Great South West Walk - 12 days 2002
3/01/02 18.6km
Caught the train from Melbourne at 9 AM. At around 1 pm I arrived in Warnambool
to catch a bus to Portland. At 2 pm I registered at Portland police station and immediately began
my trek North to Whaler's Point and Dutton's Bluff bypassing a lighthouse.
On Dutton Way I met two more walker's (Tom and Locky)who drove me about one kilometer to where the walk leaves
the coast.
From the coast the track became interesting as it wound through Loretto Forest across the Princess Highway
and further away from civilisation. In truth today was pretty unexciting because half off the walk was along
a railway and the first half was escaping town. Cubby's Camp was decent and Tom and Locky had a few
interesting ideas. Ian from Withcott whom I had seen on the bus turned up at dusk (around 9 pm) looking
sorry and exhausted. He looked pretty close to heart failure.
4/01/02 Cubby's Camp to Cobboboonee camp 24.1km
Left before the others could. Headed West for about an hour before seeing a strange crater like formation where a sinkhole
had formed. Passing through swamp and lovely forest I had a break but got savaged by mossies. Near Wild Dog Creek which was
dry I saw an Emu in the scrub. Blackwood and Manna Gum are common here and there is a nice bridge across the Surrey River near
Cut Out Camp where I had lunch and where Tom and Locky caught up with me. I left ahead of them towards Cobboboonee camp through
some quite spectacular and diverse heath country. The sun screen became important here as there wasn't much shade. Before the camp
site was reached a few massive old dunes covered in heath had to be passed.
5/01/02 Cobboboonee camp to Moleside 33.0km
I was truly on my own now as Locky and Tom had turned off toward's the coast today. The forest north of Cobboboonee camp was
spectacular full of black cockatoos and sulfur crested cockatoos. Further north the forest soils became richer and outcrops of basalt
became common until near the crest of Mt Van Dyke. From here West the soils became poorer and the forest become lower and more open.
Saw an echidna and later a kangaroo and a tiger snake up on Jones Ridge where views are terrific. From Jones Ridge the path descended to
the inkpot which is another collapsed limestone cavern with very dark inky water. At Moleside Camp I met a couple who were canoe camping
down the Glenelg River. The campsites along the river were very well kept with the exception of Murrells.
At night the koala's made a huge racket.
6/01/02 Moleside to Patterson's Canoe Camp 33.5 km
A lovely morning walk around Wild Dog Bend was very peaceful. Swarms of Corella's seem to be a feature of this river valley. At Saunder's Landing
I met Mark and Madeline: a Swiss couple who were fishing and catching black bream with pippies. Mark was nice enough to give me two cups of coffee
and Madeline offered me buscuits. I avoided the other car access places as there were too many people but thankfully this was
only at one or two section on this side of the river. Several Kangaroo sightings over the day but no snakes. At Patterson's Canoe campsite were five other
people: 3 anti social uni students and two canoeists (mother and daughter). Anna and Helena talked with me until about 10pm. Also tried spotlighting and looking
for the fish which kept jumping out of the river.
7/01/02 Patterson's Canoe Camp to Nelson 20.8 km
The day was cursed by bad weather. The most spectacular scenery was shrouded in wind blown penetrating rain. Nevertheless the river to Nelson was
spectacular gorge scenery rivaling Carnarvon Gorge. In the South Australian section of about 3 kilometres I saw Black Swans in the river and a huge emu on the track that nearly
ran into me. At Nelson I had a great pub meal and stayed in a motel - The Pine Haven Motel for $45 a night.
8/01/02 Nelson to White Sands Camp 10.0 km
For breakfast I had a mixed grill to see me on my way.It was only $5 because I had stayed the night in the adjacent motel.
I took it easy not leaving Nelson until 10AM or so. After the Oxbow Lake which was disappointingly deprived of birds I crossed the dunes to Discovery Bay. People are so damn
stupid. Even with signs warning of the endangered status of Hooded Plovers there were dogs on the beach off their leashes. The concept of a 1% fine of asset value for
environmental breaches occurred to me at this point. I must add that from now on I became an ardent supporter of the Australian Greens. It was the short term uncaring
and apathetic values of most of society that made me change. People are so selfish.
I also noticed quite a lot of rubbish on the beach so shame on you boaties for tossing your shit overboard. I was impressed by the Cormorants and Gulls roosting on Shipwreck Rocks.
I had a problem with black ants that swamed all over my backpack probably because they are attracted to the smell of their crushed comrades.
Later in the day Paul from Darwin turned up. He was good to talk to and I am glad I caught up with him later in the trip as I get easily bored on my own if I arrive at a
campsite early.
9/01/02 White Sands Camp to Swan Lake Camp 28.5 km
One fantastic long beach walk today although I did run out of water! I saw hooded plovers - the endangered species
in these parts about 1 km further east than White Sands Camp. About two kilometres of aboriginal middens and work shops full of flint were evident at McEacherns Rocks and Nobles Rocks.
At Mombeong Lake I picked up more black ants as they must still be attracted to my smelly pack. Back to the beach and as you can see from the picture there was no one around. It could be said
that for the exception of road access sites I never saw a soul on the entire beach section - this is rare
in today's overcrowded world. (People should practice ZPG before it is forced on them!) Anyway I ran out of water at the entrance to the Swan Lake Camp track. Due to the sun exposure and the hot sand
I think I would have to have been a little dehydrated upon making camp. This was the only camp that I had to myself even
though I didn't see people during the day.
10/01/02 Swan Lake Camp to Tarragal Camp 21.0 km
This was the only hot day. When I reached Mt Richmond the temperature was over 35 ° C. The day featured several exotic pine plantations, a blue tongue lizard, manna gums galore but free
of koala's, a red necked wallaby and 2 echidna's. Mt Richmond offered some interesting views on it's fire tower
and thankfully shade and water to pass through the heat of the day. From about 11am till 2pm I rested at Mt Richmond and then moved onto Tarragul camp in the cool of the
afternoon. Upon arriving I was freaked to find a big blue apparantly abandoned tent. I had to look inside
incase someone had died in there. Later that night Colin & Jenny turned up and I formally introduced myself to them in the morning. This was Collin's second attempt at the GSWW and with Jenny providing
driving support it was easy for him to do it quickly. All through the Coast side in every camp side log book I had seen cryptic messages from Colin, size of party 1 1/2 and now I worked it out. Jenny
is his better half or made half an effort since she drove to each camp.
11/01/02 Tarragal Camp to The Springs Camp 12.0 km
After all this way 12 kilometres in one day seems rather lame - a walk in the park. The sceneery was tremendous and I had no desire to get back to civilisation early.
At Bridgewater Lakes Colin and Jenny drove past again and I think at this point they lent me some insect repellent after giving me a clock in the morning. At Bridgewater lakes a lovely limestone cave loomed. Soon The headland of Cape Bridgewater
was reached. It would be a terrible shame if the wind farm goes ahead here. I saw several joggers along this section of coastline. They seemed out of place - more suited to Lang Cove National Park than this region. At the Springs I set up camp had a sleep and then went to check out the views.
Later Paul Gibson turned up again and we caught up on the last couple of days.
12/01/02 The Springs Camp to Trewalla Camp 15.0 km
Some of the day I pretty much walked with Paul. At the Petrified Forest I saw several tourists and rather that I didn't as I prefer to eat pistachio nuts in peace. The blow holes weren't blowing but the forest was very petrified.
These are the remains of trees (Melaleuca lanceolata) that were covered in sand. The parts covered were preserved and fossilised. There were several dead shearwaters near the cliff tops - a mystery but sad to see.
At Cape Bridgewater Paul caught up with me and we walked together to the Seal Cave (Australia's only mainland seal colony), and the 130 m sea cliff in this area and then onto Cape Bridgewater Kiosk for some great steakburger's.
Another 6 kilometres along Bridgewater Bay to the next camp site.
13/01/02 Trewalla Camp to Mallee Camp 17.0 km
People again were seen being selfish and cruel towards nature. This time a dog was allowed by its owners to chase a wallaby. Paul and I believe the wallaby was probably killed so we gave the car registration to the information office back in Portland.
Another very scenic day. Colin had warned me about these terrible dunes at the end of the bay. They were no trouble at all. Poor Colin must have missed the track here. Cape Nelson has the only Victorian location
of the rare Soap Mallee (Eucalyptus diversifolia). These produced interesting intertwined rooves over the path. Later I arrived at Cape Nelson where I had some coffee and cake with Paul at the nearby cafe. After having a lighthouse tour
we walked on to Mallee Camp (seeing an echidna on the way) for the last night of the walk. I had really become accustomed to the lifestyle by now.
14/01/02 Mallee Camp to Portland 16.5 km
With regret the last day was undertaken. The enchanted forest was an interesting part of the walk with deep dark Melaleuca forest for about an hour. Much of the day was dominated by views of the Portland Aluminium Smelter. A quick view of the Gannet colony at Point Danger was the end of
the walk really with the transition to civilisation and unkempt tracks leading into the city proper. I was sad the walk was over. It was a marvelous 250 km.
