We decided that it was possible to drive the entire Pacific Coast Highway (PCH as the native-geeks call it) from Port Angeles, Oregon to San Diego, California in nine days. After looking at the fabulous things just east of the coast, we compromised and included a lot of the PCH, plus some very cool excursions to Olympic National Park, Mount Ranier and Mount Saint Helens. After that, it was coastal all the way.
We flew into Sea-Tac and awoke the next morning to a typical foggy Seattle day. After a bee line to Starbuck's, we got in line for the ferry over to Bremerton. Seattle's downtown harbor scene gave rise to the grunge movement and while it's definitely an interesting and diverse place, spending an hour waiting for the ferry does make one feel grungy.
We expected the Bremerton ferry ride to double as a cheap boat tour of what ever the bay is called and it would have if not for the pea soup fog. Driving up US 101 (aka PCH) toward Olympic National Park got us quickly out of the fog and into picture perfect weather for the rest of the journey. It's hard to tell what the highlight of Olympic was, but the natural mineral water at Sol Duc Hot Springs and the contrast between the towering Douglas Firs and the lush green ferns of the Hoh Rain Forest were very near the top of the list. Other than a few miles of alpine meadow hikes, we didn't spend much time on Hurricane Ridge.
Even though Mother Nature spared us the rain, She did provide us with a rainbow. This was the scene as we were leaving the Bear Cafe en route to the Hoh Rain Forest. Years ago on a family trip to this part of the country, Oddessy III I believe, we camped along the Hoh River. That experience left a lasting impression on me and twenty-some year later it had not lost its appeal. The Hoh River is a classic northwest river with smooth, flat stones forming bars along vast stretches. These smooth, flat stones make for perfect skipping and Angie and I spent an hour or so unbuilding those stone bars.
Seattle was foggy, but Mount Ranier was in the clouds. At 14,410 feet, Mount Ranier is only the fifth highest peak in the lower 48. Due to its latitude however, Mount Ranier sports more active glaciers than the rest of the United States combined (leaving out Alaska, of course). Our present criteria for attainable peaks are no ropes and no ice axe; summitting Mount Ranier requires both. Needless to say, we selected an alternate hike. Even though much of the mountain including the summit remained shrouded in mist, the views were spectacular. Maybe someday.
I was dying to include a photo of the devastation at Mount Saint Helens. Unfortunately, none fit the bill. This is a must see National Monument. The Visitor's Center sits directly in the blast zone and provides a vivid image of what went on back in 1980. There is a 27 mile trail that circumnavigates what is left of the mountain. Check back someday for a picture from that trail!
The rest of this journey was spend within a 7 iron of the Pacific Ocean. On our way to The Wharf Master's Inn in Point Arena, California, we stopped in Mendocino for dinner. This tired (it's more than sleepy) fishing community has an authenticity that more popular California coastal towns seem to lack. We highly recommend Cap'n Flint's Restaurant for fresh seafood.
The next few days included the Golden Gate Bridge, several crab salad sandwiches and bisque in sourdough bowls at Fisherman's Wharf, a few hours in Alcatraz (as visitors, thank you), and a trolley ride.
Our day on the Monterey Penninsula began with a brisk bike ride around the famous 17 Mile Drive. My calculations were that a round at Pebble Beach would run me $700, so all we did was stroll out onto the 18th and watch a few nervous tourists blade wedges into the ocean. Was I glad I didn't pony up the $700? No. Again, some day. No trip to Northern California would be complete with a visit to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, especially if you're a marine biologist. John Denver picked a beautiful place to land.
Eating is big with us, especially dinner. If you're ever in Monterey, eat at Fish Wife. I never figured out what the name means, but the food was outstanding. There was lots of seafood and quirky California-type items, all of which were tempting. That's us on the side walk. Back on the PCH (we feel like native-geeks by now) we drive through famous landmarks like Carmel-By-The-Sea, Big Sur, and Pismo Beach. This stretch of California coast is a spectacular as anywhere in the world. If you look closely, you can see us on that secluded beach. Or are we crossing the bridge in the distance? Or is that Angie riding the break off shore?
In Los Angeles we bought a map to the stars and spent a couple hours partying with Madonna, Ronald Reagan (my favorite President), OJ, and Rosemay Clooney. Actually we just turned around in Rosemary's driveway. Regrettably, our schedule did not permit a trip out to Catalina Island. I had originally planned to spend the night in Avalon.
On to San Diego the next day. No visit to San Diego would be complete without a stop at Dog Beach. They have everything there from the grungiest mutt to the leaping, frisbee-catching, bandana-wearing pooches you expect at a place called Dog Beach in Southern California. We shared dinner in La Jolla with cousins Brooks and Amy and enjoyed a relaxing final evening at their house before the long flight home. It's hard to believe we packed all that in to 9 days!
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