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As they say, reaching the summit is optional, climbing back down isn't. The climb down is typically easier than the climb up, but the Hunt Trail will definitely challenge that premise. The world drops away steeply at the top of the Hunt Spur. Here begins the 3.6 mile rockfall that includes the Hunt Spur, Boulder Field, and miles of "trail." What appears as distinctly different sections on the topo map is actually one long sloping stack of boulders, covered at lower elevations with some dirt and vegetation. Boulder hopping for several hours takes its toll and the trail register was a welcome sight. So was Angie's smiling face and a warm hug. 
In addition to the views and memories, Katahdin gave me a new philosophy on climbing. While studying the AT Thru Hiker's Logbook (not the regular logbook for mere mortals), I read the wisdom of an anonymous Thru Hiker and adopted it as my own: Climbing a mountain is a balance between exhaustion and restlessness. If you are exhausted, slow down. If you are restless, speed up.
After some water and an extremely short rest, we were off for Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. While Baxter and Mt. Katahdin are beautiful, it was nice to get back to the coast. Acadia's shoreline is like no other. Rocky crags and steep cliffs plummet to a deep blue ocean. This majestic tree stands guard over Somes Sound, the only natural fjord in the continental United States. Chowder and seafood in Bar Harbor before the grandeur of the setting sun capped off a perfect day. We both slept well that night and enjoyed coffee on our balcony at The Bluenose Inn overlooking the harbor.
Our exploration of Acadia National Park continued by sea out to Isle au Haut. Months earlier the trip had started to take shape around this one night. No successful trip to an island could begin without sampling the local clam chowdah in Stonington. Tides along this section 
of the Maine coast run 12 to 15 feet, adding to the challenge. No, we didn't have to row out to the island, but the only way to get to The Keeper's House on Isle au Haut is with a ferry crossing on the mail boat.
Isle au Haut has only 77 year round residents. The Keepers House has no electricity and no phone. Other than Alaska, the section of Acadia National Park on Isle au Haut receives fewer visitors than any other National Park. This place was made to unwind. We arrived in time to soak up the afternoon sun in adirondack chairs on the rocky bluff north of the lighthouse. The only sounds were the occasional seagull and the far away toll of the channel marker. Dinner featured lobster and crab crepes by oil lamp and ended just in time to set up this sunset shot. Our room overlooked the lighthouse and we fell asleep to the gentle breeze and roll of the Atlantic.
Fresh ground coffee was on at 6:00 and we explored the shore before breakfast. After the blueberry pancakes settled, we headed out for a tour of Isle au Haut on cruiser bikes. The "town" features a Post Office, one church, a general store, and dozens of fishing boats at the town pier. 
Our boat back to the mainland wasn't until 5:45 giving us plenty of time to relax and enjoy the tranquility of this beautiful Maine island. We returned to the Atlantic Cafe for dinner high above the Stonington harbor. The spectacular drive down 
the coast was enhanced by the moonlight and we made Freeport by 11:00 pm. After some last minute shopping at The North Face outlet store and a brief stop at the de Lorme factory, we beat it for Gloucester.
The trip ended with an afternoon sampling clam chowder and poking around the fishing boats and back waters of Gloucester. We had seen the touristy side of Gloucester a week earlier and now found the real Gloucester fleet, the real fisheries, and the real Rocky Neck Art Colony. This was the place Junger's Perfect Storm was filmed. The Crows Nest isn't much to look at, but it's the real deal. Seeing Gloucester in person lent reality to what can so easily seem like fiction. Today's marketing hype world tends to make events like the Perfect Storm seem commonplace. Standing there, watching the boats come and go, brought it into reality as the unique event it was. As we were quietly watching the fleet, a woman strode past and seeing my camera on its tripod said "I seen a lot of fishermen around here, but I never seen nobody takin' pictures of 'em." I suppose not. In closing, a public service: Our ranking of the top four clam chowder spots along our route. Give them a try. Thanks for reading.
- Moby Dick's, Wellfleet, Massachusetts (Cape Cod)
- Atlantic Cafe, Stonington, Maine
- Periwinkles Restaurant, Essex, Maine
- Captain Carlos, Glouceter, Massachusetts
