Try to imagine that you are traveling on a ship from Greece to the Eastern Mediterranean. Your first intermediate stop will be either at the Isle of Crete or the Isle of Rhodes. The next obligatory one will be at Limassol in Cyprus , from where, usually at night, your ship will take the south-east direction. At sunrise, a fascinating silhouette will appear before you – the northern end of Mount Carmel, on whose steep slopes, facing the sea, is situated Haifa – the city of five religions (Jews, Christians, Muslims, Druze and Baha'i ); the largest port of Israel; third in population with its nearly 300 thousand inhabitants.

But before arriving in this beautiful, awe inspiring city, if you are fond of Mother Nature, be sure not to miss the silhouettes of the coasts of Lebanon and of Galilee – the garden of Israel, with its highest point – Mount Hermon, rising up some thirty miles inland, in the northern part of the Golan Heights. This mount is also the only place within the current boundaries of Israel with snow remaining in the winter, and therefore suitable for skiing ... Of course, you will be delighted of all this only in case of clear weather –early, early in the morning, before dawn, when the dark sky is gradually changing from violet and dark blue to lighter blue, yellow, orange and finally red– just before the disk of the sun appears above the horizon, when you perhaps are leaning against the ship's rail, and listening to the cries of the sea gulls – the 'heralds' that tell you the cost is already near ...

You are entering the port ... When it was under construction, during the British mandate (in the 1930s), as a terminal for the railroads from Transjordan and Damascus, the port was the second largest in capacity in the Mediterranean, surpassed only by the port of Marseilles in France.

Now ... Haifa is in front of you and, if there is a low sea mist, part of the city may be hidden from view, but you will see, as if 'in the heavens', the tower of the University of Haifa, situated on the top of Mount Carmel. This tower can be seen from tens of miles out at sea, as well as from Galilee or from the south, when driving on the coastal highway from Tel Aviv ... Clear weather permitting, the first thing to attract your attention will be the Baha'i Shrine – made of beautiful white stone ... with golden dome on top, and surrounded by beautiful gardens known as the Persian Gardens or Baha'i Gardens. All this will be found on the slope of the hill, along the continuation of the axis of Ben Gourion Avenue (named after the founder of the modern state of Israel) in Moshavá Germanit (the 'German Village'). This neighborhood, still retaining a little of its past atmosphere, was originally a settlement founded in 1868 by members (or followers) of the 'Templar' order from Germany. In 1870 the first German Jews began to settle here too.

The view of Haifa is not only beautiful from the sea! My teenage sons and I (the author) have had the opportunity to enjoy it from above, whilst in a small plane flown by one of my sons (!?!) ... Well! ... In fact, what he did was only for a minute and under control of the pilot, when the plane was not turning, neither ascending, nor descending ... but, still, I was happy to see one of my sons touching a bit of my dreams, and the other one strengthening his desire to achieve a similar (or maybe much bigger) goal.

...

In order to keep you from the notion that everything in Haifa is O.K., you should be prepared for one unpleasant surprise! Haifa is one of the cities in Israel that suffer from the 'achievements' of modern chemistry! If you're unlucky, the pleasure of arriving by ship may be compromised by the odour and fog of chemical substances carried by the morning offshore winds. You may also, at times, have the same experience if you find yourself in the Qraiot (the Suburbs) in the Haifa Bay, down in Emeq Izrael (the 'Jezreel Valley').

However, Haifa is not only center of 'dirty' industries. Near the south entrance to the city (when coming from Tel Aviv) you will find an area of 'clean' Hi-Tech industries. It is not a secret that, with regard to electronics expertise, Israel is already among the leading nations in the world. Together with the Israeli companies, here you can find divisions of the American giants Microsoft and Intel.

Remains of Phoenician settlements have been found, as well as Jewish ones from the Second Temple era: Shiqmona (Sycaminum) – at the south entrance to the modem city; and Hefa – about a mile to the east. Today the city is situated on three different levels: Yir-Tahtit, the 'Lower City' – at sea level; Hadar – on the mid-level; and Carmel – on the summit of the hill.

Down are, of course, the representations of trade and shipping agencies, as well as workshops and street traders. This part of the city incorporates the quarters of the Christian Arabs and the Muslim Arabs – from the years of the Ottoman Empire, and Jewish quarters from more recent times. Here also is the natural location of the Jewish-Arab Cultural Centre.

Hadar came to existence predominantly as a Jewish quarter when this population rapidly increased at the turn of the century. Here you can find many offices, a variety of small shops and big stores, a large street market, and many of the metropolitan institutions. The theatre and the philharmonic orchestra are also here. Opposite of them is a garden where in the early evening hours, when the air is fresh, predominantly Russian-speaking Jews come to play Chess and Shashki (a 'dama' game played on a Chess board).

Carmel is the area of hotels and many kinds of entertainment, of beautiful parks and residential quarters. Here is the large Auditorium Hall and, alongside, the Cinematheque. If you continue further along the branches of the ridge, you will find two very interesting buildings: the new Kababir mosque belonging to the Ahmadiya sect; and the 'Carmel' hospital, which are easily distinguished when looking from below – from the seafront on the western side of the city.

The multiple religions diversify the city ... In case you are here during Christmas, when passing through Wadi Nisnas - the quarter of the Christian Arabs (by bus, by car, or simply walking), from streets with normal illumination you will find yourself in a fairy ambience created by the Christmas lights – among the houses, between the lamp posts and in the shop windows. You will sense the joy being brought by the brilliant Christmas trees, and by the Santa Clauses that distribute gifts among the children, using modern cars to move around in the absence of snow for their 'sledges' ...­

Who are the Baha'is? – They represent a universal religion founded in Iran. For them Jehovah, Allah and Aura Mazda (of the Zoroastrians) are all the same God, who periodically reveals himself to mankind by way of his prophets – Moses, Zarathustra, Jesus Christ, Muhammad. The last in this chain, Baha'ullah, who lived during the mid-decades of the [nineteenth] century, is the founder of this religion ... The temple with its gardens, mentioned earlier above, are fine expressions of the eternity and harmony which this religion proclaims.

The Jewish faces are full of joy during Sukkoth, Pesach ('Passover'), Rosh-ha-Shanah, and most of all in Purim. During the week of Sukkoth, in the yards of the houses and near the multi­storey residential buildings, appear multiple huts roofed with branches. 'Sukkah' in Hebrew means hut, hence the name of these holidays. In these improvised 'homes', in an emotional atmosphere enhanced by the pleasantly fresh evening air, whole families gather for dinner, as they would have done many, many years ago in ancient times. In Purim, full of so much joy, all the schools organize carnivals! Teachers and pupils disguise themselves as characters of their choice. In addition, in the afternoon the municipality organizes a magnificent parade on Herzl Street – one of the two principal streets in the mid-level Hadar. Yom-Kippur (the 'Day of Repentance and Atonement'), contrary to what one would expect, becomes paradise day for those who have bicycles and roller blades. The streets, with their multiple curves and slopes, and being quiet and empty of traffic, attract the thrill-seekers among the children.

Students in Israel wanting to study technical sciences would choose, first of all, the Technion ­– with teaching levels and scientific results well renowned around the world. Situated in its own 'Technion City' near the beautiful borough of Newe Shaanan, its campus includes: the institute's studying and administrative buildings; its own central library with branches in all the faculties that are linked by a computerized information network; a post office; a bank; dormitories; and a sports complex with tennis courts, sports halls and swimming pools. All this is well integrated in the green environment of the Carmel forest, below the University of Haifa, mentioned earlier on.

In Hadar, in the building where the Technion first began its existence in 1924 (it was founded in 1912), you can find a wonderful technical museum. The list of museums in the city can be continued with many others: like the Museum of Japanese Art; the Prehistoric & Archaeological Museum – with rare samples from biblical times; and the Zoological & Botanical Garden with museum. The Museum of the Clandestine Immigration (during the British Mandate), is situated near the entrance to the Bat Galim ('Daughter of the Waves') borough, under the cableway that unites the seashore will Stella Maris, high above the sea.

From this point at the north end of Mount Carmel a magnificent view of the crescent of Haifa Bay opens before your eyes. The crescent starts from the meeting point of Carmel and the sea, and ends to the north with the Old City of Acco (Acre). With good luck for clear weather one can see as far north as the city of Naharia and the cliffs of Rosh-ha-Niqra – at the Israeli-Lebanese border. For those who are here with limited time, there is an open rooftop observatory on the upper station of the cableway. Those with more time available can enjoy the view during the day or in the evening from the restaurant beneath the station. Here you can also visit the Monastery of the Carmelite catholic order. A short walk down the steep slope will take you to the Cave of Eliahu-ha­Navi ('the Prophet Elijah') at the foot of the mountain.

You will also enjoy the beautiful panorama if you walk along Yafe-Nof ('Nice View') street, or from the Baha'i Gardens situated below it, or from the hotels on the ridge above. The same view can be experienced from Newe Shaanan, or  from the Garden of Independence in Hadar – in front of the City Council ... It is estimated that about 30 percent of the homes in Haifa have a sea view.

Haifa is the only large city in Israel to make public transport available on Shabat (Saturday); the other large cities observe more strictly the Jewish religious ordinances. In addition, Haifa has the first and only subway in Israel, which climbs up and runs down, linking the three levels of the city. There are plans for other similar connections which would save commuters time spent now on the bus routes along the swinging up and down streets.

Great discussion has ensued as a result of the Mayor's idea for construction of a marina. It would need to include hotels, restaurants, residential buildings and, of course, jetties for yachts. All this – under Stella Maris (of Mount Carmel) on land reclaimed from the sea ... The environmentalists predict that all the flora and fauna in the region will be destroyed. The journalists ask themselves: Is it worth to have this 'White Elephant' endanger the beauty of the city, only because of several people with a bit more money? ... There are other places suitable for yacht facilities, while they (the people with the money) even now enjoy their nice houses with fascinating panoramas, dispersed around the numerous hills of this so charming city of Haifa! ...

Good Journey!

Mario Behar, May 1996