The historic and picturesque church at the Alamo in the day...	...and at night.

Our first venture away from Austin was to nearby San Antonio and the most historic site in Texas, the Shrine of Texas Liberty, the Alamo. Originally named Mission San Antonio de Valero, the Alamo was the northernmost of a string of five missions built by the Catholic Church in the early 18th century to convert native Americans and establish Spanish presence. When General Antonio López de Santa Ana took over the government of Mexico and suspended the constitution, Texans living under that government, railed then rebelled. (Their primary spokesman, Stephen Austin). By this time, the Alamo was no longer serving as a mission but as a military station. In December 1835, Texan and Tejano volunteers forced Mexican troops quartered in the Alamo to surrender. Two months later a vengeful Santa Ana arrived to reclaim the San Antonio.

Alamo defenders were initially under an uneasy joint leadership of William Travis (a young, schooled military leader) and the renowned knife fighter and heavy drinker Jim Bowie (leader of the volunteers), until the latter fell ill and became incapacitated. The most famous of the defenders was frontiersman and marksman David Crockett, who went west after losing his congressional seat. The Alamo's defenders held out for 13 days, beating back repeated assaults.

Before daybreak on March 6, 1836 (3/6/36), thousands of Mexicans stormed the Alamo. Perhaps as many as 700 Mexicans died in the siege and conquest, nearly all 200 defenders were killed. Those that did not die in battle were executed (a fate that may have befallen Crockett). Contrary to popular belief, there were Texan survivors of the battle. Fifteen people, mostly women and children family members of men defending the Alamo but also three men, were allowed to live. Of the men, one was elderly, another was a slave, and the third was a Mexican who convinced the conquerors that he was a prisoner of the Alamo defenders.

Santa Ana's victory was short-lived. Within a few months his entire army was captured by Texans under the command of Sam Houston in San Jancinto, near present day Houston. A disguised Santa Ana was captured trying to escape. He was forced to sign a treaty ending hostilities and recognizing Texas as an independent republic.

Not much remains of the original structure of the Alamo. The church,

A wall of the original long barracks, the last line of defense on March 6, 1836.

which has been roofed and which provides the scenic Alamo photos, and parts of the original long barracks--the last line of defense, a building in which 200 Texan and Mexican bodies were found--are still standing. Even these structures were almost lost, a soldier who was to blow up the powder magazine stored in the church was felled before he accomplished this task. Modern buildings, streets, and a plaza are located where the Alamo's exterior walls and all other structures once stood. But the site is beautiful as well as historic. A new wall and gardens have been built on the grounds of the Alamo. The church and long barracks have become museums as well as shrines. They contain artifacts and letters from the siege and battle as well as items that belonged to participants in the battle.

There is a short film in the long barracks that describes the battle, and a fuller IMAX version entitled, Alamo...The Price of Freedom (the 16th movie about the Alamo) a block away from the site. We saw this well-done 1988 movie before visiting the Alamo.

After touring the Alamo, we went on a short drive to visit two other 18th century missions (recall the "Alamo" was one of five missions). We visited Mission Concepcion and Mission San José but for time reasons, didn't continue on to Mission San Juan and Mission Espada. Each of these four missions have an active parish church.

Our first stop was Mission Concepcion

The beautiful and active church of Mission Concepcion.

(full name: Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Acuña). Walls no longer enclose Mission Concepcion, but its beautiful central buildings still stand, looking much as they did 250 years ago. Its massive twin towered church is reputedly the oldest unrestored stone church in the country. We wandered the rooms and church, listening to the organist practice for a wedding that afternoon. On the walls of a small prayer room towards near the entrance of the church, we were appalled to see graffiti from probably hundreds of people. Tributes to human idiocy.

Mission San José has benefited from significant restoration efforts. We were able to tour the Indian Quarters along the outer wall, the Convento, the Granary (containing a model of the Mission), and the Grist Mill. We did not enter the church as there was a wedding taking place. The beautiful bride was of Mexican descent.

The church and central buildings of Mission San José.	The more contemporary facade of the church.

As dusk approached, we returned to the Alamo area and strolled the Riverwalk (Paseo del Rio). The charming tree-lined footpaths follow landscaped riverbanks of the San Antonio River and are bordered by restaurants, nightspots, and shops.

The scenic Riverwalk.

The lighting was a little dim and in the past the place was a haven for muggers, but we felt safe even in the dark as the paths were crowded and businesses were open. Many people traverse the river in small tour boats that resemble barges. Walking seemed much more fun. We walked to La Villita, a restoration of San Antonio's earliest residential settlement. Craft shops line its cobblestone walkways but most of them seemed closed so we didn't browse much. We passed a bride and groom holding hands going to or coming from their wedding. The groom's clothing caught our eyes. He was wearing a tux top (tails) along with blue jeans, cowboy boots, and a cowboy hat. We averted our eyes from the bride who appeared to have suffered dreadfully at the wrong end of an ugly stick.

Another wedding was taking place on the Riverwalk itself, but we didn't venture too closely. It looked like a lovely, intimate gathering so we kept our distance.

We had a wonderful Mexican dinner at Casa Rio along the Riverwalk. We ate indoors to avoid a 30 minute wait for a table. After dinner, we got a couple of fruit smoothies for desert at the nearby mall and again returned to the Alamo to see it in its evening glory. Back to Austin after an enchanting day in San Antonio.

© 2000 frantzml@juno.com