Your New Puppy
(things I think will help you after you take your puppy home)

This is an attempt to try and answer some of the questions that I get asked before/after
my puppy families take their babies home. Keep in mind, I am not a writer, and an
awful speller (even spell check has given up on me) so things may seem to not ‘flow’
but hopefully the info here will help you get ready for your puppy. If anything here
raises more questions, feel free to ask.

After you’ve decided what day you are coming to pick up your puppy
but before you do:

Make an appointment with your veterinarian to get your puppy a complete looking over. That way,
you are assured that you got a healthy basenji puppy.

 
You should already have a puppy kindergarten class selected. Now is the time to see what
vaccinations they require, and the age of the puppies permitted. You may want to sign up at this
time. Be sure it is a class the whole family can be involved in, and one taught by trainers who
understand the basenji breed’s special quirks and use only positive training methods.

The trip home:

It is going to be very difficult to not hold your puppy in your lap during the ride home. However, one
of the number one rules of basenji ownership is: don’t let them do something once, that later you are
going to forbid them to do. You want your puppy to ride in a crate on it’s trip home, or any time it’s
riding in the car. The plastic Vari-kennel types are best. Have a warm fleecy blanket in there, and just
put your puppy in the crate like you’ve done it a hundred times. Do not make a big deal about it, no
kissing (I know, very hard to do), no “Awww, I’m so sorry” tones in your voice. Your puppy is
counting on you to take care of him, and will feel more secure if you act like you know exactly what
you are doing. You can have the crate on the seat next to you, to put your finger in there so the
puppy knows he’s not alone, but leave the door shut.

 
If you have a long trip home, it would be a good idea to stop every 45-60 minutes to let your puppy
stretch his legs, and to potty. Try to get him out of the crate in a moment of silence. If he’s
screaming, and you let him out, you just taught him something: screaming works.

 
Try to stay away from pet areas at rest areas along the turnpike or major highways. They are just a
bunch of germs waiting to hop onto your puppy. A grassy spot at a fast food restaurant is better.
He’ll come with a collar, but you’ll need to bring a lightweight leash.

Warning: there will be screaming. Try to ignore it. Last year a gal who took a pup home stopped 5
minutes from my house to let the puppy out of his crate to ride on her lap, while she was driving!!!
When he was about 8 months old, she admitted that by golly, I knew what I was talking about! It
took a couple of months, but he now rides in his crate in the car, and is quiet and happy there. It is so
much easier to have them learn right from the start.

 
Plus, your puppy is much safer in a crate if you are in an accident. I have heard many stories of dogs
that survived crashes because of their crates.

That little puppy is not much of a driving distraction now, but when he is an adult, he will be, so it is
best to get him to ride in a crate.

 
It’s also easier when you stop and have to get out of the car. If your basenji is in his crate, you don’t
have to worry about him bolting out and getting loose. That is very dangerous, he could be hit by a
car.

 
If you have to run into the store, for just a few minutes, you will come back to intact seatbelts if your
basenji is in a crate. Yes, there are stories of chewed up seat belts. A very expensive lesson learned.
Remember: don’t let him do something that later on you’re not going to let him do.

 
Your puppy’s first meal:

Right now, the plan is that your puppy will be eating Eukanuba Puppy Food. However, don’t go out
and buy a bunch, because sometimes they develop a tummy upset or diarrhea from a certain food,
and I end up switching to something else. I will let you know when you call to set up a time to get
your pup what they are eating. I also will send home a couple of day’s worth to get you started.


Your puppy will be eating 3 times a day at the time you pick him up. I usually switch to twice a day
when they are 4-5 mos. I don’t like to feed basenjis once a day as they often throw up bile (yellow
foamy stuff) if they have empty tummies. It’s common in the breed, nothing to be alarmed about.


I’ll be honest, Eukanuba is not my favorite food. Too much corn in it. But I have a hard time finding
a puppy food that is not too rich for the little ones (6-12 weeks or so), so I use it. Feel free to switch
your puppy gradually to a different food. I keep mine on puppy food until they are 6-8 mos or so. If
you notice your pup getting pudgy, but you’re not feeding them any more than you used to, it’s
probably time to switch to an adult food.
I’ll write more on the adult foods later.

Treats:

I use treats a lot, to get my basenjis to do some of the things I need for them to do.
However, I am talking very very small bites, the size of 2 peas. Some good things to use are: turkey
hot dogs that were microwaved until they’re crisp, little bites of ‘Oinkerroll’ or similar product, little
chunks of Nutros Natural Choice Chops (in a green box), little pieces of cooked chicken breast.
Remember, these are treats, to be used for training, not meals! Tiny tiny pieces only!
If you use these especially yummy things only when training (including crate training) you will find
your basenji very eager to learn!

 
In the beginning, avoid any human food, or table scraps. It is easy to create a ‘picky’ basenji, and
they are no fun to live with. You want your puppy to be perfectly happy with his kibble. They can
very easily learn to hold out for something better if they think they can get away with it.



Kibble for meals, the above yummies for training, nothing else in the beginning.


As your puppy gets older, vegetables, and even some fruits are wonderful for your basenji. If your
puppy’s mom is Corie, it might even like oranges!!! She is the only dog I’ve ever known that likes
oranges. They love canteloupe, watermelon, apples, peas, broccoli, carrots, green beans. Grapes are
fun to play with, but I’ve never seen them eat grapes. And that’s a good thing: too many grapes can
be poisonous to dogs, and never give raisins. I know a gal whose basenji died after eating raisins.
Also, onions are bad. And never never chocolate!!!!

 
Your puppy’s first night at home
(crate training continues at your house):

 
You should have decided by now where your puppy is going to sleep. Remember, don’t let it do
something that later it will not be allowed to do.

I have no problem with my puppies sleeping with their humans. In fact, I think it’s important if you
work during the day (when it will be crated). It is totally unfair to a dog to have it crated during the
day and then again at night. This is a primitive breed, born to run, and it cannot tolerate that much
crate time and develop into a well adjusted adult. You will have major behavior problems if your pup
is alone that much.

So, if your puppy is going to sleep with you, have him go out to potty right before bed time - make
sure you see him go. If he has to go in the middle of the night, or early morning, he will probably
fuss a bit before, so if you’re a light enough sleeper, you should not have any wet spots in your bed.
But, if it’s a long way from your bed to the outside, he might not make it. That’s not his fault, he’s
just a baby and can’t hold it that long.

I suggest getting some of those waterproof pads that are used in infant’s bedding. It will not be too
long before your puppy can ‘hold it’ all night. Remember, this is a very very clean breed and they will
not mess where they sleep unless they absolutely have to. I’m writing this when my current litter is 4
weeks and one day old. Today I had one little puppy screaming and screaming at the door of the pen.
I couldn’t figure out what was wrong. I let him out. He ran to the corner and pooped, then wanted
back in with his momma and littermates. Like I said, they like to be clean if we give them the
opportunity to be so.


So, what to do if your puppy is going to be with someone all day (or most of the day) and you want
him to sleep in a crate at night?

First, what kind of crate: your puppy is used to wire crates when it leaves here, so that might be the
best to start with. Some people feel it should be small, and that way the puppy won’t mess where it
has to sleep. Personally, I put mine in a crate that’s big enough for them to sleep in one area, and if
they have to, mess in the corner without having to lay in it. I can see the logic in both ways of
thinking. This is where you kind of have to ‘read’ your pup and do what you ‘think’ is going to
work. Make sure he’s gone potty (that means watch, don’t just let him free in the yard and assume
he goes) right before bed time. Have a nice fleecy blanket in there, with just a tiny bit of water, and
maybe a nylabone to chew. Say “Who wants a biscuit?” let him see/hear you throw a bit of treat in
(remember, the size of two peas) place him in and close the door. Do it like you’ve done it a hundred
times before. Very matter of fact, not much emotion in your voice (maybe a little happy sounding),
non chalant. Leave.

He will scream. Maybe a little. Maybe a lot. They are all different. Try to time it so it is right after a
rough and tumble play session. A tired basenji is a quiet basenji!

Where do you put the crate? Here again, there are two schools of thought: I put mine away from our
bedroom so the screaming doesn’t get to me. Other people put the crate next to their bed, so they
can stick their finger in to comfort the pup. Do what works best for your situation.
What you need to remember: if you take the puppy out of the crate when it is screaming, you have
taught it that screaming works. It only takes one time for them to learn this. Don’t let him do
anything that later he will not be allowed to do, and that means scream to be let out.
But what if he has to potty? Try to wait for a brief lull in the noise.

Keep everything matter of fact, don’t get angry, don’t get excited. Act very business like, but gentle
of course.

This is going to be a stressful experience for you and your pup. I have started crate training here, but
not ‘by himself.’ He’s used to the crate, he’s not used to being alone. But he can be taught to accept
it. He’s in a new home, without his littermates, so he needs a couple of days to feel he ‘belongs.’

I hope you can tell that you have to do a bit of ‘personalizing’ of the crate training, adjusting the
rules to suit your pup, your family, and your home. It is very much like bringing a newborn home,
you both have to figure out what is going to work, and there may be many sleepless nights before
you accomplish that.

My first basenji Sugar was awful for 3 nights (she was 9 weeks old). Then she realized we were her
family, we always came back in the morning, and she has not screamed in her crate since. She is 8.

BUT, unfortunately there are basenjis who never get used to a crate. I have no way of knowing if
your puppy is one of them. I can tell you that their parents were crate trained. What to do if your
puppy ends up being like this: I suggest getting a plastic vari-kennel crate, to be used as a bed, and
surrounding it with an expen. When you come to pick up your pup, I will show you what an ex pen
is if you’ve never seen one. If your pup ends up being a climber, you’ll have to buy a top for the ex
pen. It seems some of these basenjis seem to be a bit claustrophobic, so we need to give them a bit
more room. Maybe they have just retained a bit more of the ‘wild’ in them, going back to the days
when they roamed the jungle as they pleased. I really don’t know why.

One very important thing about crate training:
Never never never put your puppy in your crate if you are angry or as punishment. Your puppy will
not learn to like its crate if you do that. The crate must ALWAYS be a happy place. Always say
“Who wants a biscuit?” and give the little tidbit of the something really yummy. What will your
puppy learn? If I go in my crate, I get something really yummy, my family is all happy, and I have a
snuggly blankie in there.

Also, always feed your puppy in his crate. Basenjis are very food motivated, and there is nothing
wrong with using that fact to our advantage.
Ask me to demonstrate: “Who wants a biscuit?” when you come to pick up your puppy. It works!

What if there is a mess in the crate?
Roll up a newspaper, and hit
yourself on the head for not taking the puppy out sooner! No yelling, no scolding, no angry or
frustrated sounds. Your puppy doesn’t like it any more than you do.

My Sid sometimes screams in the morning: because he had to pee, and couldn’t hold it. He hates a
wet messy crate. It’s my fault. Sometimes when I let him out at night, he just stands on the deck by
the door, and doesn’t ‘go.’ I should go out and watch that he does. My fault, one whack on my head
with the rolled up paper!

Remain calm, but firm. And consistent. And those yummy treats only for training.

Okay, so what if you’re home all day, and you want your puppy to sleep in your bed? Do you need a
crate?
Yes, yes yes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you travel, or if he has to stay at the vet’s overnight, being used to the crate will make his life
much easier. If you’re having a party of 5 yr olds, he may need a place to get away! Or if you have
visitors who are not really into dogs. Both they, and your basenji will be happier if he is in his crate.
There are many instances where having a dog that will go happily in his crate will be helpful. Plus, he
MUST ALWAYS be in his crate when no one is home to watch him (would you leave a 2 year old
child alone, loose in the house while you went out to dinner?). Never leave him free to roam the
house if no one is there. It is way too dangerous for him, because you name it, he’ll chew it.

So, if you’re home all day, and sleep with your puppy at night, you need to get him used to the
crate. Periodically throughout the day, put your puppy in his crate. A good time to do this is when
he’s sleepy. He will immediately associate his crate with peace. Let him hear what is going on in the
house, so he knows that he must be in his crate even if you are home. This teaches him that everyone
doesn’t leave every time he goes in the crate. And of course, when he eats, he needs to do it in his
crate.

Remember, put him in his crate in a very matter of fact way. Use “Who wants a biscuit?” and use a
calm voice.
If you’re leaving for work, or for any other reason, put him in his crate about 10 minutes before you
leave, so he doesn’t think every time he goes in the crate, you leave him. Otherwise he’s going to
start hiding or running from you. Yes, they are that smart. That’s how they survived all these years in
Africa.

Another thought on crating when you’re gone: if there is a fire, your dog will be in a known place,
and they stand a good chance of being rescued. If he is loose, he will be scared and hiding
somewhere. The fireman will not endanger their own lives to look for him If someone breaks into
your house, your basenji will be safe in his crate, he will not be able to bolt out the door. I know, I
know, he won’t be able to attack the intruder. Personally, I’d rather lose my ‘stuff’ than my basenjis.

It is possible to eventually have a basenji that can be trusted in the house alone. Most of them can’t,
but some can. I would not suggest trying until your basenji is at least 2 (years!). If you do try it, I
cannot guarantee the outcome. Basenjis have been known to be fine for 3 years, and then one day
decided to destuff the sofa. This is a true story. Crates, if not used to excess, are very good things.

Your puppy’s first veterinary visit:

Remember, he needs to ride in the car in his crate. Try to do this within a day or so of bringing him
home.
He may need a vaccination booster, depending on his exact age when you get him. However it is best
to not get a vaccine at that first visit. Your puppy is still getting to know you, and his crate. He
doesn’t need the added stress of a vaccine.
Your puppy will not have been vaccinated for bordatella, Lepto, or Corona, as I don’t believe in
vaccinating for things that they have such a low risk of catching. This is something my mentor, (the
gal I got my dogs from, a veterinarian) suggests.
Your puppy kindergarten class may require the bordatella, so you may have to give him that vaccine.
For what it’s worth, I never vaccinate any of my dogs for bordatella, corona, or Lepto, and we travel
to shows many many times per year, exposing them I’m sure to many many things. No one has
contracted any of these diseases yet. But, this is something you really need to discuss with your vet,
and as the owner, you must make the decision that is right for you.

Basenjis are prone to vaccine reactions. Merial has what they call Recombinant vaccines available
now. Since I have started requesting these, I have had no reactions. Call ahead to see if your vet has
this particular kind. They will know of the Merial company. It really is worth looking for a vet that
uses these particular vaccines. It is also very important that your puppy not receive a Rabies vaccine
at the same time as another vaccine. Spread them out, it is better for their immune system, and it will
cut down on the chances of reactions. Also, I like to have my pups get their vaccines in the early
morning, that way if there is a problem and I need to contact the vet, they are still in the office, at
least until early evening.

Take in a stool sample, to check for worms. I worm them here of course, but for your own peace of
mind, and your puppy’s well being it’s best to get another check. Sometimes one (or even
more) worming won’t get them all.

Also, your puppy will most likely have an umbilical hernia. These are hereditary, and are something
we wish the basenji breed did not have to deal with. However, because of the breed’s small gene
pool, if we eliminated every basenji with an umbilical hernia from being bred, there would eventually
be no basenjis. We have much bigger health problems we are dealing with and we are having a tough
time, because of the small gene pool. We cannot afford to make it smaller because of umbilical
hernias.

Some veterinarian’s freak out when they see the hernias. I assure you, if I thought they posed a great
health risk, I would not be breeding. Your puppy was examined by a veterinarian before you picked
him up, and I would never let a puppy leave here that I thought would have a problem with a hernia.
All of my moms that I’ve bred have umbilical hernias, have had successful whelpings with no
problems, and even lure course (running 3 races, 800 yards each, on any given day) My mentor, the
gal I got my dogs from, is a veterinarian, and she has assured me I am doing the right thing. IF the
hernia bothers you, or you have a vet who gets a little freaked by the hernia, go ahead and get it
repaired when you spay or neuter your pup. For females, it just makes a longer incision. For males,
it’s an entirely different incision, which is why I advise against repair, but like I said, it’s your call.
This topic comes up periodically on my Basenji Breeders email list, and no one has ever had a
problem with a hernia in their dogs. The stories of the intestines falling through are so rare, no one
has had that experience, and some have been breeding for 40 + years!

Another important thing: if you live in an area where heartworms are a problem (your vet will let you know) then you will need to give medicine to keep your dog healthy. It involves giving them a flavored tablet once a month. The dogs like them, and consider them a treat. A new form of heartworm prevention has come out, an injection that is good for 6 months. DO NOT let your vet give this injection to your dog. Basenjis in general are very sensitive to chemicals, and once that shot is given, it is in your dog for 6 months. It is so easy to give the once a month preventative, you even get little stickers to put on your calendar.

The most important thing is to educate yourself on the various issues I wrote of above, consult with
a veterinarian you trust, and decide for yourself the best choices for your puppy.

Food

A little more about feeding your basenji. Like I said, always feed your pup in his crate. Put the food
in, give him 20 minutes, whatever is left, take it out. Do not do what we call ‘free feed.’ Free feeding
is putting the food down for the dog, and leaving it there all day, so the dog can just eat when it feels
like it. If you do you will have dominance issues (I will explain this later) and you will probably end
up with a picky eater. Your basenji needs to know his food comes from you.


Like I said earlier, I usually switch my pups to adult food when they are 4-6 mos old. You really just
have to keep an eye on your pup’s weight and adjust accordingly. You should not be able to see his
ribs, but you should feel them easily when you rub his sides. When looking at him from above, he
should have a definite waist. You can’t really go by weight because some of them are heavier boned
than others. It’s more a ‘feel’ and how they look. If it seems you’re cutting back on the puppy food,
but he’s still getting pudgy, it’s time to switch to adult food.

Right now I’m feeding Nutro’s Natural Choice Chicken and Oatmeal. I chose this food because:
1. they use human grade meat to make it.
2. I have a dog allergic to corn and one allergic to wheat. It’s easier to feed them all the same thing, so this one is ideal (no wheat or corn)
3. it’s readily available.
4. they like it.

There are some brands of food I suggest staying away from:
anything you buy at the grocery store (Iams, Purina, Old Roy, etc) These foods have a lot of filler
(corn is not digested by dogs, it’s a filler) and will make your dog poop a lot and it will be mushy and
a mess to clean if it’s in the house. Many of them do not use natural preservatives, which is basically
feeding your dog poison. Your vet may sell Science Diet. In my opinion this is not good food for
basenjis, due to the ethoxyquin used as a preservative.

You really have to go to a Pet supply store for good food. Careful, they also have the junk food. Get
to be a label reader. The first three ingredients are the main part of the food. If one is corn or corn
meal, try something else. Be careful of ‘by products.’ Chicken by products are what humans can’t
eat: beaks, guts, feet. This breed does seem to have more sensitive stomachs compared to most, so it
is wise to not feed them junk.

Housetraining:

First, keep in mind you are getting a baby, and you will be cleaning up messes. Also remember,
especially you kids, if you get pee or poop on you, it won’t hurt you. It washes off very easily.

That being said, you need to teach your puppy the place where it is suppose to go. He natually
knows not to go where he sleeps, but until he sleeps there a couple nights, he’s not going to know
that’s where he’s sleeping, is he?

So, you need to teach him where he sleeps, which we’ve already covered. Then you need to teach
him where he is supposed to ‘go.’

When he was here, he learned to go on newspaper.

First you need to decide where you want him to go:

1. you can start him on newspaper, and then gradually teach him to go outside. I do this. I
move the paper next to the back door. That way the puppy goes there to ‘go’ and if I catch him soon
enough, I whoosh him outside. I’ll be honest: I feel really guilty making a little 10 pound puppy go
out in 5 degree snowstorms to potty. When it warms up, I then really concentrate on going outside.

 2. you can teach him to go outside right from the start. This is just a matter of watching him
constantly, when he gives the slightest indication he has to go, whoosh him outside. Lots of praise
and ‘Good Puppies’ when he does. In the beginning he’s going to be peeing every half hour or so. If
he’s sleeping, the very first thing he’s going to want to do is potty when he wakes up. If you are
diligent about watching him, this method can work. But really only if you are home all the time.

 3. A blend of the above 2: if you work, you really need to get home at least every 3 hours or
so to give the puppy some attention, exercise, and a chance to potty. You are going to come home to
a wet crate, they just can’t hold it that long. That is why I like the crate in an ex pen method of
containment or the extra large wire crate with a corner that has newspaper. Put some papers by your
door so when you’re home the pup will go there, and you can whoosh him out. They will eventually
hold it, but that takes a good 5 months sometimes.

4. Dog litter: there are dog litters on the market now, and many breeders use them for their
puppies. I have not had good luck with them, they just played in it and got it all over. But I have
heard of many many adult basenjis that use a litter box. Most people use the tray that is designed to
go under a washing machine (I think to prevent leak damage) If you want to do this, every time you
see the pup giving the ‘having to go signs’ whoosh him to the litter box.

Okay, so what are the ‘have to go signals?'

1. well, with poop it’s easy - their butt starts sticking out funny. Since they have those cute
curly tails, its’s easy to see. And they start circling or going off to a secluded place. I hate to be so
graphic, but it’s the truth : ) Once they know to do it outside, they’ll go to the door.

2. with pee, it’s a little trickier, you might see some circling, but you really have to watch for it.
I usually just end up taking them out (or to the paper if it’s really really cold or deep snow) every half
hour or so.

Also, when he wakes up, first thing he’ll do is potty. After he eats, he’ll potty. If he’s playing hard,
after 15 minutes or so, he’ll potty.

 You are going to have messes in your house, your puppy is a baby. It will take time. But be patient,
matter of fact, no scolding for accidents, no yelling, no frantic “somebody get the puppy” (will just
scare him) and you will end up with a basenji that potties outside.

If possible, try to set up things so that the messes on carpet are rare. If you do have carpet, buy a
product called “Nature’s Miracle” It’s expensive, but it works. It doesn’t mask the smell, it gets rid
of it because it’s an enzyme that breaks down the smell. It’s good for accidents on sofas, including
kids throwing up too (mother of 3, had my share of this!) You can get it at pet supply stores.

One other thing: basenjis hate rain. If you put him out and it’s raining, make sure you actually see
him potty. They can be very tricky. I have heard of many owners who will take an umbrella out, and
hold it over the DOG!!!! so he’ll potty. I don’t do that.

Socialization:

When you leave my house, you are leaving with a cute, sometimes cuddly sweet little thing. But
without the proper guidance, he will turn into a monster. He is unlike any dog you’ve ever known.
His ancestors had to take care of themselves, so they had to be very very smart, very very
determined, very very agile, cunning, wily, sneaky and confident.

Your puppy still has many of those genes that enabled his ancestors to survive. It is your job to teach
him how to behave so he can be a good family member.

He is a dog, and he understands pack behavior. What this means is that he considers everyone in
your family part of his ‘pack.’ Every pack has leaders, and followers. Usually in families with kids,
the parents are the leaders and the kids are the followers. You need to teach your puppy than not
only is he a follower, he is at the very bottom of the hierarchy. And you must do this in gentle
positive ways. Never hit your basenji. And yelling does no good. The best training method for
basenjis is to convince them that what you want them to do, is what they wanted to do anyway. I
only allow my puppies to go home with families smart enough to do this. So that means I think you
are very very smart!!!!!!!

Remember when I said basenjis are food motivated? Well, you can use this to teach your puppy who
is the ‘boss.’

1. First you need to teach your puppy how to “sit.” I always suggest a puppy kindergarten
class for puppies, no matter how much dog training experience you have. There you will learn how
to teach your puppy to sit. I’ll also show you when you come to pick him up.

2. Your puppy needs to learn that nothing in life is free. All good things come from you, and
he doesn’t get anything until he does something for you. And that is to ‘sit.’
(do these only after he knows the SIT command.)
Does he want his supper? Tell him to sit. He doesn’t eat until he does.
Does he want to be petted? Tell him to sit. No pets until he sits.
Does he want to play with you with his toys? Tell him to sit. No playing until he sits.
Anything good he gets, first tell him to sit.
What this does is teach him, in a very friendly positive way, that you are above him, and he must
come to you for everything good. It is important to involve the children in the family in this process.
Kids about 5 and over can help. Younger kids, I think I”d hold off.

3. There is something the younger kids can do. But first the grownups have to teach the
puppy something else: OFF. Off means, butt on the floor, mouth to your self. Get a handful of those
pea sized yummy treats I wrote about earlier. Put one in your hand, fist closed. Let your puppy
smell, he’ll lick your hand and try to get it. There will be a split second where his mouth is not on
your hand. Immediately, say OFF, open your hand, give the treat, say Good Puppy in a happy voice.
It is extremely important that the OFF be timed exactly when the puppy’s mouth is not touching you.
Do this 10 times, 6 times a day. In 2-3 days you will have a puppy that automatically knows that
OFF means mouth to myself.
Then, we’ll add ‘butt on the floor.’ Get your treats, do some OFFs, after each give the treat. After
2-3, say OFF, when the puppy is OFF, say SIT. Your puppy already learned what sit was. Don’t give
the treat until the pup sits. So, do OFF, SIT. Treating when the butt hits the floor. Do this 10 times 6
times a day for 2-3 days. You will have a puppy that knows that OFF means mouth to myself, butt
on the floor. Because after a short while, you will not have to say sit. He will automatically sit when
you say OFF.
Now, just because he knows the command, doesn’t mean he’s going to do it every time. You may
have a puppy that is perfect with his OFFs from the start and never needs to be reminded. You may
have a puppy that needs to be reminded twice a day. You probably will have a puppy somewhere in
between - meaning every couple of days or so, he needs a refresher course in OFF.
Little kids can do this, but only with mom or dad supervising. Because if the dog doesn’t listen to the
child, and gets away with it, he learns he is above the child in the pack, which is something we really
need to prevent. So only involve your child if you know you can be in control of the situation to
correct your puppy if need be. He must not be allowed to think he doesn’t need to listen to the
children. Make sure your young kids know to not do this without mom or dad being around to help.

4. There is another very nice way to teach your puppy that he is below all the humans in the
family. In a calm, gentle quiet way, hold your puppy cuddled in your arms, on his back, like you
would a baby. I do this while sitting in my rocker, watching tv. The puppy will struggle, do not let
him get free. Be firm but gentle. When he is relaxed in that position, you can talk to him. But not
when he’s squiggling. Do it in the calm , matter of fact, we do this every day manner I spoke of
earlier.
To a basenji, being on their back is a very submissive position, one they do not do intuitively. I’m
sure you’ve met dogs who have rolled on their backs when they met you, and maybe even peed a
little. It is very rare to see a basenji do this. They are just too dominant.
I start laying the babies on their backs from day one, cradled in my arms. They are born thinking
they own the world, I start early to teach them otherwise.
When you do this ‘cuddling while the puppy is laying on its back’ make sure it is a quiet peaceful
time. Help your kids to do it too. Supervise the little ones. If the puppy struggles while your young
child is doing this, and is successful in getting free, you’ve just taught him that he is above your child
in the pack. That is definitely the opposite of what we want.
While you’re holding the puppy on its back, and when he relaxes, start touching him all over. Gently
squeeze his toes, all of them, tug very gently on his tail, play with his ears, put your fingers in his
mouth (don’t let him bite), just touch him all over. This is very very important. Your puppy needs to
learn that you are allowed to do anything you want to him. Teach your kids to do this, but always
supervise. Remember only do stuff with your kids that you know you have the upper hand. You
don’t want to teach the puppy he has to do things for the adults in the family, but not the kids.
Always keep it calm, gentle but firm, no high pitched voices (small kids). Calm, consistent.

5. Feed your puppy his supper, one kibble at a time. Use SITS. This teaches, in another way,
that good things come from you, and he has to do something for you before he gets fed. Try to do
this 2-3 times a week until the pup is 5 mos or so. Let your young child hold the food, and you do
the SIT command. The pup will learn it’s below your child in the pack.

Basenjis and Kids:

Basenjis are African hunting dogs and are more like cats than any dog you’ve ever known. They just
don’t interact with children the same way as other dogs. This is why you really have to watch them
around small kids. They have a very strong prey drive, and the high pitched sounds and flailing arms
and legs may trigger it. They won’t intentionally hurt the child, but may knock them over and chase
them, scaring the child. They will also play nip if they are not taught that this is prohibited (more on
that later) This is just instinct of a primitive breed. You’re not going to change it, so you have to
work with it, by supervising your basenji and small kids at all times.

If a basenji feels he is being treated rougher than he thinks he should be, he is going to correct the
person doing it. Usually it’s small children who don’t know any better. It is your job, as the adult and
pack leader to prevent that from happening.

If you have kids, they of course are going to want to play with the puppy, and the puppy with them.
But you need to set a few ground rules.

Try to keep the playing at a controlled level. No wild running about with hands flailing and
screaming/screeching. This really excites the puppy, and they tend to get a bit out of control -
meaning they start biting at heels, tugging at clothes, etc. Just like kids who get overexcited. It may
seem stupid to say play quietly, but it really is best if you are going to have a basenji that gets along
with kids. If your kids, and their friends are playing in such a way that the pup is getting
overstimulated, take the puppy away for awhile to calm down. You don’t want him to start nipping
at the kids, it’s a bad habit to start, and hard to change.

Never let them run with the dogs nipping at their legs/feet/clothes. It may be cute when the pup is
little, but it is dangerous with an adult basenji, and the dog will not understand why things changed.

Remember that number one rule:
Never let the puppy do something that later he won’t be allowed to do. That rule applies to playing
too.

One fun thing to do is tie a plastic grocery bag to a string, and tie the string to a stick, kind of like a
fishing pole. Your pup will love chasing the bag as you wave it around. Every once in a while let him
catch it and ‘kill’ it. You can also do it with a piece of fleece or rabbit skin.

Also, no tug of war games. That teaches the puppy he can ‘challenge’ you. Again, this is especially
important for the kids to follow.

Toys:

Basenji puppies love stuffed toys, but don’t spend a lot of money on them. Mine tend to chew off the
eyes and nose, then pull the stuffing out through those tiny holes. We usually stuff it back in for
awhile, then pitch the whole thing.

Your puppy is going to need things it is allowed to chew. I like nylabones (I’ll send one home with
you) compressed rawhide (but it does stink), kongs filled with peanut butter. Stay away from pig
ears, anything with artificial dyes, and that really white rawhide. Uncooked knuckle bones are good.

a good source for inexpensive toys is www.petedge.com

Your basenji may play fetch, but don’t be disappointed if he doesn’t. After about 3 throws they ask,
“Why do you keep throwing it if you want it, stupid?” Remember they had to be smart to survive in
Africa.

Don’t expect your basenji to swim with you, most hate water. Of course there are exceptions, and
your puppy may be one of them.

They love to chew plastic, so puppy proof the rooms your puppy is allowed in.. Not only will he ruin
things, he may get hurt, or worse. Rub some Vick’s Vaporrub on electrical cords. They hate that
stuff.

One of the best ways to get a basenji to sleep at night is to get them tired. Long walks, runs in
fenced in areas, chasing a bag on a string mentioned above will all help.
Mental exercise is good too. Sits, downs, learning tricks are fun.

Speaking of long walks:
do not use a harness for your basenji. You will not have the control you need, and it can mess up
their shoulders. Really bad idea for growing puppies!
I use ‘sighthound’ collars, I’ll show you what they are when you come to pick up your puppy.
Basenjis and other sighthounds tend to pull, these collars are designed to prevent damage to their
trachea.

It is also important that you let your puppy experience as many friendly people and places as you can
his first 6-8 months. Take him with you whenever you can, and have strangers pet him and give him
treats (never go anywhere without some of those yummy peasized treats). Let him meet friendly
dogs and kids. The more positive experiences he has, the more confident and well adjusted he will be
as an adult.

Play Biting/Nipping

Your puppy is going to ‘bite’ you, but for two different reasons.

One is mouthing because he’s teething. This is not the frantic grab at your foot biting, it is more a
‘chewing.’ He does this because his baby teeth are falling out and he’s getting his grown up teeth.
Chewing something makes it feel better. When he is doing this, tell him Off, and give him something
he is allowed to chew. The nylabones and compressed rawhides are good for this. He will out grow
this once his teeth are in.

If you want, you can spray a product called ‘Bitter Apple’ on your hands, or arms, or feet, to deter
him. It won’t hurt him, but it tastes really yucky.

The second kind of biting is playful nipping. This is the kind that really hurts, because those little
puppy teeth are sharp!!!! He learned ‘bite inhibition’ from his littermates, his mom, and my other
adults. We started teaching him bite inhibition with humans. You need to continue that.

There are a few things you can do:

1. when your puppy play bites you, scream in your loudest voice OWWWWW!!!!!!!!!
Then stop playing. Your puppy wants to play with you, and he will eventually get the idea 	
that if he bites too hard, play time is over. Just stop playing for 3-5 minutes, that’s long
enough for him to get the idea. This is a slow process, be patient.

2. When he’s play biting, tell him OFF (which he knows what it means if you taught him) and
have a fuzzy toy you can immediately give to him to play with, encourage him to bite the
toy.

3. Don’t play games that encourage him to bite. Waving your hands at him, running and
trying to get him to chase you both will tempt him to play bite. Always play with a fuzzy toy
in your hand, so he can bite the toy.

4. Spray your hands, arms, feet with Bitter Apple to deter play biting. It tastes really yucky,
but really doesn’t have much of an odor.


It is very important that you do not let the play biting escalate. If things look like they’re getting a bit out of hand, take the puppy into another area and divert its attention to something else. This is really important if you have kids. If the puppy is allowed to think he can bite the kids, you are going to have dominance issues, and those are harder to overcome. It will seem like you are spending your
whole day getting the puppy not to play bite, but the time spent teaching it not to is well worth it.

Have you noticed nowhere have I told you to tell your puppy NO? That’s because NO is too vague.
It means stop something, but what? It’s better if you tell your puppy to DO something. Like SIT,
OFF, Want a Biscuit, Outside, etc. If you always use the same word when you are doing something
or want something done, your puppy will quickly learn what that word means. Make sure everyone
uses the same words.

My dogs know:
biscuit, outside, go for a ride, off, sit, let’s go, hey (stop arguing with each other), lick a plate, come,
get the bunny, where’s the squirrel, come in, stop, and others. However, just because they know
what the words mean, doesn’t mean they will do what you say. That is just a basenji. Remember,
they were not bred to obey man, they were bred to take care of themselves, so it is against their
nature to obey. Convince your puppy that good things happen when he does what you say.

When Your Basenji Does Bad Things:

Your basenji is going to do things that you think are bad, but usually they are your fault, and they are only because he’s a basenji, not because he wants to make you mad:
they love to chew underwear: don’t let them have access to it.
they love to eat toilet paper and tissues: keep your bathroom door closed
they love to go through the garbage: put it where they can’t get to it
they love to chew plastic: don’t have any plastic things within their grasp
they love to chew up newspapers, and don’t care if you haven’t read it yet: keep it where they can’t get to it.
they love to bolt out doors (very very dangerous): don’t let them. Do whatever it takes to prevent this from happening. The main cause of death of young basenjis is being hit by a car.

Don’t make every bad thing your basenji does an act of defiance. That’s really not why they do the
things they do (they do them because it’s fun), and if you start getting into a power struggle with
your basenji, he will win. Or you will win and have a huge problem dog that you’re not going to be
able to live with.
The best way to control your basenji is to prevent them from doing the things you don’t want them
to do. This is unheard of in other more submissive, more domesticated breeds, but basenjis are
different. The best way to fight battles with your basenji is to prevent them from starting. You’ll both
be happier.

Obedience training:
Basenjis are free thinkers, that is what enabled them to survive for so many years in Africa. The
dumb ones got killed. Repetitive obedience commands, seem pointless to basenjis, unless you make
him see there’s something in it for him. Household obedience they do a little better: off, sit, stop,
biscuit. Because those commands make sense.

Go ahead and take your basenji to an obedience class, he will think it is fun. Just make sure they use
only positive training techniques, and that you are willing to accept you have the class clown, not the
straight A student!

Basenji Maintenance:

Your basenji is much more low maintenance than other breeds, but there are still things you need to
do regularly:

1. Brush his teeth: use a doggie toothpaste and a doggie toothbrush, both available at pet supply stores.
Get him used to the brushing gradually, first by just putting the paste on your finger and massaging
his gums. They like the flavor, so it’s usually not a big deal. My dogs argue over who gets theirs
brushed first. Your vet can show you how to do it, or I can when you come to pick up your pup.

2. Trimming nails: you need to keep them short, because if they get too long, they can get ripped. I’ve
had it happen, and it’s very painful for the dog, for at least a week. I’ve been trimming your puppy’s
nails since he was a week old, and you need to continue that. You can use a human trimmer (I use a
human baby trimmer when the puppies are very small), a trimmer made for dogs, or a dremel with a
sanding disc (that’s what I use on my adults). I can show you how to do that if you’d like. Just make
sure the trimming does not turn into a power struggle, use lots of treats, and only do a couple at a
time if that’s what it takes.

3. Bathing: you’re going to find your basenji is only going to need a bath if he gets into something
really stinky. When you do bathe, use a mild dog shampoo and don’t do it very often, it dries out
their coat and skin and can cause more problems than it solves. Be sure to rinse well because he will
lick himself dry and you don’t want him to get any soap into his body.

Noises:

By now, you probably know that your puppy can make a lot of noise. Remember when I told you
that though they don’t bark, they can be very very noisy?

The screaming is an obvious signal your puppy is mad, sad or hurt. It is up to you to figure out
which it is, and respond accordingly.

You may get baroos, you may not. Rosa and Corie have never barooed in their lives, Ibis does when
she’s really happy to see someone she hasn’t seen in a while. “A while” sometimes means a few
minutes or months! My Sugar barooed only for my Dad, and when he died, so did her baroos.
Your basenji will make a ‘meow’ sound when he yawns. No one is exactly sure why they do the
yawn thing, but it seems to me they do it when they are a bit stressed. Or just want you to look at
them.

Your basenji may whine, a quieter way of expressing displeasure.

Basenjis also have a long melodic Hoowwwlllll. Around here, I only hear it from the males during
breeding season. But at our national specialty, there is always at least one time that many many
basenjis start howling in unison. It is held during breeding season, but sometimes a siren or even the
national anthem will get them going.

As your basenji gets older, you may notice he ‘grumbles’ when you wake him up, or start growling if
he is startled when sleeping. We think this is a protective instinct from their wild days. Think about
it: if you were sleeping in the jungle, and something came along and woke you up, it would be pretty
important to show that you can’t be messed with.

What to do about it: first, make sure you do the ‘I am allowed to touch you all over and do
whatever I want’ exercises often. A couple times a day when your basenji is a puppy, then a couple
times a week so he doesn’t ‘forget’ as he gets older. Also, if you need to wake up your sleeping
basenji, before touching him, say his name - he will give you an indication that he heard and knows
it’s you. This is really important for your kids to understand.

The “Teenage” Period

When your basenji is 8-10 months old, you are going to wonder what in the world happened!! It will
seem he forgot everything you ever taught him, become more obstinate, and may start challenging
everyone in the family. This is a normal stage in his development, but does need to be addressed so
he does not start to think he runs the family.

This is one of the reasons I require my pet males to be neutered before they are 8 mos of age. If the
dog is not neutered by that date, his behavior will be basically controlled by his hormones, and
dominance issues will be much more difficult to deal with, especially if you have children. Females
also get ‘cranky’ or worse while in heat, so they need to be spayed before 8 mos too. Your basenji,
and your family will be much happier.

Go back to the basics:

practice sits, and downs too if you taught him that, feed him by hand, making him wait for each piece
of food, involve the kids so he remembers they are above him in the hierarchy of the family also.
Remind him that he needs to do something good for you before you will do something good for him.
Make sure he gets plenty of exercise.

This phase will pass, but in some dogs it takes longer than others. Just keep in mind eventually your
sweet basenji will return, if he is gently guided that way. Be firm and consistent, like you were when
he was a small puppy.

Resources for More Information:

1. Raising a Well Adjusted Basenji
http://www.geocities.com/regalfoxbasenjis/fun_facts_info/adjustment.html

This article is written by someone who had a problem ADULT basenji. Many of the things
she suggests are not appropriate for a puppy, but it does demonstrate the importance of the
techniques I described above - teaching your basenji where they stand in the hierarchy of the
‘pack.’
She discusses the ‘alpha roll’ and why it is not a good idea. I agree with her, but feel the need
to point out that what I told you to do with your puppy, calmly holding him like a baby on his
back, is NOT the alpha roll. The alpha roll is when you have a dog that is misbehaving,
usually reserved for very serious offenses like biting, and you forcefully put him on his back
on the floor and hold him there until he ‘submits.’. Don’t ever do that, no matter what your
basenji did. You will get bit, or you will make him even more defiant. It doesn’t work, as she
says in her article.
Another thing mentioned is that she stopped letting her basenji sleep in her bed (remember
through the whole article, she is speaking of an ADULT problem basenji, not a young pup).
Sleeping in the human bed is something that can make a basenji think they rule the roost.
However, if you are diligent in the other methods of ‘pack order assurance’ it should not be a
problem. I think there is a bigger problem if they are crated at night, and all day while you are
at work. If you do end up with some dominance issues, and the other methods are not
controlling it, then it is time to kick your basenji out of the bed. But don’t worry about it at
this point.


2. Basenji Companions
http://www.basenjicompanions.org

This is an on line club dedicated to basenji PET owners. It is a very helpful group of people
with years of basenji experience, and also people new to the breed, who are willing to help
you with any problem you are having. The site itself is very informative. The membership fee
is well worth the money, as it gives you access to their private articles, newsletters and email
group.

3. Basenji - L email list
http://apple.ease.lsoft.com/archives/basenji-l.html

This is an email list with a variety of members: breeders, pet owners, vet techs, and people
who do not yet have a basenji but are considering getting one.
Very informative.

4. Basenji Rescue and Transport
http://www.basenjirescue.org

This is the only nationwide group of volunteers dedicated solely to rehoming basenjis. I list
the site here because it does have some informative articles. And you might just decide you
would be a great person to volunteer to help.

5. Basenji Club of America
http://www.basenji.org

This is the national basenji club, members are breeders and pet owners. Membership
includes the Bulletin, published 4 times a year. It often includes health topics, and other
informative articles. There are some great articles on this site as well.

6. Basenji Club of Southwestern Wisconsin
http://www.bcosw.org

This club has published an inexpensive book, At Home With Basenjis. I have not read the
book, but knowing the folks in the club, I’m sure it is a good one.
This website also has a basenji discussion forum, which I urge you to read. You’ll learn a lot
from other people’s problems, and hopefully can avoid some of them with your own basenji.

********************************************************************************

[ Rugosa Home Page ]

The
Adding a Rugosa Basenji Puppy to your Family
Process