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There are two hardwood rals that need to be mounted in the forward section on the basic fuse lite-ply crutch. There is also an aft servo tray for the rudder and elevator servos. The instructions are not very clear on where thaes need to go. Thogh the pic of mine isn't that great hopefully it helps illustrate these items. I CA'd the aft tray first to the py crutch peices then applied 6 minute epoxy. |
Another area that wasn't very clear is the foward receiver/battery/throttle servo mounting plate. This plate needs to be trimmed to fit between the fuse crutch. Why Great Planes didn't do this already is a mystery. Their instructions tell you to do it but there are no illustrative pictures. This section of the manual could have been done much better. |
Later on in the instructions GP goes over how to mount their switch/charge jack assembly through the fuse side. I personally don't like that method so I opted to mount it to the floor of the forward cockpit. This floor is made of 1/16" balsa and is a bit springy. I was afraid repeated on/off cycles of the push/pull switch and insertion of the charge jack would cause weakness and eventual breakage of the wood so I reienforced the floor with two longeron members made from the trimmed portions of the forward Rx/Batt tray. The switch will then be hidden when this plate is mounted. This whole process also necessitated the installation of the engine to determine the throttle pushrod routing. I used the supplied 2-56 threaded rod and ended up with a straight run to the throttle arm on the carb. I had to make some slight bends in the wire to route it to the EZ connector on the servo arm but it's a linear run giving smooth travel. |
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The hole for the threaded rudder control horn rod is already drilled in the rudder post. You need to locate it thru the covering. I lightly probed with an X-Acto blade tip until I found it. After locating the hole I tapped it with a 6-32 tap and hardened the threads with CA. |
The control cable hrons that go on this rod need to be drilled out and tapped as well. If you try to screw them on without doing this they will never go on. The plasic fairings were used to mark the covering where it needed to be cut for attaching them. |
The rudder fairings need to be trimmed to accomodate the rudder control horns. The fairing is then positioned and thin CA is 'wicked' in to attach it to the rudder itself. |
Trial fit of the rudder revealed some interference with the control horns and the cable exit holes in the aft bulkhead. I used a dremel and a sanding drum to elongate the holes and provide enough clearance for the rudder horns. The rudder has more than adequate travel now with no evidence of binding. |
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I replaced the kits furnished 4-40 threaded rods used for the elevator pushrods. In a word:they suck! They bind in the installed guide tubes and no amount of cleaning or tweaking could make them move freely. Instead I used .078" music wires and threaded couplers soldered on. They work much better now. You need two servos for the elevator halves. Since they are mirrored you either need an line servo reverser or a radio with electronic mixing. Great Planes is not very clear on this in their description of the kit. I also replaced the kit's control horns with Robart ones. These provide much smoother operation plus allow for the 'off' angle the pushrods are attached at. |