Frenchman's mystique owes as much to the walk in as it does to the climbing. Here Jack Tighe struggles with the "Sodden Loddens" on the walk between the road and Vera hut.
The Loddens are a chore. After Lake Vera however the track climbs to the saddle below Sharlands Peak (pictured behind Jack), views open up and the craggy summits reveal themselves.
From the road it takes about six hours to reach Lake Vera then another four to reach Tahune Hut (a good base for climbing). You can do it a lot faster on the way home of course as there's a downhill advantage (I think we took 6½ hours including a relatively long lunch stop).
From Tahune Hut it takes about 40 minutes to get to the base of the largest cliffs. Sneakers seem to do the job and will save weight on the climb.
This is the saddle above Tahune hut. It is on the route to the base of the wall.
Photo: Jack Tighe.
We did The Sydney Route on our first day. Reputed to be a three star classic although it does have a few pretty poxy pitches.
This is about pitch four. Jack is in his element, mountain crags. He scuttled up the flared off-width chimney thing lake a rat up a drain pipe. I stuggled to maintain any style seconding (I think we might have been slightly off-route here).
Higher up there's a great pitch which Jack is just finishing seconding.
From here to the summit you get into a big wide gully. Two easey pitches lead to the summit of Frenchmans Cap.
Photo: Jack Tighe.
On day two we went and did another route which had been recommened, Chimes of Freedom. Three pleasant pitches up a corner (grades 8, 16, 10) lead to a large ledge where this pitch, the psychological crux, begins.
Although steep, there's plenty of holds giving a grade of no more than 15. The pro is very spaced though; I'm sure a fall at the wrong point would leave the leader a gurgling bloody mess. Where I am pictured the rock was wet in places which added to my anxiety.
Photo: Jack Tighe.
Pitch 5 (the one after the pychological crux) is technically harder; grade 17 breifly, then the easey ground pictured.
One more easey pitch leads to the top of the climb (six in all).
We would have liked to do some more climbs but the weather wasn't with us. All in all it was a fun trip. Quite an adventure. I always enjoy Jack's company too.
I've never been back though (probably eight years now) and doubt I ever will. After climbing on big cliffs in France, Norway, Switzland and North America it just doesn't measure up (not for me anyway). Maybe when there's a road in to the base I'll go back!
Photo: Jack Tighe.
This is what we found after the long walk out.
Jack's old Datsun 1200 extensively vandalised; boot levered open, all five wheels gone, most windows smashed, HT leads gone and (most troublesome of all) the carby gone. A purely malicious act considering it all could have been picked up cheaply from wreckers.
Jack took it pretty well. The saddest thing is that it indicates what kind of people are lurking in Tasmania. There is a lot of resentment, hatered and paranoia in country areas. Often the ill-feeling is directed against "greenies"; these being anyone they don't know. It is no surprise to me that people like Bryant or the Beumariss Beach Killer surface from time to time.
Be warned.
