6am PJ
Gusty North wind held up takeoffs, making for late drops, but once you were on the ride was a rollercoaster longboard wave.
6am again, pre surf pic.
9am post surf pic, more light, more swell, more cajones.
Post sesh 3 surf pic 5pm. Cleaner wave conditions made for long rides for the few who caught them, large crowd though. A kid paddled past me with a fin embedded in the deck of his stick near the tail. A longboarder ran him over and sliced clean through half this kids board, leaving him with a souvenir!
I'm done for today, 3 sesh's, 6 hours, alot of duck dives and a good number of waves, it's time to eat drink and be merry!