Caring for Vintage Textiles - Stain Removal, Whitening & more

Treat stains promptly. Fresh stains are easier to remove than old ones. Take non-washables to the dry cleaner ASAP.
When treating, place stained area face down on a clean paper towel or white cloth. Apply stain remover to the underside of the stain, forcing stain off the fabric surface instead of through it.
Pre-treat stains with Shout or Spray 'n Wash. I prefer using Palmolve dishwashing detergent (more pH neutral) on stains. Dab a drop on a stain and brush into fibers with a soft toothbrush.
Greasy stains, such as oil and butter, need to be covered with an absorbent, such as salt or cornstarch, then followed with a combination solvent like Shout or Spray 'n Wash.
Launder your washable fabrics in the hottest water they can bear, but always soak vintage textiles in cool water first.
NEVER soak or wash vintage textiles in a washer. Use your bathtub or a large rubbermaid storage container.
Always try and test stain removers on a hidden or less noticable part of the item for color fastness on dyed or printed fabrics. To test, apply product and let stand 2-5 minutes, then rinse. If color changes, do not use product.
NEVER dry any vintage fabrics in the dryer. In the summertime, lay fabrics on grass to sun-bleach. Clothesline drying in the sun will also whiten whites. Always layer a diaper on the clothesline to prevent new stains and double large fabrics such as tablecloths over the line instead of hanging from corners. Use care when lifting wet linens. The weight may case unnecessary stress on the textile fibers. When soaking a delicate piece, line the container (usually my bathtub) with a layer of clean cheesecloth and use this cloth as a means of lifting the other.
Do not starch any fabric prior to storage as it will yellow fabric. Do not fold any fabric prior to storage as it the fold marks will weaken fabric. Roll fabric and store in non-acid paper or plastic.
Want to store something you cherish? Roll fabric and place in a large glass container and seal or purchase archival tissue paper and archival storage containers.
Chlorine bleach weakens and destroys textile fibers. Chlorine bleach should ONLY be used, highly dilluted, in extreme circumstances when all other methods have failed to yeild the desired results.
ALWAYS rinse fabrics until the rinse water is clear enough that you would drink it. Residual detergent will yellow fabrics.
Resist the temptation to soak too many items at once. Add only an amount of textiles so that there is plenty of circulation in the container - Less is better and will yield better results!
Have patience; it takes a little extra time and effort to remove some stains. Remember, some stains cannot be removed.

Recipe #1 for non-vintage whites only

In your rust free washer or bath tub add the following
1/2 to 1 cup bleach,
1 cup lemon Cascade,
1 cup vinegar,
1 cup baking soda
1 cup sea salt.
Add cool water if you have a red wine stain, otherwise add hot water, agitate or stir with long wooden or plastic spoon and stop.
Add whites, agitate and stop again.
Let soak for 24 to 72 hours then wash as normal.
For smaller batches, use the recipe above and decrease amounts to 1 to 2 tablespoons.
For vintage whites, use recipe above and omit the bleach.
For vintage lace and very delicate items, soak in 2 cups sea salt & 1 cup vinegar to 3 gallons cool water. Soak and rinse until water is clear. Repeat the recipe above if any staining remains.

Recipe #2 for colors (non colorfast)

In your rust free washer or bath tub add the following:
1 cup vinegar,
1 cup baking soda,
1 cup sea salt,
1 scoop Oxi Clean,
1 scoop Clorox Oxygen Action
1/4 cup lemon Cascade.
Add hottest water possible recommended by product label. (usually warm or cold) agitate or stir with long wooden or plastic spoon and stop.
Add colors, agitate and stop again.
Let soak for 24 to 72 hours then wash as normal.
For smaller batches, use the recipe above and decrease amounts to 1 to 2 tablespoons.
Repeat the recipe above if any staining remains


How To Season Cast Iron Cookware

I grew-up with my Granny cooking in cast iron cookware and now I rarely use anything but. This is how I season them.
Be sure any that any adhesive labels and/or tape is completely removed. Wash, rinse and dry the item.
Grease the inside surface with a solid shortening such as Crisco, a light coating is all that you need. Put your greased item in a preheated 300°F oven for 1 hour. Remove the item and wipe it until it is almost dry to eliminate any pooled grease. Put it back in the oven for another half hour or so, and remove it and allow it to cool completely.
The more you use cast iron the more seasoned it becomes. Especially if you cook fatty foods or in the case of a waffle iron just a tad of butter before you make the waffles.
Never use soap or other detergents and don't use a scouring pad. This will break through the protective layer you have worked so hard to acquire. Hot water and a sponge or dish cloth is all that you need to clean a piece of properly seasoned cast iron.
If things begin to stick to the pan when you cook it is time to re-season the pan.


How To Clean Rusted & Old Cast Iron Cookware

For one item or a couple of small items, begin by spraying the pan with oven cleaner and putting it in a plastic bag. The bag keeps the cleaner from evaporating and allows it to work longer. After a day or two, take it out of the bag and scrub it really well with a brass or wire brush. Removing mild rust can be done with a fine wire wheel on an electric drill or Dremel type tool and crusted rust can be dissolved by soaking the piece in a 50 percent solution of white vinegar and water for a few hours. Don't let it soak in vinegar for more than 12 hours or it could eat through the cast iron.