Grim's Flogging FAQs
Used here with permission.
Distribution Policy
Comments, ideas and constructive criticism always welcomed. As with all of my postings, any archivist is welcome to copy and distribute this story appropriately without let or hindrance, provided that the distribution is free of charge and the entire posting remains intact and unedited.
Disclaimer of a legal sort
Striking the human body must be considered dangerous. As I am neither a medical nor a legal professional, the following is offered as my opinion only, not a recommendation for any activity. Nothing can possibly replace personal experience and learning directly from those who have been there before. There are now workshops and demonstrations available in larger cities, avail yourself of one. I have no control over the use of this information, use it at your own risk. And as ever, proceed with caring.
WITH WHAT?A 'flogger' shall remain for the moment 'any flexible many-tailed striking tool where the tails are simple strips of leather or similar substances, designed for use on the human body'. In short, not bullwhips, braided cat-o-nines, crops, scourges, thudtoys and such, simply floggers. A braided cat is similar to a flogger in many respects, yet has a distinct 'feel', both these and floggers with knotted ends are left for another discussion.
As floggers were less available in former days, many people made their own in various styles and weights. Even if you are not doing so, some basic principles of design might help you select a superior one from the regrettably large supply of the other sort. I shall not include specific designs, the subject has been done to death before, and they are readily available elsewhere. As Janet Heartwood has provided excellent information in her 'Heartwood Catalog', I have used a similar format in my materials listing below. Although I have not ordered from her and can give no opinion, her wares seem well received among posters here.
(aside from Domina-"My next three floggers will be Heartwoods")
Design notesFor any given force, the smaller the contact area that force is concentrated in, the greater the potential for damage. Think of a knife edge as the extreme case. This is why quality flogger tails have rounded edges and tips; although sharp edges require less work and are less expensive, rounded edges are preferable.
The wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced through the air, and again, the more lands at once on the skin. As a general rule for the same material, thin tails 'sting', wide tails 'thud'. Thin, rounded thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat tails, for example.
If all things are equal, the more tails a flogger has, the slower it travels, and the longer the tails are, the more leverage is gained. Both of the above make a flogger heavier, but the longer tails can make it disproportionately more difficult to control, therefore many of the 'standard' floggers have tail lengths between 15 and 22 inches. It is possible to do quite interesting things with a long flogger, such as laying it down an entire back at once, but this is not recommended for beginners as it can take serious practice to do well. Very short floggers have special uses for close work, one nipple at a time, that sort of thing. Floggers with perhaps 15 to 25 tails are average, twice that makes a heavier version of the same design.
For safety, flogger tails must remain fixed to the end of the handle; this region is where the most stress occurs in use. A good covering knot will help reduce this strain, and keep the tails together. The handle must work with your hand, not against it, neither too large nor small for a proper grip, and a knot or swelling near the end of the flogger serves to prevent slippage. Short handles are better for control, longer handles provide more leverage. The weight of the handle must feel 'right' with the tails [something one must feel, not read about. If the sellers will not allow a cautious swing of prospective purchases, find another shop].
Beyond weight, width and length, the materials matter most. I have personal experience only with the following, perhaps others may share their knowledge as well. A selection from the below provides a range of severity and feelings from 'did you start yet?' to 'Omigod!'. Again in general, the softer and lighter the material, the safer it is [the harder/longer it may be used without risk], and the softer it feels. As ever, *the RESPONSIBLE TOP TESTS each implement on himself/herself before it touches a bottom, and checks for breakage or other safety problems before each use.*
Material List- An ounce or two of loosely twisted cotton wool in a pillowcase folded lengthwise - this and the next two have been useful for those with no experience with flogging, yet much interest. Quite safe, I originally tested mine by repeated strikes to my own face with no effect.
- Chamois - a more permanent version of the above, a 3/8 inch tail width 20-tail is a specialized tool for flogging either a complete novice or one who prefers nearly no sensation. Noise, a very light skin-level sensation, and nothing else, tested as above. Of course it may also cause hir to look back at you and ask if that is all you plan on doing....
- Fabric - silk and other softer fabrics can be made into floggers. Avoid fraying of edges by sewing the fabric into closed tubes, ironing each tube flat, then sewing the flat sides together along the long axis. Similar to chamois, more decorative colors available, and many fabrics are washable.
- Deerskin - soft and caressing, a tiny bit of sting, a bit of thud, and little else. Unless one is hitting exceptionally hard, a deerskin flogger can be used for a very long time without any notable skin reactions beyond a light flush. My personal favorite for light play or the less experienced.
- Light Nylon Cordage [1/8 inch diameter for a start] - Take 15 loops 34 inches long [circumference], tying them together in a knot at one end. Cut the other end [tail length now perhaps 15 inches], fray the cut ends and attach to a handle. Two sensations, a very light one from brushing with the tips alone, and a heavier one from the non-frayed section. Simple to clean, quite inexpensive, and different weights of cord are readily available.
- Elkhide - heavier than Deerskin, yet soft and compressible, almost entirely thud. A lovely flogger for a slow building scene, very easy to relax into, and can be used with astonishing force with little risk of harm.
The next three are varieties of cowhide, the 'standard' leather. These are not specific cuts or tanning terms, but are classes of weight and type.
- Suede - in the lighter varieties, slightly harder than Elk, in the heaviest, just below the thick Topgrain below. Many floggers are made from various suede 'splits', these are inexpensive and simple to work. More thud and more sting than those above, may mark if swung sharply.
- Topgrain leather - smooth leathers create less friction than suedes, yet usually feel more 'sting-y' on the skin. Available in many weights, from light garment leathers to heavy saddle leathers, the more flexible varieties are recommended.
- Oil tanned thick leather - thick, heavy, and spongy leather, less flexible than thinner skins. Feels rather like an extremely heavy Elk as it compresses, yet a far more 'serious' thud.
- Bison - Interesting rough grain, heavy, rather inflexible, unless careful attention is taken the edges may cut the skin. Not a material for the beginner, but certainly something to use if desired.
- Rubber - flexible, yet quite 'harsh' feeling, stings rather like a thong flogger, leaves immediate marks. Different weight to air resistance ratio than any leather I am aware of. Exceptionally simple to clean.
- Horsehair - Extreme sting with no thud, entirely skin-level sensation of a very intense and itching sort. It is possible to break skin with horsehair, and it creates deceptively intense stinging at a very light touch. Cleanliness and body fluid precautions are required here, IMO.
Additionally, most of these have tactile and scent qualities that may attract some, with the exception of the pillowcase, fabric, nylon, and the oil-tanned leather [much of which smells rather nasty]. All except the pillowcase may be made into floggers that look rather nice, and all of the above are now available ready-made through shops and catalogues.
TechniqueMuch has been discussed,experienced, debated, and counter-debated here and elsewhere on this personal topic, but as this is intended as a generic suggestion for the beginner, perhaps there is a possibility we might avoid the usual flamewar-of-the-moment? Of course it would be wonderful if others would add their own ideas to this basic outline [subtle hint]. (Domina has added a faq on corporal punishment from Slakkers Page that gives several methods of flogging.)
WHERE?
Where to flog? Where not?As 'flogging' is something that covers much by way of different activities, I have taken the liberty of separating it into 'light' [entirely sting, no deep tissue effects], and 'heavy' [sting and/or thud, reaching and jarring deep tissue]. *Hint* it is impossible to do 'heavy' flogging with a 20-tail chamois flogger, and quite difficult to do 'light' flogging with anything over deerskin in the materials progression cited above [with the exception of horsehair, again a sting-only material].
Of course all of these are merely physical *possibilities* rated solely on my own opinions of [relative] safety, all limits and preferences of top and bottom must also be considered.
Where not to flog *under any circumstances*
[obvious safety reasons]The face, head, neck, the fingers and toes, over healing skin [if you want it to ever heal].
Where to flog *extremely* lightly and carefully if at all
[Really a gentle brushing motion rather than a striking one, tips of a *light* stinging instrument only, such as the chamois or horsehair above]The palms and back of the hands, over any joint, the lower front and back and sides between the top of the pelvis and the lower ribs [kidneys and other internal organs], the spine, the tops and bottoms of the feet.
N.B. Both feet and hands contain many tiny bones, once broken, these rarely heal well. Joints do not respond well to stress internal or external. Crippling is neither safe nor sane, and unless one has an X-ray machine at call one cannot tell.
Internal organs are more fragile than one might think, avoid thud entirely in their area. Many people have particular problems with body areas as well, do attempt the above *very* lightly indeed if at all!
Where to flog lightlyLower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts, genitals [skin is more fragile there], upper shoulders [accuracy], top of buttocks near spine, the muscular ridge on both sides of the spine [accuracy], the ribs where not protected by muscle.
N.B. There is some evidence that 'thud' on the female breast is not advisable for reasons of health, nipples are far better suited to strong stimulation. The top of the buttocks protect the coccyx, a small and fragile triangular bone at the base of the spine, avoid striking between the upper buttocks.
Where to flog 'heavily'Buttocks, upper back on each side of the spine, thighs, lower shoulders. These areas are principally composed of strong bones protected by muscle tissue and a fatty layer, any other organs present are reasonably protected. There are reasons for these traditional areas being so traditional, they reduce the likelihood of major damage, making an extended safer session possible.
Position ConsiderationsBody position affects the position of both skin and muscles. If someone is bent over, the muscles of the rear lengthen and are not as thick, so the muscles themselves no longer protect in the same way. If the skin is stretched as well, it will feel more than it would if relaxed. Flogging someone who is standing unsupported may lead to falling, and seems foolish given the known physiological and psychological effects ['going away']. Standing bondage changes without warning to partial suspension if someone faints, plan for that possibility.
Grim's Flogging FAQs continued on the next page.....
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