I like to create my bmp's for DC by using MSPaint. I import the picture into MSPaint and
trace over the picture. For complete instruction on how I do this download the handout.
Feel free to download my handout for the Viking's Cross Stitcher. However you
cannot copy or reproduce this handout in ANY way!! To do so would be in violation of
copyright laws. Violator's will be prosecuted.
I could not survive without this screencapture program. I use it just about everyday
whether working on my webpage or in one of the cross stitch programs. It is especially
useful for those of you using Uli Tessel's beta version of his cross stitch program. I
have also found it useful to use with the new PatternMakerPro for Machine Embroidery too.
Download the handout but again the above mentioned applies here too concerning copyright
laws and this handout.
I purchase these at Lowe's. Yes I have had to replace mine so I know this is the correct size. The cost is about $2.00 for 2 in a bag. Item#, 833152, Qty, 2, Lot# H0329663, DESC Metrix Hex Nut, M3-0.50, Sku # 0823644014
As a general rule I use stick it paper for all extra thick materials and stretchy materials. It is also not a bad idea to put an extra sheet of a cut away or tear away underneath the hoop before you start to stitch. The reason I do this is for a thin stretchy material the extra stabilization will help to keep the material from puckering if the design has lots of detail. My belief is to stabilize proper the first time around to achieve the best results. In comparasion to what we have paid for our machine's and software what's the cost of an extra sheet of stabilizer? Not much is it?
I can't stress enough about proper stablization. I always tell my classes to
think about what they have already spent for the machine and the software. Now wouldn't
you want to properly stablize to achieve the best embroidered results the first time
around? I don't know about you but I don't like to have to resew a design or spend hours
removing a design because of inproper stabilization. If you don't see the type of material
you are wondering how to stabilize e-mail and I will add that type of material below.
e-mail me at skippy@skippypickett.com Below
is just a general rule of thumb of how I stablize myself. In no way am I saying my way is
the right way and will not be held liable if you try my way and the design does not stitch
out properly.
Stretchy materials- stick it paper with another sheet of a
cut away or tear away underneath. (Note: if you use a tear away be
very careful when removing the excess tear away stablizer.) If
the material has a high pile I use a water soluble on top also.
Thick materials-stick it paper with sometimes another sheet of stabilizer as mentioned above underneath. If the material has a high pile on top I use a water soluble on top also.
Denim and similar material-I will normaly use stick it paper myself. However you can also hoop this material without stretching it. I would use a med weight cut away or tear away stabilizer. This is a personal preference and with the arthiritis in my hands I tend to use sticky paper as much as I can. Also, as mentioned above if the material has a high pile use a water soluble on top.
Tulle's and similar material-For this type of material I would use a water soluble underneath as well as on top. Usually a couple of sheets on both sides is sufficent.
Creating Lace-When I have created my own lace I have used 3 sheets on top and bottom. This has worked for me.
<<I see you alot on the list so I hope you don't mind me emailing you.Just
one question ok,I bought the pes2 and was wondering what software would
be best to use with it?
Thank You So Much
Sandy Jess>>
Sandy the PES2 is the box that allows you to transfer the designs from the computer
to the card to take to your machine to stitch out, right? I'm not real fimiliar with this
box since I didn't sit in on the class for it. However if I'm not mistaken I thought it
came with some software that you must use in writiting the designs to the card. Is this
right? If so then I would think all you need to view the designs is a program like Buzz
Tools Plus or Smart Sizer Gold. However if it was me I think I would purchase Buzz Edit.
That way you will have the ability to alter, manipulate the designs, and import more than
one design at a time to create another design. With Buzz Edit you will also be able to
save the design in the format you will need to write to the box. Well all formats except
the .art format I believe.
Bobbin nests? some things to try...
Bobbin nests are such a nusiance. I have some suggestions that
"sometimes" work for me.
1-First I always check for burrs on the throatplate. By taking your finger rub the tip
over the area where the needle moves in and out of the bobbin area. If you feel some
jagged edges take a emmory board and smooth them out.
2-Remove the throatplate and clean the inside of the bobbin case out. Sometimes lint and such collect inside the case area and can cause thread nests too. Take a small brush, usually one comes with the machine, and clean the area out. Also I take a can of the air and carefully blow the area out too.
I can't say enough about this wonderful program. It is a must have whether you digitize your own designs or purchase designs only. Within this program you can delete, insert, rotate, flip, resize, stretch, do a color sort to put all the "out of place" colors together(note: make sure the color is not out of order for a reason-sometimes a color is out of place because it is being used as an overlay for an different effect), move the colors to where you want them with just clicking on the color and dragging. You are able to copy and paste only the parts of a design that you wish to stitch out into another workspace. You can visually see the design as it would stitch out on your embroidery machine. For some of the jump stitches you are able to create a running stitch and hide that stitching under another part of the design. The possiblitlies of this program are just endless depending on your imagination! When rotating or flipping you are able to rotate or flip the designs to almost anywhere within the workspace. The program will split a design into mulitple files depending on the hoop of your choosing. It does support the Hoop-it-All's too. All formats can be imported except the .art format. The retail price is only $149.00 and can be purchased directly from www.buzztools.com. Don't forget to check out Buzz Tools Plus also.
Buzz Tools Plus..some of it's features...
Buzz Tools Plus is a program used to catalog and view all those designs that you have purchased or downnloaded off the interent. The program reads all embroidery formats except the .art format. It allows you to view the designs while still zipped which saves space on your hard drive. Within the program you can do a batch conversion quickly. Also it will unzip those files and if you want either save or delete the zipped file. The program also allows us to open a design that we are viewing within BTP in our embroidery software after you have made the necessary settings. One thing I like best about this program is the ability to add keywords to a design which makes it easier to find later on when you need the design. It goes very fast while performing the search also. I was amazed at the speed of the program while performing a text search with over 10,000 designs! It may take you a little extra time to type in the keywords but in the long run it will save you lots of time when you need to find a particular design. Ask me how I now...gggggg. This is another program I wouldn't be without. The MSRP is $99.00 and this too you can purchase directly from www.buzztools.com.
You must have a unzipping program to unzip a file. There are many on the market as well as many that you can download from the internet for a free trial period. I personally use WinZip. You can do a search on the internet to locate many of the unzipping programs. To me the easiest unzipping program is WinZip. I'm sure there are many others out there that are easy too. When I unzip a file I just click on the file that I want to unzip and drag it ontop of the WinZip icon that is located on my desktop. I also sometimes will click my right mouse button and a pop up screen appears. That way I have more control over where I want the file to unzip to. I can remember when I first starting using WinZip and had the most problems with it. If you are new to unzipping don't be discouraged. I believe we all have been there, done that too. VBG....Sometimes some websites use a certain unzipping program that you must have that particular software to unzip the file. I like it when everyone use's an unzipping program that does not require a certain program to unzip the file. It just makes it much easier for all of us not to have to download another program just to unzip a couple of files.
PatternMakerPro for Machine Embroidery...some of it's features
If you love to cross stitch or the look of cross stitch then this program is a must for you! The thing I love about this program and the BBD software is that you only have to create the design one time and you have it for life! Once you have completed the design store it in a safe place on a floppy or cd. PMP for ME in my opinion the best xstitch program on the market. Yes I helped beta test it and made many many suggestions for hobbyware.com to add to the program. Oh, I just can't say enough about this program either. Of course it has all the basic features that other xstitch programs have but this program has features that the others don't. Some of them are the free hand draw stitch can be used to snap to grid or to draw "free" hand backstitch lines. When you import a graphic image into the program it does an awesome job converting the image to a xstitch pattern. You don't have to settle for the design being smaller than it was supposed to be because when you export the design this program will automatically split the design and add an alingment line! You don't have to be a genuis to use this program either. I was very clear to the company that many of us don't like to read the manual. By the way the manual is written very well too. Therefore I wanted to see as much as possible put on the menu bar so that we wouldn't have to go looking for a feature. You have the option of choosing the size of the design by either the hoop size of the actual stitch count of the design. Please don't be afraid of having to re-hoop a large design. If a color is out of order all you do is click on that color and drag it to wherever you want to place the color. Hobbyware has made this so easy for us. To read more about it and to purchase this program directly from them go to www.hobbyware.com. I have created many xstitch designs with the program and they stitch out so beautifully too.