journey through mysterious wales, learn its history, places of battle, its holy sites, castles and ghosts

Through the centuries successive English monarchs tried to conquer Wales and subdue its people, which is why there are more castles per square mile here than any other country in the world. Battles and death their have been, and nearly every inch of Welsh soil is drenched in blood where the Cymry have fought to preserve their land and way of life. It is said that somewhere in the mountains of Snowdonia, in a mist shrouded cave, torchlight gleams on Arthur and his knights, as they wait for the day they will be called once more into battle, somewhere, the spirit of Owain Glyndwr, hand on sword, listens, and waits. In days long gone, these tales would have been told around the flickering firelight and sparks from the torchlight, with shadows dancing, the gleam of a sword and held breath as the bard told his tale, tales of courage, honour, blood and death. I am not a Bard, nor do you sit in a smoky dark cave with a sword in hand, but hopefully you will let your imagination travel, to this land I call home, and join those that used to be.
Firstly a little necessary history.
Previous to the coming of the Romans, the whole of Britain was inhabited by tribes who probably had little knowledge of anything but their own piece of land. Names emerge from these primitive times, Cymbeline lived in the south east and was known as the "King of Britons", but we can be fairly sure those tribes who inhabited Wales at this time would never have admitted that he was any king of theirs. They would have been too busy surviving skirmishes with their neighbours to worry about such things as kings and princes. At this time Wales was divided into four parts, which were later to become Bangor, St Asaph, St David’s and Llandaff. In the south and southeast a tribe called the Silures, Northward dwelt the Ordivices who were known has "Hammer men" from their habit of going into battle swinging flint headed hammers, Westwards lived the Demaete, and in the mountains of Snowdon and the isle of Anglesey many smaller tribes clung onto what land they had. Once the Romans began their takeover of Britain, Wales had its first hero whose battles were to become celebrated.

The Romans
Prince Caracatus, one of the sons of King Cunobelinus, fled westwards when his fathers kingdom was seized by the Roman General Aulus Plautius. In the southeast all was lost, but Caracatus rallied the Silures and Ordovices to battle the Romans, who were desperate to capture Wales for their mines. He led as a guerrilla leader as the Romans tried to break into Wales. Eventually the might of Rome proved too strong and Caracatus was beaten. A hill near Shropshire named Cefn Caradoc is believed to be where the battle took place, but others set the place as Cefn Carnedd, Llanidloes, or at Dolforwyn Castle near Newtown, but the site has never been positively identified. The Prince was not killed, but managed to escape, only to be betrayed by Queen Cartimandua, and handed over to the Romans, who eventually gave him a pardon.
Meanwhile the tribesmen of Wales continued to remain undefeated. By 49 AD. most of southern England was under Roman rule, and had reached as far north as Trent, and west to the Dee and the Severn. Ostorius who defeated Caracatus tried to consolidate his army by building Caerleon-on-Usk, which he found almost impossible, his troops being constantly attacked by the Welsh tribes, who would appear from the trees and cause havoc amongst the workers and soldiers who found themselves unable to deal with guerrilla tactics. Soon after Ostorius died. Although he had not died in battle, the feelings around the tribal campfires were triumphant, since it was obviously worry about the war that had killed him. And for several years after his death, no further action was taken to conquer Wales

About eight years later, another general, Suetonius Paulinus, led the legions westwards in an effort to capture Anglesey. As well as being the sacred isle of the Druids, Anglesey was noted for the fact that it was where fugitives sought shelter. The tribesmen would never stand against armed forces in a pitched battle, being so lightly armed themselves, and as Suetonius and his men went further and further into Wales the tribes melted into the mountains of Snowdonia, a stronghold that could never be captured, and from where the Welsh could ambush the Legionnaires. Suetonius led his troops as far as the Menai Straits. The cavalry urged their horses into the water and sat astride their mounts as they made for the opposite shore. The Roman historian Tacitus describes what happened; " On the shore stood the forces of the enemy, a dense array of arms and men, with women dashing through the ranks like the furies, their dress was funeral, their hair dishevelled, and they carried torches in their hands. The Druids around the host, pouring forth dire imprecations with their hands uplifted towards the heavens, struck terror into the soldiers by the strangeness of the sight; insomuch that, as if their limbs were paralysed, they exposed their bodies to the weapons of the enemy without attempting to move." However, in spite of their shock at this reception, the soldiers did not hesitate for long. Tacitus continues; " At the earnest exhortations of their general, and from their own mutual importunities that they would not be scared by a rabble of women and fanatics, they bore down upon them, smote all who opposed them to the earth, and wrapped them in the flames they had themselves kindled." The Romans killed everyone who stood in their way, including the women and unarmed Druids; blood would have stained the Menai crimson that day. Suetonius` men over ran the island, dragging forth-cowering victims who tried to hide, tearing down the sacred groves where the Druids had carried out their rites.

But as Anglesey shuddered beneath the feet of Rome, Suetonius received word that Bodicea, the Icini and the other rebel tribes had rebelled. Suetonius and his men withdrew to meet the new threat, and Wales was left to lick its wounds. And for another ten years, while the whole country recovered from the terrible bloodshed in which seventy thousand troops had been cut down by the southerly tribes, and Suetonius had replied by slaughtering more than that number of Britons, the country was quiet, and the Romans considered the wild land to the west conquered.

Eventually the Welsh mines tempted Rome to make renewed efforts to conquer the Silures and the Ordovices, and between 74 AD. and 78 AD. Two generals, Julius Frontinus and his successor Julius Agricola, took up the “conquest” of Wales. Frontinus managed to completely subdue South Wales, though the northern tribes remained just as much a worry as ever. It was left to Agricola, who arrived on the scene in 78 AD. to tackle the notorious Hammer men and the hordes that occupied the mountains of Snowdon, as well as the new population that had established itself on Anglesey since the slaughter of the Druids. The tribesmen fell before his advance and having nearly wiped out the fighting force of the tribe marched on to the coast. Utterly disheartened, Anglesey surrendered and the Conquest of Wales was complete. Agricola pressed on the next year consolidating his forts and garrisons and later proceeded into Scotland where he inflicted crushing defeats on the tribes there.
No effort was made to colonise the "wild country", the tribes were left alone to carry on the old ways. National pride began to surface, and once again the Bards carried their golden words of Ancestral Gods, stories from the mists of time. The Bards promised a great leader would rise, and carry them and Wales once again to glory. Around the campfires, in the deepest woods, the spirit of Wales lived on.

Slaughter of the Saints
Early morning, the mist hanging low over the trees. The hills of Wales against the skyline, In the still morning air you can hear the jingle of harness, the neigh of a horse, and the clash of metal as the warriors arm themselves. Surrounded by his captains, Aethelfrith, King of Northumbria, scans the field, measuring the might of the opposing forces that stand beneath the Welsh banner which hang limply in the still air. The men of Powys have come to support their king, Selyf ap Cynan Garwyn; alongside are the men of eastern Gwynedd, led by Cadwal Crisban of Rhos, whilst around them are the banners and men of lesser princes. To the front strides Prince Brochfael Ysgythrog, grandfather of the young Selyf of Powys, a huge crowd of robed monks take up positions around him to lend their countrymen support. The air is now filled with the sound of deep throated chanting, as the monks raise their hands to the heavens. Aethelfrith, s face contorts with anger, "The monks fight against me as surly as if they bore arms" and gives the signal to attack, "Spare no-one who stands against me in this field". Helpless as the troops of Northumbria charge upon them, the monks are swept down like blades of grass beneath a scythe, their prayers still on their lips, empty hands uplifted in prayer to the heavens. Twelve hundred were cut down in the "slaughter of the saints", only fifty monks managed to escape before the two armies of Wales and Northumbria was joined, and the battle began in earnest. The horses staggered foot deep in churned up earth and blood, while the flower of Welsh chivalry fell. By evening Selyf and Cadwal lay dead, their sightless eyes and those of their men seeming to look towards the hills of the country they had given their life for. Selyf was the first Welsh king to lay down his life against the English, and as word of his death spread throughout Wales, the bards told the tale of the battle that would keep those fallen heroes remembered, and of the cruel slaughter of twelve hundred men of God as they prayed for their countrymen.

Below are a few short mentions of battles that were fought during the many years of conflict for the Welsh homeland

Battle (Powys)
Near Brecon, Takes its name from a battle fought here in 1093 in which Bleddyn ap Maenyrch, the last of the Brychan princes was killed by Bernard de Newmarch. In the area is Cwm Gwyr y Gad-Vale of the battle men.
Bwlch y Gwyddel (Gwynedd)
This name translates into the Pass of the Irishmen and is near Snowdon. According to tradition it was once the scene of a battle between the Britons and the invading Irish. It would seem that the Irish won the day and settled in Nant Gwynant.
Cefn Digall (Powys)
A great battle took place here on Hir Mynedd in the seventh century between Cadwallawn and Edwin, King of Northumbria. There is a circular encampment on the summit of the hill called the Brecon Ring, which was probably involved in the conflict. It was said that after this great battle the Severn was coloured with blood from its source to the estuary.
Cerrig y Gwyddel (Gwynedd)
This site is on Anglesey and was where Cadwallon Lawhir (The Long-handed) defeated the Irish and drove them out of North Wales.
Devauden (Gwent)
Is derived from Ffawgdden, meaning beech tree. A battle took place here in 743 A.D. when the Welsh were slaughtered by the Saxon kings Ethelbald of Mercia and Cuthred of Wessex.
Garth Maelwg (Mid Glamorgan)
Is the location of a battle that took place in 720 A.D. between Arfael and the Saxons. Three huge cairns are supposed to mark the burial place of those who fell. Rhiw Saeson (Saxons Slope)
is possibly the site of the battle. Arthfael was killed fighting the Saxons near Cardiff and he was buried at Roath.
Hirwaun (Mid Glamorgan)
Is derived from Hirwaun Wrgan, which means Gwrgan`s long meadow. It was here at the end of the eleventh century, that a battle was fought between Iestyn ap Gwrgan, with his Norman allies, against the forces of Rhys ap Tewdwr, Prince of Dynevor. Rhys fled from the battle and was captured and beheaded at Penrhys in the Rhondda Valley, where a monastery was later built over his burial site. There are several cairns in the Hirwaun area that are reputed to be monuments to this great battle and some name refer to this event, for example, Maes y Gwaed (The Field of Blood), Carn y Frwydr (Battle Cairn) and Gadlys (The Hall of Battle).
Llantilio Crossenny (Gwent)
This is where the Welsh king Iddon; son of Ynyr Gwent fought the Saxons in the late sixth century. The battle was not going in Iddon`s favour until St Teilo prayed for victory and the Welsh won the day. A cross was put up to mark the spot where Teilo prayed.
Llechryd (Dyfed)
Is the scene of a battle in 1067 between Rhys ap Tewdwr and the three sons of Bleddyn ap Cynfyn, in which the sons were defeated and to of them slain on the battleground.
Maes Mawr y Gad (Gwynedd)
Anglesey. This is where the Romans massacred the Druids in the first century A.D. See above. The name means `Field of the Great Army. ` Suetonius arrived in North Wales in 60 A.D. and constructed some flat-bottomed boats to carry his legionnaires across the waters of the Menai Straits. His cavalry crossed on the backs of their horses, The crossing was probably somewhere between Aber and Beaumaris. The Druids stood with their white robes and long beards, solemnly chanting and uttering curses on the Roman invaders. The sight of the Druids struck terror into the superstitious soldiers, but was coaxed into battle by their general. The soldiers surged forward and descended on the Druids in overwhelming numbers. Men, women and children were all slaughtered. The sacred groves were felled and burned, and the island of Mona, the sanctuary of the Druids and the seat of the Arch Druid, was left ruined and desolate.
Mynydd y Gaer (Mid Glamorgan)
Above Cwm Ogwr Fach is a fascinating hill where numerous encampments and burial mounds can be seen. Their are legends of ancient battles taking place on this hill and where the trig point now stands is known as Mynwent y Milwyr (The Soldiers Burial Place).
Mynydd Llangattock (Powys)
Two huge cairns mark the location of a great battle, which was fought here in 728 A.D. between Ethelbald the Mercian and the men of Morgannwg, led by Rhoderic Molwynog. The remains of a warrior were discovered in one of the cairns. The waters of the Usk were to prove fatal for the men of Ethelbald, while they were trying to make their escape they were swept away and drowned.
Twyn y Beddau (Powys)
A large mound can be seen about two miles from Hay on Wye under the shadow of the Black Mountains. It is said to mark the spot where a huge battle was once fought. `The carnage was so great that the stream, the Dulas, ran red with blood for three whole days.

500-100
B.C. The Celts settle in Wales.
43 A.D. Troops of Roman Emperor Claudius invade Britain. It takes 35 years to fully conquer Wales. (78 A.D.)
350 Irish raiders make permanent settlements in Southwest Wales.
410 Four hundred years of occupation end for Britain as the Romans leave. Saxon invaders seize the opportunity and start invading. Waves of Saxons descend upon Britain.
500 The Saxons are defeated at Mount Badon. One of King Arthur's twelve battles. Supposed rule of King Arthur for 45 plus years. This is also the period of Saints. Celtic saints set up sites throughout Wales teaching Christianity. In the east of Britain, the Saxons remain pagan.
784 Offa of Mercia, a powerful Saxon king, builds Offa's Dyke, marking Wales's eastern boundary. The Dyke is not a fortified one, but a permanent boundary line.
878 The most notable Welsh figure before the arrival of the Normans is slain. Rhodri Mawr was the first Welsh ruler to unite the Welsh tribes and kingdoms under one rule. During his reign, the Vikings increase their raids.
927 Welsh kings formally submit to the English as over-king.
1039 The last of the Welsh high-kings, Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, assumes the throne. His short, 20 plus years, rule brings unity to Wales.
1063 The English, under future king Earl Harold, drive their army into Wales. His own men kill Gruffydd ap Llywelyn and relatives and England's ascendancy is reaffirmed.
1066 At the Battle of Hastings King Harold is killed. The Norman conquest of England is assured. Marcher Lords are established along the Welsh borders.
1141 Henry the First dies and Wales experiences resurgence under the two Llywelyns of Gwynedd. Wales moves toward unity as their territory is reclaimed and the culture flourishes.
1215 The Magna Carta signed. Welsh lands taken unjustly are restored and some Welsh laws return.
1267 Llywelyn II with the Treaty of Montgomery is recognized as Prince of Wales, with overlordship of all other Welsh Princes and Barons.
1282 Llwyelyn II is killed in battle and Wales's resurgence comes to an end. Wales falls beneath Edward the First's advances. Wales becomes an English principality under the Statute of Rhuddlan. In the future, the eldest son of the English king is designated Prince of Wales. The building of castles in Wales is started by Edward I.
1301 At Caernarvon Castle Edward's son is invested as the Prince of Wales.
1349 The Plague, or Black Death, sweeps through Wales, leaving up to 40 percent of the population dead.
1400 Owain Glyndwr, with the whole of Wales behind him, leads a revolt against England.
1410 Owain Glyndwr's short rebellion ends as he disappears. Henry IV and his son suppress the rebellion. Defeat means second class citizenship for the Welsh and humiliation.
1455 The War of Roses starts in England as the Yorks and Lancastrians fight for the throne.
1485 Henry Tudor, of Welsh descent, wins the Battle of Bosworth and becomes the first Welsh King of England. This marks the end of the War of Roses and establishes the Welsh lineage to the English throne.
1536 Henry VIII enacts the first Act of Union which completes the political and legal union of England and Wales. Wales falls under the English shire system and the first dissolution of the monasteries begins.
1588 The Bible is published in Welsh. One of the most important events to continue the language.
1642 Civil War breaks out in England and is welcomed in Wales.
1660 Charles II is restored and Wales rejoices. The Bardic Order starts its decay, suffering from a loss of patronage and the influence of the new Humanism.
1718 Books printed in Welsh flourish as printing presses are introduced in Wales.
1735 The Methodist Revival begins.
1795 South Wales becomes the Iron Industries strong hold.
1811 Wales becomes a "non-conformist nation" as the Methodists break with the Church of England.
1815 European peace after the Napoleonic Wars bring Welsh farming to a point of crisis. Soaring population adds to the discontent.
1831 The Merthyr uprising. Debtors Court is ransacked by debt stricken workers. The town is raided of sequestered goods and troops are brought in, leaving two dozen towns people dead. For the next ten years Welsh miners stage "Scotch Cattle" raids taking action against blacklegs.
1839 High toll taxes lead to the first of the Rebecca Riots. Turnpikes are smashed in the rural areas.
1843 In his famous "Letter to the Welsh People", Hugh Owen calls for all Welsh to take action to further the cause of education. He sees it as an essential pre-requisite to Welsh prosperity.
1850's Rapid development of coal mining in the Rhondda valley. South Wales coal fields become one of the most important in the world. Cardiff's port is busy.
1868 Liberal political supremacy is established. The Liberals hold 21 Welsh seats.
1872 The University College at Aberystwyth is founded. Soon colleges are founded at Bangor, Cardiff, and Swansea.
1881 "Dry Sunday" is adopted in Wales. Pubs stay shut.
1891 The "Tithe War" leads to the Tithe Act that transfers payments of tithes to the Anglican Church from resentful non-conformist tenants to the landlords.
1906 Liberals sweep the General Election.
1908 Lloyd George is made Chancellor of the Exchecquer.

SIGNIFICANT WELSH HISTORY DATES