Lucy Luggage reports from Malta

Colourings by Caravaggio

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Malta

Malta? What must be the most common travel experience of an island nation inhabiting an archipelago of 316 sq km -the inevitable question mark following the inevitable Where do you come from? -illustrates a simple fact: The Maltese islands are tiny. While boasting a wealth of architecture , history and culture, this miniscule republic at the centre of the Mediterranean does not match up to its natural beauty and unique heritage in numbers. The population of 360.000 equals that of a medium-sized Western European city. Yet , amidst this laid back microcosm a thriving gay community is beginning to make its presence felt, increasingly putting Malta on the map as a gay destination, refreshingly different to the flashier, commercialised seaside resorts elsewhere. 

Tom bar is situated just outside the capital Valletta, with its baroque architecture and dramatic fortifications a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was here, in this city " built by gentlemen for gentlemen " that the Italian master Caravaggio found refuge under passion-induced circumstances, in the course leaving some of the finest 17th century works of art behind....Back to "Tom 's ". Housed on two floors overlooking the impressive Grand Harbour, the 300 year old building itself echoes the most eventful chapter of Maltese history. Believed to have served as a tax office for a bunch of noble men - more respectfully known as the Knights of Malta under whose reign and protection the islands prospered, battled, traded and feasted for almost three hundred turbulent years until 1798 - this intriguingly located venue by the port survived the poundings of World War Two only to become a bar and brothel soon afterwards.

Malta at that time was in the final stages of what had been yet another two centuries of foreign occupation, its livelihood as a British colony still heavily dependant on military spending. Picture that as largish sections of the population catering to Her Majesty's servicemen entire needs and you are half-way there. Today the secluded building with its morbid address on Crucifix Hill houses not only the most popular men's night spot on the island. A historic first amidst history's abundance, Mediterranean laissez - faire, Latin temperament and, as Gay Malta is concerned, a sense of individuality and life-style inspired by Northern Europe.

As in ancient times, when great powers and civilisations which dominated the Mediterranean over the centuries, left their mark on this strategic location, visitors play a vital role in contemporary Malta. Apart from the obvious contribution to the island's economy, the input of ideas, fashion and styles is particularly apparent in gay circles. Numerous amorous, social and other ties testify to this. However, there is one feature that sets the local crowd apart from its counterparts in the metropolises of this world. Gay Malta, much to the surprise of many a first-time visitor from the likes of Berlin, London and Amsterdam, is an intriguingly heterogeneous mixture of ages, backgrounds, life-styles and professions accounting - within its more traditional environs - for an astonishingly cosmopolitan feel.

Most visitors, gay or otherwise, find it hard not to feel at home in this laid back, yet lively atmosphere and an overwhelming number returns. Naturally, the fact that everybody is fluent in English and most boys have an inkling of at least one other European language, helps. At least in the inevitable verbal bit mentioned earlier. In touristic terms, Malta is as diversified as the growingly outspoken community which embodies its gay appeal. With the blessed Mediterranean climate and attractions ranging from pre-historic temples, baroque churches and grand palaces over yachting, diving and any other form of water sports to hotels, guest-houses, dining and entertainment facilities suitable to every budget and taste, Malta is an all-round destination, equally attractive to the five-star as to the low-budget traveller.

Particularly scenic spots include Gozo and Comino (Malta's two sister islands), practically the entire, predominantly rocky coastline as well as numerous secluded bays, bizarre caves, dramatic cliffs and popular as well as lesser known bathing spots. Whilst there is only one (unofficial) nudist beach, romantic locations are plentiful, and for those who prefer clubbing and cruising to natural beauty, there is ample choice. Concentrated in the St. Julian's and Sliema area, which is only a ten minute drive away from the capital, there are Casinos as well as numerous bars, clubs and discotheques amounting to vibrant and diversified nightlife.





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