How to ride to Lisbon
There are 3 main entrances to Lisbon. One coming from North, the other two from the South.
If you entered Portugal through Vilar Formoso (most probable entrance when coming from Hendaia-Biarritz), you probably will arrive to Lisbon on the A1 motorway, which connects the two main cities of Portugal. Motorways in Portugal are paid, and are not amongst the cheapest in Europe. There are no special prices for motorcycles who are due the same as A class cars. Price depends on the amount of kilometres you travelled. Some major credit cards are accepted. Debit cards are accepted as long as issued by a Portuguese bank (and there's stach in the bank account).
Normally you should get in the motorway, get a ticket (don’t ever loose that ticket) and pay at exit. Some motorways are not paid (they are rare), and on some of them you pay a single price without a ticket (even few).
There are not many service areas, so check your fuel tank, you wouldn't want to push your bike for 50 km's under a 36ºC Sun. Sometimes next gas station may be as far as 150 Km. 98, 95 leaded and unleaded gasoline is widely available. Prices range from 170 to 180 Portuguese Escudos. Check this info before hitting the road. Though prices are free, all stations practice the same price. No point in getting out of the motorway to have a refuel. Motorway gas stations are opened 24 hours a day (at least most of them are), 365 days a year. All have WC’s. Normally premises are clean, but during summer months with the increase of travelling people conditions may not be very proper. All gas stations have small shops and some have restaurants and even motels. Eating or buying anything on these places can be the same as getting robbed on the road. Prices are usually 20 to 50% higher than in any other place. If stuck on the motorway, a safety car should take not very long before appearing. If you went on a dry tank, they’ll charge you for the gas 5 times it’s price. Bargain, and you may be lucky, or fake another problem to get a free tow outta there.
When arriving to Lisbon be careful with the speed limits. 120 km/h on motorways, and 50 on the cities, even if the road is 4 lanes and has no level crossings. Speed limits are not widely enforced, but sometimes there are radar controls. Portuguese police tends to hide, rather than showing as the Spanish do. If caught, be very polite, make yourself dumb, but never the opposite. Act with tact and you may get away with it. Don’t ever try to bribe a policeman!
If you’re coming to Lisbon via Madrid, you’ll probably enter the city coming from South. Lucky you! Crossing the river is one of the most beautiful ways of entering the city. There are now two bridges. Ferry’s are also available from Alameda. The older bridge is called "25 de Abril", and is very similar to the famous Golden Gate in San Francisco. It provides a repenting and breathless taking disclosure of the western part of the city. When arriving to Lisbon you’ll not be very far from centre. The new bridge "Vasco da Gama", will carry you in a thrilling experience over the widest part of the estuary. Sometimes the bridge is only 8 meters above water level and it may seems as if you were Jesus riding over water. You’ll "arrive" just by the Expo ’98. Whatever way you choose try to arrive during daylight time, but be aware that heavy traffic will occur all day, as more than 2 million commute to Lisbon.
Landscape, weather, people and roads
Portugal offers a very wide range of landscape and spots where riders can enjoy a nice travel. You’ll find mountains on the North, plains on the south, wonderful white sand beaches all over the coast. On the south the water is warmer, reaching 24ºC during Summer.
You’ll have a good chance to find our climate as close as the paradise as you thought it would be possible. This is especially true if you’re coming form northern Europe and even more true if you’re coming from Britain or Ireland. The climate is mild throughout of the year, and warm during July and August. Temperatures range from 4ºC in winter to 38ºC in summer. The rain appears normally from November till February, and should be no problem during the rest of the year. Normally the rain is associated to frontal systems, meaning that it tend to last no more than a few hours, exceptions are notable.
People are often warm though can also be rude sometimes, but in the whole Portuguese tend to be friendly and happy always willing to help.
You can eat and drink for less than everywhere else maybe except Greece. Only that in Portugal you still can eat fresh fish (for obvious reasons not available on Mondays).
As you’ll probably find out Lisbon can easily offer the best and the worst, cheapest and the robbery. The trick is to find the real bargain. It won’t be difficult but it will take some time. For a start there are a lot of junk food chains. avoid them at any cost. For almost the same price there are places where you can have a proper meal. There are also a lot of Chinese. Veggies may have a difficult time to find out a restaurant. There are only a few vegetarians and macrobiotics.
You’ll find bear easily, but you’ll be foolish if you don’t try the Portuguese red wine. A 75cl decent bottle should cost from 1000 to 3000 Escudos in a restaurant, and from 500 to 2500 in a supermarket. White wine is also good, but in our opinion it is more difficult to find a good one.
Sangria which is a rather fresh mixture of fruits, bubble water, and wine is also very pleasant, specially after beach.
Grilled sardines with bread and tomato salad are a must during July feasts. The 13th of July is the day the city consecrates to its patron Saint Anthony. There are marches and "arraiais" almost everywhere at the old part of town. Almost half a million gathers for the party, that only ends with people falling from drunkenness at late hours in the morning.
Since you’re a biker there’s only one place to go, and that will be "Gringo’s". Though purists don’t show up, Gringo’s gather some very curious bunches of rather well "behaved bikers". From the kid with a tuned up 50, to the Daytona dude. There are a lot of other places, ranging from fashionable dancing’s where you’ll enter only if you have strong connections to some other places where despicable whores find a way out of the night.
Best places are the old Bairro Alto, the docks and during 1998 the Expo. Chicks are widely available but they are not easy.
Bars usually close at two, four or six. Discos close from 6, and some ravers will find places opening at 8 in the morning. If you’re in a mood for cinema, movies are always exhibited on there original version with subtitles, prices are cheap ranging from 500 to 850 Escudos. On Fridays and Saturdays there are theatres running 2 o’clock sessions. On Sundays prices are cheaper.
As for the roads, Portugal has a large net of second category roads, a small amount of highways, and first class roads. Highways are paid, and bike pay the same as cars unless the rider acquire the electronic system Via Verde which will grant a 30% discount, this system as far as I know is only available for residents, since it uses the Multibanco net. Normally roads are not very good on design (with unnecessary kerbs and banks), are poor on postsigning (sometimes a compass is almost needed, especially in cities, also roadsign is poor), and bad on the pavement (holes and bumps).
Not at my home for sure. Portuguese hospitality is widely practised, but don’t count on it to live by. There are many cheap accommodations Lisbon has it’s own camping, but you might want to go to one of the many that exist on the outskirts of town. You can find camping sites in Oeiras, Cascais and Guincho (West), Costa da Caparica (South) and Vila Franca de Xira (East). Try not sleep on the rough, ‘cause like in any other large city this can be dangerous, besides being forbidden. If by any chance you do not find a place where to sleep, head to the "Santa Apolónia" train station where many "Interrailers" are sleeping.
Normally it won’t be difficult to find an economic hotel or "pensão". Remember, though, that during the Expo 2 to 3 million tourists are expected. If possible reserve before, or arrive early.
Large and luxury hoots are almost taken for the summer, best way is to reserve via a travel agency.
If you look on the oldest part of Lisbon (Sé, Bairro Alto, etc.) you’ll probably find a nice place with an honest price. There’s also some youth hostels, if you’re young enough to hold a youth card try to book in one of these.
All hotels have a "book of complaints" just in case you want to fill one out. Ask full prices before checking. Prices should include all taxes. Tips are not mandatory but are appreciated, and sometimes make the difference.
If you’re to stay on a hotel, ask them where you can park your bike. You did brought your locker and chain didn’t you? If you can’t find a garage, ask where’s the next police station. There is a motorcycle parking almost near for sure. Trouble will be finding any room. Remember, if you are to leave you’re bike out’o’sight, always lock it (day or night)… and then remember to unlock it before riding.
Commercial malls, normally have free and surveyed parking for bikes, but they won’t allow you to keep it for the night. According to the Portuguese law, if anything happens to your bike while left there, they’ll be held responsible. In that case find as much witnesses as you can and call the police.
Law enforcement is not strict. While there are enough number of laws protecting the consumers rights, there are not many laws forbidding much things. Drugs are illegal, but consuming light drugs is largely tolerated as long as it is not in front of the local police station / local priest / the "café" where everybody goes. Drugs traffic is heavily punished.
Speed limits are as follows:
Inside city limits: 50 Km/h * this can be signed either by a specific sign or by the sign of the location.
Roads: normally 90km/h sometimes it can be 70km/h or less, if this is the case it has to be specified by a proper sign.
Main Roads or IP’s (stands for "Itinerário Principal" = Main Itinerary): normally 100Km/h sometimes less. No slow motion vehicles, like bicycles and animal pulled vehicles, are allowed.
Highways: 120 Km/h also no slow vehicles are allowed.
Police actitude towards bikers
Mainly it’s not predictable. Can be friendly and warm, helpful even, can be a disaster.
There are three kind of policeman in Portugal: PSP, GNR and GNR-BT
PSP act mainly in large cities, they wear blue and are very very annoying and intolerant, probably won’t let you get away with a minor infraction such as parking on a sidewalk, if they see. If they don’t see, normally you can get away with it. When seeing a policeman putting a ticket on you bike, NEVER walk to it. Normally they won’t toe bikes. Once the policeman vanishes, make sure you keep the ticket, run away from there, since you’re foreigner chances are that you can get away with it. When doing road traffic control, there’s a huge possibility they have radar’s. So ride according to the speed limits. Mostly one can ride at 60 to 70 without being detected. More than that is dangerous.
GNR act mainly in small country villages, they tend to be illiterate, but not stupid. They drive, easy to spot green and grey UMM’s (Portuguese made Jeeps) and old Land Rovers.
They can run like hell, and have great sights. Do not EVER, run from them, or else you can get shot. These guys tend to be much more friendly (odd) than the PSP’s since they have not much to do. When doing road control they tend to hide (just like every other policeman in Portugal, and opposite to Spain police which tends to show a lot). Normally they don’t have radar’s, but they will see when you have crossed the line, though you can’t see them.
GNR-BT these guys know all the traffic laws by heart. They act strict but not stupidly, and as long as you’re not doing any thing stupid, like passing red lights, crossing continuous lines, or whelies, they will let you got at ease. Normally they are friendly and helpful.
Other drivers actitude toward riders
Car drivers in Portugal are stupid (like everywhere else), but they drive bad and dangerously. If you’ve been to Paris, all you have to do is multiply their behaviour by a factor of ten add the Italian speed and should get the average Portuguese driver. On a three lane road the Portuguese fast drivers always take the middle one, "even faster" drivers take the left one, bikers use the right one to proceed at the fastest speed, and be left alone.
Statistically speaking Portuguese roads are amongst the deadly one’s of Europe. Even worst than Greece! If you avoid riding at night (9pm till 4 am) you should avoid great adventures. If in great need of night riding, avoid main roads, and be extremely careful in secondary roads. Always look twice, and never trust a car driver, he probably has not seen you. Avoid at all costs drinking and driving. When caught you will get busted. The only way around this is of the policeman, asking you to blow on the alchoometer, is drunker than you. I know someone who asked the policeman to test the device and got away with it J.
Filtering is permitted as long as you do not change lanes. In Portugal it’s allowed for two vehicles to circulate in the same lane. Cars can overpass bikes even in banks, as long as they do not cross the continuous line.
You will not get help from car drivers, though there will be exceptions, when you find one always thank them if you can.
The worst kind of car driver is the taxi driver, expect no mercy from them.
Bikers actitude towards other bikers
In Portugal Bikers are most of the times friendly to other bikers, unless you’re on trouble. If you got stuck on the side of the road at 2 a.m. in a desert road you’ll probably get help from a biker, if one passes. But if you got stuck in a road with lots of them passing, you won’t get help that easily. You’ll have to wave’em! Being foreigner you’ll find that the Portuguese biker can be talkative (though he won’t know English), and helpful (though he won’t know mechanics at all he will always have a clue). You’ll find that Portuguese bikers tend to ride the latest models. It’s not a question of vanity rather a question of maintaining an older bike in Portugal is not cheap due to the spares prices and to the lack of independent third party resellers.
Other potencial hazards on the road
Park you bike on sight, and during the night park it:
If you’re in trouble finding place to park your bike ask other bikers.
I am talking about medium sized and large cities. In small cities and villages you should get no problem. If you have a chain and lock always USE them.
What to do in case of accident or other hazard
If you have NOT been drinking, and if you think you are right keep calm and call the pigs, but ONLY if the other driver do not recognise his/her fault. If you are to call the police be sure to not remove your bike from the accident scene, otherwise you can have a surprise 8a bad one). First thing police is to do is to issue you both a ticket, but they will have a record of the accident that can be useful latter for your insurance company. Talking about insurance, make sure you sign some sort of insurance scheme that offers support in hazard case.
Get as much witnesses as you can and get them to be heard by the police. Just talk the strictly necessary to the other driver.
Fill in the insurance company forms. And hope/pray to be lucky!
Avoid at all costs trouble with Taxi drivers. A large number of them are off duty policeman. Off duty police in Portugal are allowed to carry guns. Need I say more?
If you’ve been drinking, do everything that you can to avoid police at the accident scene. They can show up and not interfere. They will only interfere if they are asked to by one of the parts involved. I’m not talking about big accidents, but on the occasional hazard with no injuries involved.
Nuts & bolts - spars and shoping
If you think you’re going to need spares, make sure there’s a representative office before you travel. Most of the European and Japanese makers have representatives in Portugal. HD also have! Spares can be achieved directly from the representatives or from small business. If you think you need specific information on this, I can look that up for you - just ask me via my personal e-mail: fiat.lux@earthling.net. Be patient for an answer, I may be busy.
SHOPING is also available through out. The country and great bargains can be obtained, as well as great mischievous deals.
We’re leaving here some phone numbers you might want to print out.
Representatives (when in Lisbon you wont need to dial 01)
As stated somwhere before, speed limits are as follows, except where roadsigns state otherwise: Motorways 120 km/h; country roads 90 km/h; cities 50 km/s. Enforcement in not very strict. Drinking and driving besides dangerous is forbidden. If caught you may get arrested, depending on the amount of alcohol. You’ll be brought to trial. Helmet use is compulsory even in cities. Minimum insurance is compulsory, as well as a legal permit. Bikes are widely used and accepted, as long as they do not cause unusual disturbances. Avoid loud pipes. Drug consumption is tolerated, but you cannot drive under the influence of drugs. Drug selling is forbidden by law and heavy punished. Solicitation is forbidden, but accepted.
You may be asked to pre-pay gasoline on some gas stations. In order to avoid this, always stop the engine, take of your helmet and gloves. Get out of the bike. If still, pre-payment is requested, go to another station if possible. If not, take as long as you want to make the owners life miserable. According to a statement from the "National Consumers Rights Organisation", pre-payment is illegal if discriminatory towards bikers. Always be polite, and remember that the clerk working there has little to do with is employer orders. He is only trying to keep is job. Stolen gasoline will be (illegally) taken out of his pay-check, by his boss, or at least many claim so. Yet, there are many things you can do to make it difficult for the gas station without really hurting the clerks positions. Just use your imagination.
Coming to Lisbon if you point of entrance was:
Choose N101 to Braga and Guimarães, from there you can get into the highway (A3), or keep on secondary beautiful roads. If you choose to take trhe IC1 instead be advised to expect heavy traffic.
Be careful with the IP5, it’s a dangerous road. When arriving to Celorico da Beira cut to Coimbra through the IC7. You can also come through th IP2 through Guarda if you like mountaineous roads.
Don’t miss Castelo de Vide and Marvão, it’s worth the detour specially the former. Head south to Portalegreand Estremoz where you can get into the A10, and the A2.
Rough piece of road just until Estremoz, then take the A10, and the A2.
Head to Beja, Ferreira and then to the IP1. A1 starts at Alcácer do Sal.
Take the IP1 (no gas stations) until Boliqueime, them head North on the same road.
and many more…
Road condition may not be good, improve your attention.