Chapter VIII - South Once Again
October 29, 2004 - Norfolk, VA
After spending the summer in Annapolis I decided that I would be heading south again this fall. This was not an easy decision however. I had been trying to find a job in the area in my former field, Information Technology. I found out that the majority of these positions required an active security clearance, which I did not posses. Still I had a few replies to my resume and had an interview with a local Annapolis company which didn't pan out.
I had considered staying in Annapolis for the winter to continue looking for work. I even reserved a slip at the City Dock in downtown Annapolis, but after researching temperatures for the winter months and discovering that the average low for January is 23 degrees, I decide that I would rather be warm and looking for work than cold and looking for work. So I made the decision to head south.
I hauled my boat at the Port Annapolis Marina again and stripped off several layers off old bottom paint using Peel Away which I got from Home Depot. It took about 12 gallons of the stuff at $20 per gallon, but it beat sanding the paint off. I also had my fuel injectors serviced, and then applied two coats of fresh bottom paint.
While I was working on the boat I met John who owned a Columbia 29 which was also named Tyche. John was interested in accompanying me on the trip south this year. I thought that it would be fun to have John along, but knew it would be difficult to manage the trip using my dinghy which had a maximum weight capacity of 360 pounds. With John and I in the dinghy and with and outboard engine, which would be necessary because it would be very difficult to row in certain conditions with two adults aboard, we would have reached the maximum capacity for the dinghy. We decided that John would join me for the trip from Annapolis to Solomons Island, where John would stay in the Holiday Inn for the night and get a ride back in the morning.
We left Annapolis on the 27th and headed down the bay towards Solomons Island. It was a mild day without much wind and we motored the whole way. During the the trip we decided that John would stay on until to Deltaville, VA which was the next stop, but when we arrived in Solomons the sun was starting to go down and it was getting a little chilly. John didn't bring a sleeping bag and decided to stay in the hotel instead. I dropped John off at the Spring Cove Marina where he would be taking a room at the Holiday Inn next door. I motored over to Mill Creek to anchor since it was already crowded at the popular anchorages Back Creek.
The next morning I left Solomons at sunrise and head down to Deltaville, VA. The trip was pleasant and I was able to motor-sail most of the way. I arrived at the anchorage on Jackson Creek and anchored across from the Deltaville Marina. I rowed to shore then took the bike over to the grocery then to Taylor's Restaurant where I had a really delicious cheeseburger and fries, the best I had in a long time. As I rode my bike down the main road, a couple of the local dogs chased me again and I had to sprint to loose them. The next morning I pulled up my anchor and motored over to the fuel dock and bought 11.34 gallons of diesel at $2.19 per gallon. I thought that was a little high and I'm hoping that I'll see better prices along the ICW.
I got underway at about 8:30 and motored on to Norfolk. The wind was from the south at around 5 knots and right on the nose so I kept my sails furled. When I arrived in Norfolk, I decided to try the anchorage in Willoughby Bay since the anchorage across Naval Hospital would probably be crowded. As I entered the channel into the anchorage I touched bottom then went aground just passed the first set of markers. Apparently the entrance channel had shoaled over. I got off the returned the way I came and head toward the anchorage at Mill Creek on the other side of the Hampton Roads channel.
As I was crossing the channel I saw another sail boat entering the channel to Willoughby Bay where I has just run aground. I hailed him on the VHF to let him know that I had gone aground there. He replied and I told him that what had just happened to me. He continued down the channel anyway. A few minutes later I watched him go aground in the same spot I had. He unfurled his genoa the raised his main in an attempt to get free. I had motored off. I entered Mill Creek and anchored in about 9 feet near the bridge tunnel. About 20 minute later I saw the same sailboat that had gone aground come into the anchorage and anchor nearby.
October 31,2004 - Broad Creek, NC
I left the Mill Creek anchorage just after sunrise. There was a light fog and a chill in the air, and I had only a 1/2 mile visibility. I turned on my navigation and masthead lights and made my way towards the Hampton Roads channel watching for large ships. As I approached the channel I saw a US Navy destroyer approaching, so I throttled back and let it pass with plenty of room. After it passed I crossed the channel to the green side and ran just outside the channel close to the green buoys. I followed the channel as it turned south and saw the destroyer turning to port as two tugboats steered it into a slip. Behind me I saw another Navy warship approaching so I crossed the channel to the red side so I would be out of the way as it approached the docks.
I continued just outside the main channel on the red side and passed downtown Norfolk to port and Portsmouth to starboard. I was now on the ICW at mile 0. My destination today would be Great Bridge, VA. The fog had finally dissipated and it began to warm up quickly. I had started the day with a fleece pullover and a light jacket under my foul weather jacket. I began stripped off layers as the temperature rose to 78 degrees. As I pulled up to the Great Bridge dock I was down to a t-shirt and jeans.
After I tied up to the dock a Bayfield 32 pulled in behind me. I helped secure it's lines and then chatted with Mark the owner for a while. Mark is from Kennebunkport, Maine and is heading south to Florida and maybe the Bahamas. After taking with Mark, I grabbed my empty propane tank and walked to the Citgo station down the road to get it filled. It came to $5.34 to fill the tank which should last me about two months.
After filling the tank and bringing it back to the boat I walked over to Moe's South Western Grill for lunch and then over to the Farm Fresh grocery to pick up a few things. On the way back I noticed that the Dairy Queen had a sign in the window advertising it's free Wi-Fi zone, so I went in to check it out. The girl behind the counter said the Wi-Fi was working but I couldn't find an outlet to plug my laptop into (my battery is shot and will no longer hold a charge), so I got my bike out of the cockpit locker and rode over to the library to use one of their computers for Internet access. The computers at the library were using non-standard browser and I could not get to to my website to update my page. I could get my email though. The librarian said that they had been having trouble getting to some Yahoo pages. I rode back to the boat and listened to A Prairie Home Companion and called it a day.
The next morning I left just after sunrise and got through the first bridge at 7:00 am. Mark was just behind me as we left the dock, but pulled over to the Great Bridge Marina fuel dock just passed the bridge. Mark had said the he was heading to the same anchorage as I was at Broad Creek in North Carolina.
As I got closer to Currituck Sound the wind started to build. As I entered the sound it was blowing 10-15 knots, then freshened to 15-20 with gusts up to 30 knots out of the west. The channel through the sound was narrow with shallow water on both sides so I elected not to sail. I noticed that there was one sailboat behind me at a distance with his genoa out. I saw him heel over dramatically as some of the stronger gusts hit. Later I saw the boat at pull into the Coinjock Marina where I had stopped for fuel. The boat was an O'Day 30 from Sag Harbor, NY. They had a crew of three which made it easier to sail. Me being alone had enough to do keeping my boat in the channel with out worrying about trimming sails.
At around 3:00 pm I pulled into the Broad Creek anchorage and motored over to the western shore near the entrance to the creek itself. I've always had anchored just out side the entrance to the creek which seems to be a little narrow and shoaled in spots. The wind died down after I anchored and it became quiet and peaceful. I hadn't eaten lunch so I started and early dinner. About an hour later Mark pulled into the anchorage and anchored nearby just as I had finished cooking a pot of rice and beans. I always have more that I need when I cook this, so I invited Mark over for dinner. Mark brought some beer and we ate in the cockpit since it was such a warm day. Right after we finished eating the mosquitoes arrived so we went below and had a beer or two. Mark went back to his boat and I swatted the mosquitoes that had gotten below. I killed at least ten of them. Tomorrow the wind should be light and out of the north which will make for a easy trip across Albemarle Sound which is the largest body of water on the waterway.
November 2, 2004 - Belhaven, NC
We left the Broad Creek anchorage at sunrise and headed into the Albemarle Sound. Mark motor-sailing under full sail. mark has a small engine in his boat and can only do 5 knots in the best of conditions, so he uses his sails to give him a little more speed. I had just my genoa out. With my freshly painted bottom, clean prop, and recently serviced fuel injectors, my boat was moving at top speed.
The winds were on the beam at around 5-10 knots which made for a pleasant passage across the sound. After crossing the sound we entered the Alligator River and continued south pass the swing bridge by the same name towards the anchorage on the SW bank where the river turns east. As we approached I realized that we were going to arrive very early (me at around 12:30, mark a little later) so I called Mark an told him that I was going to continue on through the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal to an anchorage just off the Pungo River at mile 127. Mark said that he was going to try to make it there as well.
I entered the canal and continued south at a good speed. This canal is man-made and straight as an arrow with just a few bends. It is also lined with trees and tree stumps along it's bank. About 5 miles down the canal I saw a tug approaching. The tug was pushing a barge. The tug and barge were dead center in the channel and not leaving much room on either side. The two boats ahead of me squeezed by with little room to spare, but as I approached the channel suddenly narrowed and I found myself with little room to pass, so I moved a little closer to the bank to give me a safe passing distance. The water depth decreased form 12 ft. to about 8 ft. which still gave me enough depth. What I wasn't expecting was the rotted tree stump 4 ft. under the surface. Since I draw 4' 5" I suddenly found my boat sitting on top of the stump. The boat had ridden right up onto the stump and was balancing on the keel. Luckily I stopped before my keel rode over the stump because my prop would then landed on the it.
As the tug and barge passed by the captain waved. I felt like showing him a certain finger, but he actually had the right of way and there was not much room for him to maneuver in the canal anyway. The first thing I did after I calmed down was to row my 22 pound Delta anchor out to the middle of the canal to try to kedge off the stump. I used the port side sheet winch to try and pull my boat off the stump, but all I able to do was heel it over. It wasn't moving an inch.
Two boats passed and offered to try and tow me off, and I gratefully accepted. Neither of the boats was able to move me off of the stump. At this point I called TowBoat US. I continued trying to kedge off as I waited for TowBoat US to arrive and decided to try a different approach. I cranked the anchor line in as far in as I could and waited for a large power boat to approach. When one did I called him on the VHF and asked him not to slow down as he passed. I wanted him to wake me. He did as I asked and sent a 3 foot wake at me. The wake lifted my boat up off the stump and the pull on the anchor line pulled me out and back. I was finally afloat!
I pulled in my anchor and brought it up on deck and was underway again. I was about to all TowBoat US to cancel my call for a tow when I saw him approaching up ahead. I told him that I had gotten free and didn't need his assistance. He said that he wanted me to stop and sign a form for him so that he could get paid by TowBoat US.. I said that I didn't want to stop because I needed to get out off the canal before it got dark. I told him that I would stop by his office in the morning and sign the form for him. He called his office which was at the River Forest Marina in Belhaven and explained the situation. His office told him to follow me to the anchorage and have me sign the form when we arrive. I agreed and he followed me for 15 miles to my anchorage on the Pungo River. We arrived about an hour after sunset and I had to use a search light to identify several of the unlit markers along the way.
After I anchored I put a couple fenders out for the TowBoat US guy to come alongside so that I could sign the form for him. After he made several attempts to come alongside my boat, I told him that I would row out to him. I signed the form for him, noting on it the I had freed my boat myself and was underway again before he arrived on scene. I had 'Unlimited Towing' insurance with TowBoat US so I wouldn't be charged for his time.
The next morning after the fog had lifted I saw that Mark ad made it to the anchorage and was anchored a few hundred yards in front of me. He called on the VHF and asked where I was headed for the day. I told him that I was going to stop at Belhaven for the day to get some groceries and use the Internet access at the library. He said that he was going to do the same because didn't think that he would make it to Oriental because of the late start he would be getting because of the fog. So at around 9:00 am we both lifted anchor and headed to Pantego Creek in Belhaven. We arrived a around 11:00 and anchored near the bridge.
November 6,2004 - Beaufort, NC
At Belhaven Mark to his dinghy ashore to make a few phone calls, I went in with my bike and rode over to the Food Lion grocery, stopped at the library, and made some phone calls as well. In the afternoon we got into our dinghies to do some fishing for spotted trout which a local said was running in the creek. I lent mark one of my jigs and we tried different spots around the creek without any luck.
The next day's forecast was for rain and thunderstorms, so we both decided to to hang around Belhaven for the day. In the morning we went into town for breakfast and stopped at the hardware store and then went back to the boats and tried fishing again in the afternoon.
The heavy rain and thunderstorms that were forecast to proceed the approaching cold front never materialized. We had a few light showers, but that was it. We left the next morning just after sunrise. The forecast was for 20-25 knots and gusty, but it was only blowing 10 knots as we left the anchorage at Belhaven. As we left the Pungo River and turned down the Neuse River we felt the the full force of the wind. It was still only 20 knots from my starboard quarter so I motor-sail with a slightly furled genoa. Mark who has only a 15 hp engine on his Bayfield 32 was running under full sail again, but he was still about two miles behind when I reached the anchorage on the South River.After anchoring near what Skipper Bob's guide called "the cemetery of the abandoned town of Luckens, I got in my dinghy and rowed to shore to check it out. The cemetery was actually abandoned. There were some new tombstones on the grounds and there was no town that I could see, just a dirt heading off somewhere. I wanted to walk down the road and find the so called abandoned town, but there were No Trespassing signs post all around, so I decided to head back to the boat before anyone saw me.
The next morning we left the South River at around 7:30 and head to Beaufort, NC. It was a short trip, only 24 miles, and we arrived just after noon. I was more crowded that I had expected, but I was able to pick up one of the last moorings in the harbor. The mooring was huge and had a 1" pendant attached. I don't know if the owner would be returning but with a pendant that large, whatever kind of boat moored there probably wasn't going to fit with all the other boats anchored nearby.
Mark stopped by in his dinghy and we went into town and stopped at the maritime museum to reserve a car for tomorrow. Mark hadn't eaten yet so he stopped for a burger and I went on to the library.
November 9,2004 - Wrightsville Beach, NC
At about 4:00 pm after just about everyone had anchored for the night the Coast Guard came by and told all of the boats that had anchored in the channel at Beaufort that they would have to move. I was on a mooring just on the edge of the channel, so I was OK, however Mark and about six other boats had to find another spot to anchor. They all squeezed in wherever they could find room, but thankfully no one anchor to close to me.
The next morning I rowed in to get breakfast at Taylor's Cafe. Don on the Southern Cross 31 who I had met yesterday came in, so we sat, had breakfast and talked for a while. Don use to have a marine business in St James City, FL, which is in the area that I cruising two winters ago. He told me that he had contracted work with the City of Fort Myers Beach remove some of the sunken wrecks in the Matanzas Pass anchorage. I saw an abandoned boat sink during the three weeks I was anchored there.
At 1:00 pm we walked over the museum to pick up the car. Don came along and while we were waiting for the keys. I saw Sy who I had met last fall in St Augustine. He was waiting to sign up for a car and asked if he could ride with us. So all four of us pilled into the Chevy van they gave us and headed of to the Wal-Mart in Morehead City. We all loaded up on groceries and whatever else we each needed and then drove back to Beaufort and dropped off the car at the museum. After dropping off everything at our boats, Don and I went back in to do some laundry.
The next morning Mark and I left Beaufort and headed south towards the anchorage at Mile Hammock Bay in Camp LeJeune. Don and Sy were planning to go offshore and wanted to wait for a better weather window, so as far as I know, they sat in Beaufort for at least another day. The forecast for was for 20-25 knot winds from the NW, but we were heading down the Bogue Sound which isn't that wide so we wouldn't see much chop.
I motor-sailed for a while, but with the wind gusting to 30 knots at times, I found myself being blown close to the edge of the channel if I didn't keep a constant watch on my course. The channel is surrounded with shoals just a feet out on either side. So I rolled in the genoa and just motored through. We arrived at Mile Hammock Bay at around 2:30 and anchored with about 10 other boats. I was due for some boat maintenance so while the engine was still warm, I changed the engine oil and filter, and both fuel filters.
The next morning we headed out towards Wrightsville Beach. It had gotten cold during the night but I dressed warmly for the day's trip. There was a brisk wind blowing from the North which allowed us to motor-sail the whole way. When we arrived at the first bridge we had a pack of about 12 sailboats waiting for the bridge to open. It seemed that I had timed the bridge right and got through with only a few minutes wait. The next bridge opened on the hour and half-hour so timing that one wasn't a problem, but the third and last bridge opened only on the hour, so if you timed that one wrong you could possibly have to circle around for an hour waiting for the next opening. Myself and two other sailboats moved out in front of the pack and were able to make the last bridge just as it started to open. The other 9 sailboats behind us weren't so lucky and had to wait at the bridge for almost an hour for the 2:00 opening.
I found a spot up front and anchored near the dinghy dock so that I wouldn't have far to row against the wind and current. The rest of the pack arrived about and hour latter and settled in around the anchorage. Later Mark stopped by and we took his dinghy in and stopped at the grocery from a few things then headed back to our boats.
November 13, 2004 - Myrtle Beach, SC
In the morning we head south from Wrightsville Beach to a small anchorage called Pipeline Canal in Southport. I also needed to pick up my mail waiting for me at the local post office. We arrive all the anchorage at around 2:00 and rode into town on our bikes. Mark stopped at al Pizza Hut for lunch and I continued on another couple of miles to the post office. I got back to the boat at around 3:00 and saw that no other boats had arrived and began to think that we might have the small anchorage to ourselves when 5 other boats suddenly pulled in. It was a group of Canadian sailboats that we had seen at every anchorage we stopped at in the last week or so. They some how managed to squeeze in with out crowding us and the owner of the largest boat, a C&C 38 called Raft, rowed over and invited us over for drinks at around 5:00. We accepted and at 5:00 met the group which consisted of two boats from Midland, Canada, two boats from somewhere else in Canada and a Catalina 36 from New Hampshire which had met them along the way.
They turned out to be a fun group and we had a very good time. Someone pulled out a book called Muskrat, which was a very funny story about some skipjack sailors from the eastern shore of Maryland who try to enter the Americas Cup. They read several passages from the book, which they do every night when they meet for drinks. I laughed so hard at times that I had tears in my eyes. I've got to find a copy of this book.
Thy next morning the Canadian group left at sunrise. They said that they were going to try to make Barefoot Landing in Myrtle Beach, SC. Mark and I left about an hour later and decided that we would probably stop at Calabash Creek on the border of North Carolina and South Carolina and try for Barefoot Landing in the morning when we would have a better chance of finding a spot at the very popular free dock.
We anchored at Calabash Creek, loaded our fuel cans into Mark's dinghy and motored up the creek to the town of Calabash in search of fuel. Skipper Bob's had said that the Calabash Marine had cheap fuel prices in 2003, but when we got there we discovered that the marina had gone out of business. We stopped for pizza and then walked a few blocks into town. Later on Mark invited me over for real tasty steak dinner.
In the morning Mark, who had been having trouble with his starter, said that it was making a grinding noise when he started it this morning. He wanted to get over to Barefoot landing where he could tie the boat up at the dock and try to troubleshoot the problem. The forecast was for rain all day and I started out about a half hour behind him after studying the gray skies. I put on my foul weather gear pulled up the anchor and headed towards Barefoot Landing. After about 15 minutes it started to rain. After about an hour I felt my back getting wet. It seemed that my West Marine foul weather jacket, which was advertised in the catalog as water-proof, suddenly was not. After about three miles I decided to turn back and spend the day at the the anchorage I had just left. If I didn't find a spot at Barefoot Landing, I would have to continue on in the rain another 30 miles to the next anchorage with a leaking foul-weather jacket. On the way back the rain let up for a while and I stopped for fuel at Cricket Cove Marina. I anchored in the same spot as before and spent the day reading. It rained all day long.
The next morning I left at around 7:30 for Barefoot Landing. I arrived at around 9:30 and found a spot at the south end of the dock. Mark was still here and I walked over to his boat. There was a group of cruisers who were going to take the shuttle bus over to the Wal-Mart and the West Marine so I joined them. After we got back I walked around the mall and stopped in a few stores and bought a baseball cap. Later on, Mark and I stopped at Damon's restaurant in the mall for dinner then headed back to our boats. I caught the last hour of a Prairie Home Companion and got to bead early.
November 17, 2004 - Charleston, SC
We left Barefoot Landing around 8:00 a.m. Our nest stop would be Bull Creek off of the Waccamaw River. We arrived at around 1:30 p.m. and anchored around the second bend. It's a beautiful anchorage and I was able to spent a few days here last spring. Tom and Patty on Swan, who I was traveling with at the time, stayed at the Bucksport Marina a few miles up the river.
We took Mark's dinghy ashore and walked the nature trail on Sandy Island for a couple of hours then headed back to our boats. We saw a lot of animal tracks but very little wildlife during our hike. It must all come out at night. I did see a few interesting birds however.
In the morning we headed to Minim Creek. We arrived at around 2:00 p.m. and anchored just around the first bend in about 8 feet. Several more boats arrived shortly afterward and by night fall we had about 10 boats in the anchorage. After anchoring I replaced the line for my radar reflector which had chaffed through and fallen out of the pulley up on the spreader. I had to threaded the line through the pulley from down on the deck using a method that I had used before, which consisted of two poles attached together with the line taped to a nylon tie-wrap with a loop threaded through. I won't go into the details (I described the process in Chapter IV), but I was able to thread the line thorough the pulley and reattach my radar reflector.
I the morning we left for Charleston. To arrive there before dark we had to make the Ben Sawyer Bridge, which is seven mile from Charleston, before 4:00 p.m. The bridge does no open during rush hour, which is 4:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. I arrived at the bridge at 2:00 p.m. and called the bridge tender. She said that she would open the bridge for me shortly. Tem minutes later she called to tell me that she was having electrical problems with the bridge and would not be able to open it again until the electricians arrived on scene. I asked how long that would be. She said that she wasn't sure, but that it usually takes the electricians 30 to 45 minutes to arrive after she calls. An hour later she called to say that the electricians hadn't yet arrived. By this time there were several boats gathered around the bridge waiting.
After another half hour with the electricians still not on the scene, Mark and I decided to head back a few miles and anchor for the night because it did not look that they were going the open the bridge anytime soon. Two other boats that were waiting followed behind. as we made out way to the anchorage. I monitored channel 9 in case the bridge tender announced that the bridge would be opening. No such announcement came. So we continued on to the anchorage. At 3:55 I looked back and saw the bridge suddenly open with no word from the bridge tender. By this time we were too far from the bridge to turn around so we just continued on. We anchored in a small creek in Hamlin Sound with four other boats.
In the morning we left the anchorage at around 7:45 to make it back to the bridge for it's first opening after the morning rush hour restriction. We got through with no problems and arrived at the anchorage in Charleston at about 10:00 a.m. The group of Canadian boats we had seen last back at Southport were hear, and I anchored in the same spot as I had last spring, right between the two range markers for the channel in about 12 feet of water. Raft, the C&C 38 was we had drinks on several days ago was about 60 yards away.
November 21, 2004 - Beaufort, SC
Charleston is a great city to visit, so we stayed for a few days. We rode around and toured the city by bike for a while. There are so many beautiful and historic homes scattered throughout the city that you could spend a day just taking them all in. We didn't do that though. Mark went back to the city marina to do laundry and I stopped at the library. Latter that night we stopped in at Salty Mikes to have a few beers and shoot some pool.
The next day we stopped at Norm's for lunch. Norm's serves some very good pizza and is popular with the College of Charleston students. Later that night we went downtown and stopped at Cumberland's for there happy hour. While the Simpson's are on TV starting at 7:00 p.m. they serve 50 cent Duff Drafts. Well, it's not really Duff, but it's a pretty good beer just the same.
Saturday morning we left Charleston and headed south towards Beaufort. The Canadian group also left Saturday, but they went offshore at Charleston for a 30 hour non-stop trip to Jacksonville, FL, skipping Georgia all together. They're used to sailing the Great Lakes where there aren't any tides, and said that they didn't want to deal with the 8 to 9 foot tidal ranges in Georgia. I didn't see why they they wouldn't put up with a tide that was only 2 to 3 feet higher that than Charleston.
The trip to Beaufort was 67 miles from Charleston, so we decided to break it up into two days. We had planned to stop at Tom Point Creek the first night, but that would give us 26 miles the first gay and 41 the next, so we continued on and anchored in the South Edisto River making both days trips more or less equal in length.
We arrived in Beaufort at around 1:00 p.m. and passed through the Ladys Island Bridge to check out the anchorage next to the city marina since it did not appear crowded. We scouted the anchorage and found it too deep which would have required a lot of scope. We called the bridge again and asked for another opening so that we could go back to Factory Creek (the bridge opens on request on weekends). I thanked the bridge tender for opening a second time for us and promised that it would be our last time through today. I anchored just past the Ladys Island Marina on two anchors because the creek is somewhat narrow.
After we anchored I rowed to the marina and tied up my dinghy and walked across the street to do laundry. While I was waiting I got lunch at the Sonic across the street and then walked over to the Publix. Mark walked over to the Publix and stopped by the laundromat on his way back. On the trip back to our boats, we were treated to a sunset bagpipe medley performed by someone standing on the end of the docks. He was quite good and got a round of applause from the boaters at the marina. He even did and encore of 'Amazing Grace'.
November 26, 2004 - St Simons Island, GA
From Beaufort we headed down to the New River at mile 570 to anchor for the night. We got a late start because of the restricted bridge opening and got through at 9:00 a.m. When we arrived we anchored in the New River and a large shrimp boat anchored right behind us. He left most of his deck lights on all night and could probably be seen for miles.
In the morning we crossed the Savannah River into Georgia. As we entered the river I noticed a container ship approaching from the distance. He seemed to be far enough away, but when the strong current hit us head on, he was upon us in no time. I slipped by with no problem, but I was sure that the catamaran behind me was going to slow down to let the container ship pass before continuing across the river, but he kept on coming and just squeaked by before the ship on him (see picture below).
We headed down to Kilkenny Creek and anchored around the bend past the marina in about 11 feet. There was a cold front approaching and we had good protection from trees along the bank. After we anchored we took Mark's dinghy over to the marina. I bought 6 gallons of diesel fuel and we asked if the restaurant nest door would be opened tomorrow, which was Thanksgiving. The marina called the restaurant then told us it would be closed. We decided to head back to the boats then come back and have dinner at the restaurant that night. As we were about to head over to the restaurant, the first line of showers hit and we decided to forget the idea.
The next morning it was cool and windy so we decided to stick around for the day and try to find a restaurant that was open in a nearby town. We docked Mark's dinghy at the restaurant's dock and asked for directions to town at the marina. We were told that the nearest town with a restaurant was about 13 miles away and he wasn't sure if there would be a restaurant opened. We decided to ride over anyway since we had nothing else to do.
The ride into town was against the wind and slightly uphill and after about a hour and about 8 more miles to go, we decided to abandon the idea and head back. As we riding back I spotted what looked like an organizer on the side of the road. I was riding about 20 yards in front of Mark and pointed it out to him as I passed it. Mark stopped and picked it up as I circled back. He opened it and found that it contained a woman's drivers license, credit cards, etc. There was also a broken calculator inside, so I figured that it must have been run over by a passing car. I guessed that the owner probably had taken it out of her handbag, placed it on top of her car and driven off forgetting it was there.
We rode back to the marina and gave the organizer to the owner. He looked at the license photo and said that he knew the woman and that she lived a few blocks away. He said that she was also a waitress in the restaurant next door and would be thrilled that we found her organizer. One of the customers that were in the marina at the time looked at the license photo and recognized the woman as their waitress form last night. We never got our Thanksgiving dinner but at least quest to find it turned out to be worth the effort.
We left the next morning and headed towards the Frederica River. It was cold and blowing about 15 knots. I was supposed to warn up in the afternoon but never got past the the mid 50's. We had a nice but short sail down the Sapelo Sound and later arrived at a very shallow portion of the ICW, the Little Mud River and the Altamaha River, at dead low tide. As I rounded a bend and entered the Little Mud River I saw a sailboat aground near the starboard bank. As passing trawler stopped and pulled him off. I stayed far away from the starboard bank and called Mark, who was behind me, and advised him to do the same. I squeaked through the Little Mud River with just inches below my keel and Mark did too, but later as I was crossing the Altamaha River, I heard Mark call me on the radio to tell me he was hard aground by marker 208. I was well past him at this time and didn't think I could get close enough to him to throw him a line since I draw almost a foot more than him.
An approaching sailboat called him on the radio and asked if they could help, but Mark told them to stay clear since he thought that they would also run aground if they came near. They took his advise, but tried to pass him between his boat and the marker instead of going around the outside of him. They went hard aground also. After a few minutes a small sport-fish came by and the wake bounced him off and he was on his way. We got to the Frederica River shortly before sunset and anchored just passed the Fort Frederica National Monument. Since it's supposed to be cold again and blowing 15-20 knots, we decided to stay here for a day and visit the fort and nearby St Simons Island.
November 30, 2004 - St Augustine, FL
We took the dinghy over to the small dock at Fort Frederica. The sign at the dock said that it would be dry for two hours on either side of low tide, but we said 'what the hell' and tied up the dinghy and rode into town. I turned out to be a beautiful day with plenty of sun and warm temperatures in the high seventies. We stopped for lunch in town and walked around Fort Frederica on the way back. When we got back to the dinghy it was sitting in the mud, so we had to wait around for about an hour before it was afloat again.
In the morning we left the Frederica River and entered St Simon's Sound. From there we passed Jekyll Island and then crossed St Andrews Sound. We anchored for the night at Drum Point just across from Cumberland Island. I could see wild horses grazing along the shore. They were close enough that I could get a picture without leaving the boat. There were about 20 boats anchored here this afternoon, but there was plenty of room for all of us.
In the morning we left at about 7:30 and crossed the St Mary's River into Florida. Mark left about an hour earlier than I, as he usually does because I have a much faster boat and will usually catch and pass him before we arrive at the next stop. I stopped at Fernandina Beach for fuel and then continued on. Along the way I go a call from 'Rag Time', on of the Canadian boats that we had met further back along the way. He said that he heard me calling the dock at Fernandina Beach and called to say hello. They were going to stop at Pablo Creek for the night, but we already were set to stop at Fort George which is a much better anchorage.
After anchoring at Fort George, I noticed a crab pot float near the port side of the boat. I thought I was far enough away, but kept an eye on it any way. I read for a while then decided to check on the float again. I couldn't see it anywhere. Just then Mark came by in his dinghy on his way to shore. I asked him to look for the float as I pulled in my anchor rode hoping that the float would pop up from under the boat. The float did pop up but moved along with the boat as I pulled on the anchor rode. It was caught on something under the boat.
We tried hooking it with the boat hook and untied the line from the float in an attempt to pull the line through, but still couldn't get the line free. I decided that I would have to go over the side to free the crab pot. I put on my wetsuit and climbed down the stern ladder. The water was much colder than I had expected and it took my breath away for a few seconds. I caught my breath and dove under. The line had somehow gotten wrapped around the prop. I freed it, tied the float back on and Mark pulled it back away from my boat.
The next day as we were motoring on toward St Augustine, I spotted 'Rag Time' as I passed Pablo Creek. They were in the process of pulling in their anchor, so I decided no to bother them with a call on the VHF for a while. After about 20 minutes I gave them a call to say hello. They told me that they had used a trip line on their anchor that night and the boat had floated over the line when the tide changed. The trip-line was wrapped around their prop. He was about to go over the side when I called. I told them about my experience last night and to be prepared for the cold water.
I got to St Augustine at around 2:00 p.m. and found a spot on the north side of the bridge. Mark arrived at 2:30 and decided to try the south side as the north side had gotten very crowded. After anchoring and making sure that I had enough swing room as the tide changed, I rowed over to the dinghy dock. Mark and I walked into town and has a pasta dinner in a small pizza restaurant in town. When I got back to the boat I noticed that a boat anchor nearby named 'Meteor', a Pearson Invicta I believe, was sailing around on it's anchor and coming pretty close to me. I'll have to keep an eye on him.
December 6, 2004 - Indian Harbour Beach, FL
We stayed in St Augustine for two more days and then headed to Daytona. While we were there we met Don and his family. Don is traveling on a Gemini 34 catamaran named 'Calypso', with his wife, Melora, his two daughters, Savannah and Ginny Cate, and their dog Rugg. Don had been moving their car south in short hops as they made their way along the ICW. Don was driving up to Brunswick, GA to pick up the car and kindly offered to drive us to the supermarket, West Marine, etc. The next morning Don was driving over to St Brendan's Isle in Green Cove Springs to pick up his mail. Since I use the same mail service, I called them and asked them to give my mail to Don when he arrived. That saved me sometime and a few bucks as well.
The night before we left I met up with Sy at the A1A Ale Works in town. I had gotten their just after happy hour and had missed some good free food and their half-priced micro brewed ale. I talked with Sy for a while then went back to the boat at around 8:00 pm. I needed to get up early the next morning to beat the opening restriction at the Bridge of Lions.
We arrived at Daytona and anchored across from the Halifax Harbour Marina where I anchored with Tom and Patty from 'Swan' this past spring. We went ashore and walked into town for dinner. They were having a holiday festival that night with free music, some free samples of food, and free admission at the town museum. We had dinner in a small Italian/Greek restaurant, hung around town for a while, then headed back to our boats.
From Daytona I headed on to Indian Harbour Beach. Mark stopped at Cocoa since he had never been there. I had just been there in the spring and there isn't too much around town. Most everything is in Cocoa Beach on the other side of the river. Unfortunately, you can't walk or ride over the bridges that connect the beach side to the mainland.
I arrived in Indian Harbour Beach at around 2:30 and called the Mathers Bridge for an opening because I wanted to anchor on the north side of the bridge where there is less local boat traffic. The bridge tender told me that he was having electrical problems with the bridge and that it would be about an hour before the electricians arrived (a familiar story). I decided to anchor at Dragon Point which is a little more exposed.
After I anchored, I rowed over to Telemar Bay Marina and tied my dinghy up the dock next to Matt's boat, said hello to Matt and Jarett and walked over to Swan to say hi to Tom and Patty before dropping my clothes off at the laundromat across the street at the apartment complex. After the laundry was done I walked back to Swan for drinks with Tom, Patty, Doug, Gus and Matt. After drinks I enjoyed Patty's delicious Rice and Beans (Hers always tastes so good. When I make it, I always need to add a lot of hot sauce).
In the morning I rowed back over to Telemar Bay Marina and tied my dinghy up behind Swan and rode the bike over to the library and Wal-Mart and had lunch at Wendy's. On the way back I talked to Tom for a while. Tom was in the process of applying three more coats of varnish to Swan's rub rails. About an hour after I got back to the boat, Mark arrived and anchored behind me. I took a dinghy ride ashore with him and walked back to Wal-Mart and then stopped at Publix to pick up some steak or dinner. I'm planning to leave for Vero Beach in the morning or for Rock Point, which is half way between here and Vero, in the afternoon. It all depends on what time I get up in the morning. I'm not in much of a rush anymore since I'm pretty far south now and the temperatures have warmed up quite a bit.
December 11, 2004 - Vero Beach, FL
We left for Rock Point in the afternoon and arrived at the anchorage in about two hours. There were three other sailboats already anchored here on the NW side of one of the spoil islands. We left early the next morning hoping to arrive at Vero Beach early enough to get a mooring without having to raft to another boat. I called the Vero Beach Municipal Marina about 30 minutes before I would arrive at about 12:30 p.m. to reserve a mooring, but when I got there they had me raft to another boat anyway. The mooring field was very crowded even though they have over 50 moorings. Almost all of the boats were rafted two or even three to a mooring. I found out that the only boats that would not have another boat rafted to them were the few that had long term contracts with the marina.
I rafted up to a Hunter 30 named 'Gladys Marie' and called the owner to let him know that I would be tying-up to him. He wasn't around so I maneuvered alongside and tied my lines to his cleats and then ran a line from my bow to the mooring. Later on the owner arrived and we talked for a while and had a few beers. he told me that the last guy that had rafted to him tied his lines to his stanchions instead of his cleats. It turned out that that guy was Butch on 'Elvin Magic' a J-28, who had been traveling down from Annapolis with Tom and Pat.
The next day as I was rowing ashore I spotted an Island Packet with 'Snark' on the transom. I wasn't sure if it was Hampton's boat because the canvas was a different color. I rowed over and sure enough it was him. I didn't expect to see him here because he had left a lot earlier than I had and he had told me that he was heading to the Keys. It turns out that he had been there for about a month and Jack who had been aboard as crew had gone back home a few weeks ago. We talked for a while and later on Hampton came over to my boat for dinner. Hampton brought the beer and I made linguine and clam sauce, one of my favorite dishes. Hampton was my first taker on this meal. I had offered it before, buy no one took me up on it because they had not liked clams. Well, I made a double portioned and we finished it all.
I have the mooring reserved for four days right now, but I may stay longer. They have almost everything you need here, including free bus service all over town. It's a very nice area and is sometimes referred to as 'Velcro Beach' by cruisers because many of them stop here planning to spend a few days and end of staying a few months.
January 12, 2005 - Miami Beach, FL
After a month in Vero Beach, I finally untied the boat from the mooring and headed towards Miami. Over the holidays there were at least one hundred boats in the mooring field. For Christmas everyone got together for a pot luck Christmas dinner at the marina facilities. The marina was closed for Christmas and the marina staff was off, but they had been nice enough to leave the facilities open for the boats staying in the marina. Everyone brought some food and we all had a nice Christmas dinner.
While in Vero Beach, I ordered an outboard motor for the dinghy from a store that sold on eBay. They had the bet prices on outboard engines and guaranteed to match or beat anyone's price. They also offered free shipping and they got the engine to me the next day.
I left Vero on a Saturday morning and headed down the ICW and stopped in Jensen Beach for the night. The next morning I headed to Lake Worth. After passing the St. Lucie Inlet the ICW became very congested with pleasure boats since it was a beautiful Sunday afternoon. The boat traffic was like nothing I had seen before. It seemed like there were hundreds power of boats out on the water that day and they all seem to be passing me at top speed from both directions. The waterway looked like a washing machine from all of the boat wakes, and in the middle of all of this traffic, kids were wakeboarding, which I thought was truly insane since they often fell off right in front of approaching boats. On top of all this I had to stop and wait for bridges to open for me to proceed. Thankfully the areas around the bridges were slow speed, no wake zones. I got to Lake Worth anchorage at around 3:30 p.m. and dropped my anchor among 30 or 40 other boats. It had been a long day and I was glad to finally drop anchor for the night. I will definitely avoid this stretch of waterway on a weekend next time.
I stayed in Lake Worth fro a day to run some errands and left on Tuesday towards the Ft Lauderdale area. Being a weekday, the boat traffic was light and the trip was pleasant even though there were many bridges to pass through. The bridges opened o schedule, but were timed well so that you didn't have to wait long at the next bridge. Along the way I passed many multi-million dollar homes along the waterfront. There are not many anchorages along this stretch of the waterway, and I had to choose between Boca Raton, Pompano Beach and Ft Lauderdale. The anchorage at Boca Raton looked small, and there was a large shoal in the center of it, so I continued on. I wasn't sure if I could make the Lake Sylvia anchorage in Ft Lauderdale by sunset, so I stopped at the Lake Santa Barbara anchorage in Pompano Beach just north of the Ft Lauderdale area. I had heard that a cruiser anchored hear before was asked to leave, so I was concerned about anchoring here, but when I arrived there was a police boat sitting at the entrance to the anchorage and he said nothing, so I proceeded in and dropped the hook. There were a couple of boats anchored here already so I felt comfortable that we wouldn't be bothered.
We weren't asked to leave and in the morning I headed out towards Miami. The trip was nice and along the way I passed Jim on Savannah, a Cape Dory 30 that was rafted to my boat over the Christmas holiday ay Vero. He was also headed to Miami. As I entered Biscayne Bay the water turned a beautiful turquoise color, and was much clearer than it was further north along the Florida coast. After passing under the last bridge draw bridge, I turn east and traveled alongside the Venetian Causeway toward Miami beach. I dropped anchor across from the Miami Yacht Club. I was given the GPS coordinates for this spot from Don who I had been rafted alongside back in Vero Beach. He said that he had stayed here for several months and that it was a good anchorage which wasn't exposed to boast wakes on the weekends since it was in a slow speed zone. I also have a great view of the cruise ships that come into port and the Miami skyline. The only drawback that I found so far is that it is a long dinghy ride to the dinghy docks at South Beach. I may move closer in later on. Brad and Joyce also pointed out a house across the way that supposedly belongs to Jackie Chan.
As I arrived I got a call on the VHF from Brad and Joyce on Desta. They were friends of Don's and he had called them to let them know I was coming. I anchored near their boat and talked with them for a short while and then settled in. A while later, Richard from Slow Dancing, the boat on the other side of me came over and told me about a cruisers get together over on Monument Island at 4:30 p.m. The cruisers in the area get together every Wednesday for drinks and snacks. I took the dinghy over and saw several people I knew including John from back home in Huntington, NY.
The next afternoon I took the dinghy over to visit Bill on Magnolia who I had last seen almost two years ago back in Ft Myers Beach. I've kept in touch with Bill by email and he had told me that he was going to be here for a while. After visiting with Bill for a while we headed in to South Beach. Bill had found a spot where he could get free wireless Internet access. I wanted to walk around South Beach and take in the sights.
January 25, 2005 - Miami Beach, FL
I'm really enjoying South Beach even though I have a 20 minute dingy ride to get into town. I could move closer in, but I like the spot where I am anchored now. A few boats will pick up and move close to town for the weekdays, and move back where I am for the weekends to avoid all of the boat wakes near town. I may try this next week.
I've found a great deal at a local restuarant. Everything on the menu is $4.95 on Monday through Thursday, from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.. The food is very good and you get an adequate portion. I went last week with John and this week with Bill. I had the grilled salmon the first time, and chicken Scarapeilo the second. I've found an inexpensive Mexican restaurant for an inexpensive lunch as well.
Besides the good deals on food, there are some very beautifull women here. South Beach is packed with modeling agencies with lots of beautiful models. When I finally get tired of all this, I'll try to pull myself away and head down to the Keys. A few boats here have left for the Bahamas this week since the weather has been calm. Bill is preraring to cross over to the Bahamas, but is still preparing. He is planning an extended cruise that will take him from the Bahamas to the Dominican Republic and beyond. He expects to be out of the country for about two years so he has a lot of planning and provisioning for his trip. I may try for the Bahamas next year if I get around upgrading my with some need items such as solar panels or a small generator, and a much needed Bimini for the cockpit.
February 1, 2005 - Miami Beach, FL
This morning I woke up to a dog barking and another boat anchored too close to me. I decided that it was time to move. The dog belongs to the owner of another boat on a mooring about 100 yards away. He always barks when his owner leaves him alone on the boat. The sailboat that was too close to me, came in yesterday afternoon while I was ashore and squeezed into a tight spot between and two other boats. He was fine for the time being, but when the wind shifted to the SE as it was supposed to on Wednesday, I would be right on top of him. I had convinced two other boats to move from the spot in the past two weeks and was getting tired of it. This and the baring dog finally got me to move.
I pulled up the anchor at around 8:00 a.m. and moved over to Belle Isle and anchored behind Bill's boat and left myself plenty of swing room. As I paid out the rode while setting the anchor, I scrubbed it with a brush to get all of the crud that had accumulated on it during the past two weeks. I was glad to be over here. I cut about 30 minutes off my round trip dinghy ride to shore, and I can go back to the boat easily any time I want. As I got into shore I stopped and talked with Bill. He was doing his morning Internet session. He found a spot where he gets free wireless Internet right where everyone ties up their dinghies. The only problem with this is that he has to sit on the ground while he uses the computer. I usually go over to the Van Dyke Coffee shop where I can sit down and have breakfast while I surf the Net. This afternoon were going to meet after lunch and walk along the beach and check out the beautiful women.
March 19, 2005 - Miami Beach, FL
I'm still here in Miami Beach. I had decided not to go to Marathon after hearing how crowded it gets there. I've moved the boat a few times to different anchorages in the area trying to get away from noise, large wakes, etc. I found a real nice anchorage betweem Palm, Hibiscus, and Star Island. Right now I am anchored in front of a house that belongs to Julio Iglesias (click here to see a picture). I found that out from one of the tour boats that passes by. I know that there are several other celebrity homes nearby because I can faintly hear the tour boat guide talking about them after he passes by.
I'll probably be leaving here and heading north around the 1st of April.