Welcome to my C4 transmission rebuild page.

I hope this will help others who are in the process of building a transmission for their mustang II or any other C4 tranny, to see the ups and downs of it, and to point out some of the differences in transmission design between c4 transmissions, and some of the special Mustang II parts.

When starting this project I wanted one tranny to rebuild while I still drove the car. When looking for a tranny to us in your Mustang II find one that has the dipstick that goes throughthe case, instead of screwing to the side of the pan.  Also, make sure the bellhousing bolts to the pump, instead of the case.

This is what I used to rebuild my tranny, a B&M trans kit, and a TCI converter with the special mustang II bolt pattern.

My garage before things started. Don't start this project without a clean place to work. It's too easy to loose parts in a cluttered workplace.

Things never tend to stay clean though,atleast all the tranny parts fit on the once clean counter. Once again don't loose anything.

This is the difference in bellhousings.  The one on the right bolts to the case, with notches for the pump bolts. Also it came on the tranny that had the dipstick that went into the side of the pan.  The bellhousing on the left is what the Mustang II uses. It bolts to the pump.

This picture got a little stretched, but you can see new TCI converter compared to a standard non mustang II converter to the left. Mustang II converters are much smaller for the smaller bellhousing.

The two torque converters once again. On the standard converter I put my old flexplate, and got one stud in the top hole. If you look close you can see the lower stud hits the starter teeth. This illustrates the different pattern of the normal C4 trannys and a Mustang II trans.

Once the bellhousing and tailshaft are removed this is all that is left of the tranny. All the clutches, bands, gears, and valvebody are in this compact hunk of aluminum. Cleaning was a pain in the rear end. It took about two hours in the parts washer till I broke down and brought the pressure washer home. Just make sure you get it clean.

You've gotta flush the trans cooler lines and the cooler in the radiator. The way I did this was to use an old in tank fuel pump, and a cup to circulate solovent through the cooler and lines.

This is the brain of the tranny, the valvebody. This is what is modified when a shift kit is installed.

The pan and the dirty, amost rust colored fluid. Although the tranny worked when I bought it, their wasn't many more miles of life left.

One good clutch compared to one bad clutch. The bad clutch came out of a tranny that I got from a friend that I used for reference. I couldn't figure out how to put the one way clutch together, also, the pump in that tranny was broke into three pieces, my theory is that because of the broken pump, line pressure was reduced causing the cluches to slip and burn out.

This is the one way roller clutch, I forgot how to put the dang thing together, so once I had a tranny to look at for reference I took lots of pics

Another pic of the one way clutch

The third pic, I removed it for a better view.

Yes I'm a happy camper.  Question is, how do I get the bulky 100lb tranny down?

This is the bad pump that came from my friend's tranny. I wonder how that could happen.

The mess I had when I pulled my old tranny. That's the old one that's all apart. I just had to see how smoked it was, it wasn't too bad, what cause the slow engagement of gears was a pinched cooler line.

This is the input shaft, about 1" in diameter. All the power goes through this little shaft. I recommend upgrading to a better one, athough I didn't I'm kicking myself for over looking this little detail. Two different types of input shafts exist, one has a 24 spline shaft, and one a 26.

I just had to get a shot of my new quad compressor. I even blew out the underground sprinklers with that bad boy.

If you have any question e mail me at autogate@home.com

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