Logan Mountains -- Cirque of The Unclimbables "Unabridged" Guide to all Recorded Climbs Copyright 2005 George Bell Version 2/13/06 Compiled by George Bell. Layout and most route descriptions (from AAJs) by Clint Cummins. Peaks are listed in counterclockwise order starting at the entrance to the Cirque. Routes are listed left to right (ideally). References: American Alpine Journal (AAJ, 1956-) [for 75% of this], Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, Climbing #131 (Apr/May 1992), 1996 Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ) [first publication of this guide], others listed below. Symbols: * - Due to written reports, personal contact, or just darn rumors, this is believed to be an exceptionally fine route! Notes: (1) Elevations: Glacier Lake: 788m=2585' Fairy Meadows: 1600m=5250' Most elevations are accurate only to within 20m or 65'. (2) Ratings of most ascents by Arnold Wexler and Bill Buckingham are unrecorded. When no further information is given, you would be wise to expect rock climbing to about 5.6, and bring an ice axe and crampons. Most of the other routes with ratings are pure rock routes. +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | WARNING! Rock climbing is, by its very nature, a potentially hazardous | | activity. Prior and competent knowledge in the use of various rock climbing | | safety devices is assumed. While an attempt has been made to insure that | | the information provided here is accurate, it is never a substitute for | | your better judgement. By use of the provided information, the reader hereby | | releases the authors and providers of said information from liability for | | any injury, including death, that might result. You have been warned! | +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Mt. Harrison Smith (and Middle Cathedral Peak) (2500m=8200') A massive, complex ridge leading east from Mt. Proboscis. It has dozens of summits, the highest of which is referred to as Middle Cathedral while the spectacular eastern high point is Mt. Harrison Smith. The South Face is nearly 5,000' high but is quite broken and ledgy and relatively low angle overall. The rock at the base of the East face is very monolithic and reminds one of the base of El Capitan. Unfortunately, after 800' or so this face deteriorates into a long series of easy ledges separated by cliffs. The NE Buttress is a familiar sight to all who have camped in Fairy Meadows, and is chronicled in a well-known Galen Rowell photograph (see p. 59 of Mountain Light). Routes 3 and 3a ascend this formation. To the right (W) of this further buttresses are found but they appear rather mossy and unappealing. Anyone contemplating an ascent of the north side should consider seriously why one of them is named "Bavarian Cow Ranch". Likely the easy accessibility of the North face accounts for the number of routes on it. 1) S Face FA: Arnold Wexler party, 1955 2) Upper S Face (IV 5.8) Starts from a talus fan 1500' above the toe of the wall. Ascend 2500', half roped, half scrambling, to a ridge 500 feet from the summit. (not completed to summit, appeared to be 3rd class). Descent: rappel the route. FA: Joe Bridges, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, Galen Rowell, 1973 3) Direct E Face (V 5.10d A2) * Follows most obvious crack on NE prow facing Fairy Meadows. Crack is left (S) of several prominent white overhangs. 17 pitches, 2 days. Snow and ice prevented the FA party from reaching the summit. "brilliant" [Iwa to Yuki #113]. A 1995 ascent reports this route is "a lot dirtier, wetter, and looser than the LFT, but more of an adventure". FA: Syuichi Okada, Masahiko Suga, 1985 3a) N(?) Face (V, 5.11, A2) "Notte Chiara (Bright Night)" This route appears to be quite close to route 3, and they may overlap. Head for "a great dihedral which leads toward the summit from a point halfway up the wall". [Topo in 1994 AAJ] FA: Mario Manica, Paola Fanton, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Danny Zampiccoli, Fabio Leoni, 1993 4) NE Buttress 4 pitches of 5.7-5.9 free climbing, 3.5 pitches of dirty aid climbing to a hanging bivouac. Buttress is 2000' plus a 1200' jagged ridge to the summit. FP(attempted): Joe Bridges, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, Galen Rowell, 1973 4a) Central North Pillar (V, 5.10a, A2) "Bavarian Cow Ranch" Route follows third pillar from the left. Follow the main crack system to the top of the pillar (end of route). Only 30m of aid (wet), 1 bolt. Descent: Rappel the route. Rack: Some pitons (LA, KB, AG), Rocks (medium size & double), full rack of friends. FA: Rainer and Ernst Grosskopf, Christian Rester, 26 July 1992 4b) N Pillar (V, 5.12b) "Fitzcarraldo" 16 pitches, 700m, 50 bolts were placed on lead. Little is known about the location of this route relative to these others. It is rumored to be over-bolted. FA: Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowatz, Gerd Heidorn, Leo Reitzner, 1995 5) N Buttress (VI 5.10 A3) Climb mossy dihedral and traverse up and left to a square niche (1st bivouac). Keep right of the crack above with poor protection to 2nd bivouac on tiny shelf. Follow great chimney which becomes a couloir with ice and unstable rock blocks. At the col between the tower and the summit, continue along the ridge, penduluming finally back to a dihedral. FA: Jean Michel Haupens, Philippe Godart, 1977 6) N Face Follow a steeply sloping snow-covered shelf left across the North Face, crossing an avalanche scoured gully to a point directly below the summit of Middle Cathedral, then straight up a broken face. FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Pentadactyl Spires (2440m=8000') The "five fingered" spires are subsidiary summits of Middle Cathedral Peak. Following the main crest which extends eastward from Mt. Proboscis, the Pentadactyl Spires are a cluster of five(?) spires just east of the point where the ridge defining the Echelon spires comes in. They may be more obvious viewed from the south, the direction from which they were originally climbed. 7) Pentadactyl Spires (first three) FA: Arnold Wexler party, 1955 8) Fourth Pentadactyl Spire - N Face A finger-like snow couloir (glacial ice or ice mantled with snow). Starts at 45 degrees, steepens to 60 degrees near top (belay from inside several crevasses). 18 pitches, 3 hours. Descent: downclimb the route (also 3 hours). FA: Doug Burbank, Bill Putnam, 1975 Echelon Spires (2360m=7740') The Echelon Spires form a ridge extending south from Middle Cathedral Peak and are visible from the vicinity of Glacier Lake. The South Echelon Spire is the prominent triangular prow. To reach them you must bushwhack up Brintnell Creek past the main entrance to The Cirque. 9) Echelon Spires (all four) FA: Arnold Wexler party, 1955 10) South Echelon Spire - SE Ridge (V 5.10c A1) * 20 pitches [Iwa to Yuki #113] FA: Syuichi Okada, Toshiyuko Arai, Masahiko Suga, Kinuyo Hagiwara, 1985 Mt. Proboscis (2600m=8530') This well-named hunk of granite has always reminded me of Yosemite's Half Dome. It remains one of the most difficult summits in North America to reach (the easiest free route is 5.12a). To reach all routes (except 14) you must cross a difficult snow/ice col ("What Notch") from Fairy Meadows (FA route 13), or bushwhack up Brintnell Creek from Glacier Lake and up the proper drainage (12-13 hours going down), or fly in directly by helicopter (most recent ascents). For a photo of the SE face with routes 12, 12a, 12b, 13 and 13b drawn in, see Rock and Ice #76, Dec 1996, p. 28. 11) S Ridge (IV 5.7 A2) * Scramble up Mt. Contact (2556 m) from the S or SW. The view up the knife-edge south ridge from here is reportedly awe inspiring. The rest of the route involves a lot of horizontal ridge travel with some tricky steps requiring aid (pitons may be required). Cornices may be encountered early in the season. Descending this route is also tricky with all the traversing. This used to be the standard descent route, but most big wall climbers now rap their ascent route. FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 11a) Piton Karmik (VI 5.10b A3) This follows a pillar on the left side of the wall and probably climbs the SE Face of Mt. Contact, which is the high point on the South Ridge of Mt. Proboscis. Mostly aid climbing, with some free pitches. FA: Denis Burdet, Thierry Bionda, Antonin Guenat, 2001 12) The Great Canadian Knife (VI 5.13b) * Follows an arete on left (SW) side of SE face, formed by a huge left facing dihedral. 17 pitches; two are 5.13. FA: Todd Skinner, Paul Piana, Galen Rowell, 1992 12a) Yukon Tears (VI, 5.12c) * 200 ft right (NE) of The Great Canadian Knife. 24 pitches, seven are 5.12. FA: Kurt Smith, Jeff Jackson, Scott Cosgrove, 1994 12b) The Grendel (VI, 5.10, A4) * Follows a water groove straight up half way between routes 12a and 13. Seven days climbing, 15 pitches; four are A4. Many heads, beaks and hooks. FA: Kevin Daniels, Chris Kalous, Chris Righter, Greg Epperson, 1996 13) SE Face (Original Route) (VI 5.9+ A3 [original rating 5.8, A4]) * 2000' crack system in center of wall. One hanging bivouac, one on ledges halfway, one on summit. Descend S Ridge or rappell route. 2 bolts and 251 pitons placed. A 1998 party called it "straightforward and fun", and rappelled the route rather than reversing 11 as the FA party did. FA: James P. McCarthy, Layton Kor, Richard McCracken, Royal Robbins, 1963 13a) Via Costa Brava (VI 5.12a R, original aid rating unknown) * A variation of route 13 which follows more free-climbable terrain, usually to the left (SW) of the original line. Begin up a right leaning ramp for three pitches (5.9 or under if dry). The middle pitches are the crux and lie left of the original route (13). About 2/3 of the way up the wall, traverse a pitch left on an easy but loose ledge to a left facing corner system which offers up to 5.10 free climbing to the summit ridge. Free climbing complicated by snow melt, Barry Blanchard recommends going late July or later. 15 pitches. This is currently the easiest free route on Proboscis. FA: Jose Maria Cadina and Joaquin Olmo, 1992 FFA: Nancy Feagin and Barry Blanchard, 1997 (crux pitch toproped only) FFA: Jonathan Copp and Josh Warton, 2001 (on-sighted in 9 hours!) 13b) Crazy Horse (VI, 5.11a, A4) This route lies right (NE) of 13, following a black water streak through a prominent roof two thirds of the way up. See photo in Rock & Ice #76 [labeled "Spanish Route 1996"]. FA: Jeff Selvig, Simon Elias (Spain), Chad McMullen, 1995 14) NE Face (V 5.9 A2) 1650' Cross bergschrund on R; from top of snow take line of left margin of face (just R of E ridge). Diagonal slightly right near the top, joining the N ridge to the summit. FA: Karl Kosa, Gustav Ammerer, Erwin Weilguny, 1977 Flat Top (2500m=8200') Another well named peak which pales in the shadow of it's neighbor Mt. Proboscis. The slabby East Face of Flat Top looks impressive at first but upon close inspection it is not very steep, and as a consequence often wet. 15) N Ridge FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 16) SE Face (IV 5.7 A1) 1650' Start in right-diagonalling crack and follow a line right of the prominent black right-facing corner. Then up left margin of SE face, direct to the summit. FA: Karl Kosa, Erich Lackner, Erwin Weilguny, 1977 Mt. Meringue (2580m=8465') A relatively tame peak in comparison to it's neighbors, named for it's summit snowfield. 17) S Face (IV 5.8) FA: K. Ezaki, T. Kuranishi, 1979 18) SE Ridge FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Bustle Tower (2300m=7545') The South side of this peak is over 2000' high in places and is one of the most beautiful walls in the area. The other side, by contrast is quite broken and complex, yet probably still technical. 19) W Ridge (IV 5.9 A1) * Steep snow to unstable gully, escape to right. Then all pitches are on the ridge or to the left, except for a 10' tension traverse to the right two-thirds of the way up. Crux 5.9 overhang in a dihedral gains a knife-edged ridge. Two pitches on the ridge to a false summit tower; true summit a bit further, with windy bivouac cave below it. Descent: rappel long icy gully. FA: Joe Bridges, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, Galen Rowell, 1973 19a) "Club International" (V, 5.11b or 5.10+, A2) * Route topo drawn on a girly magazine of the same name found in a waterproof case at the bivy site in Fairy Meadows. 12 pitches. Follows left facing dihedrals left (SW) of route 20, over a big drippy roof on pitch 6 (bring extra rope to fix this for the descent). All but 60m of route done free. FA: Sean Isaac and Andreas Taylor, 1997. FFA: Jonathan Copp and Tim O'Neill, 2001. 19b) Don't Get Piggy (V+, 5.12a) * This is a significant variation to Club International. From the top of pitch 4 of Club International, follow a line of left trending splitter cracks for 4-5 pitches. These pitches include: a crux finger crack, a wet groove, a wild offwidth ear and an overhanging, juggy roof. A few hundred feet above the roof the route merges with Club International, from here moderate climbing leads to a ridge and the summit. Rap the route or Club International. FA: Brooke Andrews and Jonathan Copp, 2001 20) SE Face (VI 5.10 A1) *, 2000' L of SE Dihedral route. Climbs great dihedrals, avoiding the last (overhanging, left-leaning) one by traversing to the right to join exit gullies two pitches from the top. All but 200' freed in 1980 by Bill Wylie and Mark Wilford. 17 pitches. Warning: this route may have been affected by a massive rockfall on this face in the 90's. FA: Jaques Collar, Jacques Ramouillet, Renzo Lorenzi, 1977 20a) "Beppin" (beautiful Women in Japanese) (V 5.10a A3-) Follow the leftmost of three left leaning dihedrals, eventually reaching a bowl right of a major pillar. 13 pitches. [Gakujin #629] FA: Shogo Kada, Makoto Kuroda; July 5-9, 1999 21) SE Dihedral (V 5.8 A2) 1320' FA: Ernst Machacek, Gustav Ammerer, 1977 22) Bustle Tower Sub-Peak - SW Face III 5.9 A1, 660' The exact location of this route is not clear. It may be on Terrace Tower. FA: Gustav Ammerer, Ernst Machacek, 1977 Terrace Tower (2100m=6890') A squat, cubicle tower to the NE of Bustle Tower. It's top is a gently sloping shelf and it does not appear to have a well defined summit. 22a) "The White Tower" (III, 5.11) Follows the left side of a pillar on the South Face for 5 pitches. Slings indicate this route had been attempted or used as a rap route. FA: Paul Friberg and Kurt Blair, 1997 FFA: Yan Mongrain and Jay Knower, 2001 22b) "Light in August" (IV, 5.12-) Follows the right side of the white pillar formed by previous route, 8 pitches. FA: Yan Mongrain and Jay Knower, 2001 23) E Buttress (IV 5.7 A2) 12 pitches, to the highest and steepest point of the wall. FA: William Webster, Steven Stine, Bill Gibson, 1977 23a) Brent's Hammer (IV, 5.11+) 6 pitches up the SE Face consisting mostly of clean hand jamming. The route begins left of an overhang and black section of rock. The first four pitches are 5.10 and the last two 5.11. Rack: standard plus triple Camalots #1 and #2, optional #4 or #5 Camalot for the last pitch. Scramble left up the grassy ledges leading to a loose gully, 5m after the gully step up and right. The first pitch ascends an arching, right facing corner. From here more or less head straight up the main crack system (see photo). Descend by rapping the route with two ropes, using fixed belays at the tops of pitches 6, 5, 3 and 1. FA: A. Mawson, D Lavigne, J. Lavigne, July 2005 24) NE corner (II 5.6) FA: Joe Bridges, Galen Rowell, 1973 25) N. Face FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Phenocryst Spire (2420m=7940') This peak lies at the intersection of three ridges. One leads towards Mt Meringue, another to the Lotus Flower Tower, and the third to the Huey Spires. "Phenocryst" is a geological term for an embedded crystal. 26) W Ridge (traverse from Meringue) FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 27) S Buttress (IV 5.7 A1), 1980' FA: Hilda Lindner, Rudi Lindner, 1977 27a) The Hustler (V 5.10- R), 1500' 12 pitches, starting with a 3 pitch clean white pillar. Clean granite slabs and corners, with some unavoidable loose rock and runouts on the harder sections. FA: Mark Reeves and Steve Sinfield, 2001 28) E Ridge Starts with 10 long pitches of crack climbing up a large dihedral in the south face between Phenocryst and the Huey Spires, the last pitch being the best. 4 pitches on the east ridge to the summit. Descent: 9 rappels with fixed pins, 500' of down climbing to glacier. FA: Doug Burbank, Jamie Farrar, 1975 Huey's Spires (2310m=7580') The three Huey's Spires, like most of these peaks have no easy route. As usual in this area, their south faces are impressive clean walls while their north sides are black, wet, and mossy with occasional snow/ice patches. 29) West Huey Spire - S Face (IV 5.8 A2) From a point in the middle of the face, directly below the summit, climb up to a rightward leaning crack system and follow this to the summit ridge. [Mountain #50] FA: Ruedi Hormberger, Hans Ueli Brunner, Paul Muggli, 1975 29a) Middle Huey Spire - SW Buttress (IV, 5.9) * Follow the prominent buttress forming the left side of the South Face. 15 Pitches, 10th pitch is the crux 5.9 offwidth. A variation by a subsequent party avoids the offwidth by means of an aid pitch to the right. FA: Scott Flavelle and Phil Hein, 1980 30) Middle Huey Spire - S Face (IV 5.9 A3) 990' Gain the prominent left-facing corner. Exit right below the roofs at the corner's top and follow cracks up and right. FA: Karl Kosa, Erwin Weilguny, Erich Lackner, 1977 31) Middle Huey Spire - E Ridge (traverse from East Huey) FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 32) East Huey Spire - S Face Start at the western base of the South Face and follow a shelf spiraling around to join the East Ridge. FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 32a) East Huey Spire - "Don't Panic It's Organic" (IV, 5.10+ C1) This route and the next, lie on the East or Northeast Face. Begins up a prominent right facing corner system left of 32b. The name "commemorates the extensive cleaning of vegetation required of us." 10-11 pitches all the way to the summit (the upper pitches of this route are apparently shared or very close to those of the next route, 32b). Fixed rappel anchors, mostly nuts and slings. FA: Josh Gross and Scott Hollander, 2003 32b) East Huey Spire - "Riders on the Storm" (IV 5.11+ C2) * Follows a prominent dihedral system on the NE Face for 11 pitches, ending directly on the summit. Pitches 2-4 offer "Yosemite quality crack climbing." The 6th pitch has not been freed but is expected to be 5.12. The upper part of the route (put up in 2003) offers some easy pitches up grassy ledges, but also two dangerously loose and wet pitches. The final pitch goes up a steep 3-inch crack onto a sparsely protected arete and ends directly at the summit (5.11+). An easier alternative is to finish with the last pitch of 32a. FP(attempted?): Bolts put in by unknown Spaniards(?) ca. 1997 FA: Paul Friberg and Kurt Blair, 1997 FA: Johann Aberger and Evan Stevens, 2003 (route mostly freed and extended to summit) Tara Tower This is the shorter buttress immediately SW of the Lotus Flower Tower, visible left of the classic route 35 in photos of the LFT. It is not a distinct summit. Named by Carl Austrom and Michael Down. 33) SE Face (VI 5.9 A3) * Extraordinarily good rock and 70% free. 3 days including descent. FA: David Loeks, Bill Putnam, 1975 33a) SE Face right (VI 5.10 A3) "Eric Weinstein Memorial Route" Aid up shallow face cracks to a "Hilton ledge" at pitch 11. Five more pitches follow right facing dihedrals (visible from the ground) to the summit, this part of the route appears to coincide with 33. 12 of 16 pitches involve aid. FA: Carl Austrom and Michael Down, 1984 Lotus Flower Tower (LFT) (2560m=8400') This peak needs no introduction. Unarguably the most beautiful buttress in the area. 34) SE Face Left (VI 5.10 A2) Possible bivouac on ledge at end of 5th pitch. Veer right to regular SE Face route at pitch 10. On 11th pitch, go back to left crack and follow it to the top. 20 pitches total. The route showed signs of a previous ascent. [See Iwa to Yuki #143] FA: Masakazu Fujiwara, Atsushi Saito, Eisaku Nozu, 1990 35) SE Face (V 5.10 or 5.9 A1) * First 300': awkward 5.9 fist jamming in sometimes wet corner. Next, a long chimney section with some loose holds leads to the 1400' bivouac terrace. Upper headwall: short lieback pitch to straight in thin crack. Follow this crack for many pitches. Crux is where crack splits a prominent roof (this pitch is significantly harder to free than any other on the route, some call it 5.11-, but it is easily aided). Climbed in 4:26 (base to summit) by Jonathan Copp and Josh Wharton in 2001. Descent: generally, rappel the route. There is now a bolted rappel line right (NE) of the chimneys on pitches 4-10. It leaves the NE end of the bivy ledge and goes all the way to the top of pitch 3. You can also rap from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 1. Take note of rap anchors on the headwall as you go up (for the trip down). FA: James P. McCarthy, Tom Frost, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, 1968 2nd Asc: 1972; 3rd Asc: 1975 FFA: Steve Levin, Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, 1977 36) NE Ridge (traverse from Tathagata) FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 37) SE Face of the East Buttress (V 5.6 A2) This route climbs the East Buttress of the Lotus Flower Tower, which lies right of the regular route 35. The base of the East Buttress sits on an enormous pedestal, the first task is to reach this pedestal. From the base of the SE Face, a diagonal ledge heads up and right, and turns into the top of the pedestal. In the middle this ledge is a slab which is not easy to traverse. Either traverse the slab/ledge or climb directly up the slabs to the pedestal (both probably require a rope). From the pedestal, climb cracks on the SE Face of the buttress to the top of an unnamed pinnacle about 500 feet below and east of the main summit. Although this pinnacle is visible while approaching the LFT, it blends in with the main summit and is difficult to see. The FA party rappelled after reaching this pinnacle (end of the major difficulties). In 2003, a major start variation was added by climbers who did not realize they were close to this line. They started up the slab and then directly up cracks on the left side of the buttress. 6 pitches all free at 5.9/10-, believed to be several hundred feet left of the 1977 route but then merging with it. FA: Jacques Collaer, Renzo Lorenzi, Dr. Francis Warzee, 1977 Start Variation: Kevin Jones, Bryan Palmintier, 2003 Tathagata Tower (2560m=8400') This tower is a minor intermediate high point between The Lotus Flower Tower and Parrot Beak Peak. It has an impressive, broad East face. Tathagata is a Buddhist term for "one who has attained perfection". 38) N Ridge (traverse from Parrot Beak) FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Parrot Beak Peak (2580m=8460') Parrot Beak Peak is very similar in size and aspect to the Lotus Flower Tower, yet it has received virtually no attention. One problem is it's significant summit snow patch, which has a tendency to drain down the right (E) side of the face. 39) S Face (VI 5.9 A3) * In 1973 the cracks funneled melt water from an abnormally large summit snow cap. The 1975 attempt made it 3/4 up, but had to turn back due to a 40' fall and injury. They claimed they "found extremely rotten rock and difficult protection." (perhaps this was intended to discourage attempts by others until they could return, as the FA party in no way agreed!) Follow cracks on the left (W) side of the face to the top of a prominent rounded gendarme, and continue to the summit. FP(attempted): Joe Bridges, Harthon (Sandy) Bill, Galen Rowell, 1973 FP(attempted): David Loeks, Bill Putnam, 1975 FA: Perry Beckham, Scott Flavelle, Dave Lane, Phil Hein, 1980 39a) Pecking Order (V+, 5.11R) *, 2800' Completed in a single day (after an initial attempt up the first 2000 feet). This route lies right of the 1981 route (39). Only two bolts placed. Rap the route. FA: Jonathan Copp and Josh Wharton, Aug 2001 40) W Face FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Mt. Sir James MacBrien (2759m=9052') The highest peak in the area, and often mistakenly referred to as the highest peak in the NW Territories (Mt. Nirvana is 14m higher). The SW face is a good route finding scramble for those in need of an easy day. Be sure to take an ice axe and crampons. The most difficult side of the peak is the East face, an ugly series of rock walls separated by slashing diagonal ice or snow couloirs. Sir James MacBrien (1878-1938) was a distinguished soldier and commissioner of the RCMP, 1931-8. 41) SW face (3rd class?) Follow snow ramps leading diagonally left up the SW Face to join the West Ridge, which can be followed (passing a tricky notch) to the summit. Alternatively, some parties have found it easier to move back right and up the SW face all the way to the summit. FA: Arnold Wexler party, 1955 42) SE Arete (IV 5.9) Scramble 2-3000' to narrow 1200' arete. Crux pitch 3: 100' diagonal 2" crack. 10 pitches total. Descend W side, no rappels needed. Described by 2nd ascent party as "spectacularly situated with some superb crack and slab climbing." A 1996 party agreed with the view but reported the rock wasn't so perfect. FA: James P. McCarthy, Galen Rowell, 1972 Ziegeberg (2410m=7910') An easy granite peak immediately NW of Sir James MacBrien. Cassiope Col, between these peaks offers access to the north side of the peaks of the third cirque (Phenocryst through Sir James MacBrien). Ice axe and crampons necessary. 43) E Ridge (traverse) FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Trident Peak (2410m=7910') A reddish slate peak between Ziegeberg and Crescent Peak. 44) S Ridge FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 Crescent Peak (2484m=8150') An easy scramble with careful route finding from Fairy Meadows. The South side of the peak is the most difficult. 45) SW Couloir FA: Bill Buckingham party, 1960 46) S Ridge Climb toward a triangular red spot on the ridge. Ascend both the the first (350') and second (150') towers on their sides. FA: Alain Grignard, Renzo Lorenzi, 1977 Unicorn Peak (2140m=7020') Prominent spire (actually a ridge viewed head on) visible left (SW) of the summit of Crescent Peak when viewed from the Cirque entrance. It's an easy scramble from the top of Unicorn to the top of Crescent Peak. 47) S Ridge (III, 5.9) Follow easy ridge crest steepening to final crux pitch. Some rotten rock and an old piton (at the crux) were encountered in the first recorded ascent. Descent: scramble down gully and face left (W) of ascent route. This route has seen many repeats, probably because it has relatively low commitment and great views. FP(attempted?): L. Thaxton party (1979). FA(recorded): George Bell, Don Mank (1988). If you have any comments/questions/additions about this guide, contact: George Bell 5040 Ingersoll Pl. Boulder, CO 80303 (303) 473-9927 gibell@comcast.net </PLAINTEXT> <!-- following code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE --> <!-- preceding code added by server. PLEASE REMOVE --><!-- text below generated by server. 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