEATING BASTARD
TACTICS
Like most licensed games, Gran
Turismo's cars don't suffer any damage as a result of collisions
with
other racers or trackside objects.
This can be used to your advantage. On circuits with walls,
particularly the High Speed Ring,
Special Stages and Clubman circuit, you can use some corners'
walls
to your advantage by sliding into
them and running along their length while accelerating around
the
bend. There is a little loss of
speed when you hit the wall, but since by using this tactic, you don't
really need to brake
into the corner, there is an overall gain in speed, since you can bounce
your way through
a bend at a far greater speed than
you would under normal conditions. This does require a
good degree of skill
to get right - a full-on frontal collision results in a huge loss of speed.
To do it right, you
have to hit the wall with the car
parallel to it to ensure minimum loss of momentum.
The other thing that can help is
other cars. If there's a car in front of you, you can slide into it
and
bounce off it, safely negotiating
the bend at speed in similar way that you can use a wall. The
added
bonus is that it sends the other
car careening off the track - very useful if that car happens to be
one
of the leaders.
LICENSE TESTS
B
LICENSE
License B-1 [Start, Accelerate, and Stop, part 1]
Accelerate in a straight line from starting point and stop
completely in the goal area at 1000 meters away. Overunning the
goal area or over-time, you are disqualified. The car is Mazda
Demio. Time limit is 36 seconds.
License B-2 [Start, Accelerate, and Stop, part 2]
Accelerate in a straight line from starting point and stop
completely in the goal area at 1000 meters away. Since the car
is heavier and more powerful, you'll need to brake earlier. The
car is Mitsubishi GTO. Time limit is 27 seconds.
License B-3 [Basic Cornering, part 1]
Accelerate the straight from starting point, turn the first
corner, and run through the finish gate over the hill. Be
careful to corner smoothly. Course-out is disqualified. The car
is Honda CR-X Del Sol. Time limit is 29 seconds.
License B-4 [Basic Cornering, part 2]
Accelerate the straight from starting point, turn the first
corner, and run through the finish gate over the hill. Be
careful to corner smoothly. Going out of the course
disqualifies immediately. The car is Nissan Silvia. Time limit
is 26 seconds.
License B-5 [Basic Cornering, part 3]
Accelerate the straight from starting point, turn the first
corner, and run through the finish gate over the hill. Be
careful to corner smoothly. Going out of the course
disqualifies immediately. The car is Mitsubishi GTO. Time limit
is 25 seconds.
License B-6 [Basics of Complex Cornering, part 1]
Accelerate from starting point, corner the S-curve smoothly,
and go through the finish gate. Going out of the course
disqualifies immediately. The car is a FF car, Mitsubishi FTO
GPX. Time limit is 28 seconds.
License B-7 [Basics of Complex Cornering, part 2]
Accelerate from starting point, corner the S-curve smoothly,
and go through the finish gate. Going out of the course
disqualifies immediately. The car is an FR car, Nissan Silvia
K's. Time limit is 27 seconds.
License B-8 [B License Examination]
Time trial using the full course of Highspeed Ring. Start from
still and circle the course once. The car is Mazda Roadster V
Special. Time limit is 1 minute 22 seconds.
A LICENSE
License A-1 [Practical Cornering, part 1]
Accelerate from starting point, turn the first corner, and go
through the finish gate. Beware that the straight is longer
than previous tests, and the entrance speed to the corner is
higher. The car is Toyota Supra. Time limit is 34 seconds.
License A-2 [Practical Cornering, part 2]
Accelerate from starting point, turn right the first corner,
and go through the finish gate. Beware that the straight is
longer than previous tests, so that the entrance speed to the
corner is higher. The car is Toyota Supra RZ. Time limit is 26
seconds.
License A-3 [Practical Cornering, part 3]
Accelerate through the long straight, and turn right tightly
the first corner. Since you have to brake while turning
gradually left before the first corner, the machine tend to
lose stability. The car is Mazda RX-7. Time limit is 44
seconds.
License A-4 [Applied Complex Conering, part 1]
Go through the complex series of corners efficiently. Do not
slow down unnecesarily, maintain the average speed of the whole
section. The car is Nissan Skyline GT-R. Time limit is 39
seconds.
License A-5 [Applied Complex Cornering, part 2]
Go through the high-speed left-right S-curve, and turn tight to
left. It is vital to keep the exit speed of the last tight left
turn. Touching to the wall will lose the time big. The car is
Honda Prelude. Time limit is 32 seconds.
License A-6 [Applied Complex Cornering, part 3]
Go through the complex corners after the acceleration section.
Since you have to brake while turning left for the first right
tight-turn, machine will tend to lose stability. Also keep the
line smooth. The car is Toyota MR2. Time limit is 27 seconds.
License A-7 [Special Technique]
Go round the 100 meter small specially set-up circuit for 5
times. You need to turn quickly without spinning, using
low-speed side-brake technique. The car is Subaru Impreza. Time
limit is 33 seconds.
License A-8 [A License Examination]
Start, turn right the first corner, go through the high-speed
section, turn right a hair-pin, then finish. Difficult test
that goes through tight turn with high-speed entrance. The car
is Toyota Supra RZ. Time limit is 1 minute 8 seconds.
International A
License
License IA-1 [Attack the High Speed Ring]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
TVR Griffith. Time limit is 1 minute 7 seconds.
License IA-2 [Attack the SS Route 5]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
Dodge Viper. Time limit is 1 minute 30 seconds.
License IA-3 [Attack the Grand Valley]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
TVR Griffith. Time limit is 2 minute 3 seconds.
License IA-4 [Attack the Deep Forest]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
Dodge Viper. Time limit is 1 minute 23 seconds.
License IA-5 [Attack the Autumng Ring]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
TVR Griffith. Time limit is 1 minute 24 seconds.
License IA-6 [Attack the Trial Mountain]
Start from still and time the one lap time. Since it's a full
course time attack, it will require every technique. The car is
Dodge Viper. Time limit is 1 minute 33 seconds.
License IA-7 [Attack the SS Route 11]
Start from still and time the one lap time. It's a long and
complex course. Study the course and reduce the time. The car
is TVR Griffith. Time limit is 2 minute 11 seconds.
License IA-8 [International A License Examination]
You might have to find this one out for yourself!
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