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September 4, 2005 - Landing in Istanbul, Riding the Dolmush to Yusufeli, Climbing 196 Steps up the Alley to the Kochk Otel


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We arrived at Lod Airport. My backpack was not really heavy. At the check-in counter for Turkish Airline in Lod Airport I stood behind a young couple that was also going to Erzurum. They look so fit in their hiking shoes, backpacks, and shorts... I felt awkward for a second, asking myself, what am I doing here? Don’t I look ridiculous with my Gregory Forrester backpack? But it was a very short second. There was not going back. We are going to do it! Five years? We will see.

Inside the plane there was a group of Israelis, our age, that were going on an organized tour to Turkey; they were following their guide like a herd. Thank God for Benny.

On the plane I sat next to Eyal from Kibbutz Daliah, he is also going to Barhal, camping and trekking.

From Istanbul we took a domestic flight to Erzurum, in North-Eastern Turkey. A Turkish man sat next to me, I could not breath. When we arrived at the airport, he helped us with a taxi to the bus station. All five of us took the Taxi: Eyal, Inbal and Roi, (the Israeli couple), Benny and I. I was going to put the seat belt on but the driver signal me “no need”.

At the bus station I had my first orientation to the Turkish toilet: a hole in the ground, a ground level faucet and a pitcher. No toilet paper. Cost, 250,000 grush, it is 1/4 of a lira, about 18 cents.

From here we are taking a dolmush to Yusufeli. Dolmush is a mini-bus and the word means full. It leaves when it is full. At the ticket office we were served with hot tea.

We got on the dolmush to Yusufeli. Everyone had an assigned seat. There was a driver and a conductor who made sure that everyone sat on their assigned seat and he also sprinkled lemon colon on the passengers’ hands. It was a fresh fragrance, very pleasant. The mini-bus is clean, with comfortable rugs, but the front window is cracked. The road to Yusufeli is beautiful, surrounded by high peaks, beautiful mountains, rushing rivers and water everywhere. On the narrow road we passed a truck that was overloaded with sacks of something (probably cotton) and it was tilting from side to side. In another car, next to the driver there were two mothers, one was holding a baby, the other one was holding a baby and a child. The child was hanging from the window. We passed another mini-bus and people were sitting on the roof.

We decided to start our trip in Turkey at the northeastern part of the country and enjoy the Kachkar Mountains before it gets too cold. From there we will go south and make our way toward the west and have the grand finale in Istanbul.

Our destination is Barhal, which is located on the Kachkar Mountains. However, there is only one bus that leaves at 2:00 pm to Barhal. We will have to spend the night at Yusufeli and catch the dolmush tomorrow.

At the Yusefeli bus station we were met by a tout, young man of about 22, He was waiting at the bus station for new arrivals and was offering his balcony for camping for 4 TL. Eyal, Inbal and Roi followed him; we were going to the Kochk Otel. (Otel= Hotel). Crossing the bridge, up the alley, 196 steps, and a dirt road. Our room is large with a large bathroom. Thirty millions liras, breakfast is included.

We are the only guests in the otel. We found out later that most travelers stay at the Green Peace Campground.

Kochk Otel, is hanging on a cliff, overlooking the river and the village. It is a breath taking view from our room. The river is gushing below, sounds like pouring rain.

At the first floor there was a restaurant and a bar. During the night loud music came from the bar. I went down to see what was going on and was attacked by a cloud of cigarette smoke. Young couples inside were drinking, smoking, girls in western cloths. Down below at the village, everyone was wearing traditional cloths, but often you can spot western cloths under the outside garments.

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