The following abbrevations are used throughout the book:
K. - Knit
P. - Purl
Ch. - Chain
S. C. - Single Crochet
D. C. - Double Crochet
Tr. C. - Treble Crochet
Tog. - Together
Sl. St. - Slip Stitch : Knitting Version,
Crochet Version
M. M. - Milimeter
St. - Stitch
Y. O. - Yarn Over
To Cast On stitches to knit:
Make a loop, allowing enough yarn to make the number of sts. you wish to cast on,
slip it to a knitting needle, loop short end of yarn over the left thumb, hold long end of
yarn over first finger of the left hand, * insert needle in loop on thumb from left to right
and knit a stitch with the long end of yarn.
Repeat from * until you have the number of stitches required.
Holding the needle containing the sts. cast on, in the left hand, insert
other needle in front of 1st loop, with point behind work. Throw yarn over point of
right-hand needle, draw through loop, dropping loop from left-hand needle.
Row 2- Turn work, taking it in the left hand and proceed as on first row.
Insert needle in front of loop on left-hand needle, with point in front of work. Yarn must be in front of work. Throw yarn over point of right-hand needle, draw through loop, dropping loop from needle at the same time.
Take it from one needle to the other without knitting.
To Decrease:
Knit 2 sts. together.
To Increase:
Knit 1 st., but do not slip st. off left needle, now insert needle in back of same st., draw yarn through, slip st. off left needle.
To Bind Off:
Knit 2 sts., * pass the first st. over the second st., knit another st., repeat from *.
To Work Even
means to work without increasing or decreasing.
Stars
used (**) indicate that work described between them is to be repeated unless otherwise instructed.
A Row
in knitting is to knit across the needle.
A Rib
is 2 rows.
Means to bring the yarn under the needle, forward, the over needle, backward, ready to K. the next st. This makes an extra st.
Knit Plain
Means to knit every row.
Stockinette St.
K. 1 row, P 1 row, alternately. On Circular Needle - or sock needles - knit continuously.
Ribbing:
Ribbing is made by knitting and purling sts. on same side of work and on the reverse side always purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled stitches of previous row.
Moss St.
K. 1 st., P 1 st., on an uneven number of sts. On even number of sts. start every other row P. 1 st., K. 1 st.
Joining Yarn:
Join the new ball of yarn at the begining of a row by kntting the two ends together.
Make a loop on hook, * yarn over and draw through loop, repeat from * for length desired.
Make a Ch. the length desired, turn, insert hook in 2nd Ch.
from hook, draw yarn through, yarn over, and draw through both loops on hook.
Repeat in each st. of Ch. to end of row.
Next row - Ch. 1, turn * insert hook in top of next st., taking up both threads,
draw yarn through, yarn over, and through both loops on hook. Repeat from * across
row.
Make a Ch. the length desired, turn yarn over, insert hook in
4th ch. from hook, and draw yarn through, having 3 loops on hook, yarn over, and
through 2 loops, yarn over and through the 2 remaining loops.
Next st. - * Yarn over, through next st., yarn over and through 2 loops, yarn over
and through last 2 loops, repeat from * to end of Ch.
Row 2 - Turn, Ch. 3, yarn over, insert hook in the top of the 2nd D.C. of preceeding
row, taking up both threads and work same as Row 1. The Ch. 3 counts as 1 D.C.
Make a chain the length desired, turn yarn over twice, insert hook in 5th chain from hook, draw yarn through, having 4 loops on hook, yarn over and through 2 loops, yarn over, through 2 loops, yarn over, through last 2 loops.
Insert hook in next st., yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
To Increase
1st. work 2 sts. in same st.
To Decrease
1st. work 2 sts. together as 1 st., or skip 1 st.
Beading
for elastic at top of skirt: Attach yarn, Ch. 5 * skip 2 sts., D.C. in next st., Ch. 2, repeat from * around.
Casing for elastic:
Work 1 row S.C. around top of skirt, * Ch. 5, skip 2 sts., 1 slip st. in st. 1/2 inch below next st. on wrong side of work, Ch. 5, skip 2 sts., 1 S.C. in next st. at top, repeat from *.
To Make a Picot Edge:
* Ch. 4, 1 S.C. in first st. of Ch., 1 S.C. in each of the next 3 sts., repeat from *, across edge of garment.
If heavy buttons are used, sew to tape placed in back of work to prevent sagging.
Be sure you buy enough yarns of the same lot number to complete your garment. The instructress will gladly help you decide the proper quantity. It is impossible to dye two lots of yarn to exactly the same shade, and in the time that elapses between your first and second purchases, your dealer may have exchaustedhis first lot.
It is most important that the correct size needle called for in all directions be measured according to the Minerva Gauge for M.M. Needles and Boye Gauge for steel needles. Your work should be done at a tension that will allow stitches to slip easily on the needle. If you knit or crochet very tightly use a half size larger needle or hok, or if loosely, use a half size smaller needle or hook, other-wise your garment will not work out the size mentioned in the instructions.
Needle Gauge Comparisons
Minerva Millimeter Sizes are listed below, showing the closest available sizes in other gauges.
Should you desire a yarn for other than that called for in the instructions, consult the groupings below. For example: If a garment pictured in this book calls for Minerva Knitting Worsted, any other yarn listed in the same Group with Minerva Knitting Worsted can be substituted and the same instructions used.
INTERCHANGEABLE- Group No. 1
Knitting Worsted
(4 fold) 1 3/4 oz. About 152 yds. to ball.
For sweaters for men, women, and children.
Sliver Mixes
(4 fold) 1 5/8 oz. About 127 yds to ball.
For sweaters, sport suits, dresses, scarfs and hats and hooked rugs.
INTERCHANGEABLE- GROUP No. 2
Velveen
(2 fold) 2 oz. About 300 yds to ball.
For suits, dresses and sweaters for women and children.
Lustre Flake and Lustre Flake Heathers
(1 oz.) About 115 yds. to ball.
For suits, dresses and sweaters for women and children.
Silver Crepe
(2 fold) 1 oz. About 125 yds to ball.
For suits, dresses and sweaters for women and children.
Lustre Crepe
(2 fold) 1 oz. About 118 yds. to ball.
For light weight sweaters, dresses, scarfs, and infants' garments.
INTERCHANGEABLE- GROUP No. 3
Lustre Wool
(2 fold) 1 5/8 oz. About 227 yds. to ball. (Also 4 oz. skeins)
For light weight sweaters, dresses, and scarfs.
Shetland Floss
(2 fold) 1 oz. About 157 yds. to ball (Also 2 oz. skeins)
For light weight sweaters, dresses and scarfs.
Olympic
(3 fold) 1 oz. About 140 yds. to ball.
Sport yarn for men, women, and children.
Zephyr Floss
(2 fold) 1 oz. About 193 yds. to ball.
For infants' garments, afgans and shawls.
Lustre Crepe Heathers
(4 fold) 1 oz. About 144 yds to ball.
For suits, dresses and sweaters for women and children.
YARNS THAT CANNOT BE INTERCHANGED
Dusteen
2 oz. About 153 yds. to ball.
For suits, dresses and sweaters.
Boucle
1 oz. About 85 yds to ball.
For suits and sweater for women and children.
Germantown Zephyr
(4 fold) 1 oz. About 105 yds. to ball.
For infants' garments and couch afgans and crib blankets.
Saxony
(2 fold) 3/4 oz. About 250 yds. to ball.
For baby sacques, caps and stockings.
Saxony
(3 fold) 3/4 oz. About 165 yds. to ball.
For baby garments and fine wool stockings, and ladies' sweaters.
Saxony
(4 fold) 3/4 oz. About 125 yds. to ball.
For baby garments and fine wool stockings.
Vicuna
(2 fold) 1/2 oz. About 105 yds. to ball.
For light weight sweaters, dresses, children's garments and trimmings.
Fuzette
(3 fold) 1/2 oz. About 41 yds. to ball.
For all purposes where a brush yarn or angora is desired.
Pompadour
(2 fold) About 210 yds. to ball.
For infants' garments.
Spanish Worsted
(4 fold) 1 3/4 oz. About 229 yds. to ball.
For stockings and gloves.
Tapestry Yarn
(4 fold) 1 oz. About 88 yds. to skein.
For background tapestry work.
Ombre
(4 fold) 1 oz. About 96 yds. to ball.
Blended hues for afgans.
Worsted Rug Yarn
(4 fold) 1 oz. About 26 yds. to skein.
For cross-stitch and hooked rugs.
Scotch Sports Yarn
(3 fold) 4 oz. About 280 yds. to skein.
For suits, coats, sweaters for men, women, and children.