My first stop in Syria is the Northern city of Aleppo. This city is famous for it's souqs (markets), museums and khans (caravanserais). It also has a massive citadel in the center of the city, surrounded by a dry out moat. Most of the buildings structure inside are in ruins, but the view from above is superb. I wonder how much change Aleppo has seen since it's heyday. A mix mash of buildings scattered with minerats and countless souqs snaking it's way towards the citadel. The souq are bussling with shoppers out on the hunt for a bargin. The variety of wares for sale are amazing. And the hawkers are quite a character. I met one kid who could really put on an Aussie accent, one whom speaks with a posh English accent and another whom act like a gay.

From Aleppo I caught a bus out to Hama, a town known for it's famous Norias (water wheels) and not much else. Apparently much of Hama was destroyed by the president Assad's after an uprising in the 80's so historically there isn't much left. Still there is an interesting old quarter to wonder through, along with it's interesting museum, housed in the old Azem Palace. I stayed at the Riad Hotel by the clock tower, it is a clean enough place to sleep in, but my God was it noisy! I was kept awake all night by the tooting of horns from the street below. It seem that each time the traffic light turns green all drivers starts honking away impatiently... Even at 4am in the bloody morning! I think the car horn in the Middle East are so overused that nobody ever heeds it anymore!

So I left Aleppo the next day in a sour mood. But drinking my daily juice lifted my spirit. It was another hot day and I was on my way to visit three ancient cities: Apamea and the lost cities of Serjilla and Al-Bara. A funny moment occured when me and my 2 Aussie companion arrived at the dusty village of Kafr Nabl, on the way to one of the dead cities. There was a 3 year old boy whom sprint pass us, but was so surprise to see a blonde girl in our group that he trip and crack his head on the pavement. The poor kid cried his eyes out, but wouldn't accept our assistance and ran off! I guess they really don't see too many foreigners out here.

Krak des Chavalier, describe by TE Lawrence as the 'finest castle in the world', is seriously breath taking at first sight. Perch on top of a hill, surrounded by the blue blue skies and it's massive granites glowing orange under the heat of the sun. This is one mighty fortress. Built in 1031 by the Emir of Homs and expanded by successive conquers, especially them Crusaders during the 12th Century. But like all castles inside it is dusty, smelly (from bat and bird droppings), full of cobwebs and devoid of all decorations.

I must say that Syria is definitely one of the most fascinating country in the Middle East. It's landscape are dotted by ruins, all of it easily accessible with enough perseverance. I also found Syria to be one friendly place. With lots of locals ready to help you out, and to come up and chat. It is so easy to meet the locals here, as everybody were curious about me! Syria's premier sight has got to be Palmyra. Built in the 2nd century, this oasis city sat in ruin in the middle of the desert for centuries before being rediscovered in 1678. The site is impressive, containing temples, Byzantine columns, monumental arches, funerary towers and agora (Roman forum), with lots and lots of rocks and ruins scattered across the 50 hectares of land. Palmyra is also has a great backpacker atmosphere, with a night life (what night life? ) base around the town's main drag. Each restaurant have their nifty comment books, which encourages travellers to stick their own personal memorabilia, which invariably leads to jokers sticking everything from their mugshot passport photos to unused condoms! Their advice and comments are a joy to read!