GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS AND TIPS
Read ahead a paragraph or two so you can plan ahead. Lay out items as you dismantle the car and match them up with the new parts. Lay out all carpet pieces to match location and size.
Keep the parts for each area labeled with masking tape and marking pen for easier location later. Small containers such as plastic film canisters or baby food jars that can be taped to the larger parts come in handy. Don't throw all the parts into one container, as you may forget which piece went where.
Don't throw away anything until you are sure you won't need it again. This is a good idea anytime with an older car, considering the decreasing availability of parts.
Where holes are needed in new panels for screws or rivets, place the old panel on top of the panel and tap the awl firmly with a hammer to punch the pilot hole at each spot. Use the old panel or a piece of cardboard under the area you are working to keep from damaging your work area.
Use a knife or scissors to trim carpet and other material. You may lightly tap the material with a hammer to aid sticking the carpet down and removing wrinkles.
Clean and vacuum as you work so you eliminate old abrasive dirt under your new interior. Keep your hands clean and dry while working with new carpet and vinyl.
When gluing, apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry slightly before joining.
Use a good quality cleaner designed to remove glue from carpets and upholstery to remove overspray or glue spills.
Rivets will have to be drilled out with an electric drill and a 1/8" drill bit. If a rivet starts to spin as you drill, hold it in place with the tip of a flat screwdriver and then place the drill at a slight angle.
Disconnect the battery cables before working, to avoid the possibility of shorting out anything while working. This would be a good time to check the condition of the floor boards, doors, and any other body sections for rust, corrosion and wear. Repair these before installing your new interior.

CARPET REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

The under seat carpets are held in place by the seat frames. The front footwell carpets are held by carpet clips which snap out from the studs in the floor.

You now need to remove the center dash bracket (Fig 2) that has legs on either side of the gearbox tunnel. If you have them, remove the two shaped tunnel knee pads (Fig 2) that are situated in front of this bracket by taking out the Philips screws at the far end, then push the panel forward and it will come free.

The dash bracket is held in place by four 7/16" bolts on the floor and two 1/2" nuts and bolts under the dash rail. If a radio is fitted, we suggest you remove this completely, as this will allow you to remove this bracket from the car. If necessary put tape on the wires and mark accordingly.

You can now remove the bracket which will give you access to the gear shift boot and rubbers underneath (Fig. 3) The handbrake carpet and the two front tunnel pieces can now be removed.

At the very front of the tunnel there is a piece of bulkhead carpet which also needs to be taken out (Fig. 4)

You can now remove the two sill carpets (Fig. 5) Note how they are adhered to the body and also see how the sewn-on flaps are turned over the sill lips. The front scuttle panels are held in place by Phillips screws and can also be removed.

Place the front bulkhead carpet in position and cut/slit where the accelerator rod and speedo cable pass through it (Fig. 6)

When satisfied apply adhesive to both the back of the carpet and the bulkhead. Allow to dry slightly, then stick into position.

Fit the two pieces of underfelt to the tunnel (Fig. 7) and then place the two carpet pieces over the tunnel to give you an idea how they will sit when finally fitted.

Insert the rubber boots in the tunnel before finally fitting these carpets (Fig.8)

You now must replace the dash support bracket carefully (Fig. 9), cutting holes in the carpet where necessary to allow for the four floor bolts.

Finish off this operation by replacing the necessary bolts to secure the bracket and then replace the radio (if installed). The radio speaker panels or knee pads can now be fitted by slotting the front bracket into the dash support bracket and then fixing the front with screws and cup washer.

TRIM PANEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

The rear quarter panels and rear cockpit panel are held in place with a variety of Phillips screws. (Fig. 10)

Remove these panels as well as the piece of material that runs down the 'B' post (Fig. 11) so that the paint between the rear quarter panel and the door trim is covered.

Next, the bracket at the base of this post needs to be covered with the shaped panel and corresponding material. (Fig. 12) Note the positioning of the material on the board.

Bend the top of the board so that it will sit on top of the bracket, while the extra material as can be seen (Fig. 13) is adhered to the outside of the metal bracket and returns to cover the lip where the door trim fits.

You are now in a position to fit the sill carpets and front scuttle panels. The long vinyl flap will eventually be adhered over the sill lip (Fig. 13) and will be covered by the door trim. Apply adhesive to the rear of the carpet and to the metal sill, allow to go tacky, position and press firmly into place.

The scuttle panel can be fitted now. We suggest you lay the old panel over the new panel so you can transcribe holes for screw attachment (Fig. 14).

This will make the panel easier to fit and you can utilize the old holes in the bodywork (Fig. 15). The door trim can now be refitted to your car.

The last two pieces of carpet can now be removed. These are the two fitted over the rear axle area and are probably felt backed (Fig. 16).

WHEEL ARCH COVERS AND REAR PANEL INSTALLATION

In the packet with the wheel arch covers there are pieces of foam-backed nylon, which are glued onto the metal arches to soften any undulations in the metal (Fig. 17)

Apply adhesive to the back of foams and the metal, allow to dry slightly, then by hand trimming create a nice round shape to the wheel arches. (Fig.18)

The vinyl covers are only held to the bodywork by applying glue to their outer edges.

Start at the top of the arch by laying the piping just inside of the vertical bracket. (Fig. 19) Apply adhesive to both surfaces, allowing it to dry slightly, and stick down. Allow to dry thoroughly as you will need to pull the cover down to create tension and not get wrinkles.

The important part about this operation is to keep the inside flange of the piping turned one way or the other to allow enough room for the seat belt bolts and to keep the piping going in as straight a line from top to bottom as possible. Apply glue to the outer edge of the bottom are of the vinyl, allow to dry, then pull on the piping, tensioning the material and stick to the floor area. Allow to dry, then pull and push the outer edges to release any wrinkles. When you can see what the end result will look like, apply adhesive to the outer edges of the vinyl and corresponding bodywork and then glue into place. You will have to cut and trim in one or two areas, but this will become apparent when fitting.

The rear quarter panels and rear cockpit panel can now be fitted. Do the same as you did with the scuttle panels and lay the old panels over the new to transcribe the holes. (Fig. 20)

Fit the special panel clips into the quarter panels, align and press into place, having previously accounted for the hole required for the seat belt bolt. (Fig. 21) Make sure the top of the panel is level with the bodywork, then fit the remaining screws and cup washers, and finally the cap that finishes off the door trim end.

The next step is to fit the new carpet pieces over the rear axle box section.

Lay down the underfelt and trim where necessary (Fig. 22) and glue to the bodywork.

Apply the small oval piece over the axle bump making sure the larger piece that fits over it covers any raw edges. (Fig. 23) Then glue the larger piece in centrally, making sure that it sits up against the brackets by the fuel tank area properly.

DOOR PANEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

The door handles are held in place by small spigots found between the flange of the handle and the door panel. These can be pushed out using a thin small screwdriver or a strong piece of wire.

The panels are held onto the door by panel clips. Push a flat ended screwdriver behind the panel to release the clips. (Fig. 25) Note how the clips are fitted and positioned in your old panel then insert the new ones into your new panel.

Do not cut any holes for the handles at this stage. Proceed to clip the new panel onto the door, adjusting the clips where necessary. On early models with a chromed door handle, you will see the square spigot pushing into the vinyl material.

Cut across here with a sharp knife (Fig. 26) and the spigot will come through the material. Proceed by putting back the necessary hardware.

The seat belts can now be refitted. The carpet with the handbrake boot can also be fitted at this time, making sure carpet sits down well. (Fig.27)

We suggest that you apply glue to the edges that will lie on the floor, so that when you use the handbrake, the carpet piece does not move around.

Lay out the underfelt pieces on the floor and trim where necessary. (Fig. 28) The rear floor carpets are not fixed in, but held down by the seat frames, so all you have to do with these is cut small holes for the insertion of the seat bolts.

The front footwell carpets are held in place by special carpet clips supplied with the kit. If you have the old studs in the floor to hold these clips use them, if not there are some new ones in the kit.

With the carpet in the correct position, mark with a piece of chalk on the carpet the center of the stud below it.

Now push the pronged piece centrally through the carpet, (Fig. 29) turn it over and place the flange onto the spikes (Fig.30) that are sticking through, then turn these spikes over to secure both pieces together.

You will need at least four clips per footwell. (Fig. 31)

The seat frames can now be reinstalled, and the installation is complete..