SHELTER CONTRUCTION NOTES Probe site with 5-7' rebar to test for rockiness. Know your trees (the ones you will be using for support beam/poles in your shelter) in terms of strength and how fast they rot. Have contingency plans for loss of "_____", this can cover poeple, places and things!! Avoid broken tools and repairs by having all tools in top notch condition with spares and parts if possible. Notes on Lobdell's round concrete shelter Have drain tile on outside & inside of perimeter or gravel w-w bed with drain. Have a condensate drain or resovouir & some device to collect condensate. A freezer (or two) as a heat source will raise the temperature to be able to use well water as a coolent for a condenser. Wood shelter Have a dip barrel (55 gal) for waste oil (crankcase oil)to dip the ends of the pole in. Put the barrel at an angle partially below ground with at ridge pole between two tripods to hold the other end of the pole up while soaking. Or bury the barrel 90 degrees in the ground and stand the poles on end, be sure to back fill and tamp to prevent toppling if in soft ground. MAJOR POINTS OF LOBDELL'S MODIFICATION TO KEARNEY'S POLE OVER TRENCH SHELTER: Main idea is for the shelter to last for several years rather than several months. This requires more work and materials. It is wider and longer, 6'x16'. One standard entrance, the other to be an escape tunnel/water drain/ sleeping area/additional shelter/ventilation. Polyethylene plastic sheeting wraps the walls and all pole surfaces to prevent wood rot and control humidity. Low density fill in the center of the shelter roof (under the earth arch) to reduce the load on the longer poles and to even out the force (failsafe) in case one pole fails. On the lengthwise sides of the shelter, place lengthwise poles (on the plastic) to rest the roof poles on. Use length wise poles on top of main crosswise roof poles for backup and to transfer more wieght to the larger cross poles and to contribute to the lower density in the middle of the roof. Note on the low density idea, you should have regular density (earth) on all parts of the shelter for your radiation protection. The idea of the low density is that a thick roof that has a protection factor of 10,000 in the center is wasted on a 200-300 PF design and too much weight for the increased length of log/pole. The escape/drain tunnel should have one or two 90 degree or so angles in it for better geometric protection from entrance radiation. Utilize the backhoe. It is worth the money in terms of time and attitude. If the ground stability is suitable, use double headed nails to hold up chicken wire on the shelter walls. Trowel in concrete onto the chicken wire and paint white. This is a common basement treatment in this part of North Carolina. This will work for dry clay, another good reason for locating your shelter at the top of a hill in addiation to the geometry for radiation. The painted surface will reflect light better reducing illumination needs, less primative looking more "normal", it is cleaner. Try to have a well in the main part of the shelter with full casing, lockable cover, and concrete around the top of the casing to prevent contamination. Seed earth with grasses and small plants native to region to hold earth, not attract attention, and for food for game. You will have to fertilize since the earth will be partially clay. You will have to have low spots in the roof in the dog-legs of the tunnel due to the backhoe not being able to make really sharp corners. However, a below grade roof for the entire tunnel is a good idea so that there is no unnatural hump or rise in the ground along the tunnels length (less conspicuous). Plant bushes around end of tunnel. Good book - Protecting Family & Livestock - Purdue Univ. Coop. Exten. Service, Layfayette,IND 47907. You need a strong shelter manager to enforce rules and rations. Establish a food/person, water/person ratio assuming the worse. Don't waste your ventilation on fires for cooking, use sand as a fire extingusher. Air requirments, KAP. Water requirements.