To me it is Rio's cliffs which, together with the beaches, makes it the most beautiful city I have seen.
I'm not sure, but I think a lot of the cliffs don't get climbed on a lot. If you're too close to a favela (poor area) you may encounter someone with a gun offering to relieve you of your material burdens!
During my short stay I didn't, personally, see any evidence of Rio's famous crime rate. It is a dangerous place but if you avoid certain areas and modify a few behaviours that would be normal in Australia, things aren't too bad. The Urca area is pretty relaxed.
"Urubu" is an accessible mega-boulder with a range of quality routes. Here Pablo is warming up on the easier side (there's a heinous looking Wolfgang Gullich route, among others, on the other side).
Finding these climbers here on Friday afternoon was a great stroke of luck for me. They were happy to climb with me and Grabriela and Fernando even spoke good English (this was lucky as my Portugese is pathetic).
Gabriela gave me a contact number for Ferando (a different one) who took me up one of the classics of the region, Via dos Italianos. Three 50 m pitches of excellent climbing (about grade 19) take you about half way up the front face of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf), below the 'phrique cables. From there another route (about the same length) leads to the telepherique station.
I was a bit shocked after we'd got to the first belay where I realised we only had one rope and six quickdraws between the three of us! I was regretting that I hadn't brought more gear. Brazilians don't carry as much gear as I am used to seeing people with. Partly it's because it is more expensive for them and partly because no one leaves gear at the bottom of climbs.
In the picture above Fernando's friend Ricardo is seconding (tied in half way) while Fernando waits at the belay. We climbed it in half-length pitches.
Photo right: Ferando, higher up the climb.
When we got to the top of Italianos (still only half way to the 'phrique station) fernando predicted rain; "in about 10 minutes". Sure enough, within the prescribed time it was pissing down. No worries though! From this point upwards a series of old steel cables (remanants from the 'phrique I guess) led to the summit. A bit of speedy, wet Batmanning and we were at the top (and could take the 'phrique down free!).
Sunday. The fine weather returned so back to the Urca area, this time to climb on Morro da Babilonia (looming behind, as Beto, Fernando and Fernanda consult the guide book).
Babilonia is about 200 m tall and sits behind the telepherique for Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf) so it's accessible but safe from robbers.
Gabriela Saliba and Fernanda Mourão (not the Fernanda pictured above) climbed a route called IV Centenario which is parallel to the one Beto and I were climbing.
Meanwhile, Beto and I climbed Vilma Arnauld (about grade 19); four long pitches, all at the grade and of excellent quality. What more could you ask for?
Gabriela also took these photos of me belaying (near photo) and at one of the rap stations during the descent (far photo).
Photos: Gabriela Saliba
In the afternoon we moved around to the shady side of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf)
Estela is starting to second her pitch. The climbs here appeared as mown pathways up a vegie wall; looks odd but the climbs are nice (and clean!).
Despite the "busy" nature of this climb a relaxed, easy-going atmosphere prevailed. You have to love that about the Brazilians.
None the less, Fernanda and I opted for the line to the right, which was free (see next photo).
Note Estela's pack, and those left clipped to a bolt half way up the pitch. The Rio climbers don't leave gear where it can be stolen.
Fernanda Mourão completes the second (and final) pitch of Ursinho de Pelúcia (about grade 20).
As the sun departed we all packed up and wandered back to the cafe for a beer or two.
I still had some time to climb on Monday morning before the plane left. I bumped into Jorge and Liana (pictured) at the 'phrique carpark. In what I now presume is typical brazilian fashion they didn't mind having a gringo tag along.
I had to abseil off from this point and commence the long journey home.
Climbing is a jouney and, for me, the people you meet along the way determine what memories you take home more than the "things" you do. I was impressed with the Brazilians I met: they seem to acheive their objectives without losing touch of the essential existentialism of the process. Most of all I was thankful of the patience they had with a gringo who couldn't say anything intelligent in their language.
On the way back the plane stops at Easter Island; may as well see how the moai are feeling ...
