The Overland track went up to Crater Lake with breath taking scenery. Marion's Lookout was quite a climb but the views made the climb well worth it. Considering the climb up Cradle Mountain, Kitchen Hut was the place to sleep to avoid an unnecessary back tracking exercise.
After Kitchen Hut it was decided not to go on to Waterful Hut. On the first afternoon, the only un-clouded view of Cradle Mountain was possible , otherwise it was pretty much cloud, mist and fog. Sleeping on a narrow bench in Kitchen Hut it was hard to sleep due to mice or rats scampering around on the second floor above. A few bangs on walls seemed to do the trick.
The weather was closing in but there was no stopping the ascent of Cradle Mountain from Kitchen Hut. After several hundred metres the track gave way to dolerite boulders which are extremely grippy even when wet. Pole markers every 50m made it possible to find the way when the mist rolled in. Soon boulders became as big as cars and massive Easter Island like columns gave a mysterious feel to this area. When finally the top of this climb had been reached, disappointment set in as the track descended on the other side of the saddle into snow fields where it was easy to sink into soft melting snow that easily penetrated gaters and socks. A sharp climb up a gully led to the top. A brass plate indicated the distance to other points of interest. Without any views there was no point hanging around. A careful descent was required to find the markers and so avoid getting lost.
From Kitchen Hut a boggy trail was followed moving into Cradle Cirque, a high plateau south of Cradle Mountain. Great views below 1200 m were possible. Another solo walker was passed who was heading North, then a group of 5 who were back tracking to Cradle Mountain from Waterfall Valley hut. It was 10am when the Waterfall Valley hut was reached so a futher walk of another 3 hours to Windemere hut was undertaken where unfortunately a group of six Uni students from Hobart had already taken over. These were not minimal impact people at all. The group of five (from near Cradle Mountain) also got here eventually. It was decided to avoid this crowd if at all possible.
After leaving WIndemere a reolution was reached to avoid all crowds and made the way eventually to the less used 'Old Pelion Hut'. The day was horribly wet with large exposed buttongrass plains and horizontal rain. Any rests were recipes for hypothermia and hypothermia was the theme of the day.
When the plains were passed and a forest was entered there were assaults on at least one occasion by leaches. Fortune had it to see pademelons and a Bennet's wallaby or two. At Frog FLats which surrounds the Forth RIver crossing the track was extremely boggy. Feet were soaked and arm cramps were experienced indicating (in this case) some mild hypothermia. Upon arriving at Old Pelion Hut a retreat to the sleeping bag for an hour just to warm up was required before the outside world could be faced once again. In the afternoon it was decided to avoid staying hut bound so an afternoon walk commenced passing Mt Oakleigh down towards the Wolfram mine to see some rainforest. It was here the art of buttongrass jumping was learned to avoid soggy feet. It was terrific to have the hut to share with nobody rough as it was, it was better than a new crowded hut. To stay warm on this nigh, thermals were worn and the hiker was wrapped up in an emergency blanket in the sleeping bag. It did snow overnight!
An hour or so was spent reaching Pelion Gap which was still snow covered. Because Mt Ossa was in cloud it was avoided for the time being. The East track up to Mt Pelion East was the choice taken instead. Due to the iciness of the final ascent it was decided to circumnavigate the rocky summit rather than attempt a dangerous solo climb. On the descent the hiker passed the Hobart Uni students group again. Escaping people is a hard job.
Mt Ossa is Tasmania's highest mountain at 1617 m. From Pelion Gap where the backpack had been left behind, the walk headed westwards with a daypack traversing the south side of Mt Doris. A Bennet's Wallaby was observed grazing on grass near the snow line at the saddle between Mt Ossa and Mt Doris. Climbing steeply after the Mt Doris saddle snow was soon unavoidable. At lower altitudes it was softer and easier to sink into. At higher altitudes the harder the snow became and the easier it became to walk through.
On the summit a few photos were taken amongst the mist. Descending was great fun following ascent tracks back and running through the snow (almost felt like skiing). From Pelion Pass to Kia Ora Hut, the clouds cleared and Mt Ossa stood out cloud free damn it.
Sleeping in Kia Ora hut alone was a haunting experience due to a weird popping sound like a gun going off coming from the button grass swampy plains. I heard this same noise on several other occasions usually at night.
Today was the shortest walk. Leaving Kia Ora, the track led closer and closer to the Mersey River. After half an hour or so, the restored Du Cane Hut was reached set amongst lovely myrtle beech trees. After spending morning tea in the hut, progress was continued along the track with tangent trips made to see Dalton, Fergusson and Hartnett falls. Dalton falls were hardly as impressive as Fergusson Falls. The photo of Fergusson falls does not give justice to the massive volume of water coming down the Mersey river.
At Hartnett falls, the hiker bypassed a couple who were photographing the falls. A route was taken into the gorge below the falls. Coming back up to the top the couple of Europeans were given a fright as they hardly expected anyone else to be out nearby. It is certain they were a little aprehensive about the hiker and moved on from Windy ridge rather than spend the night in the same hut. That was alright as better company 'Nara' who had walked all the way from Pelion Hut showed up. Two hours later her friends Stuart and Bob arrived. They were all pleasant people from Sydney. The weird popping sound from the swampy areas still haunted the environs as sleep was sought.
Every hut south of Pelion had a sign up relating to the disappearance of a woman who went missing in the Pine Valley area the previous December. Apparantly a summer blizzard erupted and she was caught underprepared in the Labyrinth.
About an hour and a quarter past Windy Ridge the Pine Valley turn-off was attained. Walking westward, , two very impressive suspension bridges over the Narcissis River and Cephessus Creek were negotiated. Tasmania's biggest king billy pine forest resides here around the Pine Valley Hut. Being only 10 am when the hut was reached, the hiker set them self up in the hut and then took off for the Acropolis. A hard slog up the ridge to the south leads to this impressive dolorite mountain. Following the red triangle markers and some scrambling led up to the top through occasional snow drifts. A freezing cold wind ensured time on the summit was going to be short. Taking the required photos and then retreating the hut was arrived at two hours later where nearby some amazing strawberry breasted sparrows were observed. An innovative camper had invented rock backgammon which was played with to keep the bordom factor at bay.
Expecting an easy walk to the labyrinth surprise was ensured at the altitude needed to be reached to get beyond the Parthenon. A fair descent followed as the route was followed using rock cairns as markers. The labyrinth contains numerous small hills lakes and valleys all above 1000 m on this small plateau. The trail was lost as a compass heading North was followed towards Mt Massif having to scrub bash through extremely thick scrub until Lake Helios where the trail was picked up again. A cairned path led up to a high ridge on the Du Cane Range.
Realising Mount Massif was out of range a decision was made to climb the nearer Mt Geryon. The top of the North Tower of Mt Geryon was reached but stong winds and an exposed steep razorback ridge made the final 10 m or so way too dangerous. Exhaustion had set in by the time the Pine Valley hut was reached. A Brazillian couple soon arrived and they were fairly cool.
A long trek to Narcissus Hut, Echo Point Hut bypassing many a fallen tree
saw one exhausted hiker arrive at Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel. The Prime Cut is
a feast to have again - and I will!