Leiston

Leiston is a unique town among the wide variety of villages and settlements in Suffolk. In early history, Leiston was known only for its proximity to the river Mismer and important ports at Syzewell and Minsmere Havens (and therefore lucrative wrecking and smuggling activity) and the presence of nearby Leiston Abbey which would have dominated the local economy until the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII. By fluke of history, the business of one bladesmith, Richard Garrett (born 12.10.1757), grew steadily from 1778 to metamorphose into an important Victorian engineering factory. Famous for its threshing machines, traction engines and many other products, Garretts engineering works transformed Leiston from a hamlet of a few hundred inhabitants into an industrial town.


Many other businesses were drawn into Leiston to service the growing population including that of corn miller. In 1865, we find the first mention of a smock mill run by James Bedwell operating on a ridge carrying the railway line from the station over Valley Road and towards Thorpe Halt and Aldeburgh. Henry James Lambert is first mentioned as operating the windmill in 1892, alongside a steam driven mill. The slope from Valley Road up to the site is still known as Lambert's Lane and the cottage on the corner carries the familar cartouche of cream-white paint with the decorative serif lettering (note the inward-sloping 'H'): 'MILL HOUSE'.

Leiston Mill House

Leiston Mill Close-up

But surely there must have been something, perhaps an arrow, above the name? The mill was dismantled in 1917 when the use of wind power to grind corn became uneconomical, however some of the original buildings still exist at the top of Lamberts Lane.  Demolition was carried out by John 'Tiny' Brown who also demolished the mill in Snape. the base of which was later used as a house by the Suffolk composer Benjamin Britten. The mill stones from Snape were used in the refurbishment of Saxtead mill, just outside Framlingham.

Leiston Lot Betts

This is a gravestone close to the main door of Leiston church in Waterloo Avenue. An earlier photograph of the same stone from the 1970s formed the basis of a lost oil painting by Borin Van Loon (still looking!). We think it must have been the name of the grave's occupant: 'LOT BETTS... also of ANN, Relict of Lot Betts' (hopefully not known in her lifetime as "Lot's wife". This recent view is replete with molehill, dead leaves and a wealth of algae and moss to obscure the ancient carved script. Leiston church is one of the most distinctive, not to say eccentric, ecclesiastical buildings in a county groaning with hundreds of historic churches and monastic ruins.

Leiston Church is dedicated, along with nineteen others in the county, to St Margaret of Antioch. She is said to have been the Christian daughter of a pagan priest, Aesidius of Antioch, during the reign of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. She was denounced as a Christian by the prefect Olbrius after she rejected his suit and was subjected to a number of hideous ordeals including beeing swallowed by Satan in the form of a dragon. According to legend, the dragon's belly burst open and she emerged unharmed. She killed the dragon (surprisingly still alive!) with a cross-tipped spear symbolizing the triumph of good over evil. She is the patron saint of women in childbirth and her emblem is a dragon. The church itself was probably built on the site of an earlier Saxon church, one of three known to have been in the area. A major rebuild, apart from the 14th century tower, in 1854 by maverick Gothic Revival architect Edward Buckton Lamb reshaped the interior of the church as a large auditorium for the evangelical preachings of the current incumbent John Blathwayt. Imaginitive use of Kentish rag stone, flint and French Caen stone for detailing gives the exterior a period appearance, but the interior is a riot of timber roofing beams and carving with some attractive painted surfaces in the chancel.
Reading
May, D.Y. and K.: 'From flintknappers to atom splitters: a history of Leiston-cum-Sizewell'. Quickthorn Books, 2001.
Whitehead, R.A.: 'Garretts of Leiston'. Model and Allied Publications, 1964.

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