Maintenance
Projects and Problems
PROJECTS. Several readers have written in with impressive lists of the projects they've completed over the years. I've compiled them here and would be happy to add yours to the list so that other owners might have a point of reference should they need to embark on similar work. If other owners ask you about your projects, please copy me on your comments so I may incorporate them here and properly credit your sweat and genius to the online E32 community.
Meticulous Recordkeeper Jeff Lennox very kindly forwarded the Northeast Ericson Owner's Association's list of parts suppliers as of June 2000 [36k, Word format].
PROBLEMS. When I started this site in June of 1998 I thought it would be helpful to list everyone's to-do lists in the hopes that experienced owners would be able to advise each other on techniques and sources. I soon learned that keeping up with this is impossible, and a better, simpler medium exists for precisely this type of service. It's called an "email list" and the savvy denizens of sailnet.com have established such a list for just about every class of production sailboat you can think of. Click here for the Ericson list and sign yourself up. If you find it's too much email, you can sign up for the "digest version" which comes once a day. I also recommend the Atomic Four list.
Since Ericson pre-owners frequently ask about systematic problems with Ericson 32s, I have included a list of things to look out for in the Prospective Buyers section.
Older boats of any vintage can have concealed problems. I
would not consider the one below to be a systematic issue but
since the solution was covered so clearly by two other Ericson
owners, I thought it deserved some exposure.
From: <Magnevolt@aol.com>
To: <ericson-list@sailnet.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 4:58 PM
Subject: [ericson] Re: Chainplate Bulkhead Repair
Help!!! I have a 1972 E-32 that I have owned for 18 months. (Hull #298) I just discovered that the area under the entire port side chainplate is rotted. I have removed the chainplate and the rotten wood. I have spoken to two different yards and Pacific Seacraft (Robin). There seems two be two different ways to repair this problem.
1: Cut two "C" shaped plywood shapes about six inches wide. Then fiberglass them to each side of the bulkhead. Then glass them to the hull.
2: Remove the entire bulkhead and replace it with a new bulkhead and glass it to the hull.
Has anyone had any experience or thoughts on these two plans of attack, or do you have a third option. If you remove the bulkhead will the mahogany post support the mast? Are there any other safety concerns? etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Mark
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 19:13:02 -0700
To: <ericson-list@sailnet.net>
From: "Quinn McKenna" <QMckenna@larkcreek.com>
Subject: RE: [ericson] Re: Chainplate Bulkhead Repair
Mark,
I had the starboard side chainplates pull out of my 1980 E35. I was lucky not to lose the rig. The local yard quoted $5000 for the repair, which I simply could not afford, and naturally, insurance wouldn't cover it (they won't cover rot). Mine was more because there was a lot of cosmetic deck damage when the chainplate pulled out. So, I had no choice but to do it myself. It was not easy, but not exceptionally difficult. It was a little scary. I'd describe it as a long series of small steps.
First you need to remove the old bulkhead. You'll need to carefully take off the old trim (so you can reuse it). You will need to gain full access to the fiberglass tabbing that holds the bulkhead to the hull. On the E35 (starboard) this meant disassembling a berth and shelf and the hanging locker forward. It's scary, but straightforward. Then cut the tabbing as close to the hull as you dare. You'll have to grind it all flat eventually, and it is easier to cut than grind. I used one of those "cut-anything" wheels you can chuck into a drill. A Dremel tool might be good. Invest in a tyvek suit to keep dust off and a good respirator. You can also mount a window fan in the overhead hatch to suck dusty air out. Keep the old bulkhead in one piece if you can for reference. Once the bulk of the old bulkhead is out, grind off the old tabbing. You need to make a good bonding site for the new tabbing.
Now you need to fashion the new bulkhead. Making it the right size is the trick. I followed Dan Spurr's methodology for using a tick-stick in "Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat" (or something like that--I can find the correct title if you're interested). You could also make a posterboard copy of the old bulkhead and try to fit that in, make what modifications are necessary, then transfer the outline to your plywood. It doesn't have to be perfect--in fact, the inner edge will never be seen. I used 3/4 inch teak-faced marine ply. It costs $200+ a sheet when you're buying only one--which makes me suspicious of the response that quoted a $300 price for the whole job--but then everything in California is expensive.
One you have the bulkhead the way you want it, it needs to be glassed in. Use epoxy resin (spring for WEST System--it is a few more $ than the cheapest you can buy, but it is easy to work with and works correctly) and fiberglass cloth tape (I think it is 6 ounce). You need a pad between the edge of the bulkhead and the hull to prevent a hard spot that can lead to laminate damage in the hull. I used a strip of Styrofoam housing insulation material. I cut it in a trapezoidal cross section to support the fillets to follow. Epoxy coat the hull edge of the bulkhead. Set the bulkhead in the correct position (easy to write, hard to do). Clamp or support it, then glass it in. Once the glasswork is done, drill a couple of holes through the tabbing and through-bolt the bulkhead to be double-sure (suspenders and belt).
Then reinstall the trim and clean up. I can give you more specific advice if you choose this route. None of the steps required are beyond a handy boat owner, but the whole of the project is intimidating. There's no reason you can't come out with a repair no one will notice.
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 23:27:32 -0400
To: <ericson-list@sailnet.net>
From: "diehl" <caryon@gatecom.com>
Subject: Re: [ericson] Re: Chainplate Bulkhead Repair
About 10 years ago we had the C-splice done to our bulkhead on our ericson 32-2 by a yard... still holding up. Then this past year on our J/24 I replaced the entire main bulkhead. If you are going to do the job of removing a bulkhead here are some things that I would recomend:
Take everything out of the boat because it will become dusty. Close and seal all areas around your work area if possible with plastic to help control the dust.
Buy a Roto Zip.. and then a grinding bit for a die grinder... you will use the grinder bit to grind the old glass cloth that is holding the bulkhead in place. Then you can use the roto zip to cut out the new bulkhead and make your adjustments fairly fast too. Make sure its not the roto zip thats on a battery... you need the cord for constant power... Dont mess with a dremel, it wont have the power.
Once you get the bulkhead out trace it to cardboard... I went to the supermarket picked out some big boxes and duct taped them together so I had 1 flat sheet. I recomend making it so you can remove the outer edges and replace them with new pieces of cardboard if needed... Sometimes you come up short when you measure... Its nice to have the cardboard fit in... takes away the doubt if the plywood will fit.
For the plywood... be careful on the mahogony plywoods... It probaly wont have the finish that will match the other side of the boat when you are done. It may be easier to buy marine plywood (which has water proof glues in it) and then trim the bulkhead off with a piece of mahogony face to put over it... just use formica type glue to make it stick. This also covered the shims I ended up using to fill gaps in certain areas around the bulkhead. The shims were glassed in and made for a really tight fit.
As for the fiberglass use west system or the interlux epiglass... I switched recently from west to epiglass cuz it wont kill you as fast, it is less harmfull, more enviromentaly friendly, less odor, and so on. I still use west system's microballoons though. Also use a heavy cloth to attach the hull to bulkhead. The rotozip will help here to with a grinder/sanding disk it has that will make the areas rough for glass to stick.
As for to seal the ends of the bulkhead... only seal the top... not the bottom. That way any moisture that gets into the wood has an escape route with help from good old gravity. I leared on an old wooden boat I had to always leave the bottom edges of plywood unsealed to allow any water out.
Hope this helps and good luck,
Cary