Motivational Information

MY RIFLE
 This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My rifle without me is useless. Without my rifle, I am useless. I must fire my rifle true. I must shoot straighter than my enemy who is trying to kill me. I must shoot him before he shoots me. I will... My rifle and myself know that what counts in war is not the rounds we fire, the noise of our bursts, nor the smoke we  make. We know it is the hits that count. We will hit... My rifle is human, even as I, because it is my life. Thus, I will learn it as a brother. I will learn its weaknesses, its strengths, its parts, its accessories, its sights, and its barrel. I   will ever guard it against the ravages of weather and damage. I will keep my rifle clean and ready, even as I am clean and ready. We will become part of each other. We will... Before God I swear this creed. My rifle and myself  are the defenders of my country. We are the masters of our enemy. We are th
e saviors of my life. So be it, until there is no enemy, but PEACE.

"I was that which others did not want to be. I went where others feared to go, and did what others failed to do. I asked nothing from those who gave nothing and reluctantly accepted the thought of eternal loneliness should I fail. I have seen the face of terror, felt the stinging cold of fear, and enjoyed the sweet taste of a moment's love. But most of all I have lived times others would say were best forgotten. At least some day I will be able to say, I was proud of what I was and always will be............... A United States Marine Scout/Sniper"

"....consider that Marine Scout/Snipers are required to do the same thing at almost twice the distance (hitting a target at over a quarter mile away), with only one shot and no chance to make adjustments. All this on a mission that may last for days, in any weather, against an enemy trying to kill you like a pesky varmint. It is a bizarre way to make a living, and the men who do it are strange birds. But to an enemy, the M40A1 in the hands of a skilled Marine Scout/Sniper is a hellish weapon, more feared than even a bomber loaded with napalm! It is scary to know that you might be hunted by another man; and this makes it tough to do your job. The overwhelming psychological impact of the sniper helps to explain why the Corps invests so much in maintaining this capability."    Tom Clancy Author"

 "Sniping is a mysterious art most people ignore because, as Jack Nicholson said in the movie, "they can't handle the truth." But the truth lies in the crosshairs. Snipers are a breed apart. They possess a primordial stalking and killing instinct, one couched in a true loner's disposition. They are the solitary killers of Man's oldest and most intense obsession -- war. It is the  sniper team that strikes out alone, depending only on itself, employing its imagination and hard-earned skills to the ominous task of taking out key individual targets in a sea of enemy troops. Snipers observe war from afar through their binos, studying it on their maps, sneaking around it on the fringes, penetrating it silently along a straight razor; only when ready, do they selectively participate, striking without warning, dumping their unaware prey in the dirt with pinpoint precision, disappearing  without a trace. They are as close as good guys can get to being half-human, half-animal. For all these reasons and more, I am one. H
appy shooting".
                                            "Major M. 6/23/98"





General Information

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE SNIPER cannot be measured simply by the number of casualties he inflicts upon the enemy. Realization of the sniper's presence instills fear in enemy troops elements and influences their decisions and actions.

In sniper team operations involving prolonged independent
employment, the sniper must be self-reliant, display good judgment
and common sense. This requires two other important qualifications:
emotional balance and field craft.
(1)    Emotional balance. The sniper must be able to calmly and
deliberately kill targets that may not pose an immediate threat to him.
It is much easier to kill in self-defense or in the defense of others than
it is to kill without apparent provocation. The sniper must not be
susceptible to emotions such as anxiety or remorse. Candidates
whose motivation toward sniper training rests mainly in the desire for
prestige may not be capable of the cold rationality that the sniper's job
requires.
(2) Mental condition. When commanders screen sniper candidates,
they should look for traits that indicate the candidate has the right
qualities to be a sniper. The commander must determine if the
candidate will pull the trigger at the right time and place. Some traits
to look for are reliability, initiative, loyalty, discipline and emotional
stability.

a.    SOUND. Sound may be made by movement, equipment rattling or talking. The enemy may dismiss small noises as natural but when someone speaks he will know that someone is near. Gear should be silenced using tape before a mission so that it makes no noise while running or walking. Moving quietly is done by using slow, deliberate, smooth movement.
b. MOVEMENT. Movement itself is a target indicator. The human eye is attracted to movement. A stationary target may be impossible to detect, and a slowly moving one might be left unnoticed, but quick jerky movement will most certainly be seen. Again, slow deliberate movement is necessary to remain undetected.
c.    IMPROPER CAMOUFLAGE. The largest number of targets will be detected due to improper camouflage. There are three types of improper camouflage:
1) Shine comes from reflective objects exposed and not toned down, such a belt buckles, watches, or glasses. The lenses of optical gear will also reflect light. Shine can be eliminated by placing a paper shade over the end of the optics and by staying in shadows. Any object that reflects light should be camouflaged.
2)    Outline. The outline of objects such as the body, head and shoulders, weapons, and web gear are very recognizable even from a distance. Often times the human eye will pick up a recognizable shape and concentrate on it even if the object can not be identified right away. Therefore, outlines must be broken up into unrecognizable patterns.
3)    Contrast With the Background. Contrast means to stand out against a background, such as a man in a dark green uniform standing against a cinder block wall. When using a position for concealment, a background must be chosen that will absorb the appearance of the sniper and his gear. A difference in color or shape from the background will usually be noticed. A sniper must therefore camouflage himself and his gear in accordance with the coloring of his background and stay in the shadows as much as possible.

PERSONAL CAMOUFLAGE

a.    Types of Personal Camouflage. There are several types of camouflage commercially available in a variety of colors. These include stick camouflage, commonly known as a came stick, grease paint, and camo compac.

b.    Advantages/Disadvantages. Choosing a form of camouflage will depend on the terrain as well as the weather conditions. Some forms of personal camouflage are more durable than others.
1)    The came stick is the most difficult to apple but lasts the longest.
2)    Cam compac is easier to apply but does not last as long.
c.    Uses for Personal Camouflage.
1)    When using a came stick or grease paint, all exposed shin should be covered. This includes the hands, back of the neck, ears, and face.
2)    The parts of the face that naturally form shadows should be lightened.
3)    The predominant features of the face that shine, such as the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin, should be darkened.
4)    The patterns and colors that are used should blend in with the natural vegetation and shadows.
5)    For jungles and woodland, light green and loam colors should be used.
6)    For desert, light brown and sand colors should be used.
7)    For snow, white and gray colors should be used.
8)    Facial patterns can vary from irregular stripes across the face to bold splotching. The best pattern may be a combination of the two to ensure a blending with the background terrain.

CAMOUFLAGE DURING MOVEMENT

a.    Hiding. Hiding is completely concealing the body from observation by laying in very thick vegetation, under leaves, etc., to keep from being seen. The technique of hiding may be used if the sniper stumbles upon an enemy patrol and immediate concealment is needed, or if the sniper wishes to "lay low" during daylight hours to await darkness.

b.    Blending. Often, it is not practical or possible for a sniper to completely hide himself. The sniper must then camouflage himself in such a way as to blend into his surroundings. He must ensure he cannot be detected even under close scrutiny through optical gear. Accurate blending with the environment takes much practice and
experience on the part of the sniper.

c.    Deceiving. In deceiving, the enemy is tricked into false conclusions regarding the sniper s location, intentions, or movement. Examples might be the use of a boot with the sole ripped out to conceal a hide loophole. Mannequin heads were used quite often to lure enemy snipers into shooting during WWI. A sniper ambush may be set by planting items such as an ammunition can, food cartons, or something to intrigue in a spot that can be observed. When a souvenir seeking enemy comes along, he can be actively engaged

a.    Definition of a Hide. A hide is a scout sniper's position which he has constructed in a specific location suitable for sniper operations. The hide must provide maximum fields of observation and fire, camouflage and concealment, and protection from hostile fire and Weather.
b.    Location of Hides. After deciding upon an area of operation, the sniper must choose a specific spot from which to operate. A position or hide that looks obvious and ideal for the sniper will appear as such to the enemy. The sniper should avoid obvious hides and stay away from prominent, readily identifiable objects. The general location of a hide is determined by the ground to be covered. Detailed location requires careful reconnaissance. Likely positions may be found in such places as hedgerows, ruined buildings, rubbish heaps, treelines, etc. The sniper should make the best use of available terrain and natural camouflage to reduce the construction effort of his hide.
1)    Isolated and conspicuous cover should be avoided because the enemy will key in on these areas.
2)    Tree top positions should never be used because they are unsteady and hard to occupy and vacate without being seen.
3)    In built-up areas, buildings, sewer gratings, and vehicles can make good hides.
a)    A study of large scale street maps, low level aerial photos, sewer plans, and street photos taken by foot patrols are helpful for planning a general hide location.
b)    Once these have been examined a further ground reconnaissance is needed to determine the approach route and exit.
c)    Arcs of observation must also be carefully considered because they can be severely limited in such an area.
4)    When possible, some sort of obstacle should be placed between the sniper and his target area. This will help to slow down the enemy if he attempts to rush the hide in the event the sniper's position gets compromised.

ELEMENTS OF HIDES

a.    Loopholes. A loophole is an aperture made in the hide for observation and firing under concealment. Loopholes should be constructed so they afford an adequate view of the required field of fire. They should not be positioned aiming directly into the sun at the times in the day when the majority of shooting is planned. They should be constructed so that they are wide at the back and narrow in the front, but not so narrow that observation is restricted. Loopholes may be made of any materials that are natural to the surrounding or that can be properly and cleverly concealed.

b.    Elbow Rest. Some form of rest for the sniper and observer should be constructed. This type of rest can be constructed with sandbags to the rear of the firing and observation loopholes.
c.    Cover. Covering the sniper hide gives the sniper team cover, concealment, protection, and some comfort. To get this protection and comfort, the sniper team should construct the cover of the hide with at least 2 feet of soil and, if time permits, logs, soil, rocks, and sod, in that order. If waterproofing is desired, ponchos, paper, canvas, or empty sandbags may be placed between the log and soil layers to prevent water from seeping through.

d.    Front and Rear Appearance. The natural appearance of the ground in front and rear of the hide must remain unaltered to avoid detection. If the hide is properly constructed and concealed, the enemy should be able to pass right over the top of it without suspecting the presence of snipers.

e.    Entrance. The sniper team must have a way in and out of the hide. This hole should be big enough for the snipers to enter and leave. Once inside the hide, they must cover this hole to prevent light from casting through the loopholes. This entrance should be well camouflaged.

Movement in and out of the hide should be kept to a minimum. The sniper should work under the assumption that his position is always under enemy observation.

TYPES OF HIDES

There are three basic types of hides. The actual size and shape of the hide will vary according to the situation. The hide should be modified to meet the demands of the situation.

a.    Belly Hide. This type of hide is best used in mobile situations or when the sniper does not plan to be in position for an extended period of time.

1)    Advantages.

a)    It is simple and can be built quickly.
b)    Many can be made if the sniper team is expected to be mobile.
2)    Disadvantages.
a)    It is uncomfortable and cannot be occupied for long periods of time.
b)    The sniper's head and shoulders are exposed to enemy fire.
c)    There is no protection from weather or enemy fire.
d)    The sniper has to enter the position from the front.
3)    Construction.
a)    Construction of a belly hide consists of scraping out enough turf to allow the body from the back on down to be below the surface. Because the head and shoulders are exposed when in this firing position, the sniper must have an adequate ghillie suit and veil to provide concealment.
b)    The hide must be dug so that the observer can fit into the same hole in a position enabling him to communicate easily with the shooter.
c)    A camouflage net laid out over both of the team members' heads and shoulders will allow them to operate and communicate under concealment.
b.    Improved Fire Trench Hide. This hide is no more than an improved fighting hole.

1)    Advantages.
a)    Enables the team to maintain a low silhouette in their firing position.
b)    Easily constructed by modifying an existing fighting hole.
c)    It can be occupied for long periods of time with some degree of comfort.
d)    Provides a small degree of protection from indirect fire.
2)    Disadvantages.
a)    It is not easily entered or exited.
b)    There is no overhead cover when in this firing position.
3)    Construction.
a)    A camouflage cover made of either logs or a net-type arrangement is placed over the rear portion of the hole leaving enough room for the sniper and observer to operate.
b)    Once again, a camouflage net over both the team members will allow the team to communicate and operate under cover.
c)    Semi-Permanent Hide. This hide resembles a fortified bunker and should always be used if time and situation permit. Most hides built in built-up areas will be of this type.
1)    Advantages.
a) It can be occupied for long periods of time with some comfort.
b)  Gives protection from fire and shrapnel.
c)    Enables freedom of movement inside the hide.
2)    Disadvantages.
a)    Takes time to construct.
b)    Equipment such as picks, shovels, axes, etc. are needed for construction.
3)    Construction. There are a few different types of semi-permanent hides.
a)    Berm Hide. This hide is made by digging from the reverse side or top of a berm and burrowing out a hide from the inside.
b)    Room Hide. This is an urban hide utilizing a room in a building and firing from either the window or a loophole that may be built through the wall.
c)    Crawl Space Hide. This is an urban hide built into the space between floors in multi-story buildings. The loophole is difficult to build. Teams can be emplaced by a patrol and an entry hole covered up with carpet or furniture and then recovered later.
d)    Roof Hide.

1 This is an urban hide built in the roof of a frame type building. When the roof has no structure protruding to provide protection, the position must be prepared from underneath the roof. A few small pieces of roofing material should be removed to allow the sniper to engage targets in his sector. The position should be supported and reinforced with sandbags. The sniper may fire from a loophole constructed under a roof tile that has been removed or displaced. There should be no visible sign of the hide or the sniper.

2 In cases where there is protection on the roof itself, the sniper fires from the reverse side of the roof around a chimney or over rooftop structures. The peak of a roof provides a vantage point for snipers to increase their field of vision and the range at which they can engage targets.

d.    The Use of Buildings as Hides. Buildings offer good opportunities as field firing positions (FFP) and observation posts (OP) under static conditions. It should be remembered, however, that isolated buildings and prominent structures such as city halls, churches, and schools are likely to be the subject of enemy operations and heavy weapons. Buildings should be prepared much in the same way as other hides.
1)    Similar precautions towards concealment must be taken.
2)    Special care should be taken not to alter the outward appearance of the building by opening windows or doors that were found closed. Curtains should not be removed. Windows can provide excellent firing positions. They can be reinforced with sandbags or other available materials. However, the sniper must avoid barricading only the window from which he is firing, and he must be sure to create irregular shaped loopholes that are not easily identified by the enemy.
3)    Actual firing positions should be well back into the natural shadows of the room. A drape screen should be used if possible.
e.    Improvised Hides. Some hides may be quickly improvised using available terrain and vegetation.

1)    Shell Holes. Shell holes save a lot of digging but they need plenty of wood and rope to secure the sides. Draining is the main disadvantage for occupying a shell hole.

2)    Tree or Stump Hides. Trees should be used that have a good deep root such as oak, chestnut, or hickory. During heavy winds, these trees tend to remain steadier than pines which have a surface root system. A large tree should be used that is in back of the tree line. This may limit the field of view, but it will afford better cover from enemy observation.




HIDE CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

a.    Hide Construction Considerations. There are several things the sniper team must consider before constructing a hide:

1)    Concealed Approach. It is essential that the natural appearance of the ground remain unaltered, and that any camouflage done reflects the natural terrain and environment. All work done on the hide is wasted if the snipers are observed entering the hide.
a)    Hides should have concealed approaches whenever possible.
b)    Enter the hide under the cover of darkness.
c)    Movement around the hide should be held to a minimum and trail discipline adhered to.
d)    In built-up areas, a secure and quiet approach is needed. A possible ploy might be to use a house search with the sniper gear hidden among the rest of the patrol's gear. Sewers may be used for movement.

2)    Start With Pit. Construction of the hide should begin with the pit. This gives the sniper team something to fight from if they are compromised.
All uncovered dirt or spoils should be carried off in a sandbag, poncho, etc., and hidden. This dirt may be placed in plowed fields, under a log, spread around the base of bushes, or just carried a distance away from the hide site and camouflaged.

3)    Loopholes. The construction of loopholes requires care and practice. They must afford adequate cover of the field of fire. The field of view must be checked throughout the construction of the hide to ensure it affords the sniper team adequate coverage of the enemy.
a)    Loopholes should be constructed so that they are as narrow as possible in the front and then widen out inside the hide. This presents a small hole from in front of the hide but allows the sniper team to observe and shoot by simply moving their position inside of the hide.
b)    The hide should have two loopholes.. One for the observer and one for the sniper. If the loophole is made large enough for both team members to see, they may give their position away to the trained eye of the enemy sniper.
c)    Loopholes must be camouflaged using foliage or other material which blends with or is natural to the surroundings. Logically, anything not in keeping with the surroundings will attract the enemy's attention.
4)    Overhead Cover.
a)    In a semi-permanent hide, large logs can form the base of the roof.
b)    A dust cover made from a poncho, layers of empty sandbags, or canvas off the back of an unguarded truck is then placed over the logs. This serves to weatherproof the hide.
c)    After the dust cover has been placed, dirt is placed over it for protection. Then if available, a layer of gravel.
d)    After the gravel, lay a final layer of dirt and then camouflage.
e)    Remember, with all of this material the sniper team must countersink the roof or they will end up with a large mound that will be difficult to conceal.
5)    Bulletproof. Every effort should be taken to construct the front of the hide so that it is bulletproof. The following techniques can be used:
a)    Kevlar flak jackets can be stuffed around the loophole areas.
b)    An angled armor plate with loophole cut into it can be emplaced behind the actual hide loophole.
6)    Screens. Any light shining through the loophole from the rear will appear as a headlight in the ground, giving the position away. It is necessary then to have a cover or screen over the entrance and also one on the inside of the loopholes.
a)    When a man is going through the entrance the loopholes must be covered, and when the loopholes are in use the entrance must be covered.
b)    It is advisable to have a door on the entrance sturdy enough to hold a man if someone steps on it. This prevents unwanted guests.
7)    Comfort. It is important that the sniper team not be cramped and uncomfortable in the hide. Effectiveness will drop if the team is unable to relax and perform their mission without undue stress.
a)    Adequate headroom is essential for firing and observing.
b)    A seat or bench arrangement is essential so that the team has a place to relax.
c)    In a snow hide, available materials may be placed on the floor of the hide to provide warmth.
b.    Materials. Hides may be made of stone, brick, wood, vegetation, or turf. Materials used should reflect the natural environment and terrain. Hides will more often than not be built in close proximity to the enemy so construction of an elaborate nature will be rare.
1)    Vegetation used to conceal hides must be changed periodically to prevent wilting or an unnatural appearance.
2)    Snow hides must be constructed the same way. They must be built using the surrounding materials and they must appear as natural as possible so that they remain undetected by the enemy.

c.    Tools. The sniper may use a number of tools to construct his hide. He will use whatever tools he has available to him such as a bayonet, knife, entrenching tool, shovel, axe, pick, saw, and sandbags. Most of these tools are too bulky to be carried by the sniper. If a backup patrol is to be used to assist in carrying any tools, prior coordination should be made. If a backup patrol is to help construct a hide, they should be briefed prior to departure on what will be expected of them.

Remedial Information:

Firing from hides
* Fire discipline Fire from a hide must be discreet and only undertaken at specific targets.  Haphazard harassing fire will quickly lead to the enemy locating the hide and directing fire to it.
* Muzzle Flash  at dusk and dawn, the flash from a shot can usually be clearly seen and care must be taken not to disclose the position of the hide when firing under such circumstances.
* Rifle smoke on frosty mornings and damp days, there is a great danger of smoke from the rifle giving the position away.  On such occasions, the sniper must keep as far back in the hide as possible.
* Dust when the surroundings are dry and dusty, the sniper must be careful not to cause too much dust to rise.  It may be necessary to dampen the surroundings of the loophole and the hide when there is a danger of rising dust.





TRANSITION: No matter how bright the night may appear to be, it will never allow the human eye to function with daylight precision. For maximum effectiveness, the
Sniper must apply the following principles of night vision.

1.    Darkness Adaptation: It takes the human eye about thirty minutes to adjust itself to a marked lowering of illumination During that time the pupils are expanding and the eyes are not reliable. In cases where the sniper team is to depart on a mission during darkness, it is recommended that they wear sunglasses or red-lens goggles in lighted areas prior to their departure.

2.    Off Center Vision: Off center vision is the best method of observing at night. It is the technique of focusing attention on an object without looking directly at it. An object under direct gaze in dim light will blur and appear to change, sometimes fading out completely. If the eyes are focused at different points around the object, about five to ten degrees away from it, your peripheral vision will provide a true picture of it. The reason for this is the portion of the eye that functions in reduced light is located around the outside edge of the retina.

3.    Factors Effecting Night Vision: Of the factors effecting night vision the sniper has control over the following:
a.    Lack of vitamin A impairs night vision. However, an overdose of will not increase your night vision capability.
b.    Colds, fatigue, narcotics, headaches, smoking and alcohol will reduce night vision.
c.    Exposure to bright light impairs night vision and necessitates a re adaptation to darkness.
d.    Darkness blots out detail and color so a sniper must compensate by learning to recognize objects by and bodies by outline alone.

During the twilight hours the constantly changing natural light levels cause rapid shadow movement that the sniper must be aware of. This constant change in the light level also causes an equally constant process of eye adjustment.

4.    Twilight: Twilight induces a false sense of security, and the sniper must be extremely cautious. For the same reason the enemy is prone to carelessness and will be more likely to expose himself

This is the time when most LPs and OP's will be moving about This is a good time to note their locations for future reference.

The cross hairs on the Unertl scope are visible and accurate from about one half hour before sunrise and one half hour after sunset. Begin morning nautical twilight (BMNT) and end evening nautical twilight (EENT) will vary from season to season.


5. Illumination Aids: On occasion, the sniper may have the assistance of artificial illumination for observation and shooting. Examples are:
a.    Campfires, streetlights and buildings often provide enough light to see and reduce a target.
Up to this point we have talked about night vision with the unaided eye. Let's look at the binos as observation aids.
6. Binoculars: Of observation aids, the binoculars are the easiest to use. They are easily manipulated and the field of view is limited only by the snipers scanning ability. Each sniper team will be equipped with binos to aid in searching for and selecting targets.
The binocular, 7x50, has seven power magnification and a 50mm objective lens. Focusing adjustments are on the eyepieces with separate adjustments for each eye. One monocle has a horizontal and vertical scale, graduated in mils, that is visible when the binos are in use.
7. Method of Holding Binoculars:
a.    Binos are held lightly, monocles resting and supported by the heels of the hands.
b.    The thumbs are used to block out light that would enter between the eyes and the eyepiece.
c.    The eyepieces are held lightly to the eyes to avoid transmission of body movement.
d.    Whenever possible a stationary rest should be used to support the elbows and/or the binos.
Having the best pair of binos on the world will do you no good if they are not adjusted correctly. There are two adjustments needed, the interpupillary and the focal.
8. Interpupillary Adjustment: The interpupillary distance (distance between the eyes) varies with individuals. The two monocles that make up a pair of field glasses are
hinged together so that the receptive lenses can be centered over the pupils of the eyes. Most binos have a scale on the hinge, allowing the sniper to preset the glasses for interpupillary distance. This will reduce unnecessary eyestrain. To determine this setting, the monocles are adjusted until the field of vision ceases to be two overlapping circles and appear as a single sharply defined one.

9. Focal Adjustment: Each individual eye of that individual requires different focus settings. To adjust your binos follow these steps:
a.    With both eyes open look at a distant object.
b.    Close the objective lens dust cover on the right monocle and turn the focus ring on the left eyepiece until the object is sharply defined.
c.    Repeat the procedure for the right monocle.
d.    Read the diopter scale on each focusing ring and record for future reference.
e.    Binos should always be focused prior to putting them up to your eyes to reduce unnecessary eyestrain.
10. Reticle: The reticle pattern found in one of the monocles of the binoculars is a mil scale. It is used in adjusting artillery and estimating range. in older military binos, the reticle was etched onto the objective lens. On the newer ones the reticle is laminated onto the inside of the objective lens, so care must be taken not to leave these binos unattended while exposed to direct sunlight. The reason for this is that the sun could melt the reticle off.

Palm sized binos as made by such companies as Tasco, Nikon etc.. could be carried by the sniper to assist him in his observations. They are smaller than the 7x50's and are very easy to carry. The only limiting factor is the smaller objective lens. The smaller are usually 8x30 which is a slight handicap at night but will not effect you during daylight.

11. M49 Spotting Scope: The M49 scope is a prismatic optical instrument with
20 power magnification. It is carried by the sniper team whenever justified by the mission. The lens of the scope is coated with a hard film of magnesium fluoride for maximum light transmission. This coating along high magnification makes observation and positive identification on camouflaged targets at longer distances or in shadows possible.

The process of observation is planned and systematic. Your first consideration is towards any immediate danger towards yourself, so you begin with a hasty search of the entire area. This is followed by a systematic and deliberate observation called a detailed
search As long as you and your partner remain in position, you and your partner maintain a constant surveillance by repeating hasty and detail searches.

12. Hasty Search: A hasty search is a very rapid check for enemy activity conducted by both the sniper and the observer. The observer makes the search with the 7x50 binos, making quick glances at specific points throughout the area, not by viewing the terrain in one continuous panoramic sweep. The binos are used in this type of search because they afford the observer with a wide field of view necessary to cover a large area in a short period of time.

The hasty search is effective because the eyes are sensitive to any slight movements occurring within the arc of the object they are focused on. The sniper, when conducting his hasty search, uses what is called side vision or peripheral vision. But in order for this side vision to work, the eyes must be focused on a specific point on order to have ibis sensitivity.

13. Detailed Search: If the sniper team fails to locate the enemy during the hasty search, they must then begin a systematic and deliberate examination known as a detailed search. Again, the observer uses the 7x50 binos, affording him the widest view available. The search should begin with the terrain nearest your position, because it normally offers the greatest danger.

Your detailed search should start at a point fifty meters to either flank. You then scan in a 180 degree arc, searching everything in exacting detail. When you reach the opposite flank, scan back across your front, ensuring that you slightly overlap your last scan. Continue making overlapping strips until you reach your far limits. This method of observation is known as the fifty meter overlapping strip method.

Only when the sniper team spots a target or a suspicious object will they switch to the M49 scope to make a positive identification or detailed description of the object. To use the M49 scope any more than this, you run the risk of extreme eye fatigue.

While conducting these searches the team must make mental notes of prominent terrain features and areas that may offer the enemy cover and concealment. These areas should also be noted an the sketch.

14. Maintaining Observation: Once again, the best instrument for making both hasty and detailed searches are the binos. After completing the detailed search the sniper team will maintain a constant observation of the area. This is done by making quick glances at various points throughout the entire area, focusing the eyes on specific points.

Since it is possible that a hasty search may fail to locate any enemy activity, the team must periodically make detailed searches, especially if the team must alternate duties as observer/sniper so as to reduce fatigue.


------------------------- Extra Informationn added at last min. Not in any order -------

Sniper Formulas

Both MOA and mils are used to measure angles. There are 360 degrees in a complete circle. There are 60 minutes in a degree. A radian is defined as the plane
angle with its vertex at the center of a circle that is subtended by an arc (not a line) equal in length to the radius. There are 2 times Pi (6.283...) radians in a complete
circle. A milliradian is simply one one-thousandth of a radian. We take the mil to mean a distance equal to one one-thousandth of the distance to the target. (The
Army further confuses things by defining a milliradian as 1/6,400th of a circle. Don't worry about that unless you get assigned to an artillery unit.)

 

As shooters we tend to think of one MOA as equaling one inch at 100 yards. Our scopes are usually calibrated to give us one quarter (or one eighth, or one half, or
one, unless it's metric then you get about one third) inch adjustment per click at one hundred yards. The scope manufacturers don't say "quarter minute clicks" but
that's how we interpret it. A true MOA is equal to 1.047 (rounded off) inches at 100 yards. The difference is minor. Even at 1,000 yards it's slightly less than a half
an inch, but it is there. Where we get into trouble is when we start running numbers up on the calculator. One true milliradian equals 3.438 (rounded off) true MOA.
This means one true milliradian equals a very tiny bit less than 3.6 inches at one hundred yards. 3.6 inches at one hundred yards or 36 inches at 1,000 yards is
exactly how we want to use the mil. If you think your calculator is telling you that a mil equals 3.438 inches at 100 yards you are mistaken. Fortunately, the
differences are too minor to make a difference.

 

Just remember that for shooting purposes, virtually all scopes, reticles, and shooter's formulae are calibrated so that one MOA equals one inch at 100 yards and one
mil equals one yard at 1,000 yards.

 

1 actual MOA = 1.047 inches at 100 yards
1 actual milliradian = 3.438 actual MOA
1 actual milliradian = 3.600 inches at 100 yards
1 actual MOA = .291 actual milliradians

 

1 shooter's MOA = 1 inch per 100 yards of range
1 shooter's MOA = .278 mils
1 mil = 3.6 shooter's MOA

 

MOA adjustment times the range in hundreds of yards (600 yards = 6) equals change of impact in inches.

MOA X R = Inches

 

Inches adjustment divided by the range in hundreds of yards equals MOA.

Inches
--- = MOA
R

 

Desired MOA adjustment divided by the resolution of one click equals total adjustment in clicks.

5 MOA
------------- = 20 clicks
1/4 (.25) minute clicks

 

I prefer to memorize my come-ups in clicks rather than MOA.
Total drop in clicks from a 100 yard zero minus the total clicks of all come-ups to the new zero range equals your comeup to that range. Start at 200 yards and
work out.
Clicks at 500 yards minus come-ups to 200, 300, and 400 yards totaled equals come-up from 400 to 500 yards in clicks.

 

The height of an object in yards times 1,000 divided by the apparent height of the object in mils equals the range in yards. Height in meters yields range in meters.

Height X 1000
------ = Range
mils

 

The apparent angle from vertical of mirage divided by 8 equals the windspeed in miles per hour. Mirage angle must be read with the wind blowing directly from the
right or left. Turn your spotting scope if you have to.

Angle
--- = MPH
8

 

The apparent angle from vertical of smoke, flags, or the arm pointing at lightly balled piece of paper dropped from the shoulder divided by 4 equals the windspeed in
miles per hour.

Angle
--- = MPH
4

 

The Marine Corps Windage formula:
Range in 100s of yards (600 yards = 6) times the wind in miles per hour divided by the constant C equals MOA change.

Range X MPH
------ = MOA
C

For the M118 round at sea level

C = 15 for 100 to 500 yards
C = 14 for 600 yards
C = 13 for 700 to 800 yards
C = 12 for 900 yards
C = 11 for 1000 yards

For the M852 round at sea level

C = 13 for 100 to 200 yards
C = 12 for 300 to 400 yards
C = 11 for 500 to 600 yards
C = 10 for 700 to 900 yards
C = 9 for 1000 yards

 

To adjust wind speed for differences in wind direction from ninety degrees from sightline multiply total wind speed by the constant C.

MPH X C = adjusted MPH

If wind direction is 90 degrees from sightline C = 1.0
If wind direction is 65 degrees from sightline C = .9
If wind direction is 45 degrees from sightline C = .75
If wind direction is 30 degrees from sightline C = .5
If wind direction is 15 degrees from sightline C = .25
If wind direction is 0 degrees from sightline C = 0

 

To adjust range for an up or down angle shot multiply the actual range by the Constant C.

Range X C = adjusted range

For an up or down slope of 5 degrees from horizontal C = .99
For an up or down slope of 10 degrees from horizontal C = .98
For an up or down slope of 15 degrees from horizontal C = .96
For an up or down slope of 20 degrees from horizontal C = .94
For an up or down slope of 25 degrees from horizontal C = .91
For an up or down slope of 30 degrees from horizontal C = .87
For an up or down slope of 35 degrees from horizontal C = .82
For an up or down slope of 40 degrees from horizontal C = .77
For an up or down slope of 45 degrees from horizontal C = .70
For an up or down slope of 50 degrees from horizontal C = .64
For an up or down slope of 55 degrees from horizontal C = .57
For an up or down slope of 60 degrees from horizontal C = .50
For an up or down slope of 65 degrees from horizontal C = .42
For an up or down slope of 70 degrees from horizontal C = .34
For an up or down slope of 75 degrees from horizontal C = .26
For an up or down slope of 80 degrees from horizontal C = .17
For an up or down slope of 85 degrees from horizontal C = .09
For an up or down slope of 90 degrees from horizontal C = 0

 

To adjust elevation for an up or down angle shot multiply your total drop from the horizontal boreline by the constant C and hold low by that amount from your
estimated zero.

Drop X C = hold UNDER

For an up or down slope of 5 degrees from horizontal C = .004
For an up or down slope of 10 degrees from horizontal C = .015
For an up or down slope of 15 degrees from horizontal C = .034
For an up or down slope of 20 degrees from horizontal C = .060
For an up or down slope of 25 degrees from horizontal C = .094
For an up or down slope of 30 degrees from horizontal C = .134
For an up or down slope of 35 degrees from horizontal C = .181
For an up or down slope of 40 degrees from horizontal C = .235
For an up or down slope of 45 degrees from horizontal C = .293
For an up or down slope of 50 degrees from horizontal C = .357
For an up or down slope of 55 degrees from horizontal C = .426
For an up or down slope of 60 degrees from horizontal C = .500

 

Bullet time of flight times the speed of the target lateral to the sightline equals total lead. Speed in feet per second yields lead in feet.

Time X Speed = Lead

 

Whenever I change ammunition, rifle, or altitude I work up a complete set of tables. A chronograph and a good ballistics program make this a whole lot easier. I
record all my values in inches, MOA, and mils. For moving target leads I will also figure leads. I run all my charts from 100 to 1,000 yards in 100 yard increments.
For no-reflex hits I also run a set of charts from 25 to 200 yards in 25 yard increments. I record the total drop from the muzzle at each range. I also record the bullet
time of flight. I figure my come-ups, and back calculate from the windage tables to get my constants for the Marine windage formula. With those two progressions
memorized I can handle most of my shooting chores without my tables, if needs be.

 

For my elevation tables I record the drop in inches, MOA, and mils at each range for a zero at each range. That's one hundred sets of numbers for the long range
charts. I only calculate my short range tables for a 100 yard zero. That's 8 sets of numbers. For my short range elevation charts I don't bother converting to mils. I
also record my actual sight settings for each zero range.

 

My windage tables yield inches, MOA, and mils for each range and run from 5 to 30 miles per hour in 5 MPH increments.

 

My moving target chart is calculated for a walk (3 MPH), a trot (6 MPH), and a dash (10 MPH). I figure each range and speed (30 sets of numbers) in inches,
MOA, mils and "leads." A lead is equal to the approximate width of a human body in profile- 12 inches. Leads are very easy to visualize. All moving target leads are
figured from the center of the target.

 

I run my up/down slope adjustment charts from 5 degrees from horizontal to 60 degrees in 5 degree increments and list inches, MOA, and mils. Since this chart will
not be used for quick targets-of-opportunity I calculate the hold under to be adjusted for, after the initial elevation adjustments have been made. Short range slope
adjustment charts are critical for no-reflex shooting.

 

I also have charts listing the mil height and range for men 6 feet, 5 feet 9 inches, and 5 feet 6 inches tall as 6 feet is unusually tall for most parts of the world. That's
another reason I use yards instead of meters. A six foot (2 yards) man appears 2 mils tall at 1000 yards. The mil-dot formula is easy to calculate for two yards. A
man would have to be 6 feet 6 inches tall to measure two meters. They're even rarer than six footers. To plug an average man into the mil-dot formula you'd have to
use 1.77 meters. A little less handy than 2 yards.

6 feet = 2 yards
5 feet 9 inches = 1.9 yards
5 feet 6 inches = 1.8 yards

 

The SEALs found the following changes in elevation applied to their M852 rounds with changes in temperature. The higher the temperature, the higher the bullet
impact.

At 300 yards there is 1 MOA change in elevation per 20 degree change in temperature.
At 600 yards there is 1 MOA change in elevation per 15 degree change in temperature.
At 1000 yards there is 1 MOA change in elevation per 10 degree change in temperature.

 

Only by firing your rifle under field conditions can you determine how much effect temperature will have on your ammunition. If your computer generated charts don't
match your field data you must go with the field data. Sometimes a change in ballistic coefficient will bring the computer in line with the real world.

 

The more of this information you memorize the better off you will be.

Carlos Hathcock required all of his sniper students to carry a card with them at all times. On the card is this list of marksmanship essentials. These apply with each and every shot.

Hathcock's  :  Marksmanship essentials

Body Alignment - Natural Point of Aim
Firm Handshake Grip
Firm in Shoulder
Eye Relief - Spot Weld - No Shadow
Stare at Crosshairs - Target is a Blur
Slow Steady Pressure on Trigger to the Rear
Natural Respiratory Pause
Follow Through








Tactical Loadouts

This is a series of sample first aid kits and tactical loadouts for snipers and special operators. Sources include U.S. Army FM 23-10, Soldier of Fortune Magazine,
John Plaster's The Ultimate Sniper, and a couple of biographical novels. Some of these lists are a bit dated.

 
U.S. Army FM 23-10 sniper loadout

 
Section II

 
MISSION PACKING LISTS

 
The sniper team requires arms and ammunition as determined by METT-T Some of the equipment mentioned in the example lists may not be available. A sniper
team carries only mission-essential equipment normally not associated with a standard infantryman.

 

5-15. ARMS AND AMMUNITION

 

As a minimum, the sniper team requires arms and ammunition that should include the following:

 
a. Sniper:
 
•M24 sniper weapon system with M3A scope.
•M9 bayonet.
•100 rounds M118 special ball.
•M9 pistol.
•45 rounds 9-mm ball ammunition.
•4 M67 fragmentation grenades; 2 CS grenades; 2 concussion grenades (MOUT).
•M18A1 mine, complete.
 

b. Observer:

 
•M16A1/A2/M203 with quadrant sight and AN/PVS-4 mounted.
•M9 9-mm pistol.
•M9 bayonet.
•210 (plus) rounds 5.56-mm ball ammunition.
•45 rounds 9-mm ball ammunition.
•6 rounds 40-mm high-explosive ammunition.
•3 rounds 40-mm antipersonnel ammunition.
•4 M67 fragmentation grenade, 2 CS grenades; 2 concussion grenades (MOUT).
 

5-16. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT


The sniper team requires special equipment that may include, but not be limited to the following:

 
a. Sniper:

•M24 sniper weapon system deployment kit (tools and replacement parts).
•M9 pistol cleaning kit.
•Extra handset for radio.
•Extra batteries for radio (BA 4386 or lithium, dependent on mission length).
•SOI.
•M15 tripod.
•M49 observation telescope.
•AN/PVS-5/7 series, night vision goggles.
•Extra BA-1567/U or AA batteries for night vision goggles.
•Pace cord.
•E-tool with carrier.
•50-foot 550 cord.
•1 green and 1 red star cluster.
•2 HC smoke grenades.
•Measuring tape (25-foot carpenter-type).
•3 each 9-mm magazines.

 
b. Observer:


•M16A1/A2 cleaning kit.
•M203 cleaning kit.
•AN/PRC-77/AN-PRC-119/AN/PRC-104A radios.
•Radio accessory bag, complete with long whip and base, tape antenna and base, handset, and battery (BA-4386 or lithium).
•300-feet WD-1 field wire (for field-expedient antenna fabrication).
•Olive-drab duct tape ("100-mph" tape).
•Extra batteries for radio (if needed).
•Extra batteries (BA-1567/U) for AN/PVS-4.
•M19/M22 binoculars.
•Sniper's data book, mission logbook, range cards, wind tables, and "slope dope."
•7 each 30-round capacity (5.56-mm) magazines.
•3 each 9-mm magazines.
•Calculator with extra battery.
•Butt pack.
•10 each sandwich-size waterproof bags.
•2 HC smoke grenades.
•Lineman's tool.
•Range estimation (sniper data book).

 

5-17. UNIFORMS AND EQUIPMENT

 
A recommended listing of common uniforms and equipment follows; however, weather and terrain will dictate the uniform. As a minimum, the sniper team should
have the following:

 

•Footgear (jungle/desert/cold weather/combat boots).
•2 sets BDUs (desert/woodland/camouflage).
•Black leather gloves.
•2 brown T-shirts.
•2 brown underwear (optional).
•8 pair olive-drab wool socks.
•Black belt.
•Headgear (BDU/jungle/desert/cold weather).
•ID tags and ID card.
•Wristwatch (sweep second hand with luminous dial/waterproof).
•Pocket survival knife.
•Extra large ALICE pack, complete with frame and shoulder straps.
•2 waterproof bags (for ALICE pack).
•2 two-quart canteens with covers.
•1 bottle water purification tablets.
•LBE complete.
•Red-lensed flashlight (angle-head type with extra batteries).
•MREs (number dependent on mission length).
•9-mm pistol holster and magazine pouch (attached to LBE).
•2 camouflage sticks (METT-T dependent).
•2 black ink pens.
•2 mechanical pencils with lead.
•2 black grease pencils.
•Lensatic compass.
•Map(s) of operational area and protractor.
•Poncho.
•Poncho liner.
•1 each ghillie suit complete.
•1 each protective mask/MOPP suit.
•Foot powder.
•Toiletries.
•FM 23-10.

 
5-18. OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
 

Certain situations may require equipment for specialized tasks and is METT-T dependent. The following equipment may prove useful in different climates/operational
areas:

 

•M203 vest.
•Desert camouflage netting.
•Natural-colored burlap.
•Glitter tape.
•VS-17 panel.
•Strobe light with filters.
•Special patrol insertion/extraction system harness.
•12-foot sling rope.
•2 each snap links.
•120-foot nylon rope.
•Lip/sun screen.
•Signal mirror.
•Pen gun with flares.
•Chemical lights (to include infrared).
•Body armor/flak jacket.
•Sniper veil.
•Sewing kit.
•Insect repellant.
•Sleeping bag.
•Knee and elbow pads.
•Survival kit.
•Rifle drag bag.
•Pistol silencer/suppressor.
•2.5-pounds C4 with caps, cord, fuze, and igniter.
•Rifle bipod/tripod.
•Empty sandbags.
•Hearing protection (ear muffs).
•Thermometer.
•Laser range finder.
•Thermal imager.
•Pocket binoculars.
•35-mm automatic loading camera with appropriate lenses and film.
•1/2-inch camcorder with accessories.
•Satellite communications equipment.
•Short-range radio with earphone and whisper microphone.
•Field-expedient antennas.
•Information reporting formats.
•Encryption device for radio.

 

5-19. SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT (MOUT)

 
For operations in urban areas, the following tools and equipment are most useful; however, they are subject to availability:

 •Pry bar.
•Pliers.
•Screwdriver.
•Rubber-headed hammer.
•Glass cutter.
•Masonry drill and bits.
•Metal shears.
•Chisel.
•Auger.
•Lock pick, skeleton keys, cobra pick.
•Bolt cutters.
•Hacksaw or handsaw.
•Sledgehammer.
•Axe.
•Ram.
•Power saw.
•Cutting torch.
•Shotgun.
•Spray paint.
•Stethoscope.
•Maps/street plans.
•Photographs, aerial and panoramic.
•Whistle.
•Luminous tape.
•Flex cuffs.
•Padlocks.
•Intrusion detection system (booby traps).
•Portable spotlights.
•Money.
•Civilian attire.

 

5-20. ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT TRANSPORT

 

The planned use of air and vehicle drops and caching techniques eliminates the need for the sniper team to carry extra equipment. Another method is to use the
stay-behind technique when operating with a security patrol. (See Chapter 7.) Through coordination with the security patrol leader, the team's equipment may be
distributed among the patrol members. On arrival at the ORP, the security patrol may leave behind all mission-essential equipment. After completing the mission, the
team may cache the equipment for later pickup, or it may be returned the same way it was brought in.



Soldier of Fortune May 1992 MACV-SOG recon teams loadout

 
Individual equipment:
 

sterile fatigues
boonie hat with portion of flourescent panel sewn inside top
jungle boots
pistol belt
harness
first aid packet
pill kit (antibiotics, pain killers, etc.)
knife (heavy and sharp)
4 canteens with purification tablets attached
flourescent orange panel
4-6 ammo pouches
rations
maps
can opener (or pocket knife with can opener)
insect repellant
radio
6 foot length nylon cord
2 snap links
2 plastic bags at least 1 foot square each
2 OD cravat bandages
SOI and KAC (signal operating instructions and field codes)
gloves
claymore
smoke
compass
small survival kit
individual weapon
signal mirror
strobe light
pen flare gun with 4-6 flares
rucksack with reinforced straps
weapon cleaning equipment
pancho
waterproof matches
jungle sweater
penlight
Swiss seat
notebook and pencil
grenades
extra socks
serum albumin kit

 

Team equipment:
 
camera and film
radio
mines and booby traps
binoculars
M79
antiintrusion devices

 
Optional:

 

wiretap
demolition
night vision
prisoner snatch
etc.


Soldier of Fortune first aid kit


needle nose tweezers
25 band aids
Cutter snake bite kit
oral thermometer
1 tube betadine ointment
Tylenol
2 ampules ammonia inhalant
small scissors
forceps or hemostat
benzedrex inhaler
chapstick
8 sterile packaged alcohol swabs
4 antiseptic wet cleansing towel packs
50 mg demerol (1 container)
50 mg lomotil (1 container)
25 mg bonine (1 container)
1 roll 1" adhesive tape
eye wash
1 packet sterile suturing needles and sutures
4 2"X2" 8 ply sterile gauze sponges
4 3"X9" nitrofurazone sterile gauze pads
4 4"X4" sterile cover sponges
book matches
1 pack sterile surgical blades
4-6 safety pins
1 roll gauze bandage


Camping January 1975 first aid kit

sterile 4X4s
roller gauze
larger pressure dressings
ace bandages (at least two sizes)
bandaids (assorted shapes and sizes)
wide adhesive tape
moleskin
forceps or tweezers
scissors
safety pins
q tips
aspirin
prescription anesthetics
penicillin tablets
tetracycline (for penicillin sensitives)
general eye drops
local anaesthetic eye drops
seconal, 100mg. short acting (sleep)
sunscreen
zinc oxide
lomotil, 2.5 mg (bowels)
paregoric (bowels)
cepacol anaesthetic throat lozenges


The Five Fingers Gayle Rivers tactical loadout
machete
6" dagger
pancho
morphine
elastic bandages
wadding for plugging wounds
dowling for splints
benzedrine
quinine
vitamins
3 three day K ration packs
barley
sugar cubes
salt tablets
penicillin tablets
dried figs and apricots
2 corks to burn and rub into wounds to prevent infection
soap
toothbrush
toothpaste
chewing gum
mess kit
2 canteens
watch
swabs
anitnausea pills
sewing kit- thread, needles, plastic scissors
gun cleaning kit
sharpening flint
underwear
socks

Dear Mom; a Sniper's Diary Joseph T. Ward tactical loadout

pancho and liner
pack
cookies, hard candy, kool aid, dried soups
3 boxes C rations
4+ canteens
2 cans foot powder
BFI powder blood coagulant
2 rolls black tape
toilet paper
cooking cup
grease paint- black, brown, dark green, light green
web belt
tool kit for scope
3 K rations
zinc oxide
first aid kit
halazone tablets
ammo pouch- 80 rounds match .308
vitamins
extra batteries for nite site, flashlight, strobe light
insect repellent
Swiss army knife
shaving gear, soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
4 battle dressings
tactical maps
writing gear
3 T-shirts
2 washcloths
2 towels
rifle cleaning rod
gun oil
linseed oil
kill sheets
bush hat
2 pairs boot laces
6 pairs cotton socks
fatigues
transister radio
camera and film
flashlight
C4 plastique
compass
turkish battle axe
zippo lighter
field glasses
wire cutters
strobe light



The Ultimate Sniper John Plaster tactical loadout
 

Large rucksack:
body armor
ground pad
rappelling gear
large tripod
entrenching tool
overwhites
wool sweater
jungle hat
duct tape
bungee cords
mini cassette
pen flares
extra chemlights
luminous tape
piddle packs
bandages
antiseptic ointment
insect headnet
extra ammunition
poncho/ground cloth
large knife
full size binoculars
gore tex pants
polypro underwear
thinsulate liner
dry socks
camoflage tape
tree steps
strobe light
large smoke grenade
reflective tacks
rations/MRE
chemical handwarmers
toothbrush and paste
iodine tablets
medical pills

 

Additional gear:
kevlar helmet
ghillie suit
telephoto lenses
sleeping bag
camouflage netting
gas mask
still camera
video camera
night vision
 

LBE:
ammo
hand held radio
small knife
mini binoculars
compass
canteen
whistle
insect repellant
mini thermometer
beef jerkey
alcohol wipes
spare pistol mags
ear protection
penlight with filter
chemical mace
camouflage paste
strobe light
bandage
plastic restraint
chewing gum
pencil and notebook

 

Small rucksack:
spotting scope
empty cloth bag
knee and elbow pads
folding saw
18" X 18" canvas
lubricant
cleaning patches
treesteps
spandoflage veil
watch cap
gloves
spare batteries
signal mirror
small smokes
chemical handwarmer
cigarettes
plastic restraints
duct tape
piddle pack
rations/MRE
lightweight tripod
beanbag
wind guage
snips
cleaning rod
copper solvent
lens paper
goretex jacket
mesh cammo suit
scarf
large flashlight
chemlights
signal panel
map with alcohol markers
parachute cord or boot laces
silicone cement
facial tissue
canned juice
sunflower seeds

---------------------------------------------------------

3 elements of a good shooting position

BONE SUPPORT:  The body's skeletal structure provides a stable foundation to support the rifle's weight. A weak shooting position will not withstand the repeated recoil of a rifle when firing at a sustained rate or buffeting from wind. To attain a correct shooting position, the bones of the body must support as much of the rifle's weight as possible.

MUSCULAR RELAXATION:  Muscular relaxation helps to hold steady and increase the accuracy of aiming. Muscular relaxation also allows the maxmum use of bone support to create a minmum arc of movement and consistency in resistance to recoil.

NATURAL POINT OF AIM:  Natural point of aim is the point at which the rifle sights settle when bone support and muscular relaxation are achieved.



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Check back ever other week or once a month for updated version or for more Info.

If it is raining and you can not go shoot and your stuck at home practice inside WITH OUT AMMO AND SAVE MONEY!
Snap in. (practice getting into and staying in different positions for 1 - 2 min dry firing your weapon untill you can drop in to position and not have to adujst hardly at all.)