| An ideal marked Dutch |
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| Cheeks You want these to be nice and rounded, free from dragging into the mouth or whisker bed. Good Cheeks are what form a good Blaze. If the cheeks are high, they’re going to make your blaze wide, whereas if the cheeks go very low and are hooked they’ll give you a narrow Blaze. |
| Blaze This is the triangle on the face. It should be medium wide and wedge shaped. It should cover the nose and the whisker bed, going up to the top of the head, to the ear base. |
| Neck This is also known as the Wedge. It’s on the back of the rabbit’s neck, behind the ears, it’s to be wide and wedge shaped, clean from drags and should not run up onto the ears. |
| Saddle This is the line on the back where the white fur meets the colored fur. You want it to be straight. It should not be set too far back, or too far forward. |
| Undercut This is a continuation of the saddle to the underside of the rabbit. Again you want this to be straight. It should not drag onto the elbows, which is called tied elbow and is a disqualification. |
| Stops These are the white boots on the rabbit’s back paws. You want them to be straight and even with each other, covering 1/3 of the rabbit’s foot. If the white goes past the hock joint, this is a disqualification. If the color goes into the toes, this is called split stops and is a disqualification. |
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| Hairline This is a small narrow line connecting the Blaze and Neck together, making the Cheeks separate. Not all rabbits have this. It’s not a disqualification if the rabbit doesn’t have it. The standard says that it’s very desirable by judges, as it makes the cheeks a lot more rounder. |
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| Background courtesy of Pam Nock Copyright © 2003 Double Dutch Rabbitry |
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