© 2002 Will
The Details: Quite an impressive wall, with a fair distribution of climbs, starting with a short steep section with climbs 21-26, then some ok 13-18 slabs, and then the steeper L half, which is very popular these days now that it has so many sportroutes in the 19-24 range. Also has some very hard climbs. The grades of the climbs are mostly quite soft, so the chance to tick numbers and the short access are certainly the biggest drawcards.
Access: Easy 5 minute walk. From carpark at end of Centennial Rd go round gate and follow ex-4WD track to L end of cliff (facing out) and easily down chopped steps.
Described R to L, facing the cliff.
Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch 5m 18 (OS solo)
Good boulder move over roof then slabby jugs for 5m. Thats a 'route'?
** Hold on to Your Hats 17m 18 (OS)
Delightful. Lots of nice moves on positive crimps up a steep wall, with excellent pro. A bouldery start leads to a hard move past the first bolt, then up past #1 and #0.75 camalots. Crux past next bolt, then good climbing to lower offs. Recommended - and the two routes on the right look even better!
Trinity 18m 13 (OS)
The bolt positions weren’t thought out very well on this climb! The first bolt is just after the crux, and the chains shouldn’t have been put 2m back from the edge! Ok climbing, but watch out for those dinnerplates coming off!
* ? 18m 19 (OS)
Earns a star (just!) for the even difficulty but differing style of the bottom and top sections. The new route with shiny RBs. Pleasant moves lead to the RB, then delicate moves up the blank section, with only a slopy crimp for assistance. Doddle up to steeper headwall, then up past 2 RBs with a tough steep thin move protecting the top jugs.
* The Bandoline Grip 18m 16 (OS)
Just gets a star for the top but it's not 18! Cam to start, then one tricky move past the bolt. Run it out on easy ground, then another small cam to protect clipping 2nd bolt. A good section of climbing past the bolts leads to DRB.
* Country Special 18m 19 (YP)
Another one which barely earns a star. Up past cams to BB, then tricky over bulge to easy ground. Easy, but very run out climbing leads to small cam break. More steeply up past BB to jug on small flake, then pumpy moves past another BB to TRB (right hand ring is loose so use the other 2).
Pluck the Duck 12m 17 (YP)
Not bad, but it's only 17 because about 5 holds have broken off! Start just L of where the elevated ledge finishes, below a line of BB. Tricky start to pull into squat on nose using shallow pockets, then extend up to break (friend). Past BB to simple mantle on L, BB then into orangey rock, to crimp past final BB and up to chain below bush.
* Scramble Syndrome 15m 21 (RP)
Harder start now that the holds are gone! Nice to BB on bulge, staying to the right of the pin. Hard clip, sequency over bulge, then doddle to chains.
The routes on lovely orange rock start here.
* Girly Germs 18m 21 (RP)
Two good sustained sections at the grade. Shared start with Sexi Mexi (a 23 to the right). A tricky traverse to the flake, then up to tenuous 2nd clip. Crank crimps to step L to jugs, then a big move up and back R to the 3rd RB (can also go direct, from just R of the 2nd RB, but it's crimpy and probably 22). Easier section to 4th RB, then thin reachy moves up and left to slopy break, with a pumpy clip. Final sidepull crank gains jugs and DRB.
Flaming Flamingos 18m 20 (OS)
A very tricky thin move to gain good R hand crimp at the top of the small ironstone rib. An awkward second clip hanging on the bulge is followed by a dangerously long runout to the third RB - you will definitely deck if you fall here. Continue pleasantly to DRB.
Jack High 15m 19 (OS)
Good rock. Hard past the first bolt, then nice, slightly easier moves to more hard moves either side of last ring. Stiff for 19.
** Lardy Lady’s Lats 25m 22 (RP)
Onsighted this sucker past the crux, over the roof, then came off the final move! Bugger! Start at big pocket between JH and HF. Undercling pocket then crimpy sustained slab moves past first 3 rings, then another hard move in the lovely orange rock at 13m before gaining a short layback flake then big rest at break. Continue to second break and steep rock, step R to move up to jugs, then back L on med holds to next RB. R hand sidepull then (crux) L hand gaston, arrange feet, then to good crimp then juggy break. Latch jug in roof and easy pull to jugs on headwall, then a final obstacle, one smallish hold best used with a R toe on the lip (heelhooking will blow the onsight! ;-). Rap off DRB. (It's a * 18m 20 if you just do the slab and step R to DRB on JH).
** Hot Flyer 18m 20 (OS)
Best route I've done at Shipley Upper. Nice delicate slab moves to the second ring, then some good climbing to some more tricky moves at about 2 thirds height.
Weekend Warrior 18m 19 (OS)
Shared start and finish with Hot Flyer. After 1st RB traverse (crux) left 4-5m past 2nd RB - tricky clip off crimps and extremely poor feet. Good stance then up to good break below 5th ring. Good move off R hand crimp to a good sidepull, then sidepulling delicately for a few moves. Straightforward to DRB lower off. Hard 19.
© 2002 Will