Which brings me neatly to two good tips: 1) Go to Gozo - it's a must. Have a good explore. In many ways it's nicer and greener than Malta, although I was saddened to see the Kaccatun selling boxed finches at the side of the road quite openly. and 2) go on an organised trip the first time you go there. We didn't and ended up relying on the local bus system (handily painted grey to remind you that you aren't on the mainland). The buses tend to run first thing in the morning to take the kids to school, and about tea time to take them back home again and literally only a couple of times in between (judging by the photo below, the intervening time is spent by some drivers to polish their vehicles to keep them looking immaculate). So either go on a trip or plan your day REALLY WELL.
The villages of Gozo have tried, in the past, to out-do one another in the "who's got the biggest church?" stakes, so the countryside is dotted with the collosal domes and edifices of churches that would probably take the entire island's pouplation inside them several times over. These churches tower over and dwarf the smattering of surrounding houses.
