Makeup Application

 
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EYES
how to shape and groom your eyebrows ? 
well shaped and groomed brows can make your eyes look bigger and open up your face naturally than a load of make-up will . Similarly heavy brows can overpower your face . Shape your brows by plucking hairs from underneath , not from the top as this distorts your natural line . To determine the shape that best frames your eyes and face , the time honored method is to hold a pencil vertically alongside one nostril . The point where it meets the brow is your natural starting point . Tweeze stray hairs between brows . To find end point of brow , angle the pencil past the outer corner of your eye ( like a forward slash ) , starting from the corner of the nose . The point where it hits your brow is the end point . Pluck stray hairs beyond that point and also from below the natural arc but take care not to over pluck .
NOTE - Tweeze after you shower as it will be less painful . 
how to choose the right eyeliner ? 
Which eyeliner you choose depends on the look you want to achieve and what's easiest for you . Liquid , gel and felt-tip type liners create strong , well-defined lines . Powdery pencil and fat crayon liners are better when you want a softer , smudgy effect . Creamy liners create a strong as well as a smudgy look . WHICH COLORS ? ... Dark brown is a universal flatterer . Neutral grays , Khakis and Browns are also good buys . Black works on all but the fairest skin types . Though it is dramatic it may not be right for daily wear .          
NOTE - Chilling pencil liners in the refrigerator for a few minutes before sharpening makes them less prone to breaking .   
how to apply eyeliner ? 
It is generally best to apply eyeliner after eye-shadow . This gives you the choice of either smudging it into the shadow or leaving it as it is . Use an eyeliner brush with powder because it gives better control . Line both top and bottom lids if you want your eyes to stand out or if your eyes are small and need opening up . For a more modern look line only one lid ( top ) .        
For a creamy pencil , liquid , gel , or pen , use the tip of the brush or point for the finest line right at the base of your eyelashes . Angle the point for a heavier look . Extend the line from one corner of your eye to the other ( if you feel that this look is too harsh then start instead at the point at the inside corner of your lid , where your lashes begin ) .
For a powdery pencil or crayon , begin either at the corner of your eye ( where lashes begin ) or from the outer third of your lid . Smudge liner just enough to blur the edge , pushing color on to your lid and/or just towards the corners . 
Lining of lower lids should be done with a light hand and never directly on the rim of the lid . Generally a liquid liner is too hard for lower lids . Stick with one of the softer effects . If your upper lid is liquid lined then you need not line your lower lid at all .   
mascara and your eyelashes  
TIPS - To make your mascara thinner put it in warm water . Always use less mascara on your lower lashes ( NONE in case you have dark circles , wrinkled or swollen skin . There are TWO METHODS OF APPLYING MASCARA - one : Put on mascara before applying foundation or concealer , so that you can cover-up any smudges . two : Put on mascara last so that the lashes wont get dusted when you apply powder . EITHER WAY , you need to TWIRL THE BRUSH WHILE APPLYING .   
Hold the brush horizontally for the upper lashes . Start at the base and wiggle it up to maximize separation and lushness . Allow the first coat to dry completely , then repeat . Hold the brush vertically for the lower lashes and sweep it lightly across them . For lengthening your lashes just fluff a little extra bit of mascara at the tips of your lashes .    
eye-shadow  
To make your small eyes appear bigger use a light shade eye-shadow . Similarly to make your protruding eyes appear smaller use a darker shade eye-shadow .
method of application
Use an eye-shadow brush and apply a light shade on your lids from the lash-line to your brow . Use a fluffy brush and apply a medium shade on your lower lid from lash-line to the crease of your eye . Apply darker shade along the lash-line . The direction of application is always from inner corner of your lid to outer , with upward motion and over the entire lid . 
how to choose the right eye-shadow for you ? 
Eye-shadows come in powder , stick or cream varieties . All three come in matte , iridescent or satin finishes . Powder gives a soft finish and is generally packaged in several shades in one pack itself . Stick types are useful in real , quick , make-up routines and look best in neutral shades . TIP - A thin layer of foundation beneath the eye-shadow boosts it's staying power and helps in hiding the creases on your lids . Wait for a few seconds before applying your shadow so that the foundation settles properly .    

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LIPS
how to select the right shade of lipstick ? 
Select a lipstick and lip-liner in matching shades . The liner should be just a shade darker that the lipstick or at the most of the same shade , not lighter . The fairer skin types look good in blue undertone reds , lightest pinks , honey , mocha and pinkish beiges .Medium skin types look best in rich reds with brown or yellow undertones , brown undertone pinks , medium browns from mocha to caramel . Redheads need brownish undertones like raisin reds and deep peach shades . Deeper skin tones look best with brownish reds and berries , deepest pinks , chocolate , yellow browns , and plumy browns .
TIP - A lipstick always appears darker in a tube , pot or pencil than it will when applied on your lips .   
correct method of application 
Apply a lip balm on lips to make your lipstick last longer . With the lip-liner mark the outline of your lips . To make broader lips look thinner mark the line inside ie. below your actual lip-line and cover the extra part with foundation . If you want to broaden your thin lips , mark outside ie. above your actual lip-line . After defining your new lip-line , fill inside with lipstick shade of your choice . For proper and even spreading use a lip-brush .

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NAILS
how to apply nail enamel ? 
Remove the old polish from your hands and clean thoroughly . There should be no cream left on your nails when you apply your enamel . It is recommended that you apply a single coat of top and base coat first . Then stroke the nail enamel through the center of the nail from base to tip . Now stroke the enamel around the base of nail without touching the skin and down one side of the nail . Then do so for other side of nail too . Wipe across the tip of polished nail with thumb or a tissue to prevent any chipping of the nail enamel . Apply a second coat of enamel quickly with long , light strokes , only , after the initial coat has dried completely . For a perfect finish apply 3 coats of frosted nail enamel and 2 coats of matte nail enamel . Short and broad nails will look much slender if you leave a narrow line on each side of nail unpolished . 
NOTE - 
Make sure that the nail enamel is thin enough to flow evenly and smoothly . If thick add 2-3 drops of thinner hours before use .  
Avoid applying nail enamel under a fan . 

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NOSE
If you want to make your nose appear small ( in width ) and longer then follow the following method - Start drawing your eyebrows a little upwards than the start point at the nose . Apply a slightly darker shade foundation for the sides of your nose than for the rest of the face and use a lighter shade for the upper nose-line . Join the shades neatly and evenly at the center of your nose . This technique works even for people with wider noses .
NOTE - you should take care and prevent any formation of blackheads . 

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CHIN
The same technique as for nose can be used for your chin too . If you want to make your chin look sharp then use a dark shade of foundation on both it's sides . To highlight a small and pressed-down chin , use a lighter shade on both the sides . If your chin bone is big and your face is square shaped then use a brown color pancake to hide the chin lines . If you are using dark and light shade combinations then balance the shades to look even . 

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FOUNDATION
how to choose the right foundation ? 
To test whether a particular shade matches your skin tone , apply a little to your jaw-line . If the foundation is invisible , it is closest to your skin shade . If you cant find a foundation of right shade then choose two shades , one light than and other darker than your skin shade and blend them together to achieve the right shade . Always check your foundation in daylight . If your skin is dry , pick a foundation with creamy and moisturizing formulas . If oily , pick oil-free or water-based foundations . For natural look use a liquid foundation while for a heavier look go for the stick type foundations . Use liquid foundation for dry skin . Pink tone foundation for dull skin . Natural shade foundation for medium skin . Brown shade foundation for dark skin . and Golden shade foundation for fair skin types .   
steps to wear foundation 
Shake the foundation vigorously before applying . 
If your skin is oily , apply astringent or iced water after cleansing your face . Let dry .  
If your skin is dry , apply moisturizer . 
If you sweat too much apply ice cubes to your face before applying any make-up . Cleanse your face and then apply moisturizer . 
Slightly damp a sponge and put dots of foundation with the sponge on to your face . Spread evenly using upward strokes only . Blend well .  
Apply liquid foundation to your eyelids as this will allow your eye-shadow to stick better preventing any creasing and thus stay on longer . 

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POWDER
A powder gives a matte finish appearance . One should always pick a natural shade compact . Powder can be used even in absence of a foundation or concealer . It helps your make-up to stay much longer . Powder also prevents any shine on the face . For liquid foundation use a translucent block powder , for cream foundations use translucent loose powder and you can go for any powder if using a jell based foundation .
NOTE - You should not have any lines or creases on your face at the time of applying powder as this will only highlight them more . 

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BLUSH
A blush gives a healthy look to your overall make-up . Use a good quality blush brush . Always use a natural shade and do not use any bright pinks or violets . Place the brush below the cheek-bone and sweep it upwards in a diagonal motion . Never apply blush on apples of cheek and always keep it below the cheek-bone and away from your eyes . The important thing is to blend , blend and blend . 

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